Clifton
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Posts posted by Clifton
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That pic of the spacer was from AZC.
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Some of you guys have listed your fuel cells. Most don't mention if your using a stock fuel tank and a surge tank. I think listing what fuel components your using would be very benefical information, a key component that gets overlooked everywhere else (it seems).
Thanks for participating in this thread! Great stuff
I though about it but it was an L28 engine thread and the fuel tank/cell mods would be necessary regardless of the engine, it's more the intended purpose of the car.
Yasin, Thanks. The intercooler was cheap:mrgreen:. I did it before the knock offs were priced what they are today. I ran one on my 73 for awhile too. They work pretty good.
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Looking at this picture I think it, plus it's what they were made for. Don't know about other spacers though.
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Block. Unknown mileage J/Y turbo short block
Head. P90, port matched and cleaned up, Schneider springs, Delta cam
Intake. Custom manifold, MKIII intercooler
Ex Man. Stock w/ T4 flange welded on
Turbo. GT35R cold side/ P trim,.58 hot. 38mm WG 15 psi base spring
EFI. 550's, SDS
HP.... With old turbo (slightly smaller), different JY block and stock cam. 358
rwhp at 15 psi, 417 w/ 22 psi on a dynojet.
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20 psi blows through without actuating anything... I can feel / hear the air leaking out.
Air shouldn't blow through the wastegate actuator. Sounds like a ruptured diaphragm.
You can see what it should open at with it removed from the flapper. The more tension on the WG diaphragm spring (preload), the more pressure it will take to open it.
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I've already turned one set of rotors ( 5lug kit) and they are warped again. This is on the street car too.
When you indicated on the hat was it the rotor mounting surface side? I was considering just buying a new pair of rotors but I know they will warp too. I need to check my hats without the rotors on.
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An L28, 7m, or just about any engine with decent turbo friendly compression can handle 25 psi if timing are kept in check and octane is high. I've run 22 on L28 cast, will run more in a month and 30 psi on cast 7M for more tank fulls than I can even think. I have around 570 rw ft/bs at 28 psi. I have no problem with traction. Yes you have to run a drag radial but that's the price to have a high powered Z. If you can be happy with 400 rwhp with a stock or not much larger then it will have good power under the curve on a 2.5. I guarantee you will not like driving around a 800 hp 1J on the street, atleast if you want to make boost without 3 downshifts to get 6000 rpms.. Power is in the head and torque is in the displacement or boost. Torque is good but it's even better at broad range.
You are the man and i like to challenge you, so i can learn...but there are more reason than just peak hp or tq when choosing a engine..what about cost, reliability, capability with curb weight???? I seen guys run 500wtq v8's ( @3000rpm) and i can tell you, it's not good for the street or daily driving...My dad swapped a 350 in a 1g rx7 back in the day. he was running 12:1 compression, mild cam, and aluminum heads, the car was like it was on ice running 11in wide tire and rim....Sure you can fix these problems with suspension or 4 link set ups..thats out of my league and probably most i would guess..point I'm trying to make is there's nothing wrong with making power up in the power band if you are light...i've seen dynos of 1jz making over 500hp from 4500rpm-8000rpm..thats awesome...sure @ 25+ psi, but the 1jz can handle that no prob..Stock internals!!Which brings me to my other points. cost and reliability i paid about $1900 for my 1jz. 1jz are nearly 300hp in stock trim and hold up to 800hp on stock internals( from what i read, never done this my self)....so i figure with the right turbo and mods you can have 400whp for $4500-$5000...pretty good in my book...a ls1 will cost you around 5 grand just for the motor and manual trans and thats only 350hp at the crank...Theres no doubting the ls1 has way more potential, if you are trying to reach that, than i agree it's better to start off bigger and badder....
If your car is not set up to harness the tq a turbo ls1 or any other 8v will make, whats the point?... thats the reason there civics out there killing people with only 300whp..peak hp to weight ratio wins...
Any way sorry the tread jack, holset turbos are like the secret that everyone know about now... about 4-5 years ago people were giving these away 100-200 bones!!! now look to pay aroung $400 for a good one, which is still a good deal...i have seen DSMs making 400hp+ with the HX35....Just be careful what rear hosuing you get cause it reads in CM..for example rear housing are 12CM, 14CM up to 20CM...
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so is it posible to make 800-900hp with a l28 stock block?
99% of the people on this board will never get close to what an engine can make. They don't look at off boost power or drive ability. If they did they wouldn't do an SR20 or RB20 swap. Most run them with stock turbos and and maybe 15 psi. Posts like yours do give hope but it is false hope. No 2.5l engine is making 800-900 Hp on anything that will make boost under 6000 rpms and not without running 40 psi and most people won't run $10 + gal gas everywhere they go to do it. Fun on the street I'm sure. I never said an L28 could make 800 hp. I have seen 1JZ's make low 500 rwhp with a big asss turbo and 30 psi. No different than a what 30 psi would do for a 7M or L28, except they would make more torque doing it. A 4-6L engine with 15-20 psi on pump gas will have better street manners and shame a 30 psi race gas using, laggy 2.5l any day. Don't fall in love with just one engine and be blinded by what it can make at peak hp, there is more to it than max HP.
