subtle_driver

I got a picture of that somewhere, when i get home i'll upload it. very easy. just used a ka24e t-stat outlet, alternator brakets and find a three rib belt that fits, i think off a lebarron or something. i'll get back with you with the number.

LOL! corner balanced? how much does that cost? i will do it if it makes the car faster!

I'm not at liberty to give out specs right now as the car is not dyno'ed and we are in the middle of a racing event. I'll give them out in a few months. lol! maybe in 2 weeks... engine management is done with ecu re-programming. the oil will get sucked into the turbo if the oil is too thin, if the engine has accessive blowby, or if the oil is over-filled. but oil is good, it keeps the moving parts in the intercooler lubed, lol! just kidding. Ya, serously, the breather setup does not suck enough oil to be of any concern. its better located before the turbo so when boost kicks in, it doesn't blow out the seals from a boosed crankcase! haha! Bottom line, we didn't have room in our buget to add a oil catch can. i don't have any video's yet, but I'll add more pics with requests.

what you had was most likely "timing chain rattle." the upper timing chain guides are deleted and the noise goes away. The fwd SR20 in Sentras at least have a simular problem. or maybe the oil was low or the engine had internal damage from lack of maintainece. my stock ka has been revving to 7,800 rpms for years without problems. the ka24de has the same type of valve train as the RB26. the sr has rockers, like the older L-series and Single cam ka, they tend to pop off when revving. Think of the KA24de as a 4-cylinder stroker version of the RB26. Or the RB26 is a 6 cylinder-destroked ka24de? lol

I made this setup about 5-6 months ago, but decided to post today for others to see that it is possible and practical to swap in a ka24de from a 240sx for cheap! Current setup: 240sx KA24de engine and transmission, custom made tranny and engine crossmember from scrap metal laying around in my dad's yard. and some cheap rubber engine mounts from Mckinney motorsports. Running on E85. The biggest problem we ran into was the car was so much ligher up front after the swap, we had to cut off coils from the front springs to make it level again. The engine sits a couple inches from the firewall, and the transmission shifter is in the perfect location. The car has more go power, n/a than many 240z's with a stock l28 with su carbs or efi. but there are too many variables for this statement to be fact, and this is just my opinion. Here are some pictures of my team's 240z that was built for with a buget of $1500. Took alot of countless hours of labor and custom fabrication/elbow grease to get it cleaned up and took alot of searching to find those good deals. Enjoy, and feel free to ask questions leave comments and ask for more pictures! Thank you!

hmmm, were you able to compare the increase from the stock length? for example your street car was say 0 degree then you added 1/2" to the lca, it made it -1 degree? did you compare it or did you just do the mod to the lca then check alignment? thanks for the info btw!

How much camber did you get out of that mod?

Traction? What is that?

the car is lowered about 1.5 inches. and it has a tweak i think. ya, i slotted the towers and the insulator hit the tower and i ran out of room. if i had coil-overs then it would be different.... hmmm...

Has anyone done this? I have .5 negitive camber up front on my 240z and I already slotted the towers. I was thinking of cutting the LCA and extending it to get more negitive camber. I don't have much of a buget to spend on this modification. I have some metal lying around and a welder and just want more camber without spending extra money. I would prefer adjustable, but I am not in the situation and have decided to take this route. I'm also open to the idea of moving the mouning hole more outwards, but only if i can gain at least 2 degrees of negitive camber change. Installing a longer LCA is common with the 240sx crowd. Many s13 owners install the s14 LCA (longer) to gain extra camber. I am at this mindset. MY question would be, how much longer than stock must the front LCA be to gain approx 2degrees of negitive camber? Thanks!

are you still sticking with the deal, or you gonna keep 'em? lmk! thanks! Still on the lookout for wheels! thanks!!

thank you! I'll check my email!

i have everything. lkm

wow what a deal! I can drive down there with my jeep. the rims are not bent or jacked up are they? can you send me some pics, subtle_driver@yahoo.com thanks! maybe i can have the tires dismounted locally? is there a tire shop near where you live? i would rather not take too many trips, a long drive with my jeep is not exciting. I would rather take my z but there is no room for rims and my arse and back will hurt like heck with the aluminum seat! hehe! Wow, thank you for the offer! This will help out our buget so much we can put some money aside into the engine or suspension! That reminds me, do you happen to have some used tokico strut inserts? i bought some used KYb's with lowering springs but they are blown and bottoming, and the springs were not a matching set:(.... we will post a full writup after the event starts [one month]! gotta be on the dl untill then.

I wish i could go with those wheels, but even tho they are cheap, still not cheap enough for our limited buget. and i may have left out that we can only run 200 treadwear. so finding something in 15" with that rating is limited to about 225 max. so i think i need something 16" or bigger. thank you for your suggestion! all suggestions are appriciated!

How much do you want? I can only offer about $100 max for a set of wheels. as it is part of our $1000 Buget. Where is palm desert? im in East county San diego.

Its stock 4 lug, i don't care about the looks, just as long as its cheap and not bent up. I only need 2 and I am using street tires not slicks. my fenders are flared! thanks! I'm also looking for some turbo 280zx rims to buy cheap or to borrow for a few months untill the racing season is over! this is for a San Diego Grassroots Motorsports buget racing event! Any and all help is appriciated, and i can run sponsor stickers if you help me out! thanks! subtle_driver@yahoo.com

just have one 1/2 month till deadline. maybe i'll leak some info here when i have some free time. if you want to see it, we are testing at qualcomm stadium san diego tomorrow between 11am and 5pm, just look for the rustbucket 240z that sounds like a 240sx

i don't want to post pix till after completion. gotta keep this project under wraps. we already have copy cats from some leaking information.

im taking it to autox tomorrow that will tell all.

well i swapped the springs despite my common sense. and it raised the nose another inch. so i swapped back, and cut the front coils. now it sits level and has equal travel.

thanks man! i was just confused as to why the thicker springs seem to be less stiff. and i thought maybe the engine being different would make the nose light.

the tank was way too big and i didn't have time to fabricate or cut the body to make it fit. I ended up cutting the stock tank open and cleaning all the old fuel deposits that were clogging the inlet, and welding it back together. works great now! no starvation.

Hi, i have a 240z that i swapped a ka24de. I installed some used Blue lowering springs but have no idea what kind they are. I installed the ones with the thicker windings on the rear, and the thinner coils on the front. Is this correct? both springs look the same and have the same hight so i just assumed this was the right way. Am I being retarded? Can you help me identify these blue springs? Someone told me they might be suspension techniques. Second, The ride hight is about 3-1/4" inches in front, and 1-1/2" inches measuring wheel well gap from tire to the fender well. Is this because of the lighter weight of the ka24de, or is this because i installed the springs backwards? thank you! the ka is mounted towards the firewall. and the body is stripped. thanks for your help!

i cut off the top of the tank and found there is alot of sediment from old gas. so i scraped and brushed it off. then i cleaned out the line. then welded the top back on. works perfect! There was no sock! thank you!