Clifton
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Posts posted by Clifton
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Although I'm not running an Arizona Z Car flywheel I have seen them and it looks about the same thickness as my HKS one.
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Thev'e been around for years. There's another place that even makes them left hand drive. Saw one at SEMA. The R32 and R33's are really nice but a little on the heavy side compared to a 240.
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The Holley pump is made by Walbro. As are alot of other pumps. You could run their 155 or what ever the smaller one is. If you are going to need the extra fuel of the 255l/hr one there is really no way around it. The Big Walbro does move alot of fuel and the pressure is a little high on mine at idle too but I need the volume.
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Dose yours initially spike and then drop down to the setting?
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The spring applies more pressure to hold the wastegte shut until the desired opening pressure. If you add another 10 lb of tension to a 7 lb wastegate you have a 17 lb wastegate. With the spring you don't need to use the more expensive, less reliable MBC. If it was still mine I would send it to you to try.
I got my new stiffer WG spring in yesterday Now I can hold 20 psi to redline
It was supposed to be a 15 psi spring but is around 18. -
How would I install an extra spring on the stock WG actuator???
Ok I went to my friends and go a pic of it. I sold him my extra 7M setup for his Z. I ran this at 17 PSI' date=' wastegate diaphram is 7 psi like the Nissan one. On Nissan turbos there is enough room to hook the spring around the wastegate bracket. This is a Toyota turbo though and there isn't the room so I welded on a nut on the rod. It held all the way to redline never falling off or spiking. Cost about $5 and is adjustable from stock boost to whatever it takes to put a hole in a piston
[img']http://www.geocities.com/clifton_ragland/wastegate.jpg[/img]
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A turbo manifold from a 280ZX turbo. If you run richer than you need to you will loose power. Yes you can run 10:1 in order to run a few psi more but you will make more power running it leaner with less boost. To say they don't provide fuel evenly is arguable without hard data to back it up.
You guys are talking about using a turbo manifold and intake from what exactly? Also if you running a four barrel carb with a blow through style turbo, the only thing the carb needs to do is provide fuel right? So why not use run rich through the carb to help prevent detonation. Someone was saying that the 4bbl carbs don't provide fuel evenly, but should that matter considering the air is being forced through it? One more question with the 4bbl intake manifold can you use any 4bbl card at all? -
The first turbo car I had a ride in was a 240Z in 90' with a blow through 4 barrel. It was fast enough to make me forget about the tripple carbs/cam/pistons I was saving for. I was turbo'd a few months later. He used a Holley blue pump and regulator running boost to the vent port on it. Run a Holley not a Carter, the accel pump is not covered by the plenum/bonet and will spray a little gas under boost
. You could still run the stock turbo exhaust manifold and turbo but would have to get a real 4 barrel intake manifold, not one of the bolt on to the SU adapter ones, they won't clear the turbo. -
How would I install an extra spring on the stock WG actuator???
I sold the last turbo I had with it on. I will find something and kinda hold it up to a turbo and get a pic to show.
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the MBC has a small hole (.020" I believe) drilled into the outlet side of the valve to bleed off some pressure there' date=' and too keep the valve from being held open between shifts. I dunno if that's what you mean.
I dont understand what bleeding off any more of the pressure there would accomplish, other than causing it to open at a slightly higher boost (since you're bleeding some of the boost signal off), and skewing my a/f ratios ever so slightly
[/quote']
The .020" hole is what I was using the bleeder for.
Subliminal
extra spring
for wategate
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You are contemplating an SR20 swap and the muffler sound is what may be the determining factor on if this will happen or not ? Are you pulling our leg?
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Are you bleeding off a little pressure between the MBC and wastegate? I used an adjustable bleeder to let a little out.
As far as lag, either way should be the same as the wastegate is held shut on it's own till atleast 7psi. On mine I came off the turbo as it's closer. Pressure is pressure. On integral wastegates you'll have more a more accurate setting by running an extra spring to hold the wastegate shut. I have never had any boost creep or bleed down using that method but now that I have the external with an 8 psi spring and the MBC it's become an issue for me too at higher boost as the RPMs rise. As the RPMs go up there is more back pressure working against the spring. I'm still waiting for the 15 psi spring to come in
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With coil-overs easily.
