Clifton

http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/clifton_ragland/vwp?.dir=/&.dnm=417+rwhp.jpg&.src=ph&.view=t&.hires=t

Ok I got the SDS and 550cc's in. I spent about 15 mintutes tunning it in the garage before driving it. I only adjusted the fuel/rpm. I did a little tunning on the dyno as I kept increasing the boost. 3500-5000 leaner and 6000-7000 leaner, fuel only. I could of left it alone at what I set it at in the garage but that was the point of going to the dyno. I didn't touch the map values it came with. They make setting it up almost too easy. This run was at 22 psi, the highest I ran the boost at. I could of easily run more boost but it's a roadrace car and it's got to last for 30 + minutes not 10 - 11 seconds. I will run it at 19 psi at the track being that my gauge only goes to 20 psi. I just know one more turn on the knob gives me about more 4 psi if needed. My smartmedia card took a dump and my scanner is dying so it's green. if this doesn't work click the link below.

I have a T04B compressor, V trim. I don't remberber the A/R though. I didn't have any interference when it was a T3/4. I swapped it over to a full T4 and there's plenty of room. I can't believe they didn't line. That sucks. You could measure the wheel to make sure it is in fact an E trim, they all use the same backplate, and get a new back plate. If you have the parts I would do what you can to get it on there.

I looked but didn't see any prices on there site. If they have it for that, that's a great deal. I didn't seen it cheaper than $140 when I got mine. I'll definatly try them on my next pump.

I'm running a Walbro GSL392. $140 at APE http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/ . Mine flowed 40 gal/hr at 60psi and 60 gal/hr at 40 psi at 14v measured on the car from the return through stock lines. More than enough for 500+hp at 20 psi. I don't know what the Bosch on the 944T's are rated and was afraid to chance it, but I know they get big power out of them. If you get the 944 pump make sure it's a Turbo unless they are the same.

$1500 and no trans, ouch! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2407426861&category=33615

Chrysler, Nissan, and Ford all use different bolt patterns on the wastegate housing. Turbonetics uses the Ford pattern.

You also might want to ask the turbo shop if you can even put a Roto-mater Compressor on there. That might be some big shat set up like garrets T series. Garret and Air Research are the same but I believe Roto-master made there own stuff. You could of bought new Garret stuff for what you paid for that and you could of picked your trim.

The turbo cams also have less lift on the intake. I don't see the benifit of the P90 cams compared to the older "A" cams. More duration would give you more top end but I don't think there is enough difference between stock cams to make a noticable difference. If you're looking for more I would go after market and get a real improvement. A stock T3 hot side will spool up any compressor more than fast enough at 3000 rpm+. My .02.

You can make 250RWHP on a bone stock L28ET with ease. The KA24 pistons will work but are not designed for turbo use and do not have the thick upper ring land. Stock turbo pistons are alot stronger and more forgiving. I would spend your stroker money on turbo, clutch and efi parts. When I trash a motor I have no problem throwing in another $200 junk yard motor. When a big $$$$ stroker motor goes it's gonna hurt.

Your HP goals could be easily obtained with your motor. If you don't have a turbo yet I wouldn't go with a T3, it might get you to where you want but that's about all it will do. You will want more down the road and it will not have it. I would scrap the 76' EFI, there is nothing to retard timing under boost or enrich under boost. If you put in larger injectors it will be to rich off boost. You could ad an MSD BTM and run additional injectors or there are other options as stand alone. A 3" downpipe on a stock T3 only to run a 2.5" exhaust? I would run all 2.5". The turbo outlet is only about 2.5".

That's amazing, I never knew US tracks had db limits. I wasn't sure if it was some state law or just the track.

Are all the Ca. tracks this strict on noise. What do they do when Cart races there? I've never heard of a db limit at a track or even on the street in Az.

That's how T3/T4's are made. Your TA/49 should be a T04 E 60 trim, alot of people run those.

Do you mean lb/hr? Putting in a larger injector with stock efi on a stock motor will not make more power.

Using a cold start valve as on theis web site is a bad idea. There is now way to control the pulse width for increasing RPM and boost. It's either off or on. If the A/F is good at 3500 @ 10 psi, it will be lean at 5500 rpm @ 10 psi. This is what not to do. AIC's can be picked up pretty cheap on Ebay.

I would really recommend a larger injector than the stock 280ZXT ones before you spend a lot of time getting it programed. You can easily max them out with your set up and 15 psi. The motor is capable of much more than they can flow and with stand alone and more boost, it can be easily achieved. If you wait and put the larger ones in later you'll have to reprogram everything all over.

I was talking about for street use but drag racing isn't too hard on brakes. No threshhold braking, one stop every now and then. If you are experiencing brake fade with cheap pads, a race worthy streetable pad will make a big difference. Stock brakes work great under street conditions, and can handle a couple of hard stops. It's just when you make repeated stops at high speeds lap after lap that the heat cannot dissipate.

A race type pad, I've used Axxis metal masters, make a huge difference in reducing brake fade. I do agree with Mudge, the stock solid rotor definatly limits you, even with a larger caliper.

Toyota 79-85' all had solid axles and rotors, these calipers are a bolt deal. 86-95' were IFS and have vented rotors. Within the IFS years they had V6 calipers 88-95' that have 4 large pistons compared to the 4 vented that had 2 large and 2 small pistons. You need the 79-85 calipers for stock 240Z brakes.

I'm using the MSD boost retard. They make one for use with the 6AL and one with stock ignition. I have the one for stock ign. You can adjust it between 0-3 degrees per psi. I have used the Jacobs one in the past. It is crap compared to the MSD's adjustablity. It was worth the $179 I paid. I run mine close to the edge of knock. If I hear anything I just turn the little knob a little more.

I had a GN turbo with a lightly grooved shaft. The local shop sent it(turbine wheel) to a shop in Cali and they turned it down .005". With a complete rebuild kit and shipping it was under $140, can't remember the exact amount it was a year ago. I don't know the limit they can turn stuff down. Rebuilding a turbos is pretty easy, Once you pull it apart you'll see there's really no much to them. I've never had any thing balanced and never had any problems and I've replaced wheels with new ones. Each part is balanced seperately from the factory, Turbonetics and a few other big shops balance the comp. wheel and the turbine together as one peice, the majority of small shops don't and or I should say can't.

I've had no problems. On my Z I've run up to 20 psi with 2 550's and have the dyno sheet in the Datsun L6 section. I'm only going with SDS because I need more fuel than I can get out of the current set up and I have a set of 550's ready to go in. On my truck (Toyota V6) I run 12 psi with 9:1 CR. One 550cc and one 260cc. It's been turboed for 11 months, daily driver and no problems. I do run a boost retard also. I'm happy with it on the truck as the AIC does not effect me passing emissions. I agree that it isn't as good as 1 larger injector with programable EFI or 2 injectors per cylinder with one being controlled with an AIC but I don't think that it is any worse than a carb. If you plan to run methanol, you'll need to double the cc's on the injectors compared to what you'd run with gas.

SDS and HKS both make inj. holders. You can get steel or aluminum I got some from AZZcar. I welded them into the tubr just before the TB I run add inj on my Z and truck, both turboed. On my cay they sprayed into the airstream, on my truck they spray torwards the TB. I can send a pic of each if you'ld like ideas. IMO It sounds like you are trying to make your setup complicated. I prefer running it all on the same fuel system. There is nothing to worry about or remember to fill. If you need an intercooler I would put one on instead of water injection, again put it on and forget about it.