Tony240ZT
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Posts posted by Tony240ZT
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Nice and smooth. Bet it will noticable help. Here is my squared off one that I made for less than $10
That was with the stock turbo was easy to use it along with the new to4b w/4" mouth now, just used a 3" to 4" flexable adapter.
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It's sad, I haven't even touched the car in about 3 months. I just got a job, though, so shortly after I pay bill collectors
I'll jump right back in where I left off. As I've said before I still need an exhaust system, drive line modded, and intercooler piping. I would almost like to make my own intake manifold before I do intercooler piping because I want to have a smoother route and a larger throttle body. I've got the CV adapters, and will probably start putting those on this week, but I still have an open diff, so I guess I'll have to put a LSD on the list of parts to get.I've put a new set of yokohama avs's on the car right before I parked it, the tokico struts and springs are practicly new, put in new bushings, and MSA sway bars. The car should handle great, I've only put the toyota 4x4 front calipers on for brake upgrades, but I really hope to do more soon.
I figure it'll cost me around this much to get it on the road, along with buying a new welder so that I can make the intake manifold myself.
~$500 for welder, maybe I can find a good one used though
~$100 for welding and balancing the drive line
~$400 for LSD + new rubber mount
~$150 for aluminum intercooler piping + T clamps
~$250 for a 3" ehxaust system + muffler + tip
Think that's about right? My local muffler shops don't do mandrel exhaust systems, I guess I should drive the car to somewhere that can, any recomendations for southern california?
If I wanted someone else to do the intake manifold, it'll be just a log type, how much do you think it'd cost me? I'd just mount up one of those cheap, if you can find them, Mercedes 450SL 60mm throttle body. I would need a blow off valve too, so I'll look around on thepartstrader and ebay.
My tranny sticks out a little more on the passenger side than it does the drivers side, and I think it could rock enough to hit the tunnel. I think it'd be an easy fix if I just took the engine out and banged a bit on the tunnel, I'm lazy, so I'll probably see if it hits first before doing.
I'll get more pictures when I start work on things again. Oh, I forgot I scavanged the car's electric fans for my orange car, so there's something else I have to pick up. I bet I'll have to put another $1500 in before I have it on the road.
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Just wondering, does anyone besides me have a 7m in their engine compartment? If so please send pics. I'm not sure if I'm happy with my tranny mount.
If you have a little more money go with the 2jz. The jz engines rev higher because of their better head flow, they also don't pop their head gaskets as easily. I think the jz engines have oil squirters at the bottom of the pistons as well. I picked the 7m because I'm familiar with it and it was priced right.
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That MKIII one at the top is like an acordian and is restrictive in comparison to the MKIV one. The MKIII one is probably good for ~300hp with a lot of heat while the MKIV one is comfortable at ~350hp.
The size and shape of the MKIII's IC is a nice fit for the Z car and that's why I picked an aftermarket MKIII IC from HKS for my Z car.
Get the large NPR one if you're going for OEM stuff
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I think you're correct to assume the head gasket. I'm sure a presure test will prove it. Almost like the head gasket is keeping a seal up to a certain degree (holding the water in), but as soon as you are into the high boost range air is able to get into the water system.
Sorry to hear about the problems, just don't let your radiator get busted from it! I've heard of stories where radiators have been damaged from these exact circumstances.
Any chance your head is lifting!? I'm sure you have the head torqued down well, so that would be odd. On those metal head gaskets you REALLy have to have a nice mirror like surface on the contact areas to make a good seal.
Best of luck, keep us updated.
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If someone has a home made kit I'd be interested in what you used to get it working well. I know there are some kits, but I think it could be done for far less money, and the aluminum welded tanks are a little over doing it for just holding water and a vacuum.
Do these systems use pumps, or do they just use the boost presure to inject the water?
Are there cheap mechanical or electrical vacuum switches out there? I guess a waste gate could be used as a mechanical arm/lever to open and close something usefull.
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I pulled my compressor T4 housing/wheel/back plate off of a ford diesel. Just happened to be around the size I wanted, t04b V trim with .60 A/R. The turbine setup was more like 1.0 A/R too big.
The compressor will easily swap onto a t3 garrett, you may have to find out a different way to mount the waste gate actuator.
New bushings/seals can be found from http://www.turbocity.com/
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I've been in a finacial bind since the great amount of lay offs last year. I've found some work as an electronic engineer now, so soon I should have money to start dumping back into the car.
The only thing that is holding me back is a drive line, exhaust system, and intercooler piping. The engine runs fine in the engine bay.
Luckly I haven't been without a sporty ride this whole time. My `73 240Z has a t3/t4 turbo, intercooler, on a fuel injected L24 w/P90 head.
