Clifton
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Posts posted by Clifton
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Has anyone ever found why exacly the 7m blows head gaskets??? Most turbo cars i worked on were fine after a decked block/head..arp head studs and felpro gasket...I wonder if a o-ring block would cure the 7m woes...anyway just asking..
A different head might cure it. Everyone I've had blow and everyone I've seen, has blown on the exhaust side. Never seen one go on the intake side.
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Torquing a stock type head gasket won't get you much. It will go too. I tried. It's a design flaw, not lack of torque. MLS is the only thing that will hold high boost and even then they still go. Most, NOT ALL, on Supramania and SF are 7M nutswingers that don't realize how bad the MKIII or 7M is. Not that it's horrible, just not the basis for a good performance but with enough money you can make anything fast. I would not do the swap again. Unless you get it complete with everything for under $500. There are so many better engines for just a little more that don't have the problems. Crazy long stroke, the heads don't flow that much either, a little more than a 2 valve L head. My stock long block L28 stock, made the same as my 7M with the same boost/ similar turbo and can rev an easy 500 rpm higher. I'm not trying to be negative, just honest on what I think about the 7M. I would sell mine in a second so I could do a VH45 if I could find a buyer.
With a/c my 73 weighs 2550lbs with 7M and r200. Not much more but a little more. It ran 13.0, 109 mph in the 1/4 with 9 psi on stock everything (intercooler, efi, afm, fuel pump, ect).
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I would go with the 30 series. May as well run the stock one over the 28. There is a guy running a 30 on an SR and is more than happy with the response. It is a track car though, not autoX. He says it comes on fast and never has lag. I understand you not wanting lag for AX, it sucks. I would look for dynos of similar sized engines with each turbo and see where the torque comes on at. It would give you a good idea of the boost curve.
As for 10 psi being 10 psi T3 or T4. A larger turbo doesn't have to have a larger compressor. Assuming one is matching the compressor wheel to the engine HP, it would be the same wheel T4 or not. If you want 400hp you need a wheel capable of 400 hp. So the compressor wheels would flow the same regardless of T3 or T4 flange. This leaves it only to the hot side. You can go to a stg 5 t3 and get close to a T4 P trim exducer but the inducer is still small. The T4 will has a larger turbine inducer giving more leverage. Even if you went on the small side ( O trim) the T4 wheel is the winner for hp. Less back pressure makes more power. It's hard to make 350+ rwhp with 15 psi on a T3 flanged turbo. Easy on a T4 with the same cold side. Less back pressure FTW.
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I use an Intercomp tire pyro. It's pretty fast. I even use it when BBQing as the cheapo digital meat temp gauges take so long.
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That's amazingly close. Do you have the dyno sheet you can post so we can see the afr? You said the 4bbl was not that great. Curious to know how far off it was while still making almost as much HP as a stock efi mani.
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Thanks for the advise.
So should use another way to paint it then.
What type of paint would you recommand to have a decent solid paint the would be hard enough to stay on those springs?
Hypercoil and Eibach, and I'm sure just about everyone else powder coats. VHT and Krylon makes good paint. VHT engine paint resists chemicals better than Duplicolor engine paint.
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Maybe if you were an F1 team it would matter. I would blast then acid dip and still not worry.
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Has anyone strapped a holset on a RB?
RB what? There would be a big difference in spool with more discplacement within the RB series.
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I ran Toy calipers with whatever pads were in them with a stock MC and was fine. I had the small piston Toys and I think I remember them about the same. You can figure out your swept area on the calipers here. http://www.wilwood.com/Products/001-Calipers/calipertech.asp
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I'm not crazy about the cast aluminum die and only 90* bend. I would spend a little more on this and then you can get different dies latter if you wanted.
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I'm not a drag racer but I know that thing makes crazy MPH for 2 bar on a 3.0
. Have you looked in the aero section on here? They tested an S30 with out wings and with, and with different ones and posted the lift, drag, ect.
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A little late but I was towing with the Landcruiser that is now sold and will be going back to towing with my reg cab 4 cyl Froniter. I've towed tandem axled trailers with it and with other 4cyl Nissan trucks in the past. It's not that bad. Last week I replaced both axles with one with brakes and put new 8 ply tires on it. The spare is the same lug as my truck so even less weight. Took over 350lbs off. It's just under 800 lbs for the trailer now. I'll be under 3000 loaded. Just keep enough tongue weight on it and avoid using OD if the TC doesn't lock up. I would rather be towing with an Odyssey than a Frontier.
