Tony240ZT
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Posts posted by Tony240ZT
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People have tried to get them to work with the stock efi system on z cars, but have had issues. In particular not getting the correct RPM input, but I don't understand because our ignition system is pretty standard.
If you can adapt the system you MAY be able to get it to adapt a MAF to your car.. But this would take a LOT of trial and error, and a little bit of re-wiring, but only about 3 wires..
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It almost looks like the turbo would be sitting right on the steering column. Is there any interferance? I've seen some VG30ET swaps where the column needed to be relocated a little.
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If you can get the intake manifold off then it should be cake..
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I'm running one of those sandwich plates on my L24et from perma cool. I think I'm running -8an lines to the oil cooler, and then on the return I have a T that goes off to a -3 AN SS braided line for oil feed to the turbo.
I then took one of those turbo oil feed flanges and welded a 1/2" nut on top so that that I could easily get a fitting on there to put the AN feed line on.
For the return I took my oil pan off, welded about an inch of one inch diameter pipe on, drilled it out. Then it was fairly easy to just get a hose and hook up the return off of the turbo into the oil pan. Put the return line above the oil line.
The reason why the oil return line is so much larger than the feed is because only gravity is pulling it down to the pan, and the oil after going through the hot turbo gets a little frothy. You don't want any back up or the oil will cook, so put the oil return hole in the pan higher than the oil level usually sits.
Here is the perm cool oil cooler sandwich plate page http://perma-cool.com/Catalog/Cat_page28.html
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Impedance will match up fine.
I have another set laying around if anyone is interested. They have 100K miles on them so could use a cleaning.. Sorry, don't have the harness plugs for them.
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I think that flange is for the non internal waste gated turbos. I don't think it will bolt up to the back of the t3 on the z car.
Consider the fact that the t3 on volvos, saabs, etc.. All have different ways they bolt up their down pipe to the turbo.
Scotty had a flange made up that would bolt up to the back of our turbos and that's what I used to make my down pipe with.
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I've seen other custom setups done like that before. No reason why it wouldn't work.
Use some anti seaze on those bolts holding the back plate on.
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Going to take a little bit of work to bolt up the T25 to your exhaust manifold. I guess if it's an AWESOME deal then don't pass it up, but still the t25 is way small, expecially with only a .42 a/r. It might be fine for only 10psi, but then again a stock t3 would be perfectly fine, and spool super fast with better flow.
If the price is too hard to pass up I'd take the t04 compressor off and bolt it up to your t3 turbine housing. Bolt your t3 compressor up to the t25 and sell it on ebay. Oh, also keep the water cooled center section.
Is this what you had in mind?
How large is the compressor?
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That's pretty awesome. From the look of it on that dyno run you could have gotten a bit more mid range if it didn't run lean.
Like someone else stated $4500 isn't all too bad for that kind of performance out of an NA L6, but is still quite a large investment per horse power.
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How much did you estimate your car weighing, my `73 with an auto tranny, fully equipped with half a tank of gas weighed in at 2350 pounds, put me in it and it weighs about 2520 or so.
I'm no expert at this calculation deal so I just did a quick look up on yahoo for the calculators and put in your trap speed and weight at 2600 pounds and see estimated horse power at 158. I'm assuming this is to the wheels.
Here are a couple sites I tried:
http://tnmotorsports.com/dyno.htm
http://www.torinocobra.com/horsepower.htm
Oh by the way, my friend weighed his `73 with a manual tranny and it was quite a bit lighter, but he didn't have bumpers on it either. I think he was about 60-80 pounds less, don't remember exactly.
It's not as easy as you'd like it to be to get 200+ hp out of these things. 14.8 1/4 isn't bad though.
Correct me if I'm wrong in using those pages as calculators.
On the other hand 200+ to the wheels with a small turbo, and efi system on the L6 is very streetable, and easy to obtain.