My `87 Supra Turbo is a fun ride too. I will probably sell my `81 280ZX and put the money towards the `72 w/the 7m-gte. Am also considering selling the Supra to make the `73 my daily driver.
Just got the CV adapters from Ross at Modern Motor Sport, so I will be bolting them in soon. Also would like to get my hands on a R200 LSD before I start on the CV job. The quality of these CNC CV adapters look great!
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I'd say $350 for a complete long block + intake + turbo from a yard. It's easier if you get as much stuff as possible including the harness, ecu, sensors, etc. The borg warner t5 needs minor custom work to get installed in a early Z. The turbo alternator puts out like 75 amp, which is a great upgrade, the starter is a gear reduction one I believe, also good upgrade. The radiator can be put into the earlier Z and adds better cooling, although it hangs down a little in the front and could get hit if you park your car over one of those parking lot deals. People say its worth it though.
Ross C. is selling a set of CV adapters for the early Z car which would require the use of the CV's out of the 280ZX Turbo. It's possible that the R200 rear end, and brakes could be swapped over from the 280ZX, so it may be easiest to get a complete car if you have the room.
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yo2001, I think the best source for oil would be on the passenger side where a oil line goes to the front of the block and has an oil plug up there. I think it would be accessable from inside if you drilled into it. Then it would just be a matter of routing some custom pipes making sure to have clearance for rods and such.
If you have a picture of the bottom end, or a cutaway drawing of the RB26DETT I'd love to see.
I can't find anything in the "how to modify your nissan & datsun ohc engine" on oil squirters, but I bet the L28ET in the electromotive race car had them. If anyone has more info on the engines used in the 280ZX Paul Newman raced I'd love to know about it.
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David, I'm with you. I'd like those bran new engines, seats, wheels, etc.
Must have been an exciting ride. Had to have been a smoother ride since it was in a Lexus, right?
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I'm sure something could be built. Maximum Boost and Smokey Yunick's power secrets has some tips on shooting oil at the bottom of the cylinders. I'd like to do this myself on a street performance prepped L28ET block that I have laying in the garage. Just afraid of making commitments.
The books have ideas on the size of the injector holes, but I can't find my books right now.
This combined with ceramic coating would make for an awesome setup. I just wish I had the extra money to get all of my internals coated, and treated.
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Check out "How to Modify Your Nissan & Datsun OHC Engine" by Frank Honsowetz. It has info on what to pay attention to, what you can lighten, how to ballance, and lots of other tips.
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I think the price would be fair if you were buying it bran new with the oil feed lines/return lines, and a warranty.
The cast intake pipes are nice looking, and probably expencive, but as soon as you go with an intercooler they aren't useable.
For the money pick up a used 280zx turbo exhaust manifold, a t3/t4 turbo, NPR intercooler, blow off valve, oil cooler, electric fan(s). You'd be much happier, and your car would be much faster.
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I'm very surprised! I had no idea that BMW would sell such untested crap. Broken valves, broken rods, bent crank shafts all with very low mileage. I thought these cars did well in many racing classes, and performance without reliability don't cut it.
Anyone know why the valves are filled with sodium?
Well, I bet a lot of these cars will be selling for dirt cheap after the warranty is gone. If the rest of the car is in good shape (suspention/brakes/interior electronics) it could be used to stick a RB engine into
Who knows though, the same guys that designed the engine could be some of the same type that designed the chassis. -
Just don't try to park over those parking islands, and drive side ways over gutters/speed bumps. My car is lowered with Tokico springs/struts, and has the MSA air dam kit. I haven't hit anything yet and I've had the car setup like this for over 2 years.
Slight change in driving habits, but it's worth it.
I'd like to get an air dam for my orange 240Z, if anyone has one in used condition that is repairable then let me know.
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My turboed L24 should be inspiring enough to have others turbo a non turbo block. It's a stock bottem end with around 100K miles with a P90 head. T3/T4 turbo, intercooled, `83 ZXT electronics, and I'm pretty sure I'm running high 13's right now. My CR is 7.54:1.
The turbo pistons are better setup for the forced induction, but as long as you keep an eye on your air/fuel ratios and make sure not to ping (very much) then all should hold together for more than a few thousand miles.
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Here is a picture I made up for someone a while back.
Although I'm pretty sure the car needs power all the time there for the ECU. Where else does the ECU get power if not there? Anyways, that is the way my car has been running.
There is also the green wire on the passenger side that drives the + side of the injectors, does the black/white wire from over there give power to the ECU, thought it was just for the distributor? Both of these wires are from the relay on the passenger side.
By "not used" I mean not important to the running of the engine. I think some A/C wires are run through that plug, along with boost sensor, and temp sensor.
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Also, an interal wastegate can add turbulence to the excaping gasses from the turbine.
