mobythevan
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Posts posted by mobythevan
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Forrest,
have fun with the bike. I picked up the GS1000 this summer and me and the wife went on a 3 day trip going over independence pass here in Colorado. It was one of the most fun times we had this summer. She said recently that we have to go on at least one more trip through the Colorado mountains before I decide to sell the bike.
I use to be the type of person that worried, then in the last year I realized that a short life full of fun is better than a long life full of none. People tell you that kind of stuff all the time, but it actually soaked in to me. I am not saying be crazy, just like you said, don't be older regretting that you never bought a bike.
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link added to the must read threads, thanks for the writeup
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but the timing is WILDLY off
so that means that you cannot get timing set correctly when you follow the setup procedure? Set fixed timing to 10 degrees and then use a timing light to set it to 10 degrees. So it always moves on you? Can't be set to 10 because you cannot turn the trigger source far enough? OR trigger angle is setup wrong?
From reading the post it sounds like you made the circuit change and expected timing to fall into place without having to be set again.
I am just trying to decipher where you are at and what you have done to set up the timing correctly.
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You will have to look up the spec, but that sounds correct. Then when you put the vacuum back on the manual should also tell you approximately what pressure to expect(20psi sounds low, but look it up??). When you rev the engine it should fluctuate between the two.
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I can't think of any big reasons, at worse case you can always instantiate a small processor core in the FPGA to handle overhead and coordination of events. I work with FPGAs at my job. I considered using an FPGA when I first started looking at megasquirt 3 years ago. The reason I considered it was because I had some old test boards here at work that were scrap, so I could use one for free. I still have one of the boards, it was designed in MArch 1999, it has an ORCA 2T26 part on it and 96 I/O that are routed to two pin headers. The problem is that it was never designed with analog to digital circuitry on the board so I gave up and just went with a more tried and true setup. But don't let that discourage you, it is a lot of fun to work with FPGAs and design your own controllers. Over the years I have been able to work with ORCA parts, Xilinx parts and Altera parts. You mentioned the spartan series, that would be a great choice for this project.
At one time or another I have tried everything for making my car computer, even etching my own double sided board. It was all fun and good learning, but in the end I went with the better quality boards and kits from Bowling and Grippo. It is just really time consuming and expensive to do one off PCBs that are quality units. But if you can start with a developement kit that gives you the FPGA on a board and fits your needs for I/O you are miles ahead.
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maybe the fuel pressure is low BECAUSE I have the pulse width so long.
Check over your fuel system and fix the pressure problem so that it is up to spec according the engine manual(30-40psi, i don't remember exactly off hand). Just because you bought new parts does not mean they are good parts. Check the voltage at the fuel pump, make sure it is not low voltage because of small wires or bad grounds/connections. If you still have the old FPR swap it back in and see if the pressure changes. If the FPR is working correctly the pressure will rise in the rail when you give it throttle.
The longer pulse width will not lower the fuel pressure in the fuel rail.
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Does this sound right? What do I do with R43 & R57?
Sounds correct. From looking at your diagrams I wouldn't do anything with R43 and R57 because they are in a part of the circuit that is no longer connected or used, so if they are in right now or out right now, just stay that way. Once you remove R26 and Q16 they no longer matter one way or the other.
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fair enough
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You have to set dwell control. Since you are using the v3 board and coil driver, it will not control dwell for you. The only time you can use a fixed setting like 50% or 75% is if you are driving an ignition module or box that will control dwell(like 4 pin HEI module or MSD box). Let us know if that helps.
Try the settings I used on the TPI V8, it had a blaster coil.
Go to the "spark" tab and the go to "dwell settings"
select dwell control
cranking dwell = 6
running dwell = 2.5
minimum discharge =1.5
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oh, so you are running v3.0 board. The easiest test is to take off the lid of the megasquirt case so you have access to the coil driver. Fire up and wait for the miss, then spray a little bit of freeze spray on the coil driver to cool it down and see if the miss goes away. That is an easy way to determine if the coil driver is overheating. Let us know what happens and then we can determine a better way to cool the driver.
What coil and dwell settings are you running?
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Your not going to turn that encoder with a belt drive are you? I couldn't understand if that is what you are asking. It needs to be connected through a gear drive or directly to the crank for position. Or a geared belt drive like a timing belt.
