luseboy

Oh no! That's not good... Let us know how it goes!

this basically does the same thing, looks better too imo. http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-bleeder-and-vacuum-pump-kit-92474.html. I think it's worth it to flip the caliper anyways, it's not a hard thing to do, you rarely have to bleed brake anyways, unless your a track junkie and you boil your fluid a lot, and it's not like it's that hard to flip the caliper, right?

That is a really nice dash in that car, I hope that dash is used by someone. Unfortunatley, that car appears to have a lot of rust in the areas you don't want rust, such as the front x-member mounting points and the shock towers. The floor pans are great! But idk, personally, suspension mounting points are more important than the floors. Good luck finding a Z that doesn't need any restoring for 2k. I'd say it's probably worth your time to find one in arizona and drive it back if possible, that's where nothing rusts too badly. Or buy one knowing it'll need some welding and take a class/buy a little mig welder. Pretty much all the Z's you can buy need a partial or full restoration, and if they don't, that means someone already did it, and they love it too much to let it go for anything in the $2k range.

You know you own a datsun when your hands are never clean, even after using 3 applications of fast orange. You know you own a datsun when every single time you walk in to a parts store or hardware store you always wind up walking out with some sort of penetrating oil and a degreaser product. You know you own a datsun when all the cans of penetrating oil in your garage are empty, you also know that you just finished un-installing half of your suspension at this point. You know you own a datsun when you contemplate between buying food or buying a rust converting product. You know you own a datsun when hybridz is before facebook on your google chrome most visited sites.

It's not a bad idea to remove it all, but it's really not necessary. I am going to just remove what I can and then undercoat over everything afterwards. Should work well.

You can get a set of xxr/sportmax rims for like $250 for a set of 4. Tirerack is having a wheel clearance sale today too, so you might be able to get some cheap wheels with tires mounted. Do you not have any wheels? If the ones you have are bad, you can always buy wheel dollies to push the car around on, that's what I did, and I'm happy with it.

Haha I like this thread. Post more! My car is also gutted, but I don't have a tranny anyways haha. Here's the one I'm gonna get, with the matching handbrake handle if I can get that to work. It's a sparco settanta, sells for about $65. Never seen or heard of anyone else using one. (If anyone has, let me know!) I'm not even sure what it's made out of. I've read leather covered aluminum (least likely), machined aluminum (most likely), polyurethane, etc.

Haha ya I feel the same way, but I'm still in highschool so homework, work, friends, the girlfriend, etc. all get in the way sometimes haha. Sounds like an easy way to do it... I may have to do that myself. Seems simple enough. More pics would be cool, you can PM them if you don't want to get the thread off topic or something. Where did you mount the front one to the front of the car? Well, now it looks like I'll have to do this as well...

Oh I see haha. Never seen that piece before. Haha I hate a/c systems, I never use the damn things.

Look into an MSA or AZC radiator, they're not that much more than an ebay one, and are most likely a lot better. I plan to get the AZC one for my '73. Whats up with that thing bolted to the center console on the driver's side? Power mirrors?

Well to my defense, I did take the blade into account. But it does not matter. Your strut tubes look great! Looks like you spent a little more time than I did as far as flap sanding them down, I simply just wire brushed mine a bit, washed them really well, then primed and painted them. But I'm sure yours will continue to look good longer than mine haha. I was just admiring your rotisserie ( I know this is off topic... ), is it basically two engine stands, one on the front of the car and one on the back? Looks like it, except with modified "arms."

Seats look great in there, much better than the stock ones! Haha I guess I'll be putting your old 5 speed to use, Leon... A chain of 5 speeds lol

That anti football run looks fun! Maybe I'll go next year since I'll have the Z up and running for sure by then. Your new diff looks sweet! I'm sure the LSD will play nice haha. Pics of the seats installed!?

I just realized that I had ben totaly confused about how mufflers fit to exhaust tubing. I thought they were both measured from the ID, but now I realize that tubing is measured OD and mufflers/resonators are measured ID. Haha now I understand how it works. I think I will be fine with band clamps, I don't see it as being much of a problem. I'll make sure to coat the junction with anti-sieze. Is there really not going to be enough room for a 12" hushpower 2 resonator and a 12" race bullet in the tunnel? The race bullet comes in aluminized steel, so I can just weld that to the aluminized steel piping I will use. Which reminds me, what kind of prep do I need to do before welding the aluminized steel? I use mig with the normal mild steel wire and argon/co2 mixture. I think the msa header is the one I'll go with. I'm going to wrap it with a DEI titanium header wrap as well. In this video, he's using what I believe to be a Borla XR-1 muffler. I love the sound a lot after he adds the race bullet, and I feel that the resonator would quiet it down a little more and give it the sound I'm looking for. The XR-1 is very similar sounding to the pro xs but significantly louder. That said, the stroker motor has a different sound from the stock motor, and is louder from what I can tell, so overall my exhaust will be much quieter, but his is way too loud for me, and I want a quiet exhaust! And I won't need to buy flanges since the msa header comes with one already welded to a piece of 2.5" piping, which will probably have my resonator clamped to it, and maybe my 02 sensor bung in it if there's enough room. What do you guys use to hang the exhaust? I was hoping to make something like this work: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WLK-36317/ with these welded to various points throughout the exhaust: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WLK-35005/?rtype=10 . And one last question, should I get a flex pipe? My thinking is that it's not needed.

