Clifton
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Posts posted by Clifton
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Remove the plastic panel under the dash. The box is pretty easy to see. It's about half the size of an ecu. Open it up and look closely at the connections coming in to it.
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There's a box under the dash, can't remember what it says (power supply ?). Anyway it is for the dash. Mine had a bad solder joint on atleast one connection. It was pretty obvious just by looking at it once I opened it. I resoldered the ugly ones and it worked fine till I sold it 2 years later.
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Yes, you are certainly correct, I am running lean there. I'm still running the same fuel map that I just stole from someone else to get the car running. I never bothered to tune the rest of the map because it was just hitting that wall really fast anyways, so I'm not under WOT very much anymore .
From what I saw TPS was 100. Save the file you have (file, save as) and just make a new one, try it, if it doesn't work just open the previous one and burn to ecu. I have atleast 100 maps from saving the previous when I change anything.
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If there is enough noise on the VR signal, then the EDIS module will not fire the coil. The VR signal has a very low amplitude, so any noise that couples into it can have a big effect.
Do you think he would have noise without anything running though? I don't know, just assuming there wouldn't be. I know there would be some if it was firing.
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You should still be able to get a spark without sheilding. I would check power at the plugs. Make sure your have power while cranking, not just with the key on.
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I've never tried tunning with a narrow band but looking at your log you look really lean when the problem occurs based on the .4-.5 volts. That would put you in the 14-15:1 range (guessing based on voltage), way too lean for WOT. Your duty cycle also seems low, but I'm not used to seeing duty cycle on n/a motors with larger injectors. I don't know what your fuel map looks like but I would save it and make another one and add 5 or 10 to it above 80 kpa and see if your O2 number go up.
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You can check the O2 voltage. They read between 0-1v. Stoich is .45v. I don't have first hand with 280ZX efi but a few Toyotas. I know that even without the O2 connected the car will run, just a little rich. If yours stall cold, the O2 is not the problem. The ecu won't recognized the signal until it heats up. If it's a single wire O2 it will take longer than 3 and 4 wire O2's.
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Dou you have it in excel and about what line it occurs on?
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I don't think this happens unless you are running MSII and the flyback but I and others get an occassional PW spike. It happens so fast sometimes it doesn't show on the log but when it does it is like 32ms, very noticable. Anyway, when it happens at idle it kills it.
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One of the big problems with ebay turbos is you don't really know what you are getting. The SSautochrome "T70" uses a 60.5 mm inducer. Far from the 70mm wheel a real T70 uses. Another crook on there sells the same turbo as a GT35R. Same turbo with the little badge removed.
I can't comment on there reliablitly, only the deception.
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All comments and complaints are welcome as i know we all love to flame:icon54:
Get a wideband and log your runs/ drives and tune it from there. It doesn't get any easier. You'll always have the wideband for tuning later. I wouldn't pay someone else for somehting you can do just as easily.
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It has more to do than just 60 a/r on the cold side. A Z turbo uses a 60 trim, just happens to be a 60 a/r too even though the 2 aren't related. You can have a .55 a/r with a wheel that will flow twice what a 60 trim Z turbo flows. As for what would work on your V8. 2 60 trim T3's isn't nearly enough for the volume you plan. You need to figure out the boost you really intend to run and the amount of air it will use and then look at the flow and pressure ratio of the turbo/turbos. I wouldn't go by what an ebay add says of the turbo. Find out what it is and look at the map of it, if it's a Garrett turbo it will be easy to find.
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93', turboed 3VZ, R151, dual cases.
When it was a long wheelbase daily driver.
Shorter wheelbase
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was that on the 7M or the L28ET? what air temps was that at also?
7M. With the stock ecu I've done it in the mid 80's. With MS so far 70's is the warmest it's been. In the summer when it's 100-110* I drop it back to 24-25 psi. With more octane it will wasily do more.