The old waste gate hole can be covered and then welded up. Then mount your external where ever is best. "Maximum Boost" has great pointers on the best place to mount the port of the waste gate.
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I've heard that Turbo & Electric sells a t04 exhaust flange, call 1-800-738-8726 and ask for Scott. They are located in Phoenix.
You could probably weld the new flang on over the old one then port it out, or do what others have done and use the old port as a place for the waste gate, and punch out a hole further forward on the exhaust manifold for the turbo.
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Something I noticed about my t04b/t3 hybrid is that the car isn't so freaking touchy now. Before I would give it a little throttle and boost would sneak up on me quick and the car would act like I put my foot into it. Pretty jerky effect, I guess the larger 65mm throttle body played a large part in this combined with the small compressor. This quick respons I had lead me to believe I would have a lot more power if I gave it the rest of the pedal, but nope, not much left after that uncontrolable peak.
Now the car is much more driveable on the streets. Boost is much more predictable and the trasition is smoother.
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Check out ebay, and thepartstrader.com
The V trim is a T04B compressor with a 2.180" inducer, and 2.750" major. There is a "Super" V trim that has a 3" major that turbonetics sells, and is better for higher boost.
The inducer is the diamter accross the top part of the compressor wheel, the major is the diameter of the back of the compressor wheel, which must also match the compressor backing plate.
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The Mercedes 450SL injectors were too large for me. I was always running rich with them even if I shorted out the head temp sensor wires! I was running them on a 2.4L, so a 2.8L may be able to take on a bit more fuel, but still, I'd use an adjustable fuel presure regulator with them.
The Mustang SVO/Merkur XR4Ti injectors were a better fit for me. I still run a little rich at idle, but things even out when under boost.
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Hey guys, my cooling down kinda snow balled into being a turbo upgrade. Which should also be considered as cooling down intake air with the higher effeciency at higher boost levels. As stated in a previous post I got my hands on a t04b with V trim compressor, I also had a 14 row starion intercooler that I had 2 1/2" pipes put on the sides to help it flow a little better. The dual electric fans have helped eminsly, they are OEM ones, one being off of a Puegott (sp?). Pulling air accross the oil cooler has helped as well. Here is a picture of the new t3/t4 installed:
That paint won't last too long, but it's nice for the picture.
Here is a picture of the new 2 1/2" mandrell pumbing, and fan.:
What a difference this made for the car. I'm only running around 8 pounds of boost and am having traction problems in the lower gears. What a blast, and it is now consistantly fast, not just when it's cool out side.
Still not making as much horse power as my Supra MKIII Turbo next to it, however, the car is faster because of the weight difference.
I'll update to this thread soon on my 1/4 mile time from what my G Tech says. My car weighs around 2550 pounds with me in it, and I expect a low 14 second run, or a high 13's. My L24 is getting a little tired, quite a bit of blow by is passing through. I suspect the rings are starting to let go. I have a F54 block with turbo pistons that I will likely swap in after a little bit.
Thanks for the imput on the last thread!
I'll jump right back in where I left off. As I've said before I still need an exhaust system, drive line modded, and intercooler piping. I would almost like to make my own intake manifold before I do intercooler piping because I want to have a smoother route and a larger throttle body. I've got the CV adapters, and will probably start putting those on this week, but I still have an open diff, so I guess I'll have to put a LSD on the list of parts to get.
Who knows though, the same guys that designed the engine could be some of the same type that designed the chassis.
i got an idea
in Fuel Delivery
Posted
I've been getting more and more into electronics. I think by setting up the AFM so that the full range is used with your engine and then modifing the map with a piggy back computer is the way to go for those of us who have upgraded injectors.
I've had such a hard time getting my car to idle well AND have good power under boost. Most of the time my car is running rich just so that if the AFM doesn't react quick enough I have some room. The reason why my AFM isn't reacting quick enough sometimes is because I have to have the thing tightened down more than it should be.
I will be working on a piggy back system for myself, and hopefully evolving it to a full engine management system down the road. If my setup proves to work well you guys will be the first to know about it and I will offer it at the best price I possibly can. To keep the piggy back system cheap I'll probably limit it to only taking in inputs from the head temp, RPM, o2 sensor, and AFM posistion. If we believe that the stock timing is not a major problem, then for sake of keeping it cheap I don't think I'll play with it. The mods required would be splicing about 6 harness wires, and you would have to program it with a computer. We could share our configureations over the net, and a default setup would be included. It would cost you around $60 for what I have in mind.
Let me know if this is something you guys would be interested in, and if it would be worth the money. Also, what other features would you like? I could probably setup a true closed loop setting so that fuel management is controled directly by the o2 sensor. Possibly could do data logging, but not certain on how much data could be stored. Feel free to email me directly on this, and if you are into electronics help me brain storm.