Tony240ZT
-
Posts
559 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by Tony240ZT
-
-
I have a sandwich plate on my orange Z with the L series, got it from perma cool. Am using a B&M oil cooler. I have one of the Rx7 coolers laying around and was hoping to use it on my silver car, but it may be too larger to fit in with my FMIC. They are super nice!
I T'd off of the oil return line from the cooler with a SS braided line half the size of the main engine oil feed for the turbo.
-
Would love to see pics.. You've been working on it for some time now. I love to read up on your progress, sorry I can't ever be of much help, just never got into the vg30's..
That's going to be one awesome truck.
-
There's a much more simple solution to this and I can build you a little circuit that will handle it if you are interested for cheap.
It won't require a certain amount of rpm or mph to be reached, but in most cases it's not necessary to check those things. If you'd like I can start working on something and I promise I can get something less than $20 made up for ya that will be easy to wire in.
-
The yellow wire is used only for the gauge only, and is not used by the ecu for fuel mixture. The white wire is plugged into the thermal switch that turns on the fuel injector aux. fan.
Just plug your old 240z temp wire into the temp sensor. I had an up close picture of this some where that I used to show someone else but can't find it right now. Pretty easy to tell the difference between the two plugs though because if you plug into the thermal fan switch it won't show any temp on the gauge.
-
The Z31 ecu uses a clone of a Motorolla MC6802 which is an 8 bit processor. There are PC emulators out there for this processor, but I don't know if anyone out of Jim Wolf Tech, and Nissan them selves know how the code works. There's someone on this list, sorry I'm bad with names, that was able to get the machine code out of the processor and convert it to assembly.
I have some experience with Motorolla's HC11 family of 8 bit processors which was built off of the MC6800 family, but I haven't gotten into the details of the MC6800, so I can't tell you if you could simply change some constants set in the chip's EEPROM, or if you'd have to put in a new EPROM with modified values.
Anyways, since the technical knowlege on these systems are not as widely spread as the GM ecu's you'd have to do quite a bit of work yourself to change anything. I'd love to have a few of us get together on the side so we don't clutter up the thread and figure these things out.
-
In the middle of writing some windows software to program the thing right now. Found it hard to adjust fuel map points by typing in each figure.
Also working on a peice of software to do real time graphing data logging. Will require a laptop, so if you don't have one it would be worth borrowing from a buddy because it'll make you feel like your in a modern formula one race car
I've been adding things as I go, such as a couple temp sensors for comparing ambient temp, temp after compressor, temp after intercooler. I'm hoping to make things like this and an air/fuel ratio gauge like optional plug-in modules.
I get so wrapped up in adding things that I don't finish the core object, but I think writing this software to make it easier to adjust the fuel map will help that along greatly.
I think I'll take the idea from SDS and have a richness knob that can be used to help tune the car.
Will definately be doing more work on the project this week, mostly programming. Will keep you guys posted with screen shots and possibly videos of my car running with the setup. Also, will need for you guys to test the software and make sure it runs on your computers.
Here is a pic of a Basic Stamp, also considering BasicX wich is a 32bit multi tasking processor, and a plain old PIC16C782. The PIC processor is cheapest, but has a slight higher learning curve.
-
The most difficult is figuring out between a yellow wire that's used for temp and power to the ECU, and another yellow wire with white stripe is either A/C stuff or coil trigger wire. These wires that are in the same damn plug can confuse you if you don't keep track of things. Also there is no wire to ground the coil igniter (mounted on the coil's base), it gets ground by being screwed into the chassis, this threw me for a loop.
Everything else is pretty strait forward, just plug it in the same way it was plugged into on the ZXT. I didn't use the relay that is on the passenger side, and didn't use the circuit that turns on the fuel pump, so that further simplified wiring. Just wireing the fuel pump to come on with the ignition.
-
I'm not sure, but I think my small amount of writing is about the closest right now, I've got some pictures I've posted to others on the list. Maybe I'll put it all into one page some day, or if I go crazy, a book.
http://www.zhome.com/~aktar/zcar/73/turbofi/
Let us know if you have any questions, I'd even consider helping out of the phone if you needed it.