Z-Gad is your block over bored .040in or is the head shaved some? If shaved to get 10:1 CR did you have to spacer up your cam towers?
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I would be interested in seeing engine bay photos, and dyno sheets. Also would be intereseted to hear just how much a built NA L series would cost.
I've seen quite a bit of NA guys saying they are making lots of power, but have rarely seen dyno sheets. Please enlighten me.
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As I was telling Scotty earlier, the 2nd gen rx7 leading coil pack is a great performer at an awesome price. The coil pack is setup to fire two spark plugs at a time (so you would have wasted spark), and the igniter is built into them. The igniter is easy to interface with most aftermarket systems. Just supply +12 volts and the computer gives it a ground signal, and then the coil fires (the high current ground is pulled through the coil's dedicated ground wire, not the computer).
I'm using the igniters to drive my stock coil packs on my 7m-gte, since the toyota igniter was more difficult to interface with.
The coils with igniters (they bolt together) can be had for about $15 a peice, for a 6 cylinder you'd need 3, so $45 worth of these guys should be more than enough to drive 400+ horses.
I'm assuming the distributorless system allows you to control ignition timing at all load points/RPM points. Also you get the advantage of using multiple coil packs for a stronger spark.
For not much more money than the SDS you could jump into the Wolf3D, which has a hand held device with limited realtime data logging/map adjustment. For full resolution view/control you plug in a laptop. The Wolf3D can easily use the 280zxt distributor as a crank trigger sensor, or even use the `81 crank trigger setup, so you could save some money there by not having to pay for a custom trigger setup. The Wolf3D has a more modern processor, capable of higher RPM, and more aux. I/O's. The hand held has a lot of feed back that I think is well worth the extra couple hundred, you could spend that much in the guages that it replaces easily. My setup was $1500 shipped with a modifed crank angle sensor.
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Turbo looks to be an unused Roto-Master. Compressor side is a T04B with V trim wheel, .60 A/R. Turbine is P trim (pretty sure), with a 1.15 A/R housing (T04 as well).
I'd like to get a .81 A/R turbine housing on it, I guess they are $190 from turbonetics, should I look for a better deal?
Will likely upgrade the compressor to at least a T04E housing when I get the cash. Does the T series bolt up to the t4 center section?
Check out the tight turn I have to make off the back of the turbine, only have like 7 1/2" to make the job, and I'd like to use 3" pipe. Also the compressor outlet is a little tight, right next to the header. Maybe I'll spacer the turbo up a little bit to get a little more room to work with.
Getting a little dusty...
Not much room to fit 2 1/2" intercooler pipe in there, but I think I can make it fit. Compressor housing looks like it's been dropped on, but all else is fine.
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I've heard that the stock chopper wheel works fine, but the z31 one has a larger gap for TDC. I would think that'd make a difference, but I guess not.
You are correct, the NA ignition map is not what you are looking for on your turbo setup. Maybe an aftermarket ignition system can help tune you in, but most of those are pretty pricy.
Hope others can help you in diagnosing the problem.
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I'd save that little SR20 to put in your 240sx, roadster, 510.. Put a RB series into the Z car, it'll look much more at home in there, and make power easier.
You could make the same or more power with the L28ET with less hassle, simple drop in motor, no fabricating mounts, no fabbing drive line, no rare parts.
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Would love to see pics of the damage. I'm glad your block is doing well. I bet I have similar problems with my NA pistons in the L24ET, but I still push that little thing to 13psi and still loven the G's. Will keep pushing the bottom end until it goes south, and hopefully it doesn't take the turbo along with it.
I'd go with replacing what's broken, getting the stand alone, and a nice front mount intercooler. If you have a little money left over you could upgrade to CV's, put rear disks on, and work on that external waste gate setup you were talking about, maybe even play around with different turbo sizes if you get bored
. Since reading about the fact that people are making 350 to the wheels on 100K+ mile internals your new internals should really hold together as long as you keep the knocks down.Perhaps you'd like to get the car on the dyno with the new engine management system. Lots of people are saying it's worth the money to tune on the dyno.
