Geno750

I've been working towards something like this. The initial plan is to use a hall effect sensor mounted to pickup the bolts on a two piece rotor for the front. My goal is slightly different though, as I'm aiming to give my 280Z traction control.

You run into any issues with the compressor housing hitting one of the exhaust runners? The S300SX-E I stuck on my dad's 87 supra required a spacer to fit.

The gauges shouldn't be too hard now that you've figured out the switched and constant power. You can use a relay and use the switched wire that triggers your head lights to activate a relay.

Easiest way to solve the issue is going to be with a volt meter. First, disconnect the gauges from the power source you've chosen and with a volt meter test the wires you're targeting as a potential power source with the key in the off position, ACC, and on. Do the same for headlight switch for gauge light power.

Lengths on the S14 are longer. If you went with BC and contacted them you can likely swap the hats on the coilovers out for the s30 version.

Yeah that's the key, small sized turbo. Using a QSV usually means bigger turbo. It's definitely a balancing act. I also know exactly what you mean about playing Tetris for space. Moving everything from one body to another is a giant time sink.

Honestly if you're thinking of going 2JZGTE head, you could buy the entire engine for about $1500, especially given your proximity to Canada where the dollar is strong. Buy the entire engine and sell the bits you don't need. Also on QSV's, they are currently mostly found on the cast manifolds for 2JZ (can google spa cast 2jz) and they would more than likely put a turbo in the middle of our passenger side shock tower. A true twinscroll manifold with twinscroll turbo would have better transient response as well.

My story is a bit like yours. I got a 1JZ non vvti for $600. It was a MK3 1JZ though, and came with the 5 speed ecu and harness, no flywheel or transmission. I sold the harness and ECU after successful removal from the engine with 0 damaged connectors for $550. Sold the stock turbos for $150, so the engine was -$100 to start. However I got a deal on a 2JZGTE vvti head, and will probably bolt that onto my bottom end and enjoy the increased flow and better torque of vvti. Just means buying another turbo manifold.

I've driven a mk3 Supra with and without the MC upgrades done on a R154. The upgrades help hold power and make downshifts a bit easier. However, that long throw and notchy shifting of an 80's transmission remains. I ended up selling the stock R154 for $1200 and picked up a CD009 trans for $200 and the adapter plate and for $400.

Seals and hinges are the same, or are so close I can't tell the difference. It's looking like aside from the internals of the doors and the latch area they're the same.

The obvious difference is the door latches. What I'm curious on is what others have done to make this work. All my searching turns up with the reverse, and people are using the 77/78 doors on an earlier body. I have the opposite, and have 75 280Z doors. My current idea is to use the two bolt provisions on the 77 body with a plate and weld my latch to that.

Doesn't mention a transmission either. For that price it seems like there are better options. An S52 with a turbo on it would be a lot cheaper and easier to swap in if you wanted to stay with a BMW engine.

You can now. The process seems to have evolved from machining the bell housing on the CD009 for the adapter plate, to not, to now you just cut the damn thing off and replace the front plate on the CD009 box with an adapter that lets you bolt on a R154 bellhousing (Or auto trans). suprastore.com has more information on it. While its mostly geared towards the 1JZ/2JZ crowd, 7M guys have done it successfully with a R154 to 7M bellhousing.

Solid mounts on an inline 4, definitely. I've found that a smooth running JZ engine, even with solid mounts vibrates the car less than a urethane mounted inline 4.

You could possibly change out the rod ends for a more quality piece, and basically do a diy budget version. It's likely going to entail a good amount of work, similar to what guys with S13's and 14's were doing here http://nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=1407

They had to of shortened the rod the linkage attaches to. The pictures above are the same as my setup.

To shorten things that much you'll likely need a new linkage. I'll take a picture of the piece I'm talking about later today when I'm home to illustrate.

I'd recommend just shortening it. You can only shorten it so much due to the linkage. The shaft connecting each end of the forks on my linkage is gone entirely, and you can't go shorter. The aftermarket shift brackets only use the top two bolts, shorten the factory one and you can use all 4. Here's mine versus a stock one. http://i.imgur.com/JTRHuac.jpg

Going to be following along as well. I'm slowly swapping in a 1JZ with a 350z trans as well. I've got all the parts, now it's just a matter of getting the time to swap them in.

The 60mm gauges are the better fitting option for the pods.

This x1000 and check eBay for wire. I got 1500ft of tfetzel wire for $40 from there.

How much power are you going for? I'm using 1200cc ev14 injectors and even with e85 I've still got enough injector for over 800hp.

Nice, what fuel rail are you going with? I found that the drift motion -8an rail is pretty nice for the price.

Ah, my experience has been the opposite. I bought my infinity 6 for $975 during a sale, and I'm making my harness from scratch. The connector for the ecu side was $45. I don't like built in map sensors because they tend to require running a vac line through the fire wall.

Stop posting so many pics, you're making me feel guilty for being so lazy about working on my own project. Of course, it being 22F outside doesn't help either.