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so yo are saying u wouldnt do it a 7m again ?????
I have a hx35 on my l28et set up right now,bt I was loking into going with a different motor, like a 7m or a 1jz.
No I wouldn't do it again. I would even sell the drivetrain ready to swap. I only did it because I had a $400 wrecked MKIII and a 240Z without an engine. IMO a 7M isn't much better than a L28, only 200cc more. Longer stroke and doesn't flow much more if any. 1JZ is smaller so I wouldn't even consider it. 1J might make 50hp more at 20 psi if it was lucky. If you are looking at a motor swap it isn't because you have maxed the L28 out. If you had more torque I bet you wouldn't be looking. Go bigger and you'll be happier. 1U, VH, VQ turbo, LSx
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I like the VQ/Z32 adapter, can use a V6 truck trans and keep the shifter forward.
Drew,
Does the Z32 bellhousing need to be machined to take up the adapter width and does the adapter use dowel alignment?
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Hi all I have a question, has anyone try using a holset turbo on a 7mgte or a 1jz???
I haven't run a Holset but have an L28 and 7M and have run all kinds of turbos on both. If it spools good on a L28 it will spool better on a 7M. More cc's = better spool.
On another note. Having swapped a 7M I wouldn't do it again and 1JZ's don't make any more HP per psi and make less torque.
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Sorry, I didn't see the wideband post. It was even earlier here. As long as you don't run out of duty cycle and the afr is good and it isn't knocking bump it up. I wouldn't go above 15-16 psi, not to say you can't but I wouldn't on the stock turbo.
FWIW, when I had 550's my DC was well past 100% towards redline but my afr was still in the 12's so I ran it until I could got larger inj. I also ran 440's at maxed at 96% DC at redline for a few years on the stock ecu.
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15 x 9.5 Kodiak STXs, Yokohama a005s
Is this Dan? Are you running FA fronts too?
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You still never answered the wideband question so I assum you don't have one.
If you have Megasquirt how did you tune the afr? If you did manage without a wideband and it was tuned good check your datalogs and look at the injector duty cycle.
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To go low on the front you need to section it to keep from bottoming the spring hat on the top of the strut tube.
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The new HKS cams, seem to make good power as well. They are 264 duration, and 9.6mm Lift. Maybe once it gets a bit cooler here in Phoenix, I will get her on the dyno, and see if I can make my 750 RWHP figure .
I didn't know you were going with HKS cams or maybe you told me and I forgot:ugg:. I need to dyno my 71' before the next event, I'll let you before I go if you want to bring your car down too.
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Good tp know Clifton - was that with the same size turbine housing (.58) or the next size?
I ran an O trim/.69 on the L28 and I am back to running an O trim/.68 on the 7M ( was a P/.68).
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Looks great. We need some video.
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Ofcourse I don't have a unlimited budget and am more interested in economy and the nostalgic aspect. Anyone???
KA's are dirt cheap thanks to sr20 swapping nuts:mrgreen: My Frontier has 205k miles on it and runs perfect. If you are going to stay n/a more cc's = more torque= more fun in traffic and easier to drive. There's a reason Nissan used them in everything that was heavier than a Sentra.
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I'd like to get to 300hp eventually, but as a start I'd like to aim for 250hp, then once I hit that go up.
The first thing I would have done was up the boost to 12 psi. More if you have a wideband and it doesn't knock. That would easily get you 250-300 hp. I would rather spend $10 on a manual boost controller for an easy 250 hp than hundreds on nistune, Z31 ecu, electronic boost controller, ect just to try and make power with a little less boost. As long as it runs on pump gas, HP is all that maters to me.
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As far as I was aware, (till now that is), the only Domestic V-8 single plane cranks used in racing with production based blocks was a couple/few NASCAR teams using 180 degree cranks back in the mid to late ‘90’s, taking advantage of the exhaust wave tuning.
It may have been missed a few pages ago but Lotus used flat planes in the LT5 for road racing as there 3.5 turbo V8 wasn't up to the task. I don't know if the LT5, LT1, and 350 share the same basic design. I know they did the heads but I don't know about the block design.
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There's a big difference in price between GTR turbos and journal bearing turbos. On a Datsun budget I would save a buck and run your choice one and spend the rest on something else it needs (they all need something else:mrgreen:) I run a Precision turbo with a GT35R compressor and P trim, .58 hotside. It's journal bearing. If in the L28 power band it comes on fast and probably has more lag than a standard GT35R as the turbine wheel is a little larger.
Brad-man, I have run O trims on 7m's and L28's they come on plenty fast. I can't imagine wanting to run a smaller turbine unless it's for towing:burnout:.
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The ATL stuff is nice but if you are on a budget using a stock newer efi tank ( I used an 86-93 Supra) with a 255lph Walbro in-tank pump can be done for around $150 with pump. I have run less than 5 gallons and auto X'd without slosh.
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Ebay 240sx throttle body spacer?...
in Nissan L6 Forum
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I don't know what you're talking about. They sell them.
http://arizonazcar.com/inject.html