luseboy

well I just called the place I linked to. I got a message machine... so we'll see what happens. Left my name and number and stuff so we'll see if they ever call back...

Thanks for the links minh! jeez I did not realize how much the oem ones go for . I can't imagine how much an imported NOS g-nose would be... And I did see the z-force one before, and I may end up going with that one. But the one I linked is like $400, probably too good to be true... but maybe not?

Well I got my coil over kit. It came in 2 days, turns out TTT is only about 2 hours from here. Funnily enough, they're located in the same city that I bought my shell in! If anyone is on the fence about the gc kit, go for it! It is such good qaulity. I didn't want to go for them at first because there's kinda a stigma about gc sleeves with other car communities, or at least the ones I've been on. Well I think they work great for the Z as long as you don't drop too low and you section the strut tubes. The set is very high quality, I'm really impressed with it acctually. Lately I haven't been doing that much work to the car... I've just been running out of projects and waiting on getting money. The head and block are mated and timed, and the engine is basically all back together now. I just need to time the dizzy/oil pump shaft and put gaskets under the valve cover, oil pan, and cam timing cover. I also need to repaint the block since I did a crappy job and most of the paint has flaked off already lol. so once I get the motor back to my house I will mask it off and paint it again. I'm gonna get the key blanks I got off ebay cut this week (probably tomorrow). Hopefully I can get a key made for the gas cap while I'm at it. If I'm really lucky, I might be able to get the gas cap re-keyed to accept the key for the Z, but I doubt it. Unless... were locking gas caps a factory option? Is it possible that the gas cap matches the door locks and ignition key already? I hadn't thought of that before...I always just assumed it would be a different key. Also, I really like the g-nose look... so I have been looking into how I can achieve getting a G-nose... has anyone bought anything off this website? their kit is a good price http://www.showcars-bodyparts.com/240z.html but it seems like a really out of date website. I sent them an email, I guess we'll see what happens. I'm gonna start doing body work soon. I gotta start getting all the exterior stuff so I can start painting. I decided I'm going to turn my garage into a spray booth for a week or whatever and paint the car. I'm gonna hate life during that time most likely haha. Anyways thoughts on g nose? I just don't really like the other air dams that much. If I get one it will be an msa type 1 and I'll shave the bumper holes and make a custom grill. But the g-nose just looks so cool, especially without headlight covers. thoughts?? oh and I started doing some body work. I welded in a piece under the antenna hole and ground down the weld flush. It will clean up nicely with some body filler. Then I ground down the welds I did before in the rivet holes from the side gaurd things in the rear qaurter, and ground down the rivets themselves from the door. Then I poked my head under the car just because... and someone has fitted an electronic fuel pump at some point... or at least that's what it appears to be, gold cylinder with wires coming out of it and a gas line at each end. So that's kinda cool, I wonder if it still works.

Well In thinking and looking through everything, I decided to go with a universal heater and make that work. It will take a lot less swearing to make it work! And will likely work better than the stock system. Plus then I'm not wrestling with trying to take out just the a/c stuff!

some of those look tempting... but I think I do have what I need except for the heater core which is easy enough to find. I'm just trying to figure out what is for the heater and what is for the a/c. As I said I want to keep the heater and get rid of the a/c. So what can I remove? Am I correct in my thinking that one of the components under the dash is for the a/c and the other is for the heater? I should probably get a haynes manual, that would probably answer my questions, right?

well I'm doing a full resto-mod. I never had all the components; no heater core, no a/c compressor, but everything else (I think ). The only things I removed where the components under the dash. Is there perhaps a better way of doing this? Like taking the heater system out of a different car and making that work better?

