Tony240ZT
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Posts posted by Tony240ZT
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Do you have pictures of a 280ZX G nose? I've always thought the 280ZX already looks more G nose-ish in a way. I really like the body kits that MSA offers to replace the old bumpers. Similar to the kit on my `72. Really makes the car look totally different, and much more sleak.. If you did a G-nose on a ZX how would the rear bumper look as compared to the front?
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Just ask if you have any questions on mods. If you have the time, doing it yourself will make the end result much more enjoyable. I think others here that have completed performance upgrades will agree with me on that.
Is your car currently running? What EFI system are you running? Fill us in on what all you've done, and what your expectations are and we can help you with your first few steps to more power.
If you have time to drive it, you probably have time to mod it
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As you've found out making horse power isn't simply about bolting on a super big turbo and praying to the turbo gods that it makes as much horse power as the sticker says it will make.
The best way to get the most out of a turbo is to properly pick out the size that is right for your engine. It may be true that the properly sized turbo will have a higher potential than your engine is capable of, but if it is by a large amount (like 200hp
) then you are probably not utilizing the turbo in the best way possible.It is also possible to have a turbo too small in which case you end up creating too much back presure in the exhaust manifold, and a lot of heat is created. As we know heat is bad.. Lag is bad too, it's that sweet spot in between that you should be looking for.
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Awesome, you are running an intercooler now, right? Where are pics of it?
How is the stock clutch holding up?
I bet if you made up your own little tubular turbo elbo you'd flow air right out the back of the turbo a little better. Scotties' down pipe is nice, but if you can fab your own stuff try and find yourself the flange. Scottie had one made up for me, but I think they are harder to come by now.
I forget what size and trim your turbo is, also what sized throttle body? Are you happy with the turbo, or do you think it's too big for you? What sized injectors? Are you running the 280ZXT EFI system?
I know you've stated this stuff else where. My dialup connection is too slow to surf around though. I'd love to see the details on your web site.
I G-Teched my `73 w/L24ET no intercooler at 14.62 @ 97.4mph, but I have a lot of problems with the car. My 3 speed tranny is slipping (over heating), if I'm under boost for a long time in 2nd gear the car quits at 5K RPM (either running out of fuel, ignition prob, or unlikely detonation, which it doesn't sound like), and the car is running rich most of the time. I've got a lot of stuff to figure out, and an intercooler to install and hopefully I'll be in the 13's with ya after I get the bugs out. Oh, I'm running 10 pounds of boost with no detonation at 7.56:1 CR, on pump gas. I think my 5K RPM ghost rev limiter has to do with fuel delivery. I'll put my fuel presure gauge back on the car and make sure. I hope to install a more stout auto tranny, probably the Starion 4 speed w/over drive since it is strong and has like a 3500RPM staul point!!
Keep up the good runs, look foward to seeing what you'll have to do to get it in the 12's. Maybe just some slicks?
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I would like to think that the guys that have done this swap are helping to make this swap more commen. I think Josh is going to lend me his harness as soon as he swaps over to a stand alone engine management system. At which point I will study and share in the best way that I can what I have learned.
I have all of the parts in my hands right now to do the swap, but am just lacking an engine harness diagram, and how then it relates with the chassis.
The 280Z/X AFM door type setup is not all that much fun, but it has proven to be a reliable setup (Scotty with his L28ET has taken the system into the high 12's!), and is much more flexable than the mass air flow meter. As someone meantioned this may be no problem with the proper amount of un-meetered air mixed into the equation when going to larger injectors.
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Don't get discuraged if you don't get much of a response. It is very possible to do, there is a lack of info due to the fact that the wiring diagrams for the 300ZX/T engine harness are not in the off the shelf hand books such as clintons and haynes.
I don't know the main differences in the 300ZX NA and Turbo ecu and sensors/controls, but in the 280ZX's case the Turbo setup is superior. This could be true for the 300ZX Turbo ECU as well. All you'd have to do is run with your stock sized injectors vs. the turbo ones.
If you are going out to get the stuff grab as much as you can. You will need a 280ZX Turbo distributor, and the shaft that drives it. From what others have said the plate in the distributor of the `82-`83 280ZX Turbo is the same as the one in the 300ZX. Pull all of the temperature sensors, knock sensor, TPS, air bypass, mass air, fuel presure reg. with the temp sensor in it, coil igniter, may even want to grab the 300ZX coil. As I've learned from pulling out the 280ZX Turbo harness you will want to grab as much as you can. Not just of the engine harness, but also cut into a bit behind of where the engine harness splices into the chassis harness. These wires that go off into the chassis harness will be where you pull power/ground for the ecu, most likely the signal for the coil igniter, also the power leads for the fuel pump. The 300ZX ECU uses distance traveled for some computations, so you may want to try and find where the speedometer cable has a pickup. Others have said that they have run their cars without this though.
I guess the #1 thing that will help you out the most in the process is getting a nissan manual. I don't think they are cheap, but they are the only resource that I know of that has the complete wiring diagram.