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That pump is almost twice what they can be had for. That kit looks good but the problem is, the Z tank sits against the bottom of the car. If you used that kit the fittings would keep it from sitting flat under there. That's why I lowered mine where the pump openeing is. If welding is out of the question I would run a surge tank with 2 pumps or a 75-76 tank. 240 tanks with efi are terrible in hard turns with less than 1/2 tank. There is just a seperator between left and right, fine for carbs but not for efi.
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35 PSI usually go with motors that cost 15K+.... but good luck
Not always. I run 30 psi in the winter every time it's driven. Stock pistons and rods. It has seen more but I didn't have the fuel (pump) to leave it there.
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I don't know why an insurance guy would ask what mods you did, does he do thios with all cutomers? Never heard of such a thing. I wouldn't tell him.
You can do a baffle and and intank fuel pump pretty easy. Walbro 255 pumps are around $100 and good for 5oo rwhp easy. You need a donor efi tank. Z31 and MKIII Supra ones work good. I used a MKIII tank. Zero fuel pick up problems even when running low and cornering as the retun is dumped into the baffle.
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That's a pretty big IC. Should get the job done.
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And to say "this is the only swap that makes common sense" shows how little you know about motors. There's TONS of motors out there, and you sound like the person that only knows of the popular ones.
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The tt well you can shoot for about 450ish whp before you would need to upgrade the internals. The sr is alot more affordable considering I personally don't have TT money to dump in my car. The TT is a great engine and has tons of potential but I chose the cheap route.
Getting over 450 hp from a tt long block is easy and nowhere near the limit of the stock internals. It's not just the HP though a 3.0 will have about 30% more torque at the same hp level. A quick ebay search and the vg30dett was cheaper by a few $100.
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Some reasons for my swap other then familiarity is the gas milage and weight.
With nice airflow bolt ons and some good at home rom burning and tuning, i can get about 27 to 39 mpg on the street. This is exciting to me. My Z is my daily, as well as my toy, and i will have 2 roms for the ECU, one that is set as economical(basically de-tuning), and one that is set to race(squeezing out lost power). Plus, it is not very hard to get 300hp out of an Sr.
No way you'll be getting 27-39 on the street. Maybe 27 cruising on the highway at 65. I wouldn't let a few bucks in gas be one of the reasons behind a motor swap unless it was an econo car. By de tune, do you mean less timing, which in turn would give even less mileage. To me drivabilty is a big factor. It is also not just hp that makes a car fun to drive and fast. Torque is just as important and off boost torque even more important on a daily driver. I know alot of people may think I'm being hard but giving up 33% of discplacement for less power and torque (mod for mod) and saving 100 or so lbs on a street car is beyond my understanding. When you are all done I think you'll be happy as long as you never drive a Z32 turbo with a vg at the same boost you are running.
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I've used it before on an efi car and didn't have any problems so I know it works. I just didn't know if it should be used on an efi car running up to 80 psi through it. I also know it's annealed and it is definitely very flexable. Should be here today or tomarrow.
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I didn't need to trim the collar until I went to the V700's. With Nitto Dr's (275's) it was close but cleared. You shouldn't have a problem on a 280. The only place you will probably have to trim is the sleeve. A 17" wheel is real close, an 18" wheel wouldn't require a trim with the same offset, trimming it is easy though. A 16" wheel would need a different offset moving it out some and into the outer fender. The pic of my finger on the tire is where the tire rubbed the sleeve, shouldn't on a 280. Also you can see were the tire rubs a little on the inner fender. This is only when I crank in the camber for autox. It's really tight in there.
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Is power getting to the motor? I know Z31's motors have a bonded rubber between the drive and driven part. They unbond over time. If it's the motors they probably aren't cheap. You can weld a flat washer to them and bypass the rubber part. That's what I did.
What timing for 15 psi
in Turbo / Supercharger
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I run 26* at 15 psi, intercooled though.