Clifton
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Posts posted by Clifton
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I would get the engine in first and see what kind of room you really have.
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Looks great Gary, you guys do awsome work.
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The lack of thickness won't be a problem. I used aluminum tube to hold the threaded sleeve up on my 71' after I ground off the weld bead. I spaced it up off the bottom at the knuckle. Haven't had any problems.
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5zigen
F 17x8 235's
R 17x9 275's
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he had a machine shop he knows make them for him
Not so. I know what they are and I think he posted what they are.
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I ran a welded diff in my truck for about a year before buying a locker. No problems in the rain. Maybe if I was 80 and decreped it would have been too much. I run one in my 71' 240 but it is coming out for a lsd. It does clunk on tight parking lot type turns but when rolling is fine other than a little extra push.
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ya im going to be running an electromotive lt-8 ems tuned with my wb02, msd 6btm cdi with electronic dizzy, ported stock turbo manifold and bead blasted to mirror shine almost, street/track porting nothing too crazy, cc'ed to 3.4cc's larger than stock i think 48cc's, ported n42 intake with 60mm tb, 42lb/hr inj., 24x12x2 intercooler, tuliped and swirl polished ss valves, 280/270 turbo grind cam, lightened the flywheel quite a bit, arp studs throughout, weakest link is the stock dished pistons. i was planning on running 13psi or so until i could afford to have some new one made. but all this still prob wont spin that big ass turbo huh? it says here that its good for 2.0-8.0l engines but i dunno if thats anything to go by or not http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/catelog/Turbochargers/GT42/GT4294_731376_1.htm
Yes you can run a gt42 on a 2l or a 2.8 liter engine but running a turbo that can flow enough air for 800 hp also has to exit enough air for 800 hp. The mods you've listed are good for 400-450. Why run such a large turbo if you don't need it for your power level? 2" thick IC and 42lb/hr inj are on the small side, Lt-8 is Microtec not Electromotive. Why run an MSD BTM with standalone? I would research a little more. Beadblasting your manifold wouldn't even be on my list. I'm not trying to flame just don't understand. A turbo that can make 800 won't make it unless the boost is there. For you to get out of it what it can do you'll need race gas and boost and expect a not so street friendly powermand. I would look at a gt4088. You can get smaller hotssides from limit engineering. Alot of 3l guys run these and they come on alot faster than 42's.
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Ya, no way you will have full boost by 3800. You'll be lucky to get 1 psi by then. Doesn't matter what hotside a/r you put on it. That's a huge jump from a T3/4. Running a turbo that large really is wasted on a small engine unless you are looking to run 30+ psi and have it come on way up top. Not saying it won't work but you won't really gain anything from such a large turbo with low boost other than lag.
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The BBB and shipper won't get anything done, assuming he is even a member of the BBB and most small companies aren't especially ones that would send someone a part in that condition.
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I feel you anger. I would call your credit card company, or debit card if it backed by Visa or MC. They are much easier to deal with. I've had to do it twice due to businesses that had a hard time crediting me back and another that just couldn't ship and wouldn't refund me. The credit card company will side with you, especially if you have pics. They'll ask for dates on when you talked to them and sent them mail so have that ready. Don't let it go past 90 days either or you'll be out of luck.
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Look at what size tires you want to run before getting the wheels. If you want a 315 in the rear, a 10.5 would be the minimum. 335 would need more.
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I had this happen on an L28. I wasn't running a damped pulley though. It trashed the crank and flywheel. I had it happen on my 7m too. On this the crank pulley also came loose and I think that led to the flywheel problem. I was revving it 1k higher than stock (7600), might be the reason?. It ruined the crank, flywheel, and crank pulley. When I removed the flywheel, the bolts were tight but the flywheel wobbled on there enough to create high and low spots, from the heat. I always use locktight red too. I had used an impact on these to install. When I put it back together I checked to see what I was really torquing them to. Around 30lbs tighter than they should be, so they were definitely tight enough. I droped my rev limiter to 7200, I hope it solve my problems.
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They are wheels, not rims. Prime used to make some wide 15" diameter wheels that fit Z's. Look just like those.
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For a sump on the tank to work good it needs to have the fuel return line emptying into it to keep it full on turns. The sump also needs higher sides to keep the fuel from sloshing out and a an inlet that traps it, one that starts on say the right and snakes around to the left.
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I don't know how he did his but I tacked everything and then after I welded one side of the tab I would dunk it, dry it and do the next.
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Are you running adapters or spacers? The wheels have a dual patern. Is the other patern 4x114.3? If so, you can get pretty long studs from napa that will fit so you can just run a regular spacer.
Looks like you can move it in another 1/2". The spring collar with an 8" should be above the high spot on the tire so the clearance issue is just the strut tube, atleast for me it is.
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I have some 8" Eibachs. I'll pm you.
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If the boost are not torn and there is no play, why change them?
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why would it be horrible??
LOADS of torque!!!
ok its heavy.. and big.. but other than that?
For the last two reasons you put.
It's not much larger, cc wise than an L, They don't make much power for there displacement, they don't rev, and they are heavy. Perfect for a Jeep though. Torque come from displacement, or boost. For n/a, you would be better off with an LS1 or even an regular 350.
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It's a horrible idea for a Z.
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I believe me and Garret had the same problem happen to us. After SEZ I couldn't shift into 4th at high rpms under full load (26psi). I have to kinda wait and then shift if that makes any sense.
That's the same exact thing that happend on two R154's on me. How long did it take them to get that way?
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A 245 is kinda wide on a 7.5". Haven't seen a 245-50, just 40 and 45's. You should really look for an 8 for that width.
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I would figure ou thow much boost you want to run. Lets say it's 15-17 psi. With a stock T3 or T3/4 with a stock T3 turbine you will be making a little over 250 rwhp. With a larger T3/4 or full T4 you can be making 350rwhp.
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I know Clifton has issues with the tire rubbing the inner fenderwell, but I guess he figures it's not bad enough to worry about.
I only have rub issues with MT DR's on big dips. With the V700's or 555R's it's ok. To get a regular 275 on a 9 to fit isn't hard but the offset has to be within 3mm of perfect. I think people are having problems because they are off 5-10mm one way or the other.
Whos got a Welded Rear Differential?
in Drivetrain
Posted
It's not a bad idea to weld the spiders to the carrier too. Lemans cars don't have too many tighr turns. That's were a welded diff is the worst. Every track in Az has atleast one turn that would kill me.