subtle_driver

has anyone succesfully Removed the sock or filter in the tank? I could not see it when it was out. a good idea or bad idea? my sock is clogged, i am using a fuel filter before the pump and its just getting a trickle and starving the pump. i shot air backward into the tank through the pickup and it worked fine for a little while, but then after 30 min it choked the pump again. this is an efi setup. thanks!

i've been searching but cant find much info. just a guy who said he did it, but never posted pics or info like he said he would. i guess i will just have to do this and hope for the best. does anyone know the stock thread type on the drain plug for the 240z? i will get a 90 degree fitting as a backup incase this 240sx tank doesn't work. I have a race this weekend, so the car has to run. I only have 2 nites to fix the fuel starving problem.

ya i know its different, i think im gonna have to use a hammer or cut something, i'm gonna keep searching.

I'm installing a 240sx tank in a 240z because im running efi setup and the stock tank is rusted and i have a 240sx tank. if anyone has done this before please chime in. i need some advice because i am going to attempt it tomorrow night after work. does it just drop in, or do i need to cut or hammer anything? how about the filler neck? thank you so much!

ok, i guess this is not a practical idea for a tight buget then! thanks! ya i spend a few hours going through posts. but i just wanted to make sure, sometimes people come up with new ideas. thanks again!

if i had a 280zx 3.9 diff, and say a r200 vlsd short nose diff from a 300zx or q45; can i swap the vlsd section into the long nose somehow? can i still use the stock 4 bolt 280zx output shafts? has anyone done this before? What im trying to do for my 240z is end up with a drivetrain that will handle 300-400hp with easily obtained parts from the junkyard! any ideas? i don't have much money to work with! thanks!

doesn't the sr have those lifters? I think of an sr, as a destroked ka24e with 1 extra exhaust valve, with weaker aluminum block. ok im just pushing buttons.

arn't xflow heads like 40 year old plus technology? like back in 1969 nissan was using a xflow head for the fairladyz, but many racers didn't like them because they didn't put out enough power compared to the sohc. and tell me how much tq this 200hp honda motor has! is it 150ish?

I agree! well, its good to hear the stock bottem end on the l28 is strong! Tuning is the key to success! Looks like i'm gonna look forward to plopping one in my z. BTW, anyone have one for sale in SD? pm me! haha

my ka has been reliable for 2 years, STOCK BLOCK! My KA see's 7k multiple times every day. I'm over 300 hp. But mine is tuned with the stock ecu/chipped. anyways....

I would like to know what power levels the l28 will hold up to. I know the ka will hold up to 400ish hp. and I've had my ka24de at 320hp daily driver for 2 years. 20k miles... still 175psi compression at 180k miles on block. those ka24de motors are strong( talking about the japan built ones that come in the 240sx). they have oil sprayers, and block girdles. i haven;t seen that on any L-series... I'm interested cause i am planning on a l28 swap in the future for 240z! I know someone here is getting 321hp and has over 250k miles on the stock l28!!!

so you gotta got to a machinist and bore out the flywheel of an l28 and make a custom dust shield. so the clutch would be a stock L series along with the pressure plate and throwout bearing? has anyone tried a ka flywheel on a L series?

i;m going with a ka and ka trans. most likely.... how did you adapt the l28 5-speed to the ka?

what is the link to you're build thread? i definitly want to see pics! btw, can the tranny be pulled easy? like the stock l24(i can change the clutch in under an hour), or is it a slight pain like the s13? (s13 is too close to the firewall and the tranny has to be clocked and/or the engine mounts loosened and subframe loosened, i hate that)

wow this is very valuable info! THANK YOU! ya i didn't type that in the search.... i typed in sr, and ka, and engine swap, and pics and alot of other things. but that didn't show up! So what is easier to work with? using the stock crossmember location or going back, behind the stock crossmember?

hmmm, removable, home made, rear engine x-member..... another thing to think about. does anyone know where i can find some good pics of the sr/ka crossmembers in the car?

Wow thanks for the info! will i need to make a "u" shape or does the engine fit with a strait accross cross member. and the tubing, you are talking about a rectangle shape, or oval shape? I am definitly looking forward to seeing your progress!!! Does anyone have pictures of their tranny and engine mounts in the car from several different angles? that threaded mount thing is baddass! That tecnique will come in handy! Thanks for all the help! This is encouraging! I was getting bummed cause i couldn't find much info on how to make my own engine crossmeber and mounts! thanks!

