Geno750

I'm planning to replace the bolts it came with. I'll be going with grade 8 bolts and jet nuts. As for oil return, I'm going to convert to -10an and I think a 45degree fitting will clear.

More updates, and they should be more frequent from here on out now that I finished unpacking most of my tools. There is surprisingly quite a bit of adjustment possible with these mounts. Just about every hole is slotted, allowing for a total of approx. 2" of adjustment. I'll be removing my L28 from the car over the next few days, but for now here is what the mounts CX is selling look like. One issue I can see with these is the oil return for the turbo. I'm switching manifolds due to my turbo being internally gated.

Sorry to create the thread and then be really slow on updates. First off, you'll likely want to order new bolts to bolt the plates to the motor. Pictured are the stock motor mount bolts with the cx plate. Also, the stock bolts bottom out too soon. The mount bolts are M10x1.25 and a package of 25 25mm bolts from mcmaster is $8

I can already tell I don't like the bolts it came with, but that's an easy fix. I'd have pictures and more details but my 2mo old got rsv, and I've been with her in the nicu since. I do like how the mount connects to the crossmember though. I wasn't keen on the 550lb motor sitting on my cars 38 year old frame rails.

I accidentally posted my question on the faq clone of this thread so I'll repost here. With the updated 8610's is it possible to run them effectively with a 225F/250R spring rate or is it too light? I'd like to go 200/225 but that seems less of an option on the koni shock. Illuminas are presold till the end of July so I'm looking at alternative shock options and don't want to kill my kidneys in a car that will see primarily street use.

I'm having difficulty getting Illuminas, seems like they're back ordered till July/August. My car is going to be more street driven than track and I was looking at running 200/225 springs. It seems that this is too low for everything but the Illuminas?

I've got a ARK designs ABC digital boost controller. They're easy to setup and are very small. If I wasn't using an internally gated 8374EFR which has its own boost control solenoid with an aem infinity 6ecu I'd be keeping it. $250 shipped. Review: http://www.jt-culture.com/cars/ark-design-abc-active-boost-controller-review/

Mounts arrived today, but it's 6F outside. Only pics I'll have later today will be of the mounts on the block.

It seems our niche market was big enough for the guys at cx racing as they're making mounts for this swap. I bought a set, and will update my progress here. I can't comment on their trans mount as I'm using a 350z gearbox with my 1J.

I've got a question. Is it possible to use the input shafts from a r200 shortnose diff in a longnose? I'd like to swap in my shortnose r200 2way lsd. I'll also be picking up the t3 rear conversion plate that let's you use the 240sx wheel bearing and axles, but I'd prefer to not have to get their entire rear end conversion given all the parts I already have.

If you're going that route with a 1JZ, I'd suggest getting some LS coils and having the harness you're getting made setup for direct fire as well. The haltech makes running things like that easy.

You'd need a tune if you upgraded the injectors to anything beyond the 440cc injectors found in the Japanese 2JZGTE.

I've got a series 2 AEM on my dad's MK3 supra and it has been doing well. I am just more familiar with the Haltech software at this point, so my desire to learn something else isn't that great. Honestly if you're not going to tune the system yourself, research what the tuners near you are familiar with and include that in your decision process.

For the price, I think the AEM Infinity 8 comparable, and is arguably a better unit.

I run the P1000 on my 180sx, and have been leaning heavily towards using the P2000 on my 1JZ. The P1000 can only run 4 injectors/4 coils at a time.

If you're going to cross from a Toyota motor to Nissan trans why not go with a Z33 trans? They seem to be cheaper and more readily available than the Z32 box.

I was originally going to stick a SR20 into mine, but came across a complete 1J with MT harness and ECU for $900 shipped. I just happened to have a spare R154 so it seemed to be the way to go.

Very nice. I've finally got my 1JZ and found a 280z that I liked enough to buy...just in time for my job to decide I needed to move to Baton Rouge. This will be the car I look to for inspiration when I can resume working on mine.