Drax240z

I'd be you...

I have a GM HEI module on my 260z with a 76 dizzy... should work just fine on a NA 280zx as well. There are theories that it doesn't provide quite a good spark signal at high RPM however... I've yet to see this proven or disproven.

Not sure if 70's were an oddball, but in my 72, 73, and 74 the clutch resevoir was under the drivers side inspection panel, next to the windshield washer fluid resevoir and the brake master cylinder resevoirs.

Oh my, sorry to bring up something so terrible! I knew that hatch was heavy, but... 55lbs. 2 shocks. Seperating under its own weight. Scary!

Scottie, did you ever weigh the old one before chucking it?

Scottie, aren't lower (numerically) gearsets available for your diff? I thought someone (Mike kz?) posted that there was a 2.83:1 available at some point.

Unless it is half lead... eh Scottie?

Well they are totally different, the 260z and later had an independant reverse light, and the rear sheet metal is different to accomodate that. (both the unibody and the fascia panels around the lights) So it won't be a bolt in... However, I think it would be a great swap with a bit of cutting and welding involved, as the later tail lights look much better in my opinion! (Hmm, I might have to do this swap at some point too)

Jersey, if you have a 3.54 sitting on your garage floor, by all means run that. I would suspect that as you get faster the LSD option will help you get out of the hole, but I'd certainly try out the 3.54 first and do some direct comparisons. (and share them please) As for how much you'll pick up, I have no idea. I'd suspect it will be a significant amount with a good launch though.

I did my usual Canada day thing and wandered off into the woods hiking for half the day. Got caught in a pretty good downpour however. Stumbled across something fitting though.

To all you canuckleheads out there. Have a brewsky, wear a toque, sit on a chesterfield and eat some poutine! http://www.iam.ca/toast/molson_final.swf How come the best stuff always comes from beer ads anyway?

I'll take that bet. Every turbo car I know of that has compared has found the 3.54 to be faster in the 1/4. You just don't have time to build boost with a 3.90 in first gear. (or possibly even second)

Yeah but all are not available... been there allready.

Ha, thats a wonderful suggestion John. I'll keep that in mind if my search doesn't net anything in the next day or two. Thanks a lot!

I dunno Mudge, I think you are making it sound worse than it is. Yes Scottie-GNZ is a launch demon, but there are lots of cars in the 12s with modest and extreme horsepower. Most of them are using an R200 as well. http://grannypotts.freeservers.com/Times.html Gives you some idea of what these cars can do, with various mods. But its really out of date!!! Is Andrew still around?

Chirping it into 4th, eh?

I'm trying to track down the following book: Data Power: Using racecar data aquisition by Buddy Fey Just wondering if anyone out there has a copy that they want to part with. I have a chance at a job with a Toyota Atlantic team and it was recommended that I read this book first. But its out of print and very hard to find used copies of! If anyone owns it, and doesn't want to sell it I'd still like to talk to them about it.

1 course away from my B. Eng in mechanical engineering with materials specialty. Have to wait a few more months before I take that last course. I had the chance to design 2 formula race cars from a clean slate in between classes. What a blast. Also have worked in some interesting places, doing some interesting things. From turning wrenches on 120,000kg haul trucks in a coal mine in northern BC to operating a "still" that would produce 7L/min of moonshine if it wasn't busy with other liquids, to assembling the worlds largest titanium autoclave and constructing/designing all its sub-systems. As a side note, I am also looking for employment at the moment. So if any of you engineers out there have a lead for me, shoot me an email. drax77@shaw.ca

This is a question that gets asked here about once a week. "I just got XXXX model turbo really cheap, how hard is it to make my engine a turbo?" Well lets just say that the turbo is about 10% of the monetary investment of a good turbo system. And finding one is about 0.1% of the work involved. Plus a T3 turbo is as small as you want to go on an L-series, as that is what came stock. Very few people don't want to upgrade beyond the T3. My 2 cents: If you want a turbo'd engine, get a turbo engine. (this should read: "If you have to ask on this forum, you should just get the L28 turbo engine" but I thought it sounded a bit rude) Anyway, hope this doesn't come across too harshly, like I said it gets asked all the time here.

My point was are you 100% sure you can tell the difference between 3.54 turns, and 3.36 turns, or 3.70 turns? I'd use the method zrl describes, as it is a bit more failsafe.

For me its wiring right now. I have about 5 things to be done before i can insure the car. Horn not working. Brake lights not working. Hazard lights not working. Oil pressure gauge leaking. Crack in windshield. I have spent 2 days trying to track down the horn and brake/hazard problems. As far as I can see my hazard relay is unplugged, which should kill both the hazzards and the brake lights the way things are wired. However, under no circumstances can I find the wires that need to be plugged into it. Its driving my batty. I got so upset at my car today I cracked the windshield with my fist. It allready needed replacing, but now my fist does too. It sure felt good at the time though.

I think you need to do some more research on turbo's before you get too gung-ho into running a triple carb setup with a turbo. I suggest looking around this forum and possibly getting the book "Maximum Boost" by Corky Bell. Its a good place to start. You won't get the same sound at all from a turbo'd car that you would with a triple setup, turbo or not. The turbo will totally change the exhaust note, and regardless of how you do the turbo, the carb throats won't be open to give you the sound that they would on a NA car. (Because you'll have a plenum there, and if you are doing it right, an intercooler, piping, turbo, and then open to atmosphere) Also, the more you research, the more you will see that turbo's+carb's=bad idea. There are many inherent problems with them, and certainly a lot of people on this board have tried them at some point. I've never heard of anyone that ran a carb setup with a turbo and liked it when compared with an EFI setup. EFI is the ONLY way to go if you ask me. As for the turbo stroker, I wouldn't bother. Its a lot of extra money, and unless you are planning on getting every ounce of power you can out of an engine, then your money is probably better spent on a better intercooler, turbo, efi, exhaust, etc.

Funny I saw it as two differing points of view trying to reasonably justify their opinions to others... Not sure what the harm is in it. Nobody was getting bent out of shape about it either.

Haha, you guys are funny. I consider that a 99% rust free Z!! What a great car to start a project on... (ok, so we don't have much choice up here on the wet coast) Air chisel the covers in the front wheel well off, make some new ones, weld them on... As far as the bent up frame rail, air chisel it off and make some sub-frame connectors as suggested if you are planning on putting down some torque!

A MIG welder is definately the best for a low budget, mechanic/tinkerer type person. I have a lincoln migpack 110. (heh, I think!) And it does a lot. Spend the extra money for the gas shielding though, you will be happier in the end. The only other upgrade to consider is a 220V version, but unless you are using it a heck of a lot, or on some seriously thick metal then it probably isn't worth the extra cost. The little lincoln mig welders are hard to beat.