Drax240z

You'll be too busy going sideways to take more pic's.

Just one word of advice, next time you take pictures of something all black, use a few external lights. Its really hard to tell what is going on there, but I see a big IC in there somewhere!

Jamie, it is a neat idea, I only see one point that causes some concern. (other than fabrication details, but it sounds like you are capabile in that area) To achieve effecient heat transfer from the cool intake, to the air you must have a high surface area for heat transfer, lots of turbulance, and a large temperature difference. I see a slight problem, in that ideally as far as flow rates are concerned, you'd like your intake to be smooth on the inside, and not to induce high amounted of turbulance. (which isn't always the case in a carb'd setup) I'm assuming for this trouble you are running a turbo/injection. To achieve a high rate of heat transfer, you basically want the inside of your intake to look like a radiator. Lots of fins, lots of surface area, lots of turbulance most likely. However, to achieve a high rate of airflow, you want the exact opposite situation in your intake manifold. It would be an interesting experiment. Off the top of my head I'd say you'd see more gain in low and mid-range power than top end. However, if you don't rough up your intake walls significantly, I'm not sure you'll see much effect at all as far as temperature drops in the intake charge. My 2 cents. I'd love to see it attempted and hear about some results!

Its great seeing someone doing this. I can't wait to see the results. Keep us updated please!

Given what you want and what you have to spend, I'd say your best bet is to go turbo. Plenty of room to upgrade later, but you should be able to get close to the 12's without a ton of modifications. (or $$$) I would budget $1000 for the engine swap, and spend the other $1500 you have towards upgrading suspension, brakes, tires, etc, to handle the extra power.

Gerry, a properly done V8 conversion will not add weight, and will not disrupt the weight distribution of the car. It will actually improve it. There are a lot of myths out there like V8 Z's can't handle. Untrue. The old scarab positioning probably led to a great deal of these sentiments. The proper way to do the swap is the JTR setback method. There are about 500 guys on this site that will first hand testify how well a V8 Z handles, and they can probably give you some numbers too comparing to the L series I6. To the origional question, I suggest you spend your money on suspension goodies, brakes etc and get a car that carves corners. (very addictive) Once you have that done, then go nuts on the engine. Daily driver: I'd go with a 280zx with a turbo engine. The 240z is a great car, but lacks some of the comforts of the 280zx. If you want a weekend fun car, or a racer... then either will do, but 240z with V8 probably has more potential.

If you want to hang with the big boys, and V8 isn't your style, look into swapping in a 81-83 turbo engine from a 280zx. Bolts in. 180hp, 200ft-lbs stock. Thats a big jump from the ~150hp/150ft-lbs you'd have with a stock NA 2.8. To get 220hp/220ft-lbs from a 280zxt engine would probably cost you less than $20 more. That'll put you close to your 10:1 number. If you want streetable, fuel economic, and good power then a turbo is probably the answer. I think Len is getting ~26mpg in a heavier 280z with this setup. You can probably expect to see 28mpg or so if you can keep your foot out of it. And therein lies the real issue... Or just go V8. 220hp/220ft-lbs would be a piece of cake, but for a daily driver, I'd rather have the EFI/fuel economy of the turbo setup.

Sorry to hear about your troubles Dan... Are you entertaining ideas for modifications, or are you pretty much out of things to modify on that engine? (at least as far as more power goes)

Yeah I'd like to see it. I think you could be well on your way to a 2100lbs street terror. Throw some 4.11 or 4.38 (R180!) gears in the back and you'd be laughing. I think you could run the R180 without worrying about it actually...

Perhaps the most impressive part is accomplishing both, the 5000 posts and the car. One was 3 years in the making, the other... more.

A motorcycle wrecking yard is a darn good place to start. If you can't get the key with it, I think you can get one made for it at a locksmiths anyway. (but its worth checking first) Most new sportbikes use a chromed gas door that would look sweet on any Z...

I think a motorcycle filler cap with lock and key would be my first choice. (basically aircraft style) Should be able to get one of those for less than $60 used...

Heh, Terry isn't an EE, but he's probably done cooler electrical stuff than any EE I know! You've gotta love the Tesla coil...

Heh, the big 5-0-0-0 eh Pete? I'm not sure what is more impressive, 5000 posts, or your car.

I'd stay away from Greedy myself... SDS is a good system for not too much money.

Just a 2 cents on Kodiak... best wheel company I have dealt with yet. They seem to put people on the phones that know the product, have answers ready for questions, and make a product that is very well respected at least in the FSAE world. In my experience they seem like a no-nonsense, lets get business done, kind of company. Sorry to hear about your troubles John, but they do have a good reputation, and that has to come from something that they are doing well.

Not a west coast Timmy ho's... we haven't had any of the white stuff out here this year.

A G-nose would be a large improvement as well, towards lowering the Cd. Downforce... I think the stock 240z produces lift actually.

James, you may want to consider aiming your injectors upstream into the air if you have room. Various "theories" behind this, but generally it is accepted that this orientation works best for fuel delivery into a high velocity air path. (ie: the air velocity is high enough that aiming upstream is intended to give the fuel more time to distribute itself evenly in the air) I'm pondering what type of air velocities you'll see with high boost pressure and (stock?) diameter runners. It might be something you want to pursue for packaging reasons. Personally I'd not aim them at the opposite wall of your runner, or you are going to have big problems with atomization as the fuel collects on the tube wall and forms large droplets. At high air velocities this may not be an issue, but I'd bet it would hurt your idle. Just my 2 cents... Love the custom work.

Norm, could I get the 1 extra end piece you have, or do you want to hang onto that too? (If so, I understand completely)

Bump... Norm? I know you broke a few... still have them?

Sweet. Can you post an installed picture when you have one?

Thanks Z-ya, but I hold off for a few days in hopes of finding that elusive broken one first. (V8X 2X7 is my postal code though)

Nope I don't have one, but I'd like one. Does anyone out there have an L6 crankshaft that has broken and they don't want? I'm interested in analyzing the L6 crank as my fracture & fatigue course term paper... and one that is in 2 pieces would add a nice touch to my presentation and analysis... I'll pay shipping if you've got one.

Welcome bud. No thanks necessary really, for the most part this site moderates itself, and the only reason there is such a high level of maturity here is because that is what our members bring to the table. Welcome to the site and enjoy!