Clifton

There are MKIII guys making 350+ hp to the wheels on them and one guy had dyno sheets before and after adding an HKS cooler and the HP didn't go up much. I don't know why you would say they don't flow, there's like 25 tubes, there wouldn't be to much of a pressure drop. Don't know how efficient they are though. As far as "OE" intercoolers go they aren't bad.

$900 should get you the complete car with motor. I wouldn't give him more than $400 it, maybe $500 with turbo. If it had 5k miles on it and it's been there since 84, why has it sat for so long when it could of been sold back 86' when these cars were newer and he could of got $1900 for the motor. Unless this guy was a good friend I would question that. I called 2 junk yards last week. One said $750 the other $250 plus core. I got it for $200 cash and didn't give a core. It came with manifolds and injectors, no turbo. About the turbo. They all have some shaft play even new ones. It's hard to explain what a small amount and too much should feel like. So if you wiggle it and can fell some movement don't worry unless the impeller is almost touching the housing. You can get a full rebuild kit for $65-75. I think it's more important that the impeller isn't nicked up and worn from a poor filter and hasn't touched the sides yet. I've bought a few used turbos and always consider them as needing a rebuild. You have no idea of there past life and miles and doesn't cost much. It's hard to give an opinion on what set up to run. You may be happy with the HP at 10 psi while I need 20 psi that would require you to take a different route from the start. I wouldn't be to concerened about the stock injectors and turbo though, as they are both to small to make big HP.

They are O-ring type but the plug is different. They make female connectors that will fit but it won't look as nice as a plug. They are also hard to find, some electronic specialty stores carry them, not Radio Shack though. I would try http://www.supraforums.com. Alot of them run 550 cc injectors that have the same connectors as S30's and Z31's so they have to cut there plugs off.

I too have had a few L6's on on the cheap 3 wheeled stands with turbo and manifolds and no problems. Make sure to get the center of the rotating mount of the stand as high as you can on the motor, it will make it alot easier to rotate. Don't line up the center of the mount with the center of the crank, or lower.

If it was coaed it is realy thin, almost like it's just sprayed on like paint. Should of been black . As for the copper spray. When I reused my metal HG I used Permatex copper spray, I got it at Checker or Autozone. One more thing. I once installed a regular composite HG for a 240Z on a F54 block and P90 head. There is an extra water passage on the P90 head and the moment I filled it, it leaked. It leaked alot so it was obvious that it was the wrong gasket, I don't know how bad yours was leaking but I thought I would share that.

I've used 2 new metal gaskets (one was Nissan the other HKS) and put them in dry. I reused one of them and used alot of copper spray and didn't have any problems. They have a thin rubber like coating to seal the imperfections. Is the one you are using the multi-layer steel with the coating?

You can get 4 to 5 lug adapters but they add 2". http://www.truckn-store.com/product_list.asp?id=466

"would the old 6mm supply line be big enough to take over as a return for 280zxt though?" It depends on the pump you're using. I was using a Paxton Kamikaze and the regulator was the restriction, not the return line. I check pressure and volume with, and with out the return line hooked up, The only drawback was high (50 psi) pressure at idle, with retuen going into fuel jug(no restriction). If I revved it it would drop to were it should be (36-40). So I'm trying to say the factory regulator will be more of a restriction than using the feed line as a return line. You can always run 2 3/8" lines. There is enough in one roll, I just chose not to run 2.

240Z TURBO, were did you get the large flex (without the stainless mesh)in the pic below? I've been looking everywhere but only find the mesh covered ones.

3/8" 0r -6 is enough for anything a L28t will ever need. Replace the factory return line with some aluminum 3/8" from Summit or Jegs,ect and use that as your feed and your old feed as your return as it's a tad smaller. I haven't seen stainless available. I used aluminum and haven't had any problems.

On a port matched only P90 head and stock F54 block, conquest intercooler, T3/T4 V trim, 2 1/2" open ex., and one add injector ( 7 total stock l28t injectors). At 12 psi I made rear wheel, 244 hp and 271 ftlbs, I've since done alot to it and now run 20 psi. If you want to make alot of power, crank the up the boost ( don't let it detonate) it makes a night and day difference. I agree chassis dynos are not 100% accurate but alot of Supra, and I'm sure other guys are on them enough and there numbers seem to be the same per mod from car to car. So they are pretty reliable +/- a few ponies.

7MGTE (turbo)are black, 7MGE (non turbo) are light green. You can pick the turbo ones up pretty cheap as most guys swap in 550's.

Thanks guys. I hate adding weight to a car but the extra HP potential would be nice. I didn't think a T5 was that light, compared to a Supra trans.

I've searched. I know the Nissan 5 spd is about 90 lbs and the Supra R154 is about 130 lbs. Does anyone know what the T5 weighs?

Yes it is possible, you'll need a big wastegate and If you have a compressor large enough to make big power you'll have compressor surge at low flow/high boost. it's a catch 22 thing. If you sell your manifold what would you want for it? I'm putting a 7M motor in my Z also (wasted my last L28). I planned on welding a flange onto the 7M manifold, but i'm always looking for deals.

MKIV's are, I believe 550cc and are side feed. MKIII Turbos are low impedance 2.9 430cc, MKIII N/A are high impedance 13.8 315cc. I think you might have non turbo injectors.

Is this for your 7M or Z motor? I welded a T4 flange onto a ZX turbo manifold. I then hogged out the t3 hole till it was flush with the T4 flange. Don't waste your time with T3/T4 stuff. New TO4B's with H trim's are $400 and TO4E 60 trim's $450, 60-1 was $600 I believe. You can get turbine wheels and housings cheap too if you don't like what you get, I got an O trim wheel and .69 housing, and heat shield used for $120 to convert my T3/T4.

Why waste that much on just a housing when you can buy a complete T04E any trim for $450 or T04B for $400. You'll still have that little T3 turbine wheel unless you upgrade that and machine the housing. Just my thoughts.

R154 (turbo trannies) can be found for under $300 and are plenty storng. Get the ecu wiring and ecu as it will save you money on after market efi. With 550 cc injectors and larger AFM you can make close to 400rwhp on stock efi and turbo. There are many making over 500rwhp on stock motors http://www.supraforums.com

I have run 20 psi (T4 V trim) on a complete stock L28 turbo bottom end with factory cast pistons. I have used it only for road racing for the last 6 or so years so it does get a hard work out. You can waste your money on coatings for cast pistons and magna fluxing rods but it is not nessecary. I keep the revs under 7200 rpm with an accidental 7800 according to the tell tale form the last run and have only had problems with crank pulleys. Forged pistons are better but I have managed with out them. If you detonate with a cast piston it will break though, I've killed a few with too much timing at 10 psi. Don't let it knock.

The cam is going to be the determining factor as far as peak hp goes. You'll start having valve float around 7000 maybe less with old stock springs. My L28 has a totaly stock bottom and I've never had a problem shifting at 7000 or more, I never go above 7500 though. In fact at one of the tracks 5th gear at the end of the long straight is around 7200. Once I had a valve hit a piston knocking the keepers loose dropping the valve, luckily the piston came back up quick enough to bend the valve lodging it in the now broken guide. Only cost me a valve and a guide. In 8 years of road racing this is the only problem I've had. Now I run Schnieder springs and it does pull alot harder on the top. The motors can take quite a bit regardless of what the stock tachs say.

I got mine here 1-800-738-8726 Turbo& Electric Ask for Scott. They sell everything turbo, new,used, parts or whatever. They are in Phoenix.