Tony240ZT
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Posts posted by Tony240ZT
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AEM has been selling the Wolf3D system from Austrailia for a few years. It is a great system at a fair price. It does data logging, which can be seen on its hand held LCD display, or on a computer. It supports multiple fuel/ignition maps through a memory cartrige. You can switch between the two when ever you'd like, and make map changes on the fly. Supports multi coil packs and sequential spark and fuel up to 4 cylinders, and then does paired batch fuel/wasted spark on 2 cylinders at a time with 6/8/12 cylinders. Supports staged injection, has auxilory inputs and outputs, rpm switches, electric fan switch, and the system is adaptable to a lot of engines easily. Can even use a stock 280zx turbo distributor with the stock trigger wheel, or they can supply a crank trigger system for you.
http://www.wolfems.com/ for the US site and http://www.wolfems.com.au/ for the OZ site. I have the system installed on my toyota 7m-gte engine, and Pete Sanders has the system on his L28ET. It will drive many types of injectors, I have a set of 550cc/min Rx7 injectors in my setup.
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Looks like Scotty's B2000 pickup truck with a L28E running with a `76 280Z EFI system can help me with the 280Z setup as well as the L28ET info from his Z car.
Thanks Scotty!
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Yes, my engine is going to be different. The whole idea of the system is flexability, and customizing the map to your car. I will probably need some help from people with commen setups to get a good solid base fuel map for those engines. I have my 280ZX NA to get an anolog system working for those cars, my 280zx is stock. I could use someone to help me with an anolog system for a 280Z. And I could use someone with a pretty much stock L28ET (stock block, injectors, and t3 turbo), it would be great if that person could run their car with my system intercooled and non intercooled to have a comparison. A laptop is needed for data logging.
Cusp, what is your engine setup, and what kind of features would you be looking for? Do you think you would be mostly interested in the cheaper anolog system or the full featured digital system?
Here is a web page I've wipped up for it, please feel free to correct any errors. The 3D modeling was done by myself, so please ask before using any of my images.
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The car was running on the AFM while collecting numbers. I need to find a good relationship between the two to get a starting point for my fuel map. I had the MAF strapped on right infront of the AFM, wired up, but not talking with the Nissan ECU.
I'm waiting for a new head temperature sensor to come in from Courtesy, I think mine is off a bit. Then I'll run and collect data again, find the relationship, and program it as my base fuel map, then start tweaking as needed from there.
I've had the car idling with the MAF and it does idle noticeably smoother. I had to manually enter all of the possible load points for an idle to get it to work, and that's not much fun. So, I'm now working on a windows application that will simplify setting it up and tweaking.
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The carbed turbo setup is a way to go. I've tried it myself with a draw through SU with a t3. I figured I could have a slightly better performing 240z and something special without a big investment and no weires. As anyone that has done any tinkering on their car finds out, horse power is adictive. A nicely setup carbed system was going to cost me more than a junk yard EFI system, and was probably going to give me less performance and more greef.
Now adays there are EFI systems out in the junk yard that are inexpencive that would be far better for the application.
From experience, it's just hard to get a hold on the air fuel ratio and keep it consistant. Gas mileage isn't all that great, and there is a lot of maintenance.
If it's what drives you then go for it, but if you want to go with an EFI system I'll help you with with any questions you may have, and even tell you stuff you don't want to know
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Just wanted to give you guys something to let you know that the project that I was talking about where I was going to get a MAF working on a stock 280ZX Turbo ECU/Harness is still in motion.
I did a little bit of data logging while driving my orange 240zt around with the blue line being output from the AFM and brown data from the Z31 MAF. The figures have been manipulated a little bit so that they are compareable. Here is a snippit from my drive around the block:
Notice that the MAF (brown) seems to have more steps, is not quite as jerky, and it has a greater range of sensitivity. These are just a couple great reasons why those old AFMs should be swapped out. The major reason for me to do this is because my AFM has to be pretty tight to get it to idle with the larger injectors, making it really restrictive on the high side.
My car with the AFM has been running on the rich side, so I expected the blue (AFM) to be higher. The output after offsetting, inverting, and multiplying come out to be very compareable, so I think that I could make a system that is fully anolog and not programable for cheap, like say under $30, still allowing for slight adjustment, maybe just enough to run larger injectors without a problem.
The digital system will have many more features, and I'll be working to get it done first, as I think my car will really liven up with a custom fuel map since I have that little L24 that makes hardly any power until that mad t3/t4 turbo spools. I'm having to run good sized injectors to have that top end and I'd like to have a good idle.