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That is what I'm wondering. I think 35lb injectors are 420cc' date=' and bigger than stock. I was wondering if the stock fuel pump has enough volume to be able to handle the bigger injectors and the size 6 hoses I'm putting on (stock is size 4).[/quote']
35lb is about 380cc. I run -6 hose on my L28 car with out any problems and 3/8" on the 7M car. I was running 2 stock pumps on the L28 car before going after market. If you already have the pump try it. I ran a cheapo pressure guauge Teed into the feed line and ran it under my wiper blade to check pressure at max boost/RPM. You'll know in a second if it's not enough volume.
I would do as Bastaad said and run it of the battery w/ a relay. I had a 2 volt drop before doing it to mine.
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Custom intake on the bottom l engine hey?
No throttle body, must be a diesel.
Alot of pics. Almost like I took a trip there, pretty cool.
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I did a search and found like 34 pages worth of posts.
What would be the best regulator to run with 35lb injectors and the Megasquirt ECU? Will I need a new fuel pump for the size "6" hoses?
Injector size doesn't matter, it's the fuel pump volume. I use a stock 280 ZXT with a Walbro 255l/h and I use it with a Paxton kamikazie pump too.
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You can fit both with out the flares, unless you just want flares. You can swap to 5 lug for under $500.
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Or the GT30R, GT30, or GT35R
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/jsp/downloads.jsp
They list them by displacement too.
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I wouldn't even consider the RB20. The SR20 is so much lighter and an extra psi will make the same HP. My choices from 1st to last.
1 VQ35 with turbo
2 2JZ, was that a choice
3 RB26
VQ35's are really light too. 2 people can easily pick up a complete long block.
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Its still to small.
I second that.
It seems like alot of people on this board seem to be happy running a turbo that is too small to get the job done. Don't know what they are afraid of.
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The specs on the turbo I ran on the 2.4l were T3 60 trim compressor(stock 280ZX). and had a chrysler .48 turbine housing. It spooled more than fast enough. Knowing the a smaller a/r chokes and hinders top end I swapped the .63 housing on. It slowed it a little but not much. This guy may know his stuff with trims and maps but I would question his matching on this application. If you are looking 20-22 psi you are looking to make a bit of power, easily 350-400 depending on turbo. With something small you may struggle to reach 300 whp and probably not on pump gas.
I don't know what you mean by 60 a/r T4 exhaust house. Are you refering to the compressor housing? Do you know what wheel he was going to use on the compressro? I am biased to larger, a little laggier turbos for max power. Zcarsmakesmyheadhurt on this board does alot of
turbos. He has a shop. He might have some first hand experience with different set ups and could give a little more help.
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.48 OMG
Is it a L28D? Why do you want so much spool at revs that the car will rarely be in? Have you driven the car with the .63? Porsche may have went down on there a/r's, I don't know, but there is no way they were even as low as a .63 to begin with. I did run a .48 on a 2.4l 4x4 Nissan hardbody and ended up swapping to a .63. You will have alot more back pressure at cruise and under boost, lowering your overall power. -
Scottie. I've been running 20psi on 93 pump for almost a year now I blew the HG on the new turbo, which is slightly bigger. I just didnt add enough fuel as I thought I did.
With all that detonation I hope you didn't break a ring land too. What kind of AFR are you running? if you are on the edge of knock at 12:1 and think running a little richer to avoid knock is safe, it's not. In the summer I can only run 16 psi regardless if it's 11:1 or 12.5:1. Also what did you upgrade to? The stock T3 is already 60 trim, did you go T4.
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congrats clifton wow! any track times? I always like that swap or even the newer supra jz's because i wish we could keep it nissan but there are more available than rb's what kind of fabrication did you to mount engine trans? watch out for those headgaskets on those 7mgte kaboom
btw on your road racer z which intercooler are you using from the supra im asking this because a fellow zedder gave me his TT supra IC because he upraded to a bigger spearco unit. he was running 19 psi wit no problems on it. what do you think of it? whats the pressure drop and flow of those units?
I run a MKIII intercooler on both cars. I will eventually get an Ebay 12x24x3" one though.
It was supposed to be a 15 psi spring but is around 18.
. You could still run the stock turbo exhaust manifold and turbo but would have to get a real 4 barrel intake manifold, not one of the bolt on to the SU adapter ones, they won't clear the turbo.
I blew the HG on the new turbo, which is slightly bigger. I just didnt add enough fuel as I thought I did.
Do you like the Skyline or it's engine?
in 6 Cylinder Z Forums
Posted
The turbo needed to make 600 let alone 800 hp will have lag on a 3.0 motor regardless of if it's a 2JZ or VG30. If it didn't it would have to run a small hot side killing it's top end, and then the fast spool with hte big turbo would have serious surge issues.
Here's a big HP VG30D.