Geno750

Just putting this out there, I've got a CD008 and the adapter plate, shortened shifter housing, all for $650 shipped via Grey hound.

A surge tank is probably the most definitive solution, but it won't keep the gauge from jumping around.

Yeah that Gap is normal. Skillard sells a different grill that fills in that area.

I would probably check out precision tuning. They're local to you and have a good reputation.

There's a QuickTime bellhousing available which is SFI certified, part number RM4030.

Very nice, I've been following your progress on the mounts. I'll be setting up my shell to receive components in a few weeks and see how I fare.

The clutch options are lacking, and the gearing is less than ideal now. Ironically if I kept the R200 long nose, its the exact same gearing as a 350Z. Using it in a 4.1 final equipped car though, and its kinda silly. The TR6060 should be more than capable of handling the power I'm making, and if not I can upgrade the guts, something you can't do on a CD box.

I went a few steps forward then back. Selling off my CD009 swap and going with a TR6060. So my car might be running this year... Seeing this is motivation to brave the cold and get wrenching though.

You can, if you pick the right T56. You'll need one with the 26 spline 1.125" input shaft. Then you'll need to get a center hub with the boss for a Nismo 6 speed/OS88 splined boss. Or if you're using the older HKS twin plate, clutch disks for the OS88 transmission. They use a 26 spline 28mm hub/disc which is the same.

There is, http://www.jegs.com/i/Quick-Time-Bellhousing/698/RM-7011/10002/-1

I'll have both a TR6060 (better T56) and a CD009 transmission in my garage here shortly. I'll be able to get the lengths of each. One nice thing about the CD009 that I recently learned is if you are using the R200 from a 280Z, the ratio is the same as the 350Z, so it is an ideal matchup gearing wise.

Damn, I have been looking at buying these but I'm 6'3" and 235 so I think I'd be in the same predicament.

Go to imgur.com and upload your picture there. Click the share link and copy and paste the entire line that has in it here.

Another guy on here was running the exact same manifold I've got sitting in my garage. I won't be using it since I swapped heads from a 1JZ non vvti to a 2JZGTE vvti head. You're more than welcome to it. It's already had the vband flange swapped to a 44mm.

If you're looking towards an AEM unit, go with the infinity series. The features and capabilities of the unit make it well worth it.

I sent you my email for pics of the doors

Yeah it's like you said, the angle is different. These bolts are perpendicular to the load. So now you're talking about their sheer strength, which might be different.

My one gripe with the cx mounts is the entire weight of the engine sits on two small bolts which he circled in red. I might weld those parts together after I get the engine in. It would also let me shift the motor in whatever direction I wanted too.

Measure the drive shaft length required and hit up shaftmasters

Trying to buy a set of late model Z doors before I try to make early 280Z doors work on a late model shell. Located in 80012 but will travel to the surrounding states.

The mojo kit is nice, but I'm not a big fan of the lSX coils. There are kits that provide a bracket for IGN-1A coils, which are more reliable. Induction performance sells them. This is the same coil as the AEM "smart" coil.

I'll check and see if I've got one. My dad is a purist with an 87 turbo supra. He's got a second motor with a spun bearing, should have the cps still.

Do you have plans to delete the distributor? It's fairly straight forward, especially since you're running a stand alone. http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=347719#/forumsite/20626/topics/347719?page=1

