Clifton
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Posts posted by Clifton
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1. adjust the afm
2. some how give the pump less power' date=' like 10v or something(like hook up the stock fuel pump computer to the pump, right now i have the pump hooked up to 12v from the bat
3. get some kind kind of valve and put it on the fuel line(tryed it but maybe i should try it again)
4. put about 5 fuel filters in the line to restrict flow( i am very desperate so help me please[/quote']
1. If you didn't adjust the AFM to cause it not to start, that's not your problem.
2. The pump needs battery voltage, most run it off a relay.
3.Valve on fuel line?
4.you dob't want to restrict flow, it will only hurt you at higher rpm. Your fuel pressure regulator should control fuel pressure.
Are you sure it's rich?
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You sure it's not an R230? http://www.arizonazcar.com/cars has R230 mustache bars. They only have the R200 listed though.
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We set one in a 240. You can get the pan behind the cross member but the4 left head will be right up against the firewall. We also sat it on the cross member but it is a little tall for that. Making a new cross member clearance for the oil pan would be best. Those are light motors. 2 of us picked it up and got it in there with out a lift
, can't do that with an L. It didn't have manifolds though. -
A 275 will fit inside the fender. A 245 is too wide for a 7" wheel.
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I ordered some from AIM. 1.75" in the front and 1.5" for the rear. With a 17x7" 38mm offset and a 225/45/17 they flushed out perfect. I did have to trim the driver side fender though. I didn't want a gap between the tires and fender.
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Electric gauges require a pressure sensor which rasies the cost. I've never had a problem with there mechanical gauges.
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Looks nice' date=' just one question. What are you using for the emergency brake?
Dale[/quote']
I'm using the line lock they came with for a parking brake. I wouldn't count on a parking brake in an emergency situation. If for some reason I ever have a brake failure I have the seatbelt
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As long as the intercooler is aluminum and not SS I wouldn't worry to much. A 2-2.5" diameter pipe isn't going to disapate to much heat. The charge air is moving to fast for it to benifit from it. I used mild steel, it is thin wall so it's fairly light and is easier to weld than aluminum.
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I just finished a small web page. I did a write up on both. I still need to get better pics of the tires as they look smaller than they are in the pics I took. They look wider in person.
http://www.geocities.com/clifton_ragland/Brakes.html
http://www.geocities.com/clifton_ragland/Tires.html
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but wouldn't toe-in cause more of this problem than toe-out?
You want toe-out for high speed stability' date=' and toe-in for faster turn in response. A squirrely car would be 'turning in' when following road imperfections and such.[/quote']
Close but you got it backword.
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A junk yard motor got me over 400rwhp
. If you are looking to run 25 psi with race gas I would definetly get a turbo capable of flowing what you need 61mm or larger and atleast 550cc or larger injectors. Some of those intercoolers say 3" thick but the core is actually a litle thinner. I've seen a few bar and plate ones on Ebay that were 3" thick though. -
Sounds toed out. Setting toe is easy with 2 flat boards or other flat surfaces.
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Fix your rear hatch seal.
Dale
What he said. Also there are 2 plugs in the hatch and the inner hatch pannel that need to be air tight or it will still get in.
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The reason I wanted the adapters was for a 9" wheel in the back.... is this possible with the spacers? If not it's useless to me, and custom wheels will have to be made.
You would have to run a 4 to 5 lug adapter and thinnest I could find was still too thick (2") to run even a 35 MM offset wheel. I redrilled my rear stubs and drums. With a 35mm offset 9" wheel a 1/2" spacer would be perfect to fit a 275 tire. You could run a Mustang wheel with a 26mm or so offset but the fronts are as wide as the rears in the 17"'s, atleast what I was finding. I only wanted/needed 8's in the front. I don't know if you can redrill the rears on a 280ZX but it is cheaper than getting custom wheels.