I do expect to have an anolog system for the 280Z, and 280ZX NA, if I can get my hands on a 280Z test car. For Z31 guys I will do what I can to help you out, and I think you guys will require a digital system.
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I would almost think that splitting the voltage output into 2 on both of them would work well. You do this by using two resistors of equal amount one connected to the output of the AFM/MAF the other is connected to ground, connect the two together and then hook your computer sensor wire up there in the middle of the two resistors. Do this for both the main output and temp.
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I'm pretty sure the 280z tach is pretty standard and the line that drives the tach wouldn't have any different output than the one coming out of a MSD system.
You should find out what kind of signal the system requires. Call the company maybe? If the signal comming from the 280z is not compatable maybe I can work on something to make it work for you, but I would need to know exactly what the SAFC is expecting like the pulse width duration, and voltage levels.
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Would taking the RPM from the - side of the coil, or trigger be any different than from the computer?
The deal I'm building is a SAFC and it will work for the 300zx setup, but I'm not taking in very much data, just info from the MAF.
I donno if it matters, but the TPS is a points type and not a linear potentia meter type like some SAFC's and other similars may require. By points I mean a connection is made with the center pin and an outer pin at idle, then at WOT the other outer pin is shorted with the middle pin. The 280zxt only has 2 TPS wires, to let the computer know the car is at idle, or not, that's it!
Anyways, my project is getting closer to being done. I have one chip that can't deal with the under the hood temps, so I guess I'll have to use long wires and bring it inside the cabin. I have about 150 physical adjustable load points.
So the SAFC doesn't have a harness plug of any sort? You have to just tap into the wires you need? That sounds kinda messy. I hope to make everything just plug right in, except for +12v and Gnd.
Let me know how it goes, and I'd like to know where you find adjustment is needed. Are you trying to get it working so that you can use larger injectors? If so what size. Do you expect to get the car on a dyno to get it tuned well, or just going by its data logger? Does it have a data logger? How about an interface to a computer?
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Hi there, and welcome to the group. Sorry I don't have a lot of time to respond right now, so if you can get back with specific questions later then I'll get back to them.
Your stock fuel pump will do for the stock engine, hold onto the other fuel pump just incase yours dies.
Your drive shaft will not work with the turbo Borg Warner T5 tranny. You will need the drive shaft out of the 280zx Turbo manual car. It then needs to be shortened a little bit (like 3 inches) and the tranny requires a little bit of mods to fit in the car, like being set back on the mounts about 1 inch. There is a web site out there that covers it all. I think I have a link to it off of my web page, it's Brian Littles Z Barn. I'm not sure on ratios, either 5 speed trannies will be fine though, others should fill in on that.
For the wires, start with a 280zx haynes manual to get a good idea about how the system is laid out. I and others on the list can help with specifics. You can probably search for the topic and you'll find where I've writen a bit on the wiring to others.
Keep an eye out for a good sized intercooler, it will turn up the grin factor.
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Sounds like the z31 system is better suited for higher horse power numbers out of the box.
I'm sure the system could be reprogrammed, but as to who has the knowledge to do so is another question that may have you running in circles.
Does the system support multiple coil packs? I think the Grand National setup is a well proven flexable system with many options (sequential injection fire, I think multi coil pack, knock sensor, ready to boost!, and many ways to adjust things). If you're thinking of going to a completely new setup maybe you should consider the GN setup.
Also I've noticed a MKIII Supra Turbo out in the junk yard. There are a lot of wires to the system, but in stock form with 440cc/min injectors, batch fire, multi coil pack config the supra will make 290hp at the crank. It supports 2 knock sensors, and picks up crank possition from a cam possition sensor that rotates twice clock wise for every crank rotation (magnetic pickups could be adapted to any crank). HKS makes a fuel cut defender to boost more, a sport fuel and timing piggy back computer (for different sized injectors), a Vein Presure Converter setup to rid of the MAF (for different injector sizes), and a BCC to fine tune things.
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The L28 NA install should be just the same as the turbo setup, just some slightly different programming on my part.
I'd like to be able to reprogram the ecus for the 300zx. To properly control timing, I think that's the best thing to do. As to weather program changes will need to be done with the 280z/x/t is yet to be known.
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I haven't installed the 300zx setup, am going to adapt the 300zx maf to the 280zxt ecu though since lots of people are running with that setup. Should have the parts in tomorrow to start playing. Will work on adapting the maf to 280z and na 280zx, and possibly L series maxima or others that are similar with interest.
My setup will allow for the maf output to be fully adjustable, allowing use of larger injectors, different engine configureation, ect. Hope to have a package deal for Z car owners for under $120. It's basicly a piggy back system that is programable with a PC.