I've had a 280Z in my possession for years now, and I got what was essentially a free 1JZ after I sold the manual trans ecu and harness from it. I never intended to swap a 1JZ in a Datsun, but after holding onto both since around the date I joined the forums, I started collecting more parts over the years and decided it was time to start the swap process. The first major hurdle turned out to be my 75 280Z's body. While outside the car looked great for its age, under years of dirt and what turned out to be bondo, the Alabama/Florida weather wasn't kind to the car at all. Everything from the floorpans forward had rusted out, including the shock towers and frame rails. One quick trip from Colorado to the west coast later and I had a new to me 1977 280Z shell that had spent its life in Cali, and had very little rust. Even better was what rust the car did have wasn't rusted at all on my 1975 280Z. With their powers combined, I had a fairly rust free shell to work with. Onto the motor, The parts collection started early, but has been revised a few times. I used to have a completely built up 180SX and some of the parts intended for it were originally slated for the 1JZ. After a series of trades and deals, I ended up with a 9174 EFR with an aluminum center section and 1.05 A/R T4 hotside. I feel that this is going to be way more turbo than I need for a 280Z but whatever, I can't seem to get rid of the thing for a smaller turbo. My 1JZ head had some odd wear, and as I was trying to decide if I wanted to try and machine it and bring its flow up to anything near what a stock 2JZ head can do, a vvti 2JZGTE popped up for sale and I scooped it up with the assumption that if 1.5JZ swaps are a thing, then going the other way has to work. Turns out Aaron from Driftmotion has already been down this path with quite a bit of success, and after speaking with him while ordering parts, I'm glad I took the plunge. Supporting mods on the 1JZ bottom end are: Weisco 86.5mm 9.5:1 pistons ARP rod bolts for stock 1JZ rods ARP head studs I'll have the bottom end machined and the assembly re-balanced with the new pistons and rod bolts. Should be fun. Anyone know of a machine shop near Denver with a 2JZ torque plate? Fuel system/ecu: Drift motion -8 Fuel rail Donkeypower 1300cc injectors (EV14 bosch type). DW Surge tank with twin AEM e85 044 clones. Fuel lab fpr and filters GM Flex fuel sensor for E85 AEM Infinity 6 Standalone I'll likely have the stock 280Z tank popped apart, cleaned out and coated since with the surge tank I should have enough fuel to do whatever I want. One thing I learned in my quest for DBW is aside from being heavy, the USDM 2JZGTE (or possible early JDM, not 100% sure) throttle body doesn't play well with the VVTI solenoid. In fact, they don't fit due to the TPS sensor being in the way. However, I'm totally okay with that, as I didn't want to deal with installing a throttle cable anyway. The plan from the start was to switch the TB out with something similarly sized in diameter, and that ended up being a 350Z throttle body. For wiring I'll simply move what would have been IACV wiring about 18" further forward. Please excuse the messy garage, its normally much more organized but trying to cram 2 shells and a Ducati in there left me with little space. I'm having to play garage tetris to store all of this crap until I can haul away the blue shell. Here is the 2JZGTE vvti head on the 1JZ bottom end. All of this stuff is eliminated simply by going DBW with the AEM infinity 6 with my 350Z TB and pedal combo. Quite the size difference. The biggest irony is that if the bolt pattern on the 2JZ thottle body was the same for the top two bolts as it is for the bottom two studs, this would be a bolt on affair. Sadly, only the bottom two studs line up. No issues with the throttle blade hitting the inside of the manifold. I'll likely end up not using the bottom bolt holes at all, and instead center up a plate and weld it to the intake to use as a new flange. One of the last engine parts I need is a flywheel/clutch. I'm using a milled down 350Z CD009 transmission. What I'm hoping to do is just run a clutch kit that lets me swap the clutch hub/disc out for a Nissan one and lets me keep my 2JZ flywheel. OS Giken, ATS work this way as the clutch disc part number is universal to all their kits. The only thing that changes is the center hub. The thousand dollar question however is simply will there be enough engagement of the input shaft on the transmission to make this work long term. I also got my Greddy T88 turbo manifold on there and my 9174EFR fits quite nicely on it. The only thing to do to the manifold now is cut off the 4-Bolt WG flange and weld on a v-band for my Turbosmart WG. For anyone wondering what the CD009 looks like bolted up to a 1JZGTE with a VVTI 2JZ head, here you go.

Might just need more pedal adjustment. You're using the Collins kit with their flywheel correct? You should be able to see inside the clutch fork hole to check the engagement of the throwout bearing. It should be firmly against the splines of the pressure plate.