Matt Cramer

If you are using JS10 to drive the BIP373, don't use the 330 ohm resistor at all. It is only when you are driving it with the LED circuit.

Does it retract on the other times you turn the ignition on?

The solder we use is a slightly different blend, 63/37 instead of 60/40, and it's pretty easy to use. I don't recommend the silver or lead free versions; they're often harder to work with. Built my first Megasquirt at home with a Radio Shack iron, but we use 60 watt Wellers at the shop and there's quite a difference.

Try increasing the TPSdot threshold from 3 to between 25 and 50 and see if that helps. Looks like it's way too low at the moment.

That works too. You'd either need a BIP373 or external ignition module. Or you could see if it will drive the stock power transistor. Try the same settings for the BIP373 and see if they work; I'd be interested in seeing the results.

You're welcome. Let me know if you have any questions. Our MSPNP manual has a couple of tips we wrote on tuning the MS1/Extra boost control - click here and scroll down a ways.

After connecting the injectors to 12 volt power, on the negative side you'd wire half of them to the INJ1 wire and the other half to the INJ2 wire. Some people put the odd numbered injectors on bank 1 and evens on bank 2, others pair them 1-2-3 / 4-5-6, but I'm not sure there's a real difference either way.

We've used MS1/Extra for boost control on several of our project cars. The best way to make it work is to force it into open loop, where it runs pretty well. We never did get the closed loop mode working. GM boost control solenoids, and the EBC solenoid we now sell, work well at 19.5 Hz. As for MS2/Extra boost control, we have tested open loop mode on the bench and found it's pretty straightforward to implement, but we have not yet tested it on a car.

They're set up for 5 volt output (no Q16) unless special ordered with direct coil control output. You may need to put in a BIP373.

You'll want to check; some Megasquirts are set up for 5 volt output and have that slot empty.

What's in the Q16 slot on your Megasquirt?

Actually, the 3000GT setup seems to be at least as hot as the LSx coils. The 3000GT and 4G63 coil packs are capable of lighting off 35 psi of boost without any trouble.

Not quite. 5714 RPM = 95.23 rps = 285.7 sparks / sec. Next step is to flip that over: 285.7 sparks / sec -> 0.0035 sec / spark. So at that point a stock ignition system is going to start cutting dwell (actually, since the coil needs some time in between sparks, it would have been cutting dwell a while ago). But a coil on plug setup would still be charging the coils for 3.5 msec. As the RPM goes up, the dwell will overlap, with one coil starting its charging before the previous one has discharged. This will still result in uneven current flow, but the current won't stop like on a distributor.

Sony - because Caucasians are too damn tall!

I suspect that someone shorted a 12 volt connection to the VREF wire; this is the most common cause of dead D19s.

No voltage on the relay board almost always means a blown fuse.

Yes. With MS2 you can use the Spare Output Ports section and configure it to behave like a normal fan control. See here for details: http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/spare.htm

Alpha-N may be worth considering, but on engines that don't have a particularly wild cam you can often run speed density and ITBs just fine. It may just need a bit more acceleration enrichment (which probably should be TPS based).

The missing pull-up on the V2.2 is an oversight - I'll see if I can get this fixed soon.

What sort of pull up are you using on the low res side?

You'd use the output mods, but not the input mods, found on this page: http://www.msextra.com/ms2extra/MS2-Extra_LS1.htm LSx coils can't be used with EDIS, at least not without making some sort of weird signal converter box or cutting the coils open and bypassing their driver module.

Yes, you'll need a 5 volt output for the coil. What Megasquirt version do you have?

I don't have any tables to post, but I would like to add that an advance curve that works with a distributor will work with EDIS too as long as both are set up correctly.

You can plumb the block up either way. However, I strongly recommend upgrading to the 2.8xx code series, as these fixed a couple of bugs in the stepper IAC control routine.

Yes, they have built in ignitors that take a 5 volt signal. They may have a hotter spark than the EDIS coils, but EDIS is surprisingly hot too so if you aren't blowing out the spark or hitting the EDIS rev limiter you may not gain any power. You will, however, get the ability to do a spark cut rev limiter and certain other tricks that EDIS can't do.