I'm just wondering if anyone has done this. I am planning on doing a ka24de or sr20det swap into my 72 z. and i want to do it myself cause i love to make my own parts and setups. I have a welder and some steel plates. What is the proper way to do this? How do i mock up the positions?! anyone have detailed pics that are up close? What kind of engine mounts can i use? and what kind of steel should i use? I searched for hours, and didn't come up with acual dimensions, or "you do it this way" first hand, factual info that i need. Although i did see a few threads, with pics, but nothing i can really use to start fabbing my own. I would buy a cradle/mount from the two leading companies that are referanced here, but this time i'm planning on doing this myself. Don't try to talk me out of it:icon44:!!! as soon as i can do this succesfully i will have to find info on how to wire it up and stuff. but for now, i just need to get it installed. THANK YOU!!!!

haha, ya i said .8 cubic inches. i must have been cracking smoke. lol!

Ya, i know you're pulling my strings.. BTW, the stock mass air flow sensor from a single cam ka24e is the same one used with the sr turbo engines. also... the stock ka ecu is not thrown away. if anyone has one that they want to throw away i will pay it to be shipped to me! install a daughter board and you can tune it to use anything you want! only a fool would buy stand alone when this can be had at under $300(if i had somone else do it). BTW, ! paid less than $100 to oil my turbo with ss feed line, and welded a return bung on my pan with silicone drain back tube. The stock t25 turbo that comes stock for the sr motor is way too small and chokes the KA, so a larger turbo is needed. A turbo that flows enough to make well over 500hp $400... a fully rebuilt holset hy35w with 10cm exhaust housing. spools at 2,500rpm. and hits hard! or a custom built t3/t4 garrett with 360 degree bearings from a turbo shop for under $600. Plumbing for front mount... Less than $200. and a cheap FMIC... a walbro fuel pump injectors... basicly for around $1500 give or take depending on what you go with... I have a setup that cost me this much. I'm making over 320hp with a stock block with 180k miles. and daily driving it for 2 years and autocrossing and drag racing. its got over 50 passes and 5 autox races with this setup on a stock ka. I guess the SR can "Rev like mad" but i prefer making more power than an sr with a ka. if you don't do it right, it won;t work. stick to sr's cause they are bolt on turbo. don't ghetto rig any ka's anymore please. install of the KA approved turbo back in the day. I haven't been beat by a sr with bolt ons' and no-one wants to race me with their sr. even tho it redlines a couple hundred rpm's higher, and i spent less money. i wonder why? Please visit KA-t.org educate yourself about ka-t power. not a throw away motor! go ahead and call it a "Truck motor", I know i used to! I used to make fun of them truck ka motors.

they are annoying cause most peeps are pulling out the ka's to install a smaller engine that costs a lot more, and call the ka a "truck" motor. well i take the truck motor, mount a truck turbo from a cummins, and tune it, then destry the sr guy with his old crappy motor. BTW a ka will make more power than an sr with equal mods. how much tq./hp does an sr make if you take away the small turbo? i dunno, i just see too many f&f crowd peepz ask me if my car has a sr. i say no. then they go,"oh" and leave in dissapointment. hahaha!

have you ridden in a ka-t with a larger turbo (that suits the bigger displacement, not a tiny t28)? they rev to 7k rpms and with a good tune and a cam swap it revs higher than a sr. and safely, it has better valve train.

ka24de with a custom tuned ecu from e-mance.com will get you 300-350 hp from a stock block, 400 with e85. and a t3/t4 turbo. just need injectors/wg/re-curculation valve/walbero pump/intecooler etc.... or build a ka block, get over 700 hp. some 1200hp examples exist but are not practical for street. 500-700 is the most i would go for street. my best friend has a s14 with a ka24de and has never been beat by a sr20 swapped car. why? because sr's are ghey and small and aluminum and have a horrible valve train. thats my opinion. so many s13/14 guys are swapping in sr20's, its funny, kinda like having a ss Chevy with a 350 and swapping in a smaller engine. i have a ka24de turboed with a holset. its pushing 320hp ish, at 14-15 psi. and i daily drive it for 2 years. the motor has 180k on it. and has 175psi accross the board. its all in the tune!!! thats the secret! get a tuned ecu and save yourself a headache, you don't need a fpr or fmu to get it dialed in. any setup is possible with stock ecu, just send it in to get chipped for anything you want. the stock tranny for the ka24de is the same for all the years of the 240sx. they are pretty strong, basicly the same as a rb20. they can handle 300ish hp for a long time. but you can get a kit to install a z32 tt tranny and use an rb flywheel and 350z clutch. that will handle 500 or more hp. go to ka-t.org

why would you want 2 less cylinders and .8 less cubic inches? if the l28 has 8.5 to 1 compression you can turbo it and with injectors a z32 maf and modify a stock ecu www.e-mance.com it can be done. but its better just to get a turbo l28 and drop it in. i dunno man, sr20's are small and annoying. a big inline 6 is rad and sounds cool. and you can bolt on parts, and find parts easy.

block on fwd engine does not have a cradle, has engine mount location in front... basicly too many differences. fwd is for fwd, rwd is for rwd.