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I'm making about what you plan on and am running 1.5" adapters on the rear, atleast I was until last week. I'm running a T58. You will only be able to run a 7" wheel. I have zero traction in 1st and 2nd gear, even with the boost turned downed to 16 psi for the hell like AZ summer. In the winterat 18-19 psi I have 3rd gear traction issues. It's fun at times but annoying when you want traction and it's not there. In a week I'll have 9"s on with 275's
. So yes they can handle the strain but the tires will not, not until you get into atleast 3rd gear. If you are serrious about your power I wounldn't run the 7's. -
The rear supsension on Z31's is about as bad as it gets. There is a guy in AZ that put a complete rear Z32 rear suspension onto a Z31. pretty much bolted on. I don't know if he posts on here though. He said the track was a little wider than the Z31. He was still using Z31 front though. 240SX rear suspension is very similar, I don't know if the mounting is the same but it would be a cheaper swap.
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You would be no were near 90% at idle. Maybe 7 psi at redline. Shouldn't be more than 3% at idle even with the small stock injectors. The cooler the air the more resistant to detonation. Timing might also be retarded a little more when cold, no sure though. Are you intercooled? Do you pick up fresh in front of the core support?
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1. My target hp was' date=' still is, and will be, 250hp to the wheels... nothing more.
6. I think 370's are overkill if you're not upgrading from the stock turbo... Unless you're one of those guys who's severly overtaxing the stock turbo, running it way out of it's efficiency range and sending it to an early grave, the stock injectors CAN be made to compensate for whatever power you could reasonably extract from the stock turbo.
Clifton - I just dynoed two days ago. Unfortunately, the O2 readings were so badly lean, so low in the rev range, and even at just above stock boost (8psi) that I'm left wondering if there wasn't either some kind of equipment malfunction or user error. BUT, I will say, that when I was running 10 psi unintercooled, and dynoed, the A/F ratio had just started to run lean at 4500rpm or so, and now I've not only upped the boost but increased oxygen content per volume by intercooling the air... I can only assume it's leaned out a bit. However, even at 14psi on that same dyno, with a/f ratios off the chart (leaner than 18:1) there was not the slightest sign of detonation or really any clue at all in the power curve that something was up... again leading me to believe his wideband was on the fritz. And yes, I have spent a lot of money on dyno time with this car, and yes, whatever method I do finally choose to increase fuel supply, I will get back to the dyno ASAP to get it tuned, no doubt. Actually, having spent enough on dyno time by now to have fully covered the cost of my own wideband, this may just be my next purchase after fuel.[/quote']
250HP to the wheels on the stock T3 is at the end of the map. Low effeciency and alot of extra heat. If you are using the dyno just to tune I would seriously look at a wideband. The intial cost is more than an hour on the dyno(in Az) but you can use it everyday and sell it for almost what you paid for it. I would have to have lived at a dyno to get what I have got out of mine. I feel like a spokes person for them
. Once you get it right make a pull and get your hp results, but tunning on a dyno is to expensive unless it's not streetable. http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/
http://www.dsmtuners.com/parts/product_info.php?cPath=3_126&products_id=779
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With out a wide band O2 how do you know you need to increase the fuel pressure? Your a/f's might not be far off, or maybe they are. It's impossible to get them were you want them with out a dyno or wide band. Tunning on a dyno gets expensive.
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cool... so does any one know where I can purchase just a better flowing wheel for a garrett .60 compressor? i have an s trim right now.
You will need to use the correct compressor housing and backplate too if the exducer is larger. Don't know how much power you are looking to make but the stock T3 turbine wheel is a power limiter too.
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I've done it and never had problems with the turbo. Same goes for rebuilding them. Each part is balance. I know Turbonetics balances theres as an assembly and they mark each part so they can be lined up on assembly.
Clifton
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L28ET is very weldable with MIG. I have some pics on my link of mine with a T4 flange and external wastegate.
Do you know which one of JohnC's recommended method's would be preferred?
I used ER70S-6. There are pics of the 3 I've done, 3VZE Truck, 7MGTE Z and L28 Z scattered in my Yahoo folder.
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L28ET is very weldable with MIG. I have some pics on my link of mine with a T4 flange and external wastegate.
, can't do that with an L. It didn't have manifolds though.
moe fuel help
in Turbo / Supercharger
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You should have 80 psi coming from the pump. The fuel pressure regulator will bleed off extra fuel back to the tank to lower the pressure. Did you install this motor?