ok, so I have a couple little updates. I decided to sell the mini and buy a prelude or something, just to last me a couple months and to have cash to finish the Z. Craigslist is being wierd... and the ad isn't showing up so I haven't gottan any emails or anything (if anyone wants a mini, pm me!). Hopefully I will be able to get enough cash to finish the Z in a couple months, which would be awesome! Also changed my mind on suspension and decided sectioned strut tubes with some illuminas and a gc coil-over set up would suit the Z better. I ordered a gc setup from TTT this morning, with 225# fronts and 250# rears, so that should be good. Too bad I won't be able to acctually install them until I have enough for struts. But I will probably get struts in pairs. I will be using AW11 mr2 rear coilovers in the front, and stock size front 240z coilovers in the rear. I think this will be the perfect set up for me, or at least I hope so! more on this later.

ok, so I hope I'm not posting yet another thread on a topic that has been beaten to death... but I have been trying to figure out how to do this. Basically I hate a/c's and never use them. But I love having a heater when it gets cold... plus having a defroster for the windshield is really useful! So I want to get rid of my a/c but keep my heater. How do I do this? I know I'll need a heater core (how do I hook one up anyways? can I make it work some other way?), and the heater blower. I took two black box-type things out from under the dash, which where hooked together. If I'm not mistaken, one is the heater blower and one is for the a/c? Anyways I have no knowledge of how this stuff works, I'm really lost with figuring out how to do this. If this has been discussed before, I must be horrible at searching... so please link me! but if not, someone please help me understand how to do this... pics help! Really appreciate any help with this, it'll definitely come in handy! -Austin

You should definitley come up north sometime too, a nice drive out to the coast is always fun. And even further north in the wine country are a lot of fun roads that I used to go on with the mini club. I'm still getting familiar with them, but there are some really fun ones. And one in particular that takes you down near the jelly belly factory... can't remember what it's called, but it is one of the most fun roads I've ever driven. My local hill that I get most of my fun out of is called fairfax-bolinas road, or dubbed bofax by most locals. It's a fun, tight road that you can't go too fast on, so it's pretty fun and not that scary. It can take you to the coast too but I've never taken it that far. It's probably not worth the drive for you though.

how did you paint the car? using the high density foam roller method, real paint sprayer, rattle can (sure doesn't look like it... but thought i'd ask ) I ask because I plan on painting my car, probably with the roller method, but I wanted to know what you did? I may be PMing you for some more details on it... and what coilovers are you running? This car looks freaking clean. I really like what you did with it. I usually don't get excited by a lot of the parts you used... but wow they all go together great on your build. awesome job! have you driven it yet? I'm aching to drive my Z... but I've still probably got 4 or 5 months left.

yes the roads are crap for the most part. but in marin they seem to be doing a lot of road work lately. i think it's from the economy bumping up and them giving people jobs.

I live just north of san fransisco, in marin. Funnily enough my DD is a cooper s too. I literaly just posted it for sale on craigslist a couple hours ago though. San Jo is supposed to have some great roads. I haven't driven any of them. But up north in marin, I know of a few really fun roads that I like to take my mini on. I haven't driven my Z yet so I don't know how it does on them . I assume you have to move your stuff out too? I got my car from a guy 3 hours away and used a u-haul trailer. You can haul a car behind the uhaul trucks too, and the trailer works great. Plus they let you leave the truck and trailer at a different location, so I'd reccomend that route, it only costs like 50 bucks for the u-haul rental. Anyways I just found it funny that we both have the same two cars. Maybe we can go on a Z drive someday when I get my Z driving, assuming thats anytime soon. And it is a great area to live in, I'm sure you'll love it!

haha ok I must be searching the wrong search term or something. I literaly can't come up with anything... would you mind linking me? or just telling me what the terms I should search for are? haha and I've only been on here about a month and a half so I'm not really familiar with everything yet.

I will search right now! haha ya i didn't think it would be... 40+ years of racing heritage and i'm the first to come up with it?! I sure don't think that's realistic haha... sorry for not realizing that you were being sarcastic... makes me feel pretty awkward haha.