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We had an engine with an 8 pin HEI module that did not have heatsink compound on it. It would do exactly what you say, run great for a few minutes, then start to miss, miss more, then die. We suspected the module for quite a while, and then noticed when we removed it that it didn't have the grease to allow it to cool properly.
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The only reason I see that FPGA's aren't used more is handling analog to digital conversion. The processor works better for that. But if everything was digital or the processor is used for that function and then like you say everything is sent over to the FPGA in digital format then it could be used.
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it brought $400, interesting
You guys have to go back and read the extra paragraph that he added at the bottom, pretty funny stuff, what a whiner
Guys, I made sure I took high quality pics of all the general areas plus any damaged area. I'm trying to learn from my past experience and list in the best, most informed and honest manner. There are around a dozen of u watching, but that's really not going to change anything. Do u want me to pay you?! I think I am being more than reasonable with my reserve and especially my starting bid. I guess I was wrong to make the starting bid lower. All that did is make u think u could get it for free, I guess. Or that it would magically appear in your garage, without having to bid on it. Have any of u ever bought on ebay before? Is this a bad time of year? Did I start it the wrong day? This is a good car with many new parts! What more can I say?, it comes with a naked lady? Would that see some bids? I tell u what, if u restore it right I'm sure u could attract a lot of heads. Giv it a shot, it's a great car. Surface-Rust is really a piece of cake ask a bodyman)! See yourself fixing and driving this car. This can be yours! Own it! Good Luck and seize the day! If it's a Z u want then GET IT! No one can stop u accept U! U can do anything! -
I just noticed today that the piece of paper with my summit oil pump for the big block says it requires a steel pinned sleeve for the oil pump drive shaft or it voids the warranty. What is the story with that, is it really required? I can't use my stock oil shaft with the nylon sleeve? Looks like it only around $10 to get a shaft with a pinned sleeve, but I have to wait on another part to get shipped in.
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You HAVE to set some kind of dwell setting in MS, though
remember that in the beginning before MSnS_Extra was even available and we were just using Magnus' MSnS code there was no setting for dwell. The HEI modules had to be heatsinked well. Then as Extra code come into play the eventually added selections for 75% and 50%, then finally you could set dwell (cranking, running, minimum). Even with the magnus code my HEI module worked fine, I believe that was at 100%???
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here is a very short web page that talks about resistor plugs, I haven't searched the megasquirt manual, but I bet there is something in there about resistor plugs (I'm off to look)
http://www.hondata.com/techksparkplugs.html
I searched the manual and did not find any info on spark plugs and wires, however by searching the site the consensus was to use resistor plugs or resistor wires to keep noise down, so that supports the findings in this thread.
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i'm running 2.3ms dwell for running, 4.0 for cranking and 0.1 min discharge. i found this to work by turning down the dwell until the idle started sounding different and then turned it up another 0.2. probably a rough setting but it seems to have solved my issue with the spark cutting yet still runs the engine. i took the car for a drive and my spark cut issue seems to be gone. i kept the rpms under 2500, though, because i still have some more tuning to do.
what kind of dwell control were you running before when the ignition would not work? for reference
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I saw that car since I watch for local stuff, but I won't even consider buying it and its only 20 miles from me, nasty. Well, if it goes for $75 I might bid, but he thinks the wheels are worth $500
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cobra
in MegaSquirt
It may just get moved to non-tech, but I don't see a problem otherwise
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mine are all bays "brown" and I only have 3.
I'll post a pic of one of the nuggets I have and some of the "rocks" we have as well.
So do you ride those horses? better post a pic of that too
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problem solved, thanks guys
So does that mean that it works correctly now, with the pullup and everything set like in the sticky?
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cobra
in MegaSquirt
I think I have seen one of those cars before, they come with a diaper dispenser in the glovebox
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search for BRAAP posts on EDIS he has a lot of information in there to answer some of your questions.
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Is It OK To Permanently Tilt The Engine Like This..Spacer Weld In.Pics
in Fabrication / Welding
Posted
The only thing I would worry about is the driveshaft angle, and if that worried me I would measure the angle at the rear of the transmission with it in the stock location and with it tilted. If it was less than 2 degrees I would just run it, but that is me. At worse case put a .8 spacer on both engine mounts and the tranny mount, if that doesn't interfer with anything else. Then you maintain the same driveshaft angle and oil levels.
It just makes me giggle everytime I think about it, shimming the engine to fit in a big turbo, priceless