Drax240z

Wow, I'd run a lot narrower than these guys do. I was thinking 205 was probably the max width you'd want... remember the wider you go on the same wheel the less stiff your sidewalls get, and you lose some feel. I guess if you are talking straight line though, the more rubber (and the less sidewall stiffness) the better. 205/60/14 would be my suggestion.

Well my first bit of advice is to spin it a lot more than 2 times to check! That could be a cause of great error. Try spinning it 10 times and counting and you'll be a lot closer. Also, just because your tires are 215/50-15's doesn't mean they have the diameter the program says they do. It would depend on pressure, temperature and the make of the tire. I'd measure your actual tire diameter, and use that to find what your pseudo tire size should be. Also as you say, the tachs are off by a few hundred RPM. Add all these errors together and I can see the problem allready.

Hydraulic all the way... Cables stretch, rust, kink and generally suck IMHO. We went through great pains to ensure out FSAE race car had a hydraulic clutch last year after fighting with a stock cable system a year before... That one experience alone with a cable clutch would never let me go back to one. Of course cable is a lot cheaper.

Way back when I considered going the "big 6" route and using a 3.3 or 3.5L BMW inline 6... would have been interesting to be sure, and I sortof wish I had gone that route, but it's definately not a bolt in. 3.5L and a crossflow head... that would have been a nice base!

Well for me I took a hacksaw, angle grinder and die grinder and went to town. Then I cut new pieces of aluminum and welded them into the holes. More grinding followed. However, if you are going to stick with the stock efi system, I think what you can remove is rather limited, but I don't know specifically what can and cannot be removed while still having the car run correctly. (not sure what the computer uses for info)

I mean that I bought it. Drewz was the man that hooked me up, and I still thank him!

I am using the EM-6E system, on a mostly stock L28 turbo. The departures from stock right now are a slightly bumped up compression ratio (7.5:1), a 60mm TB, and an NPR intercooler with associated piping. hp: Couldn't tell you, though I drove the car for the first time yesterday.

I 100% agree, and wasn't trying to say otherwise. There is a lot of crap out there for sure. Not arguing this point either. 3140lbs isn't that bad really. E30 M3's came in at ~2640lbs stock, with 195hp-238hp, depending on the model. There were 13 versions of the e30 M3 made by BMW! It wasn't blinding in a straight line, 0-60 in about 6.0 seconds... It was also designed to take up to 10" wide wheels. But its what it does in the corners that is cool. Not to say any car short of the AMC gremlin can't be made to handle with the right mods.

I'm not sure you understand... the computer that is measuring these times isn't on board the car, it is at the track. It is a stationary system of lasers or what-have-you that uses timers and optical triggers to tell how fast your car gets from point A to point B... So regardless of how fast you are spinning your tires, it can be measured accurately using this method.

It really depends on your market and the condition. If its pristine, rust free, and just suffers from things like fading paint, bad tires, maybe needs some springs or shocks or something, then yeah, 8k maybe. But if it needs anything more major I'd keep hunting. I found a 98% rust free car on this board in sask. for less than $1500 canadian. It has a few dings and dents, but whatever!

Which is why you use the 60', 330' and 1/8 mile TIMES to calculate and not your speedo readings...

Says who? Personally I would say the 89 M3 is 10 times the car that the more recent M3 is. (Though I haven't been in anything newer than a 95 M3) This case was a $10000 car vs. a $50000 car, hence the cost was 5X. Which is the comparison that was being made if I am not mistaken. (look at the post by zfan) And to appease the masses: Yes I've been in a Z06. No doubt, they are a fast car, and they handle and brake extremely well. They are also a bargain when comparing to most other cars in their class. The same was said about the e30 M3 back when it came out... Personally, I think both the new Z06 and the new M3 are both overweight pigs... But I suppose the same has been said of me, and hey, it's just an opinion.

I still don't understand "everyones" facination with the corvette. I must be missing something. I believe I recall Scottie changed to the vette rear because he didn't want his 4 speed auto to shift into overdrive before the 1/4 mile finish. Normally you'd want higher (numerically) gearing when drag racing, as it multiplies your effective torque... However, there are cases when you don't want it, even in drag racing.

I don't see what this has to do with anything. If you've driven an E30 M3 I don't think you would think its overrated at all... It's a bare bones race car, with an engine that screams, and gobs of roadholding. Yes, a Z06 would be faster, but at 5 times the cost. A McLaren F1 would be faster too. Why didn't he just buy that? The later M3's (95 on) I've been in are certainly a different beast than the E30 though. More along the lines of the Z06, albeit slower.

