katman

"Dang! I guess the low 1:32.xxxs I ran at WSIR back when the ROD was a BSP car don't count. And those BSP regional and divisional class wins don't count either. I'll send the trophies back." We won a lot of races in ITS with a welded diff too. And broke some stub axles. In fact the ultimate demise of the first car was a broken stub axle followed swiftly by tub fatal contact with a wall. Ultimately, like JohnC points out, we were faster with a LSD. edit: Just to clarify- we sold that car and it wasn't under my care when the final shunt occured. Wouldn't want to tarnish my reputation (HA!) as a crew chief.

I wouldn't want to upset the overall balance of the car with a spring change, but I might be willing to risk a transitional behavior with a shock adjustment. I say increase either rear bump or front rebound. Man, I wish I had enough power for this hypothetical to be a problem

Yup, works great as long as you never have to turn....

Cold day with grit on the ground? What do you expect? Don't drive fast on grit. Now are you saying you want to be able to handle neutral on grit? Then we need the Baha setup.... You aren't going to handle neutral under all conditions. Pick one you want and then we'll help.

I had no respect for him when he was alive. He never made an effort to debunk the myth that he designed the 240Z.

Cam Doctor.

"Using a 1/8" thick cut off wheel, grind a slot through the top layer of sheet metal until the bottom layer is exposed for about 1/2". Weld up the groove and grind it smooth. Repeat 600 times throughout the chassis." Caught me!

East Coast hp is a jab at Rebombo, er, I mean Rebello, whose engines always made way more hp on his "West Coast dyno" than they did on Sunbelt's "East Coast" dyno.

"Exhaust - 10 hp Headers - 10 hp N36 intake - 10 hp K&N Filters - 10 hp Cam - 10 hp Electronic Ignition - 10 hp 10mm Plug Wires - 10 hp Electric fans - 10 hp Aluminum Flyweel - 10 hp Centerforce Cltuch - 10 hp That's a 250 hp L6 engine right there..." 260hp with a carbon fiber shift knob.....

208 crank hp (that'd be real, east coast, SAE numbers) with an L24 ITS engine: stock SU's (basically), stock cam (basically), stock ITS prepped E31 head, stock +1mm blueprinted bottom end (basically), custom headers and carb needles. All it takes is a $8000 check to Sunbelt. No problemo.

Sorry to say, but the top of the inner fender is not a safe place IMHO to mount the main hoop. And how are you going to do door bars? There was a time, like 1983, when just a roll bar was legal for IT (Z's were in ITGT back then), and I raced one just like this (but with a crossbar between the aft legs as previously mentioned to attach the harness to at the right angle), but I wouldn't use this as a foundation for an ITS cage today. Not after what I've seen. I think this Autopower rollbar was originally certified for SCCA Solo I and showroom stock a really long time ago. It really isn't what they have in mind for ITS. The main hoop really needs to mount to the floor, in front of the inner fender, so it can shear the vertical loads into several load paths. That also gives you something to mount your door bars to. http://www.izzyscustomcages.com/ZCageArticle.html for the discussion on ITS cages.

Yeah, I was sorta joking about the piston. With MSD we ran .060 gaps. But they'll arc about a foot outside of a combustion chamber. Yikes!. Just a data point- In the ITS cars (200 crank hp, 9.5:1 CR, 7400 redline) we got a couple more ponies with the Jacobs unit over the MSD. However, the Jacobs has a switch you can close that gives it a little boost and actually does result in yet a couple more hp, but it is designed for low duty cycle apps like drag racing. On the engine dyno we noticed after several "switch on" pulls that hp dropped off. Probably overheating whatever circuit was involved, so for road racing we couldn't use it. Like all aftermarket parts, Jacobs promised us 10 hp with our application and we got 2.

Well that depends a lot on the ignition system you have. If stock then use FSM specs. If MSD, well you don't really need a gap because it will arc off the top of the piston. So, anywhere inbetween sorta depends on what you're running.

Do you want SCCA approved because you're going to be racing with SCCA, or are you just looking for guidelines? If the former, download the rules first for the class you're targeting and then read them about 5 times. Otherwise, tell us specifically what you're trying to accomplish and we can be of more help.

The late Mark Donohue.

Sunbelt Racing Engines (770) 932-0160. Bring about $15-20k.

Money = power. How much power do you have to spend? Now be realistic, we can tell.

The word usually used to describe me begins with a capitol "A", and ends with "hole". But I do know a smidge about structure.

Yup, way forward and low like JohnC says. Drove one in a street Z for years, no problems, liked it actually. For the life of me, I can't figure out why car manufactures still don't have an elegant solution for the blind spot, and in fact, in most cars you can't tilt the right hand mirror enough to cover it. Unbelievable IMHO.

If it's a first gen car (tach), all you need is a el cheapo Chrysler ballast resistor from you local auto parts store. Look in http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/thomasMSD.htm for a diagram.

That's pretty funny. If they could get them moving side to side it could be a commercial for the 350Z...

"You just don't get it do you. You need to stop being so hardcore, pull the stick outa your butt and lighten up cat." Gee, mom always said find something nice to say, so I did. That bar has more downforce than any I've seen lately... Ouch, I did it again. Bad keyboard, bad! But seriously, from a structural engineering standpoint you have an extremely challenging situation. If you eventually lower the engine as planned that will do many good things, including providing the opportunity to make a strut bar with some real handling benefit. Meanwhile, you made something that looks cool, practiced nice workmanship, and, snicker... added some downforce. That was "lightened up". And it's kat with a "k".

5 more pounds of downforce....

As bubbles noted, ERadatz Motorsports (Eddie) doesn't do his own machining, it goes to Goza.

"Any help on finding someone reliable, fast, and relatively okay on pricing is greatly appreciated." I noticed you left out "competent", which is good, because "competent" and "fast" are mutually exclusive. As are "Good" and "relatively okay on pricing". Balanced Performance in Suwanee don't do machine work, but they are conveniently located next door to Sunbelt Performance Engines, who would be the best from a competency standpoint, but of course one of the worst for fast and cheap. Goza in downtown Acworth would be your next best bet.