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it's more like a backfire thru the turbo that when I apply throttle, that it boggs down and coughs, if I ease off,and it's ok - how touchy are the 81 pickups on the Crank angle sensor - thinking it's more of a timing issue
If it's backfiring through the intake/turbo and ONLY under load, it's too lean. If it's all the time it could be a valve timing issue but then you wouldn't be able to drive it.
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I can't say what they are but they are not Stance.
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Yes, you can spool a turbo with 10* air if the pressure is there. However, you would not be spooling as quickly as with 100* or 1000* air.
You sure about that? It's not a gas turbine. Just a turbine that needs a pressure drop accessed it.
Either way 500rwhp isn't going to happen with 18 psi unless it has a fairly large hotside. JeffP is running his turbo off the map to make what he is making and it isn't making 500 rwhp at 18 psi. Look what TimZ is using, GT42. If you want fast spool use a smaller turbo if you want big HP use a larger one. If you want both, toss the L28 and get something larger and have everything.
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It is my understanding from reading Maximum Boost and How to Tune and Modify EFI that the primary method of spooling a turbo is from the heat differential across the turbine and not so much the exhaust gas velocity.
You could spool a turbo with 10* air if the volume is there.
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A T4 housing has a larger inlet, so the airflow will be slower for a given volume, so the boost threshold will be higher.
I don't see how. The slightly larger flange volume and only flange volume will be filled faster than measurable and then it's just. If the rest of the mani, or collector match the T4 flange the volume isn't an increased just at the turbo flange. The air isn't going to be slower. You also need a volume of air to spool a turbo. The more you move across the turbine the better. A larger flange isn't the problem, well maybe for .001" second.
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If you can build boost slowly but can't punch it. It sounds like TPS/ accel. Is this stand alone? Did you check it with a analog meter or DVM?
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How is it super-drift???? Just because it has stretched tires it super drift?
Its actually a style call Bosozoku, and it has nothing to do with drifting.
It was popular it the late 80's on lowered mini trucks too. It is in the same category as 22" spinners and wire wheels.
for the Monte Carlo . I showed my wife the stretched tire. Being that this is a Z board, she said "shut up, that's not for real". -
For my MAP hose? I used the tubing that came with my boost gauge, but I'm worried about it too.
Ya, If you go to Mcmaster and look up the temp range for it compared to any rubber hose, you'll see why I wouldn't use it.
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Man, I wouldn't run vinyl tubing. You want this thing reliable. There's a reason NO car manufacturer uses it other than for windshield washer fluid. When it gets warm it will soften up. If you insist on it atleast run some rubber hose around the engine. You can get rubber cheap (alot cheaper than Autozone or Checker) at Ace hardware.
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Sounds like you've done your research.
Hello fellow members,My question to all is whether or not it is possible to supercharge a z32. I own a 1990 300zx 2+2 and just by looking at my engine I know I'm going to need a new intake manifold. I'm curious as to what companies make supercharger intakes for the z32 and which ones are recommended. I would also like any information as to what is a good supercharger to run and how much boost I could run. Correct me if I'm wrong but its my understanding that the non-turbos come with forged internals like the twin turbos and if they don't can I get away without replaing the internals?
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I find it interesting that even the most insane Jeep 4.0L stroked and bored to 5.0L only produces around 300 horsepower (well, they can have almost 400ft lbs of torque though).
If the heads flowed worth an S it would be alot higher. There's a reason people do LS, JZ, ect swaps and not Jeep 6 swaps:biggrin:
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Try Nico. There's a few on there. http://forums.nicoclub.com/zeroforum?id=193
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EDIS V MSD 6a with dizzy
in MegaSquirt
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I think I'm done with SDS. I already have a good coil and MSD 6a. It would be easier to keep it and go with a 83' dizzy with MS. I wouldn't have to pull the damper and mod it. Any reason not to keep this over the edis/ wastespark? I know it works good as I run it on another car but I have not seen any posts on comparing the two on MS.