Clifton
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Posts posted by Clifton
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Looks good. Does it hook up now?
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I think you have the thermostat in upside down.
This would be my guess too. Is the larger copper part on the bottom? If so I would run it without one and run it again.
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Sounds like an alternator but even without one and a good battery it should run longer than 7 minutes. Do you have a voltmeter (multimeter)?
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Ahhh. I'm all for different but it needs to be atleast tasteful. I guess it's no worse than spinners though.
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Hopefully a mod won't see this as a political topic.
You fit this. I think an S30 Z is as historic as any other car of the last 25 years.
[(3) A vehicle which was manufactured after 1922, is at least 25 years old, and is of historic interest.I know Az is different than Ca but there law is similar. I just went in with collector car insurance and came out with collector/classic registration and will never have to go through emissions again. Collector/classic insurance is alot cheaper too.
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I'm putting in a new pressure plate now. If it works I'll be there. Andy said he wants to go too.
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What time is everyone planning on going to the Pavillions? I'm busy mid day but can come out towards the evening.
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The slave only has one seal. If it leaks enough to loose pressure you'll see it on the ground. Sounds more like a clutch master.I know Autozone sells slave seal kits. I just got one, it was around $8.
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You can kinda see the scribe makrks, I just used the calipers against the side of the pulley. The bhj timing marks on mine are far from accurate. I scribed a new mark on the belt pulley.
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Ad claims .2-.5psi pressure drop @15psi which is all i would be running so i couldnt imagine it could be that bad.
This could be true assuming they tested which I doubt. They also don't say at what cfm the results are at, to just say 15 psi is very misleading. A 250 hp engine running 15 psi doesn't use nearly as much air as a 600 hp engine running 15 psi.
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I think something like this would be your best option
http://
This one is horrible. The core size looks big but it is split and a dual pass. It would have a pretty high pressure drop compared to a single pass of the same size.
This would have the least pressure drop. I would of run one if they were 4" thick. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1-Side-Turbo-Intercooler-Grand-National-GN-Mustang_W0QQitemZ370024566558QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item370024566558
I run a 24x12x4, car doesn't get hot when it's over 100* and the a/c is on.
Bigger is better as far as cooling.
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Measure a lobe. It would be the fastest way to know if the lift was changed.
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Well i might need a bigger Turbo however i would like a flat curve, what you describe would make more top end and less lag. Ill keep you guys updated! this weekend ill header wrap the spaghetti incident.
The SC will give you the bottom end torque. If the hotside on the turbo is small enough to make boost at 1500, it will kill the top end with excessive back pressure, torque would fall off sooner if it's being choked, plus you are already using a little power to drive the sc. Bob Norwood did one with a 1mz (I think) Toyota engine, it was a few years back (maybe 5) but it was in Turbo magazine. They had dyno graphs too. I'm not trying to down your project, it's pretty cool.
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Pretty cool on a Z. That header is really nice too.
I saw a supercharged/ turboed WRX a few years ago. He ran a pretty big turbo (for a 2.0) and used a positive displacement SC to make boost before the turbo came on which for that would be atleast 5K. If I remember right, the turbo was a T66 or 67.
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If the tires are for autoX only, I would go with V710's or A6's. I would look at tire sizes and prices before deciding on a wheel. Tire rack has both. I wouldn't run a street tire (treadwear above 140) for autoX. I wouldn't even do it on a weekend Z.
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I mounted them to the back. I'll post a few pics later.
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I run the BHJ single pulley ( Rebello one) with SDS magnets. I have the street one, larger pulley. There was no problem mounting them and getting the trigger in there as it's about 5" in diameter.
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I've seen them on 73's and 74's. 74's had the larger ex valves.
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plus I think if you run edis you can't run launch control or a soft rev limiter.
You are correct, no launch control w edis. If you have MS control 3 coils you need to add two more drivers but it isn't too hard.
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So that is to say that they currently have the code to use the toyota trigger?
What I would like to do is run the stock cam sensor, and run the stock coil packs, driven by MSII-E
Even if you went edis you could use the 7m coils, but they do have a code for Toyota. There's two triggers and I already went edis so I didn't look into it too much.
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Clifton, how are you triggering MSII? Are you firing the stock coil packs, and did you need to solder in drivers to do it?
Edis/36-1 wheel. When I did it they didn't have the code to use the Toyota trigger. If you go edis use a n/a pulley, they have two threaded hole on the front that are flush and would make the pulley bolt on. The gte pulley is a little different and the holes sit in alot deeper. I had to have the front of my pulley machined and then press the wheel on.
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Of coarse a turbo SR would have more torque but n/a too n/a the FC is a much better engine.
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I owned a 2001 s2000. Anyway...no torque.
Aside from all this, the best 4 cyl option I'd say is a sr engine imho.
-OM
An SR20de has less torque (30ft/lbs less) than a F20c
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MMmm ceramic.
Do you think it's possible to redrill the stock manifold for a T4 flange?
Mario
It's been a long time since I did this but I don't think there is room. The flanges are cheap though and having the flange pushes it out a little more. Plus you need to weld a wastegate out let some where on there too.
Got the pics of the 17x10, 315 wide setup
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
If you are breaking tires loose with 305 ft/lbs, it's the compound. Try something softer ( R compound).