mobythevan

Sounds like it is overcharging. You could measure at the battery with a multimeter and rev the engine a bit to verify, but I bet MS is correct. Better make sure you have a internal regulator.

OK, that is weird. I went to other vehicles in the project area and set to display all threads from the beginning and it doesn't show up. I searched up the thread and here it is, not sure why it doesn't show?? Enjoy the reading, first I had a bad engine, then a bad tranny, then a bad turbo. I think the car will be OK though once the turbo is replaced. If it is a bad car then I can start with a 240z again http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=127466

Yeah, I have a thread somehwere in the project area. I don't know if the turbo was bad going in, but I certainly destroyed it . The good news is that the housing can be bumped up to fit the 88mm wheel so that is what I will do at some point. The most boost it ever built was 6 pounds before it went downhill and I found the compressor wobbling all over.

If you have a multimeter, measure the voltage at the battery terminals while the engine is running. It should show 13.5 - 14.5 volts. If the voltage at the battery agrees with megasquirt then you are not charging or not charging well. If the number is OK at the battery, then the wiring for power to MS may not be good. How is your voltage reference wire to the alternator set up?

Transmission Housing Bolt is listed as 37 lb/ft I take that to mean the bellhousing to block. I used that spec for mine.

The RX7 is completely assembled and running. I start it up every weekend. It does need a new turbo though. The bushings are shot in the old one and it will only build 1-2 pounds of boost. The impeller shaft also got bent from overheating so it rubs the housing. Time for an 88mm turbo.

Thanks guys. Lately, I have been posting in the LSx and Megasquirt areas.

I don't remember what you need to change on your board to bypass the MS coil driver, but it should be pretty easy.

If you enjoy experimenting I would try the HEI module since its cheap and relatively easy to install. Just be sure the invert on/off setting is correct for the HEI module so it doesn't burn up. Since you are thinking of getting a new board anyway, this may be an easy last experiment.

I have always used the factory coil ignitors on all my setups, except the L28ET where I used the GM 4 pin HEI. On TPI I used the factory 7/8 pin, on LT1 I used the factory, and on my 4G63 I used factory. The LS1 has them built into each coil. I just didn't want you to think I was ignoring this thread, I have zero experience with the MS coil driver. The GM 4 pin modules are about $15 at autozone. I have used them, just mount it to a heat sink and make sure it is grounded well(the ring by the mounting bolt). Then put the dwell settings at minimum for HEI.

Nevermind, after running all over town I ended up talking to a knowledgable guy and I got a new/rebuilt booster and master cylinder ordered for $500. Cool, can't wait to get this beast on the road again. Also found a shop to re-line the parking brake band. What are we going to do when these older gentlemen no longer run shops to rebuild parts like this??

I have a 1974 D600 2.5 ton truck that is in pretty good shape overall and runs good. There are a couple things I need to get fixed and I'm not sure where to go. I need to get the brake booster and master cylinder rebuilt. I also need to get the emergency brake band re-lined, it goes around a drum on the driveshaft. Do you guys have any shops that you use for this kind of stuff? I checked a couple local bearing type shops figuring they would know where to get trucks worked on, but no luck yet. I'll keep checking around. BTW, I am not sure the booster need rebuilt. It works OK, just makes a lot of squeaking noises when I let off the brake pedal and the air has to get out around the rod from the pedal on the inside of the cab. Scares the hell out of me sometimes. It just squeaks and oscillates like a siren, maybe something is blocking where air goes in and out around that rod??

Thanks, I added the info to the sticky.

There doesn't seem to be any info without the pic from the ebay auction unless the original poster lets us know the pinout that worked. I will put it in the sticky if someone has the dizzy 4 pin layout.

The rails that BRAAP linked are the ones I used.

I use rails like you show in the pic, they did not come from summit. I run large line into one rail, crossover, then hit FPR and return to tank. I wanted more flow than the corvette regulator allows.

Are you saying with the vacuum hose connected to the map sensor you can blow in it and it leaks air? Is the plastic case of the map sensor cracked or melted? Doesn't sound good.

The fuel pump pulsing doesn't really mean the firmware is bad, just that the worng settings are entered. I would go through all the settings in megatune. If you do not change any settings and then the next time you turn on the car, the fuel pump pulses then it sounds like a problem with power or the board where the firmware and settings get corrupted. That could be bad grounding or bad crimp connections, solder joints, etc.

Interesting, thanks for the update.

I think you have tried enough things at this point that the only way I could help is if I had the whole setup, trigger wheel/vr sensor/megasquirt. Was there a recommendation on how close (proximity) to position the VR sensor to the 60-2 wheel?

After you find TDC and point the dizzy at #1 then do what I wrote in Post #9. Set trigger angle to 50, set fixed timing to 10, unplug the fuel injectors, have someone crank the engine and then put the timing light on and rotate the dizzy by hand until the timing light shows 10 BTDC. Lock the dizzy down at this point when it shows 10 BTDC. If the engine does not idle at this point you need to work on fuel settings like after start enrichment, warm up enrichment and make sure the engine is getting enough air to idle. You may need to adjust the screw to open the butterfly on the throttle body more so it will idle. Once you are idling good, then go back and put -10 into the fixed timing box so you will now use the spark table instead of fixed timing.

I think we are just confused, if you set the fixed timing in megasquirt to 10 and set the trigger angle to 50 with no addition then you should be able to have someone crank the engine over while you look at the timing light and adjust the dizzy until you see 10 BTDC with the light. Your close, I think I am misunderstanding what you are trying to tell me. If you can't get to 10 BTDC on the light by doing this, then we should revisit some more basic details to make sure something wasn't overlooked.

That does not sound like fun.

When you crank the timing light should show 10 BTDC, but are you saying that you see 0 the timing light? I just need to make sure I understand what you are saying. Can you set the fixed timing to 10 and then let me know what you see with the timing light. From your picture fixed timing has -10 which tells megasquirt to use the spark table. Try 10 which will set it at 10 BTDC all the time.

You'll want timing of probably 10-15 BTDC for cranking and 20-24 BTDC for idling. You should be able to get the timing correct with about 60 entered for trigger angle, if not you may be off a tooth on the dizzy shaft.