-
I'm running about 13 pounds of boost on a high mileage stock L24 bottom end with a P90 head. t3/t04b turbo, medium sized front mount intercooler, 280zxt electronics, 370cc/min injectors, 2 1/2" exhaust. I'm using the turbo oil pump, oil cooler, and turbo head bolts.
My compression ratio is pretty low 7.56:1 though, and that helps a lot.
I've had pleanty of fun with my setup, although I do plan to go with a L28ET bottom end at some point. If you haven't turboed before using a crappy block to learn on may be a good idea. That way you learn what you should do when you go lean, or ping. The learning part is what takes life away from your bottom end.
-
Usually retorque after 2 weeks or 500 miles or so. Probably wouldn't hurt to do it now.
-
The OD of the larger TB is 3", the old one was probably 2 3/4", so the J pipe would have to be modified probably.
If you want the car to really perform you'll be wanting to install an intercooler, which will force you to replace the J pipe anyways.
You can buy aftermarket TB's probably for the price of a bran new mercedes tb..
-
Pretty pricy living in the Bay area isn't it? Would rather be living in hicksvill if it meant I could mod my car.
-
Maybe ScottyMIz will see this post and tell you how he used the stock linkage, and didn't have to mess around with the TPS like I did.
I mounted mine upside down because it seemed to be the easiest way to do the throttle cable hookup, I had to reverse the outside wires on the TPS plug to fix the issue with the throttle body being turned around.
As shown in the pictures using a rat tail file you simply file inwards on the mounting holes, then plug that PVC hole with something, or use it for a blow off valve port. It's not much work to get it mounted. I'd say it takes more time to port match. I had no problem going 65mm on my intake manifold, and I think there are about 3 other people on this list that have had no problems. At first it looks questionable as to if there is enough room, but there is.
-
-
MKIII Turbo injectors are 440cc/min and are low impedance and should work with the stock efi system if you can accomidate that large of an injector some how. They are o-ringed, and probably need some way to be pressed down into the bungs..
-
Hey, I'm in Bakersfield, bring it on over this weekend, and look at my toys.
-
I'm thinking the digital inputs/outputs on the AEM are probably counters (like square wave inputs), or it simply senses if something is on or off. Digital inputs would be like RPM, WOT.. Digital output would probably be used to pulse a air bypass for either idle control or boost control, also it should be able to turn on NO2, or a secondary fuel pump/fans, whatever.
Here is the data sheet on the ADC I use:
http://www.national.com/ds/AD/ADC0831.pdf
It explains how it uses 3 wires to transfer the data in and out. The actual frequency that I get the ADC data is dependant on both the processor and chip. I had no problem trying to get data as fast as possible out the ADC, so my processor can't over ride the ADC's i/o speed. The ADC chip and the pic micro both talk TTL which means 0v is low (0) and 5 volt is high (1).
I just spit out the data in tab delimited format, with returns after each reading for the set of ADC's collected. This is easily imported as as .csv file into excel. Then writing functions in excel you can convert the numbers to voltage levels, load levels, graphs, or whatever.
Check out http://www.basicstamp.com/ for an easy to use pic micro setup. You can use basic to program it, and you don't need any special hardware to program the things, just a pc and a serial cable. The BasicX looks like a Basic Stamp on steriods. If you get into the stamp I can help with setting up a system similar to what I have, also I should have a BasicX today and I'll start playing.
-
I've talked with others in detail on my swap, and my web page has some pictures. Should be enough to get an idea on how much money you'd spend, and what skills are required.
-
Actually I just found a new chip that I think I like a lot (just ordered one) called the BasicX at http://www.basicx.com/ it has interupts, 32bit math, built in ADC's, real time clock, multi tasking all built into it's Basic programming language.
The 8 bit ADC I was using is called ADC0831CCN by National electronics. I talk to it with the PIC mirco by shifting in and out bits over a 3 wire serial protocol (TTL (0v is low 5v high)). There are a couple options, but the most important bits are the 8 that give you the voltage level. The chip work from 0 - 5 volts (digital count 0-255), but you can use an op amps (like a commen anolog 324 or 740), and resitors to size up any DC voltage level to within this range.