The main problem with people going with the stock 300zx setup is the lack of injector pulse control, making it so that you have to run stock sized injectors, or have JWT reprogram it for big $$$ and still not be exact for your engine setup. Although realizing JWT has put a lot of time into their product and mine is still on the drawing board, so consider Ron's offer if that's what you're looking for.
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I've messed with 8 bit motorola processors, and HC11. I have a 300zx turbo ECU laying around if you could tell me how to probe the thing I may be able to help.
If it's a different architecture than I'm used to I could probably pick it up quickly.
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You can manually do the cleaning yourself by grounding pins C, D then apply 12V to E, and F. This will make the wire glow. Do this for about 1 second.
I think C and D are usually grounded while the car is on, and E gets power while the car is on, so if you wanted to control the cleaning from inside the car all that you'd have to do is apply 12V to pin F. I think pin F is only used as a signal to turn up the power, the current flows through E. So, no relay would be required. Really simple, here is the layout.
After you turn off your car, turn the ignition back to on and now you can do the cleaning while the car is not running.
You should get one of those push button switches that don't click and stay on, just one of those buttons that are only on when you physicly have your finger on it because you only want to do this for about 1 second.
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Here is a little eye candy for those who don't get to see it happen in person.
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InitialZ do you program them yourself? If so I'd love to learn more about the hardware and code. If you can share any info I'd be very greatful. Lots of info out there on GM hardware, but close to none on the Nissan stuff.
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Had mine done a little under a year ago, very happy. Agreed best money spent.
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What kind of horse power are you looking to make?
I've heard of a couple guys making around 350hp at the wheels with stock internals and a t04e compressor, keeping with the stock t3 turbine housing and going to like a stage III turbine wheel. Fuel system upgrades are required, along with a good sized intercooler.
Other mods would include fresh air intake, 3" exhaust system, larger throttle body, and most likely some modifications will have to be done on the engine management side.
Keep your eyes open for some gizmos for piggy back engine management that I will be offering in the near future.
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There are two sensors there at the thermostat housing. The one with the green wire coming out of it is a thermo switch that comes on when the engine gets hot enough to turn on the aux fuel injector fan. This doesn't effect the engine management.
The other wire which is yellow is for the gauge and doesn't effect engine management either.
The engine management relies on the head temp sensor and the air temp sensor as far as temp sensors go.
I took this picture a while back for visual reference on the same topic.
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Thanks a bunch!! That's EXACTLY what I was looking for. I'll let you know how it goes.
I'm actually adapting the z31 mass air to a 280ZX Turbo system using a PIC microprocessor, a few analog to digital chips and a few digital to analog chips.
Hopefully will be able to get a package deal out for the L28ET guys who want to rid of their door type AFM.
I will be controling the cleaning cycle myself, am not sure exactly how long the wire should be heated, but will not be using a speed sensor, will simply do the cleaning if rpm is taken above a certain amount.
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If you already have the fuel AIC and the Y pipe I'd just try that out. That would give you a chance to see how well the system works before you invest money into modifying your intake manifold. Just put the Y pipe right before.
If you find out later that the system isn't flexable enough for your needs then you can opt for the stand alone system. You may find you're happy with the 2 added injectors and the stock AFM/computer. Personally I've had many troubles trying to get a lot of horse power and keeping my A/F ratio correct with the AFM.
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I need all the information that I can get on the Z31's mass air flow meters. I'd like to know how much voltage is supplied to each pins, and which ones are used to read voltage levels (by the ecu). Also is one of the pins dedicated to cleaning the MAF?
I've done searches on Bosch MAF meters on the web with little results on details.
It would help if I had the engine wiring harness for a Z31. The harness is not in the Haynes manual, is there a conspiracy against knowlege?
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I'm thinking if I'm going as far as remapping things I might as well use a mass air flow meter. I think more people would be interested if they could convert to a commenly found MAF. I have a Z31 Turbo MAF laying around. I'm sure a non turbo one would work just as well. Part of my problem is due to the restrictive AFM, so it'd make me a lot happier.
apexi afc
in Fuel Delivery
Posted
Fill me in on what your engine setup is and maybe I can work you in as a tester. Which year of 280zxt ecu do you have, what size injectors, what size turbo, how much boost your running, intercooled?, do you have an air/fuel ratio guage, do you have access to a laptop computer?
Gimmie about 2 weeks or so, things are pretty hectic at work right now. I wish I could just dedicate my time to playing with cars some how.
Oh well, back to coding I go...