Also, read and learn what you can about the differences between the non turbo and turbo systems. Maybe z31.com will have some info that you will find usefull.
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You should have no problem hooking up the MSD system. Here I made this picture up a while back to help someone else out:
You want to keep the coil igniter. I think you take the output wires from it, the blue(-) and the black/white(+) and hook it up to the MSD system. Without the coil igniter the computer would only put out a very small amperage pull to ground on that yellow/white wire going to the igniter. So that you don't harm the ECU you'll have to use the igniter.
Hopefully somone that has hooked up this sytem can back this. I'm just going off of how I've seen others install these systems before.
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240Z and 260Z guys have to swap over to the `75-`78 280Z tachs for electronic ignition setups. This might be your situation as well. Here is a little snip from Brian Little's web page:
"280Z TACH INTO A 240Z
I would recommend getting rid of your old 240Z tach. Vintage, but not designed well, they're inaccurate and start jumping around as they age: Replace it with a 1975-78 280Z tach.
Put the new tach in the 240 metal housing, and swap the faceplates to keep the redline accurate. The needle pops off, don't damage it. A drop of rubber cement might be needed to put it back on. Don't use superglue or you'll never get it off again.
Connect the tach's sensor lug to the negative terminal on the coil. NOTE: Make sure you reverse the power leads on the back of the tach, compare them before you swap for a reference.
The little "loop plug" from the 240 tach should be plugged back into the wiring harness in the dash, otherwise the car won't start.
If you have trouble getting the tach to work, a simpler solution is to replace it with a 5" aftermarket model like Autometer makes."
Hope that helps.. What year is your 510?
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The silicone hose will strech/expand a little under boost if you've got a lot of it. Kind of like how old rubber brake lines will. Not something you would want to be putting your energy into.
Keep with the smallest diameter pipe as you can for your horse power application. We talked about this in an easlier thread. I think the conclusion was that if you were making under 250hp then 2" pipe is the way. You will definately be making more. You'd have to find the thread, either 2 1/4" or 2 1/2" should be good for your setup.
I'd show ya a picture of my setup, but it seems my image server is down!
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That's a good one to book mark.
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You need it to pass smog, so keep it around. I'd just relocate the thing. Tons of room if you take out your cruise control. Heheh, joking, don't do that.
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I'm running an `85 300ZX water cooled Turbo on my L24ET setup, swapped the back plate over from a 280ZX Turbo (which has the waste gate door), along with the waste gate accuator. Both turbos have the same specs AFAIK.
Actually any garrett T3 will swap over with ease. Ones with the T4 hybrid compressor may need to be spaced out a little to clear the ehxaust manifold.
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I've detonated at 12psi with my L24, which has the stock 30 year old cast pistons and rings. I got out of it right away, richened up or turned down the timing and off I went. No piston damage. I'm sure my rings are pretty tired, but they are still hangen. I'm at 7.56:1 CR
Seems all L series engines were over built by quite a bit, just gotta be on your toes, and watch those gauges.
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But even like 12 pounds of boost is no fun.. I want to be in the high 12's in the 1/4!
Un-metered air might be a good way to do it. Do you have a suggestion for making the un metered air be adjustable easily, maybe a small throttle body? Sounds kind of cluttering, but anything to keep from having to empty our pockets for a stand alone
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I've gotten the Porsche 911 comment on my `72 before. Seems like ever since I put the body kit on and lowered it people don't know what it is.
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Josh, there are lots of NA's but all of the distributors are gone for some reason. It's like the first thing people yank off of these cars. I guess people think they have failed on their cars, but it's likely something else.
If you find one see if you can yank out the plate for me, thanks.
I'd love to be able to write my own maps. I don't have experience burning eproms, but am willing to buy into the hardware if it'd be cheaper than having JWT do a job on this thing.
I really think that we should study this stuff and come out with the info openly, or at least for a much better price than what JWT is offering. For that price you might as well go with SDS. I'm a computer programmer if you get to a point where you think you could use my help let me know.
BTW, I'm running 11psi on the 280ZXT setup with the larger injectors and no intercooler without running lean or detonation on pump gas. I'd love to have an intercooler and pump it up some more. My CR is 7.56:1 with the L24ET, I think the L28ET is 7.4:1 or there abouts.
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The only difference in the trigger wheel that I can see is that the #1 cylinder has an elongated square. I'm having a hard time finding a Z31T distributor to get the plate from, so I think I'll just mod my plate.
My 280ZXT setup is running pretty well on my L24ET, but runs rich when I'm not under boost due to the larger Mustang SVO injectors.
I'd still like to try out the swap though.
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It's looking very nice. Thanks for the update. I have that same oil cap, and taylor spark plug wires on my car.
What throttle body is that? and what oil plate adapter is that? Is it the stock auto tranny one?
Wow, your fuel rail is long
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I'm using it on my `72 w/7m-gte engine. Haven't driven the car yet, but the system was easy to install and I was able to get the engine running quickly.