From the sounds of things, you haven't even driven your car with the new setup. DRIVE IT FIRST! I think the benefits of the vette rear are: a) its a fair bit lighter you can get some really low (numerically) gear ratios. I believe that is the reason why most guys go with it, since its near impossible to get a R200 with anything lower than a 3.36:1 in it, and even finding those isn't easy. It's a cool mod, but I don't think it is worth while unless you really need that lower gearing.

Heh, reminds me of a story about a guy working in a dealership bragging about how he was racing some customers car... well the customer saw the post and it all went downhill from there... I don't recall if the guy was in trouble legally for the whole affair, but I do know that he lost his job over it. Just a heads up... even though this is a somewhat "private" place on the internet, there are still things you don't want to post at all...

Yeah Jersey, how'd it go? I'm dying to know!

DO yourself a favour and find the most rust free car you can. If this looks bad on the floors, framerails, strut towers, etc. Skip it. You'll be further ahead than thinking "I'm a good fabricator, I'll just weld in new panels." Many here have gone that route and realized after the fact that the time spent making it look good isn't worth what little more $$$ they could have spent to find a rust free car.

I guess I misunderstood how you phrased it the first time. Looks like we were on the same page there. Sorry if I gave the impression that the roof couldn't handle the loads. I was trying to make the opposite point. As I said, the roof when upsidedown experiences loading in tension, which is LESS likely to buckle than right side up when the roof is in compression. The doors do more than you think. They are made to withstand collisions, and as a result have the loads applied through them from the chassis to mimic how the loads would be distributed if there was no opening in the chassis at all. Also, we need to consider that the car will see more than 2 positions, there are a multitide of crazy angles that might be convenient to work on the chassis. However, I think the weight of the bare chassis really makes it a non-issue on a rotisserie. I also think I was really tired when I read your post because I didn't really get the gist of what you were saying.

The principal you are referring to is called Helmholtz resonance. The helmholtz model is used on everything from musical instruments, to inake and exhaust systems. Basically it lets you calculate what the natural frequency is of a tube.

They are Formula SAE cars. Check out http://www.uvic.fsae.ca for more info. 1000cfm on a stock motor. That sounds like the typical over-carbing that I hear about time and time again. As for converting to EFI, I agree that the laptop sounds like the perfect way to tune an engine.

Uh, well it does. Maybe the magnitude of force doesn't change, but the roof will be going from compression loading to tension loading. The car may be inverted, but gravity doesn't invert when the car does. Anyway, the car will be less likely to collapse in on itself when upside down than it will rightside up, as something under compression can buckle, but it can't under tension. Your analogy is true, but I think flawed in relation to this question. Imagine a triangulated tressel bridge with a load in the center. Then imagine replacing that tressel with 2 straight beams, without triangulation and apply a load to the center. Bad news. Most modern day cars use their doors for torsional stiffness a great deal. When the door is closed, it completes a box, which is much stiffer than the same box with 2 openings in it. Anyway, back to the first post. With that kind of torque, I would suggest some chassis stiffening is in order. Install a roll cage and you'll have to worry about the t-tops a whole lot less. As far for putting it on a rotisserie, you should be fine if it is stripped.

Just a note on the data sheet. Anyone else find it satisfying to see that 470+hp is produced with around 520cfm of air flow? I just hear of over carburation in abundance (not necessarily on this board) and its cool to see numbers to prove that you don't need a 1050cfm carb to make 500hp.

Just a thought. Are you guys still using the stock rubber flex line with your clutch system? You've increased the size of the pressure plate, so there is more resistance as you pump the clutch pedal. Perhaps the rubber flex line is ballooning on you enough that it is killing your slave stroke. (It probably wouldn't take much flex) Just a crazy idea, but you might consider swapping in a braided SS line there and give it a shot.

Ok, I blame myself for this as mine was the first reply to David Karey's suggestion that he wanted a sequential EFI system for his car, and I suspect I set a bad tone for the thread. Anyway, if you wish to seriously continue discussion on this topic, please continue here and keep it civil. ------------------- Origional Post: ------------------- Ive decided to run this setup as i now have all the parts. F54 block flat pistons P90A with P79 solid lifters, shaved .08, shimmed .08 TWM throttle body Stock cam Now, did yall know that we may be able to use the Infiniti M30 fuel injection system? The M30 is the convertible that used the vg30. Its sequential, and not batch fire. If we are able to figure out what the pulse order is for the injectors, we may be able to run sequential injection on our inline 6's. Anyone know more about the M30 f/i system? - David Karey ------------------------------------------------------------