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Clifton

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Posts posted by Clifton

    Do you believe this claim??

    in Turbo / Supercharger

    Posted

    I wasn't trying to offend you. Just trying to help you see the light :D . 28 lb/min is around 280hp at the crank. That maybe 18 psi on a 60 tirm T3 but 18 psi on a 60-1 or larger would gain you over 100 hp. I didn't think you were trying to make 450 on that turbo. It's just hard not not say something when alot of people want big power but at the same time think they can do it with a stock or small upgrade.

     

     

    180(ci) X 7000(rpm) X .5 X .85 /1728 = 309 cfm

     

    309 cfm X 2.22 (18 psi) = 685 cfm

     

    685 cfm X .07 = 48 lbs/min.

    Do you believe this claim??

    in Turbo / Supercharger

    Posted

    I also plan on making 450 on boost, and spraying a healthy shot on nitrous at the track. All on pump gas. Granted, Im limited by money, so it's a slow process. I did nearly break 400tq last week though. :D Going back this weekend to try to break 300whp/400wtq on the dyno, stock turbo. No nitrous. Pump gas.

     

    If you would stop spending money on dyno time trying to blow your stock T3 up, that is running at the end of the map and get a decent turbo you would be close to making the 450 you want at the 20 psi you are already running on pump gas. Look at a map of a T3 60 trim. 34lbs/min

    7.4:1 vs 8.5:1 cr decision

    in Turbo / Supercharger

    Posted

    Chryslers do use .48's but they have a different downpipe with the wastegate intergrated. I "think" Volvos and maybe Saabs used a .48 too.

    A supercharged engine would have very low exhaust back pressure so. On most turbo setups there will be alot more exhaust manifold pressure than intake manifold pressure unless one was to run a very large turbine wheel with a larger a/r. There would be exhaust wanting to flow back into the combustion.

    Do you believe this claim??

    in Turbo / Supercharger

    Posted

    This is his opinion. My stock unkown mileage junkard block made over 400 rwhp at boost and timing that I "could" run with pump gas.

    I road race it at this level and it sees 3500(min) to 7500 RPMs for 30 minutes straight 3-4 times a day per race. In one day it probably gets beat on harder than most of the street cars on here get in a year. I haven't broke a piston since I've been running the stock P90's. There is no reason the stock P90 motor cannot make over 500 with more boost.

     

    A 2JZ will make around 450-480 with a small turbo(T56) at 18-20 psi. Put a T67 on and 28 psi and it's around 600RWHP.

     

     

    see more 'established' limits being debated here.

     

    Even the sticky thread on top of this forum suggests that the stock block is only good up until about 350rwhp.

     

    I expect that the stock Nissan shortblock (the block' date=' crank, pistons, rods, bearings, etc) can be pushed to a maximum of about 350hp. Anything over that and you are likely throwing reliability into the wind. For a really stout and reliable 300hp+, you should consider going with forged pistons. Pre-detonation can kill a turbo engine by melting pistons and breaking ring lands in under a second. Forged pistons will give you a bit more of a buffer. So be careful setting up your engine, and take it easy until you know your not too lean! If you are planning on an engine with more than 400hp, you will need to do some connecting rod prep as well.

     

    One more area of concern, the headgasket. Headgaskets rarely will blow without detonation occurring. If you are going nuts (over 400hp is nuts!) then you should look into block o-ringing or a metal headgasket of some sort.

    [/quote']

     

     

    So which is it? Is a 100% stock block good for over 350hp? Or are small turbo's the limiting factor? I thought the average T3/04 hybrid was worth more power than that?

     

     

    Frank280zx - thanks that's the info I've been looking for for a while :D I've always wondered how much hp paul newman's car had.. figured it had to be up there.

    Do you believe this claim??

    in Turbo / Supercharger

    Posted

    Making over 500 rwhp on a stock motor is not hard. Just a bigger turbo (more lag), more boost and C16 fuel. As long as detonation is avoided it will hold up. Most people struggle to make 300-350rwhp because they are using turbos that are too small and will only flow enough air for 300-350 rwhp.

    wastegates and small A/R's

    in Turbo / Supercharger

    Posted

    How fast do you want it to spool? It's not a diesel. If you are using a turbo capable of making good power, say a 60-1. If it was to reach 15-20 psi by say 2000 rpms or around there, it would surge. It's ok to have some lag. Having full boost in an RPM range that is way below you usefull power band doesn't gain anything but extra back pressure at higher RPMs. A stage III or O trim wheel is as small as I would go and no less than a .63 a/r.

    7.4:1 vs 8.5:1 cr decision

    in Turbo / Supercharger

    Posted

    Making 400 rwhp is probably easier with a 7.4 cr because you can run more boost with less chance of knock. You will need to run around 20 psi to do it though and have a turbo that can flow the air for it. My L28 is a little under 7.4 due to a little unshrouding in the head and makes a little over 400rwhp... My 7M motor is around 7.8. Off boost power and throttle response is fine even at almost 2600lbs. Anything above 4K and 18 psi (max on 91 oct) it will spin the 275's in 2nd from a roll.

    Brake Bias Problem...Help

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    I adjusted the rear shoes with a screwdriver through the access hole in the drum to the point where I felt a little drag on the drum while turning by hand. The handbrake also feels tight so I probably have the shoes too tight. I will back the shoes off tonight and see if it helps.

     

    I would back it off a little extra and use the P brake lever to adjust with.

    240Z Strut Boots

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    IMO, Boots don't offer any extra protection. Never had any problems with the shaft seals and dirt. On off road shocks the moisture stays in the boot and rusts the top of the shock. The small vent holes just allow water in but they don't dry out fast enough. Not many people(offroad orreintated) run them except for show. I haven't had any experience with them on road cars though.

    Drill Rear axels myself????

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    I would run atleats a 245mm tire. A 255 would also work.

     

    I redrilled my stub axles. You need a hub centric rotor hat. I used the one that came with the kit. Use one wheel stud and knock the rest out. I used a transfer punch to mark the holes. You will also need drill them in a drill press. If you aren't sure if you can do it Ross does them for around $100.

    POLL: where do you get your wastegate actuator signal from?

    in Turbo / Supercharger

    Posted

    I took my signal off the turbo. The higher you set a MBC above the wastegate setting the more spike you'll have. If you are running an internal wastegate you can add a spring that attaches to the flapper that will hold the wastegate shut longer. I used a peice of threaded rod to make it adjustable. It was dead accurate even at 17 psi were the MBC would sometimes spike to 20 psi if I romped on it at higher rpms:( . It was a little better at lower boost though.

    Octane Boost / Track day

    in Turbo / Supercharger

    Posted

    I always run race gas at the track even though I could probably get by with a mix of pump and race. I run alot more boost though. If you run 14 psi on pump but 15-16 causes knock I would run a little C16 in there to up the octane. If it knocks while you are in a session you just wasted one session, chances are you won't hear it either unless it's bad though.

     

    Don't know what turbo you run but if it has anywere near the lag mine has I would not retard the timing. It will give you a little more torque coming out of a turn especialy if your revs are a little lower than ideal.

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