I've set it up to read in the MAF info, then produce an anolog voltage level using a Texas Insterments 12bit DAC TLC5618aip, no reason for 12 bits, 8 is best I can do really. Same way of talking with it as I do the ADC, shifting bits over a serial protocal. Again, I can use an op amp to up it's output voltage above 5v if need be.
Currently I'm just running full balls out at computing and spitting out this data at 9600 baud. With this other chip that has multi tasking built in I'll be able to do other things while talking over the serial cable to my computer.
If you know how to write programs in VB to communicate with the serial port please fill me in on the details, this is something I'd like to write so that I can make a real time data logging graph. I know how to write the graphing setup (done pleanty of drawing), just haven't jumped into serial i/o yet. Also would be nice to be able to modify a visual map on the computer, then upload it to the BasicX, I should be able to do this in real time since the chip is multi tasking now.
-
Has to be 200% better than a starion intercooler.
-
Yep, cam timing could do it. It's done it to me before when the chain slipped. Damn broken cam timing tooth, replaced cam wheel found tooth, put chain on, all is better.
-
This logger I built is pretty custom. I'm using a PIC Micro 16 bit processor that runs at around 25Mhz, along with a couple 8 bit anolog to digital chips. And then I just have all of the data spit out at 9600 baud onto a terminal program, log it, save and then import into excel.
It can even drive a digital to anolog chip to generate any voltage level I'd like to trick out the stock ecu. This is the whole idea of this little piggy back computer system I'm making to convert AFM cars to run on MAF. I'm slow at getting things done, but I'll get there.
I'm wondering how much of the cpu power I should put to each sensor. I wonder if I should queue every sensor I have on every cycle, or maybe just some more than others.
I'll post more data as I get it. I think I know how to convert the nissan ecu pulses for rpm into a digital number with my chip, just wondering where to take it from. I guess right at the wire that plugs into the coil trigger.
If I hooked up fuel injector drivers I could probably directly control fuel. The processor doesn't have interupts, so it may be a waste of my time trying. When you don't have interupts you have to constantly check to see if an event has occured (like what degree the crank is at), with interupts the processor can be doing other things get a blip from the crank angle sensor compute that and then go back to what it was doing before.
We have some old Motorola HC11's here that might do the job, just not much fun dealing with 8 bit. I need a cheap processor that is easy to work with that has interupts and 16 bit computation.
Okay, I'm out of geek mode now. Back to motor head world. Just put a big carb on that thing, with a wild cam. Oh wait I went too far. Boost, intercooler, nos! okay, back to normal.
-
You're right, sounds like you're going lean. Definately try replacing the fuel filter.
Does it have any problem starting when it's cold, or rough idle? If a fuel injector wasn't pulsing the car would still start, but would run pretty rough.
Would be nice if you had the that fuel presure gauge in a place you could see it. When I'm having issues I'll run a long peice of hose up so that I can strap the gauge on the cowl, leaving the hood only latched to run the fuel line through.
-
Can't wait to hear about Scotty's turbo ninja
Oil Cooler Idea....
in Miscellaneous Tech
Posted
I put on the turbo on at the same time as putting on the cooler, and I changed my oil pump so hard to say exactly with all of the changes.
Anyways, I'd say my oil presure acts about the same as it did when the engine was a NA with SU's and old pump.
Oil cooler gets pretty warm when I drive hard, but not so bad if I'm just cruising, over all I'd say it does it's job well. I've got some pretty big lines going into the thing, and it has some good sized fittings on it. Maybe since I have an aftermarket one it flows more than some OEM ones, but no proof.
There's probably only one perfect sized oil cooler for a particular engine, but how to figure that one out and if it really makes too difference is another question that may not matter all that much in the end. These engines last pretty dang long as is, even without oil coolers.
Running a center piece in your turbo that allows you to run water may help more than a larger cooler, who knows.
The RX7 cooler is by far the cheapest and largest you can get your hands on, that's the only answere I'm really sure about