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Posts posted by mobythevan
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It took a day(a long day) to install on Prox's car, but that is after I have installed about 5 other systems into various cars. I would say a couple weekends is pretty realistic if you have all the parts available and have never worked with MS before. The best thing is that if you can keep the option of switching back to the stock ECU in case things go terribly wrong. That way if you are a month into this and can't get anything to work just cut your losses and put back the stock ECU until you can figure things out. Don't laugh, it took over a month to get the V8 TPI engine to run correctly. It only took me 2 hours to install MS into my Talon and have it running, but that is after many installs, having everything planned out up front and having a wiring harness adapter that alowed me to plug in to the stock wiring.
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Doc, could you list 60 foot times for those runs.
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That is great news. You did a good job of sticking with it and tracking down the problems.
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I think the basic choices are:
MSI processor, V2.2 board, MSnS_Extra code
or
MSI processor, V3 board, MSnS_Extra code
or
MSII processor, V3 board, MSII code
The tradeoffs in general are:
V2.2 board is cheaper, but not built as well as V3
MSII is a more powerful processor, but MSnS_Extra code does not run on it yet
Looks like the winner for today is MSnS_Extra on MSI processor, V3 board
But maybe for your paticular setup MSII has all the features you need??
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and from a reputable family owned business
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Either place would work, just keep in mind that at the input active low IRQ pin you still only want to compare the low going edges, the high going edges will vary because of the larger disc window.
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but later I found the boost hose to megasquirt pulled off
Thats funny, we started the TPI engine once and it was super rich, the garage immediately started to fill with black smoke, but right before we passed out we remembered the MAP sensor had been disconnect to move the box around. Since the pinks stuff has been hashed already I just thought I would share that story since Doc reminded me.
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I think you'll need timing tape around the entire damper so you can calculate where each cylinder should be firing as you move down the line.
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Good timing on this thread, my 11 year anniversary is this Saturday. We have been together 14 years and it gets better every day. Great to see so many happy stories.
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As long as one edge of the windows aligns (first edge, or trailing edge like you say) then in theory it can work OK. It just needs to be setup so that the input trigger to MS happens when the opto encoder shuts off (which usually means the TACH signal goes high. It may be too much trouble to figure out if you are not comfortable with the trigger circuit.
I would verify the TACH line goes high at the trailing edge of the disc window. Then verify that the trigger input circuit will provide the MS processor with an acitive trigger (low signal I believe) when the TACH line goes high.
Then it is easy to check that it is working by using the timing light on each cylinder if need be to make sure timing is steady and one cylinder is not getting a skewed timing from the larger window.
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It would be nice to have the intake air temp sensor tapped in to the intake manifold. There is some arguement about heat soaking problems, but the general consensus is to put it in the intake manifold.
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I have always wanted a fuel pressure sensor wired in to be datalogged. I will be interested if you get something up and running. I haven't had time to look into it.
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The optical sensor runs off 12 volts.
The tach input runs off 12 volts.
The system goes from HI (12v) to LO (GND) when the optical sensor triggers. The pullup resistor to 12 volts on the TACH line keeps the line at HI(12v) until a trigger.
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yeah, the straight eight from my 34 pontiac weighs as much as 10 z cars
SBC head for reference.
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If you ever do that engine, try the 2.1L stroker crank
When I rebuild it I will definitely be contacting you to get advice, thanks for the update.
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I logged 9500 miles so far in mine, all around it is the most fun car I have ever used as a daily driver. I'm still only running 18psi on it, maybe next summer I'll get it up to 26psi.
I can't believe Doc is talking about DSM's, F&F is just around the corner from here
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No, not trim angle. Trigger angle is the correct setting to change.
TRIM ANGLE is used to adjust the entire spark map by a trim value for some kind of testing purpose, but not used to calibrate your timing.
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good deal, now did you get that floor pan installed yet?
I think I saw a post that it was in already, that was fast work.
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A serious person studying EMP would look on HAM radio sites. HAM radio operators want their equipment to work after any kind of devastation.
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Yes, that is correct, "key on 12v" connects to coil pos/HEI B
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I just noticed today that the MSnS_Extra forums have been moved from http://www.msefi.com to http://www.msextra.com
All threads were copied over and only replies are allowed at msefi.com now.
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Yeah, both of my personal isntallations have worked great and Prox's installation worked great. I have put 9000 miles on the talon so far with MSnS.
But.... My friends installation in his street rod nearly pushed me to the brink before we got it to run correctly. But it runs great now.
And... another installation we did in a pickup has never run quite right, always had resets and nothing has fixed it. The only thing we know is that the same ECU in put in the street rod runs fine.
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awesome numbers Garrett, congratulations. Sorry I didn't get back to you about the ka24 stuff, I have been too busy lately to do anything.
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before this thread goes any farther I am going to suggest that you guys just continue to pursue an explanation offline from msefi.com
I don't think it is appropriate on the megasquirt forum here, please post any followups or other discussion in the non-tech area. I am closing the thread because this is not a megasquirt topic, it is a why was I banned topic.
My notes for 83zxt to MSnS-e on v3 PCB (Hall and VB921)
in MegaSquirt
Posted
This is all true, that is why when you look into an 83 280zx distributor you will notice that the rotor arm has a "wide" wiper to allow more adjustment to be made by a computer, and this also allows the trigger angle to be changed more than a non-efi distributor without spark jumping posts.