mobythevan

You said in the first post that the car goes lean during acceleration, but you said the AFR goes to 8 which is rich. Would you clarify if the car goes rich or lean under acceleration, that will make all the difference on what could possibly be wrong. If the car is going lean it could be a bad fuel pressure regulator. I had a bad one and the car would rev in neutral fine, but at about 3000 rpm when boost would just start to build it would fall flat and run out of fuel.

The vacboogauge is in MS1 extra for sure, I have been using it.

That link to the sticky of metro's jpeg settings is the best stock settings we have as far as I know.

A lot of times I have been up against a wall on my projects and some times I just back up a step to get them running and come back to the problem at a later date. Maybe back up and get the car running with the zxt dizzy for spark? Is there anyone local to you that is running EDIS?

oops, I assumed it was for an LS1 engine with 8 coils.

The mods should be fairly easy for 3 of the 4 coil outputs. For the first three use the LED circuits with a resistor installed, you probably already know that. The tougher question is building the 4th 2222 transistor circuit on the v3.57 board. I have not worked with one directly so maybe someone will chime in that has added an extra circuit to the 3.57 board. An option is that I have seen other people drive the LS1 coils directly from the ECU pins with a series resistor and it seems to work OK (see davew on msnsextra forum). In that case it is as easy as removing a few parts from the LED circuits and running wires with series resistor directly from ECU pin connection points. I have only used the 2222 transistor to drive pairs of LS1 coils in wasted spark mode so far.

I am running my 5.3 on e85, but I installed larger injectors and have a standalone ECU so I coul program it for the ~33% increase in fuel.

That is quite the piece of hardware you have in that engine bay, wow. And the COP looks good too.

Look over to the right in the megatune menu under tools and you'll see tps calibration. I usually restart megatune after doing the calibration.

If the magnets on the flywheel have worked good for you then I like the idea of only adding two more. Use the piston stop like you said so it is accurate.

If you are connecting the pullup resistor for tach input trigger you need this resistor. If you have a v3 or v3.57 board then you can use PWM for low impedance injectors and do not need dropping resistors for the inejctors. Any resistors in that diagram that are not related to the injectors you will need to put in your installation.

I put a 700r4 with my LS1 in my RX7. That won't help you tunnel question, but I promptly tossed the 700r4 because I didn't know how to get it to shift into overdrive at full throttle, apparently there are kits for this but something to be aware of.

Ha, I did this one last weekend on my talon. 5 quarts of oil across the garage floor as I backed out.

The installation sticky contains the settings for a stock L28et engine. Since you are going to poke the bear and have spent so much time researching then how did you miss this part of the sticky that is in bold(dwell on the last sentence in paticular then go back and read the sticky again, I'm not usually the person to cry out search but jeez): Thread Locked

Once you get your base setup tuned to industry accepted values please post the settings so this won't be an issue for the next guy with a stock L28ET engine. Unfortunately my cars have only been tuned as good as I could do myself with a wideband and no EGT or knock sensor. I do not feel comfortable telling everyone to use them and claiming they are as good or safe as a factory tune. That is why you have been told to only use the settings on the internet as a starting point and tune from there.

I would recommend looking through the sticky with jpeg images of the megatune settings from metro. I am sure that means settings for megatune.

THis is the link that includes the manual, firmware and I think megatune all in one. http://www.msextra.com/manuals/Downloads/Megatune_Extra_Installer.exe

OK, I updated the sticky a little. Removing references to the MSS code and only talking about MSnS_Extra029y4. I also removed the old yahoo MSS links and updated the part about downloaded code since it didn't apply anymore. Man that write up is old, 2003, holy cow

That write up is older than dirt and a lot of things don't apply any more. It is best to use diyautotunes write up. I will try to clean it up when I get time.

excellent, hopefully they all are ok.

Does the pintle move freely on these injectors that don't click? I have had a lot of used injectors that had the pintle get stuck. They did not click like you say. After cleaning them and freeing the pintle they worked fine. If they have been setting around for a while I would suspect that is the problem.

How are you determining that the injectors are bad? Are you measuring them with an ohm meter or seeing that they don't inject fuel correctly?

It doesn't hurt anything to use the 1 watt resistor for the pullup if that is what you have in your parts bin at home. But 1/4 watt is correctly sized for this circuit. EDIT: I noticed at the bottom of the sticky is a note that someone was using a 1 watt and kept burning up HEI modules? Not sure why, but interesting.

Does it have a part number on it?

The first picture you show is from my install guide which is made for v2.2 pcb so you can disregard it if you are using v3 pcb. Here is a link where I talked through the same issues that concern you: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=145679 So, depending on the stuffing options of your v3 pcb you can decide what works best. The link you posted for the install writeup at diyautotune should work great for you.