Haha well yes, as I said, I'm only trying to induce about -2* camber, which isn't much compared to how far you can go. If mark is running 3* without issue, I should be fine! Haha I'm sure, too much negative camber is bad, and incorrect toe is also bad haha.

This is what I was hoping to hear. Thanks!!

Thanks for the advice on mufflers! If I end up having to go cheap on the exhaust I may go with a summit muffler, but we'll see. Good call on the U-bends, I guess I'll get some of those and use them as you did. Well I think my exhaust should be nice, I decided to also add in a dynomax race bullet in the tranny tube a ways after the resonator. And I will be making a crankcase evac system and putting in an o2 sensor for a wide band. We'll see how everything turns out.

Hey, So I'm working on my front suspension on my Z and I've been thinking about fabbing up my own adjustable tie rod ends. By adjustable, I mean length, not bumpsteer as I have seen done on this forum. I guess my question mainly is, do I really need to? I'm going to be using TTT adjustable LCA's front and rear, and plan to run about 2* of negative camber with them. Do you think I will run out of adjustment with the tie rod ends to set the front toe to 0? And if I were to do this, what would be the best approach? I've mainly seen people just chop off the end on the tie rod, weld on a threaded tube, and install a rod end which they put a bolt through into the steering rack. I've been thinking of chopping out a portion of the middle of the tie rod end, and putting in a (not sure what to call it, basically a stud that is normal threaded on one half, and reverse on the other, with a nut in the middle), and welding threaded portions to each side. What do you guys think? I know there's been some discussion about this, but I haven't seen anyone do what I'm talking about by cutting the middle out. Is it better to use a rod end? A ball joint seems better to me... but I'm not nearly as knowledgeable as some people on here. I guess the other option would be trying to find one made for a different car and making it work with a Z, that doesn't seem like a bad option, and wouldn't take too much fabrication if I'm not mistaken. Anyways the Z is all taken apart so now is the time. I appreciate any and all thoughts/input! -Austin

Well I pieced together some new hardware for my X-member and steering rack mounts today. Using some black oxide metric allen head bolts from mc-master, which are grade 12.9, and some nylock nuts from them as well. I also got my tie rod ends off, taking half my left thumbnail off with the... can't remember which side, the one that's reverse threaded. Hurt pretty bad haha. I'm starting to rebuild my steering rack. I'm also going to be replacing the little rubber bushing on the U-bolt thing on the steering rack with a piece of poly cut out of a poly bushing I got for free, it goes to the rear wishbone on my mini, but I don't want to use it since I am trying to sell that, plus then I have some poly I can cut up and use for various projects. It's acctually a $70 bushing kit too which is interesting. Also a guy from work gave me a really cool looking older wilwood proportioning valve, it's pretty sweet. He only wants $35 for it too, but he just told me to pay him whenever. And besides that I have just been stripping the paint in my engine bay. Oh and I'm getting my engine back home on monday, since it's pretty much done. I'm going to adjust the valves, finish installing the rear main seal, and re-paint the block before I drop it in though. That will be in quite a while anyways.

I know this is an old thread... But I've been wondering why I haven't seen more of these. The car that made me decided to build a Z was a lime green 240z with beat up paint that looked lowered that passed me on my way to school on sir francis drake blvd. right by TCBY. I also saw a white s30 (not sure which) on D street in san rafael with an MSA type 3 body kit, just before it turns into wolfe grade. And there's a darker green 240z I've seen in fairfax a few times, and a yellow one I've also seen in fairfax. Anyone on here??

Oh ****. Thank you so much, I owe you big time. Jeez I knew it was too good to be true, good thing I don't have the money to spend anyways haha. Anyone know anything about the Z force G nose? It seems pretty nice.

G nose is a go. I called Showcars body parts this morning, and left another message. During english class I got a call from a random canadian number and what do you know? It was the owner of showcars. I am either going to buy his kit or the Z force productions one, haven't decided. His is about 400, 2 piece. The Z force I can get for about 600 shipped. I will be buying Z force hood hinges either way. What's the deal with these hinges? I've read lots of people saying that they're super hard to put on? What's the deal here, doesn't seem too bad to me

Thanks man! Can't wait to hear about it. I am definitely going with the wilwood MC.

I really want a G nose

Ya 15x8 is pretty much perfect haha. Well I haven't bought them yet, but I'm already decided on -5's, I don't mind using a spacer, and that way if I ever have to sell them, it will be much easier. Plus I don't know how they'll fit, so I'd rather size them so that I can space them out if need be. I will post pics on here when I'm done so you can see the brakes through the wheel I'm thinking purple for the caliper paint...