Clifton
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Posts posted by Clifton
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anyways clifton i am curious in what other engines out there thats in low price range and capable of 450whp. im always down to try new engine thats in a low budget.
I didn't see this until now. I'm with Bryan on the 1U. It is hard to make 500 rwhp with 3 liters on pump gas without spending crazy money on head and cam work and you still have a pretty high boost threshold.
I like the 1U too but like the VH45 a little more, a little more cc's and the heads flow a bit more than the early 1UZ. If I can get my engine sold (hopefully this week) I'll be doing the VH. I will keep the power the same, mid 500 rwhp with less boost but my off boost torque will be double and I can run the same turbo and with the extra displacement it should spool 50% faster:mrgreen: The VH n/a makes more rwhp and torque than a stock 2JZ with boost and they are dirt cheap. HP is good but having a broad power band is even better. They are cheap to swap and even with the stock c/r and low boost they will make pretty good power for very little money, I paid $600 for a whole running Q45.
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This might give people and me an idea of what can be expected at which boost level etc , bhp (if known)
This greatly depends on the turbo used. For an example, for me 15 psi is around 350-360 rwhp.
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Rides like a unsprung go cart. Any suggestions about the proper spring - strut applications?
Sounds just right.
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IMO you would be better off getting another harness. They are old cheap cars, there's plenty of parts out there. I have one if you are interested (cheap if it's what you need) or post up in the classifieds.
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AZC used to run and make a blow through set up back in the early 90's.
I would just do MS and keep it efi just from a cost stand point but if you wanted to blow through you could use the msd 6al btm (more $ than MS) and be able to control timing under boost. Or even cheaper, use an hei to fire the coil and use the non 6a BTM to control timing.
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My external Walbro is pretty quite. I did have a Paxton pump that you could hear down the street. The volume wasn't so great on it either, so I went with the Walbro.
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Runner length is a big determiner of the where peak torque is. I don't know if his runners are any shorter than stock. I'm sure they are larger though. I wasn't trying to talk you out of the cam. Just didn't want you to think the torque curve is all in the cam.
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I'm sure you can make 500 rwhp on a factory manifold. I'm saying that in my experience from the dyno, a larger, short runner will do alot more for your power band than a cam. A lot of making power is in the boost and turbo choice. You run enough boost and you will make the power. Most don't though.
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I'm with Brapp on the manifold being the problem. Short, larger runners would do more for you than a cam. I've dynod with a stock efi mani, custom mani with stock cam and custom mani with a bigger cam, all turboed and both dynos with the custom mani held the torque and HP longer. I have my last one posted on here somewhere.
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I ran one on my street Z and still one one on my track Z with L28. Made 350 ish rwhp at 15 and 408 rwhp at 21 psi. There may be better but they do work.
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You can EASILY do it with a stock long block, fuel rail and ex mani. It will be reliable as long as you don't get crazy with the timing and don't push it to far on the octane you are running. Regardless of pistons, rods, and whatever else you want to use you will need atleast 20 psi to do it.
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Me too. The 1UZ looks like a tidy package. Lighter than the VH45DE possibly?
It's been a while since I've seen the numbers on the 1UZ but I remember it being some where around 30 lbs lighter. The early 1UZ doesn't have the head flow that the VH has though. The VH nakes to the wheels what the 1U does at the crank. The later VVT 1UZ's heads are pretty good and the make the same as the VH's flow and HP wise.
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Thanks guys,
So I should be safe with an 17x8.5 with an offset of +4 for the rear?
I'm considering running two different wheel width. I was thinking running 17x8.5 (+4 offset) for the rear and 17x7.5 (+4 offset) for the front.
Will there be any rubbing under stock standard guards?
Cheers
I would run the same 8.5 on the front too. My 17x9 rear works out to be a 24mm offset. I don't know about a 8.5, +4. Seems out there a little.
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I haven't heard the term lipping. Is it trimming the inner fender lip?. I run a 17x9 with a 275mm tire non flared. You have to run a 8" coil over though. Some brands of 275 are wider than others. Nitto and Toyo fit the best. The wider ones, Kumho and MT need a small inner lip trim. A 245/255 tire would easily fit with zero trimming. You can run a 18x9.5 too.
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I would assume by your name that you might believe the 7M is the best engine out there and may not see it's flaws. I'm not stuck on one engine as the best Most have short comings, the 7M has more than most, that's all.
It's not just a low torque thing. L28's have smaller head bolts only torques a few more pounds and rarely blow gaskets. Toyota's 3VZ has HG problems, 1FZ has problems, and the early 5VZ has problems. Blowing only on the exhaust side isn't from low torque.
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What makes me laugh is the quest for power. How many people here really need over 250?
I think for some, 250hp or less isn't worth doing. I'm in that boat. For those that can be happy with A 10:1 power to weight ratio they will be happy. I need 5:1 though.
the KA has been used in racing, Trucks and SCCA GT2.
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Cool. It's been locked down way before I had SDS so it will be an easy swap.
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Actually 79-85 are solid rotor (straight axle), truck or 4 runner. 86-95 vented (IFS). V6 definitely got the staggered sized piston calipers. I have seen 4cyl IFS 4 runners with even sized and with staggered pistons. I wouldn't go by the stamping. I have seen vented and solid calipers with the same stamping.
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Someone brought up an L. Torque is a big factor. A Z with a 300 hp SR20 turbo vs an 300 hp L28 turbo or 15 psi vs 15 psi. The L28 will be faster, have more torque, broader power band, and be easier to drive. This can also be said for a KA vs SR.
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I would get a better measurement on the compressor inducer. Big difference in flow between a S and V trim. You can run a .58 T4 flange housing on it, that's what I run on my L28 with a P trim. Or you could get a T3 housing machined to fit the P trim wheel.
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Thanks Moby. I actually have a 77 dizzy. If it is just as easy to hook up, I won't go edis. It's alot easy not pulling the damper off and fabbing the trigger/wheel mount.
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I used them on a 3vz. These are the ones.
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The blue top dsm ones are 450. They are a little short than the Z ones and are O-rings but you can trim off a little plastic and get a hose over the lip. I've used them like that for 10's of thousands of miles without a problem.
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so stock L28 internals plus the l28ET goodies should work with 7 psi? as long as I manage my fuel right?
And manage your timing, especially with n/a pistons.
Stock 7MGTE
in Toyota L6 Forum
Posted
Single, I still have the T72 I was running on my 7M.
600 rwhp on a stock 1U or VH isn't that hard. The more CC's the easier it is. I had over 500 rwhp on a stock block 200k mile 7m for over two years until a wastegate line came off:sad:. This was every time I drove it, not just sometimes. I paid $400 for a used T66 and $450 for the T72. If you shop around there are deals. There was an LS1 locally w/ T56 for $2500. They can easily do 400 rwhp with a cam and headers and have crazy power band. IMO that's pretty good for n/a and zero lag. I despise push rods or that would be my 1st choice.. It's not the max power but the curve.
BOV's are cheap, use a stock regulator. a 4" think IC is $150 shipped.