Hello, looking to buy some s13 coilovers. They've gotta be compatible with the 240z s13 coil conversion, meaning they have to have a removable lower strut mount. Preferably, the strut mounts would also be steel but if not then I'm sure I can find some replacements somewhere. I would consider buying just a front set (I'd need two front sets), and I don't need the upper strut top hat. PM me if you've got anything. I'm in Norcal but would be willing to pay shipping within a reasonable price. Thanks! -Austin

Yeah I saw that one before (might have been in this thread, can't remember). It's a very sleek set up, no doubt. But a bit different than what I'm planning on. and thanks for the heads-up on the spectre stuff. I just checked their stuff out, looks promising for sure, and its at the right price. Thank you!

Nope, I've never driven a Z. In fact, never ridden in one. I do not want to go efi, I was just saying that I've only ever heard open air intake systems on EFI cars, such as my MINI. I am sure that carbs sound better than efi .

haha well it's tricky to tell, as im sure you have experienced as well! . Well I did search before I posted... and I could only come up with one person who did it, and it was the previously mentioned VQ swap... So who else has done it?

I have one on my car but no key... is it possible to get keys made for these? is there any place that I can find a key code?

Widening the track and getting more neg. camber (or less camber if you will) go hand in hand. I am planning on buying these LCA's front and rear, they seem like a good idea. If you're on a tight budget.. I'd still say go for them because they will hold up, and as I understand it, you need to have dialed in suspension geometry to be able to be competitive in drifting, so this would give you the adjustability. Plus they are pretty well known in the drift world. I also plan on going for their RCA's, you should consider this too, to get correct angles after lowering your car.

Just looked at his car... his setup is different from what I was talking about. His runs out of the stock exhaust hole and then off to one side. What I was thinking was running an exhaust in front of the rear axle and wheels. I probably won't do it because of the amount of custom work required, but if you don't use sub frame connectors (makes it not worth it imo), and you cut out the lower stock seatbelt mounting well and replaced it with a flat piece of steel, you could fit an exhaust pipe through there. It's really not worth it and you'll just be creating more problems. I have decided to run a single pipe to the rear of the car as the car was designed.

not to steal the thread... but I feel that it will help the OP as well as me. How do you like the performance of the set up? I have heard good and bad things about the performance of the 4bbl set up. Have you noticed any inconsistent fuel/air mixtures between cylinders? Got any sound clips? I have yet to hear what they sound like. Anyways thanks for your response, I personally am still on the fence about the set up, but I'm leaning towards the 4bbl.

I have never seen a 4bbl intake like that... I do not know what that is. But it appears to not have equal-length runners, which the azc manifold has. Some people have had problems with tuning carbs when the mani doesn't have equal length runners. Im sure you'll be fine though. Google product search can come up with engine mounts and trans mounts. MSA (thezstore.com) has them as well. You just have to look around for the best price. If it's an early 260, you will probably have to cut out about 2 inches from the front of the shifter hole in the tranny tube. Only way to know for sure is to test fit.

I know this is an old thread but I have been thinking of doing this. I saw one car with it... but I forgot where. Was anything ever figured out on whether or not it is possible? also is it legal for road use?

1- to my knowledge, yes they will all work except the fuel pump most likely won't work... depends on the head and date it was made. But switching to an electric fuel pump is a very worthwhile upgrade, and is cheap for carbs. Just make sure you get a low psi one, not an efi one. And I'd reccomend looking into a 4bbl carb conversion, with an arizona z car manifold. It will be much cheaper than webbers, parts are readily available, tuning is easier, and you can get a brand new carb set up for a fraction of the price of a triple set up. 2- I bought my engine on craigslist. I'm buying my tranny off of a guy here. Differential mounts get tricky.. some people like the solid ones, some like the stockers, and some like the urethane ones. You'll have to research more on it, there's a ton of info on this site about it. 3- yes, a direct bolt in. However depending on when your 260 was made, you may have to cut open the shifter hole a bit. And make sure you don't get a borg-warner t5 trans because then you need a custom or turbo driveshaft. 4- yes I believe the 280zx is longer... I may be wrong though. 5- As I understand it, they are slighty longer and give you a higher compression ratio. If you have them already and you're doing a rebuild, I say why not.