Also consider spending money on an adjustable fuel presure regulator, electronic boost controler, larger injectors, custom intake manifold, that tubular header you were talking about, hmmm.. does the list ever stop? I know mine doesn't.
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The intake manifold is off of a japanese imported engine off of a 280zx NA.. The valve covers that are on those engines are pretty cool. Just say "NISSAN" on them. I have one off getting powerder coated.
That color on the valve cover looks great. Is it powder coated, or engine paint? Was it clear coated after the top of it was polished?
Here is the intake manifold on my L24ET in the orange car, I did some work on it first, and bolted on a 65mm throttle body w/no problems. Ya, I have to paint my intake pipes soon.
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The trick with that paint is to put it on thin so that it can expand/contract with the metal without cracking. Using degreeser before hand helps a bunch too..
On my orange car I painted my exhaust manifold and turbine housing with that stuff and it's still doing fairly well. A while back I tried it on some other exhaust manifold, put it on too thick and within the first run it was pealing off all over.
still doesn't last longer than a year or so though, I think.
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I was looking at his auctions as well.. Was wondering if I should go with a .82 a/r turbine housing with the stage III wheel on my DOHC 3.0L supra engine. I thought if the L series SOHC with smaller displacement could push .63 a/r why couldn't a 3.0, DOHC, header, 3" exhaust, big fmic push the larger a/r..
Also my 2.4L is running the stock .63 a/r with a t04b compressor very easily. The thing spins up super quick.
Anyone else believe the .82 a/r would be best, or should I go with a .63? Looking to make a little over 400 to the wheels (hopefully pump gas will get me there), and looking for good 1/4 mile times. 60-1 compressor sounds great for what I'm looking for, just confused about turbine side. I have a 1.25" waste gate port if that helps in the equation.
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T-Bolt clamps shouldn't cut the hose, unless you have some really soft silicone.. You should get the hoses that have some fabric mesh in them.
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I got my water cooled center section out of a 300zx (z31), also can get them out of Saab 900's..
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Hope we'll see your engine over 20psi with the stand alone and good intercooler. I have a set of 440cc/min injectors if they would help, but I can help you find a set of 550's out of rx7's if you'd like.
I need to get my orange car to the track to see my times with 14psi. The modded starion IC seems to be handling it okay. What was your best time so far with the t04e compressor?
Have you done any minor porting of the cylinder head? If not would probably help a little to get that nasty casting junk out of there.
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Do you think you'll be going with forged pistons, ARP fasteners and metal head gasket this time? Let me know if you need pictures hosted of your internal's damage.
Wouldn't the external wastegate help keep the wasted exhaust from bothering the path of the exhaust coming out the back of the turbine? Sounds like a good thing to me.
Do you have boost creep?
A modified turbo back plate/down pipe would probably help quite a bit though by giving a smoother run from the waste gate port into the down pipe, I think Scottie's down pipe on the GN is like that? That sharp bend in the case just can't be good when trying to flow a lot of air out of that little hole.
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I'm interested in what you're doing about your tranny as well since my old 3 speed slips a lot under load now (orange car). I was going to go with the starquest tranny like you had, but am not sure. Although I'm not planning on making as much power I think it's possible I'll see around 320 to the wheels some day. Should the starquest tranny hold that with no problems?
. Since reading about the fact that people are making 350 to the wheels on 100K+ mile internals your new internals should really hold together as long as you keep the knocks down.
whats with the apexi afc??
in Fuel Delivery
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Sorry, didn't know how much you knew or didn't..
If I had the cash I'd give it a try. It does the same thing my little custom setup does. Wish I had my package ready for you guys, but it looks like I'm going to be doing some body work on the orange car for a little while instead of electronic stuff.