The hand held LCD is great for tuning in your map on the fly. I've got the new v4.0, Pete Sanders is running his L28ET with the Wolf3D v3.0 and loves it (2nd gen rx7 coils and igniters).
It's priced half of what the Electromotive setup is, and I don't think electromotive has anything to justify the price difference. Electromotive include their own coil packs and igniters, but those things can be found pretty cheaply. I'm using 3 2nd gen rx7 coil igniters, the coils that are found mounted with the igniters are great coils, but I stuck with the ones that came with my engine, since they are great as well, and mount well on the engine.
With an electric air bleed off valve you it can control your boost. Also has a couple aux outputs and inputs that can be used for anything you can put your mind to. It can drive most OEM idle valves. I've heard they are working on an upgrade that will have temperature maps for most OEM water temps, which is pretty cool. I'm using the VDO one that came with the kit. I had my magnetic type cam possition sensor pickup modified to work with the system, pretty easy just had to cut off a couple teeth off of the stock one.
The system supports full sequential for a 4 cylinder setup, but for higher cylinder #'s you use the oposing cylinders as if they were the first group. Max # of cylinders it can drive is 12, and it can control staged injectors as well. If you have more than 4 cylinders you have wasted spark, where the ignition is fired on the exhaust stroke as well, but I don't see this being a problem unless you want like over 1000hp, or something crazy like that. You can still have a coil per cylinder though, which would help under a high boost/water injection/methonal injection/nos setup.
For the install I picked up a few relays from Radio Shack, they have 30amp ones there that should work for anything that you need such as driving the fuel pump, fan(s), etc. Also picked up a cheap little fuse block. The instructions are pretty strait forward, and get to the point quick. Not a lot of detail, but I geuss they are working on that. I bought like the 2nd v4.0 released to the US, so I'm sure they've made minor updates since then.
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I believe they are 4.11:1
Here is a auction that went for a complete IRS on ebay, but out of a non turbo (no LSD):
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1828371644&r=0&t=0
The car has a longer wheel base, but I think some of you know better than me and know how to fix this problem. The rear brakes are vented 11.5"x.07" single piston calipers, CV's, double wish bone, control arms are aluminum.
There is a LSD sticker on the back of them like here on my car:
and as you can see from this picture both tires are warn equally a lot. Everyone pressures me to smokem, I can't resist a crowd
Yes, I need new tires badly. These were a set of Perelli P700's, think I'll go with a cheaper set of Yokohama AVS Intermediats. They seem to work well on the 240Z, and are priced right.
Scottie may have some insite on how to drop in a complete IRS out of a wider car, since he did the corvette job.
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I wish it was only as simple as loosening up some bolts. I've done that already. I'm going to have to take off the hood and long gate the holes more on the hood. I think there is enough meat there to play with. I think the hood sits to the passenger side more than the other. I'm kinda pissed, I traided a chromed Z valve cover for it. I think I should have saved the valve cover and bought a fiber glass hood.
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Note, he said he adjusted them that way when cold. I've never measured the difference when cold and when warm, but that is probably about right.
Like stated, its just a timing issue now.
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Good looking setup, I'd like to see how you hook the wastegate up to the dp. Should be a fast car if you use the potential of that turbo.
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I picked up this hood that was laying around in someones garage for a very long time and thought it would be nice for my `73. It doesn't have the vents like for a 280Z, so I'm assuming its for a 240z or 260z. I have the bolts loosened up and push the hood as far foward as it will go and when I try to close it the hood is hanging over the cowl like a whole nother 1/4 inch.
Could this hood be for a different year? It wasn't made by Nissan, so maybe they were off. I'm thinking of just hacking up the mount a little bit, but if it was made for a different year maybe I can sell it to someone else with that year and buy myself a different hood.
If anyone is interested in it let me know, its practicly new. I've had it mounted on my car for a month or so now, and before that it was all boxed up. Perfectly strait.
Thanks.
) then you are probably not utilizing the turbo in the best way possible.
turbo exhaust color
in Turbo / Supercharger
Posted
I may be wrong on this one, but I think it can be normal. My turbo has gotten hot enough to see that it is partially glowing (like on the thinner parts of the metal). My air/fuel meter shows that I don't run lean, and the car doesn't act as if it has run lean.
At those temps I think a combination of rust, oil, and all other chemicals under the hood end up turning that color. I've seen it more so on some cars than others in the bone yard. It sand blasts off without a problem. If you want to see if you are really cooking that turbo too much and you have some time try taking off that back plate that contains the waste gate door and look to see if there are cracks around the waste gate hole. I almost think a couple hair line cracks might be normal for high mileage, but if you have something that is a gaping crack then the turbo has probably at one point or another been heated up a few times too much.
If you are concerned about running lean I'd install a air/fuel ratio gauge. Pretty simple install, just one wire to the O2, and give it power. They sell for around $50.