mobythevan

Take time to read the MSS install guide above. If nothing else just to raise some more questions that will help you along. The schematics pictures are not in there right now, but that won't matter if your just looking for info. It will give you one idea of what its like to upgrade from the stock ECU.

I used the summit alumunized tubing, 3" diameter. It worked good for me. Also welded good. It is bigger gauge than I expected. Should hold up for a long time.

I have not ported the intake yet, but that will be one of the first things I do now that I'm back to the car. Hopefully I will have some real data for you guys by this summer. Either dyno or 1/4 mile times. I still plan to get the Tech Edge wideband O2 meter in the next couple months so I can tune the engine with real feedback.

Will the photo album be put back after the dust settles? Just curious because I had been hosting my pics for install guide here on the site. If you are not putting it back to save space that is understandable. If not I'll host those pics somewhere. Thanks

I used a 10ohm 10 watt resistor for this purpose and my 3 wire charging system is working fine. I also put the diode in to make sure the system doesn't feed itself and stay running even when the key is turned off. All working fine like that.

I ordered the last coupler I need to get my turbo 240z back on the road. For the last five weeks I have been working on FrankenFord, but that will be completed this weekend and I can get back on the turbo car next week. It has been almost 3 months since I drove the turbo car, I am having serious withdrawals. Since the last drive I have installed the 8pt S&W cage, finished the 3" mandrel bent exhaust, installed 60mm TB, installed DSM BOV, installed MSnS. Its been so long I won't remember how it ran with all of the old stuff. I have the JSK fuel rail, but need to pick up some good 450cc injectors for it. Then I need a good fuel pump and a good clutch. Next stop, hybrid turbo......

Also, if your tranny is like a TH350 the metal housing that the plastic driven gear runs in will wear out and let fluid leak out into the cable. I just took mine out for that issue and the gear just wobbles inside the housing because it is worn so bad.

Excellent, just what I was looking for. I can never find the good articles when I search the web. I particulary like the link http://www.streetrodstuff.com/Articles/Cooling/Cooling_Suggestions/ from your post. Out of those 10 things I was doing at least 4 wrong in my old van and it always overheated. I won't make the same mistake again in the truck I am working on right now. Thanks Grumpy and everyone else that replied

right, I only posted the pics because there was some discussion of S&W kits. I was not looking for an SCCA or NHRA approved setup. Just something to maybe stiffen the frame a little. This is more a daily driver car.

yep, forgot about that one. Like you say the MS really only supports ford EDIS easily. Well, it was worth the thought.

ok thanks, sounds like I will run a higher pressure cap up here then.

Since everyone is modifying their cooling system on swaps and I have set up a few I was wondering what pressure do you run with sbc? Caps are made at 7lbs, 13lbs, 16lbs and other values. What is the advantage of running 7lbs vs 16lbs or vice versa Higher pressure will raise the boiling point of the coolant, what other factors are involved?

just to make sure you know, the megasquirt can do the ignition and will give you the functionality of the boost timing retard module. So now you are only keeping the stock ECU to run AC. What exactly does it control for the AC system. Maybe that can be handled by MS or something simpler. If that is the only reason to keep the stock ECU we may be able to come up with a better solution for you. From the outside I don't see why you can't use MS for fuel and ignition and something else for AC control. MS has a couple programmble outputs so maybe it can do the AC control you need. Let me know some more specifics.

The S&W 8 pt cage, if you are any taller than me you'll want the center bar set to the back like Tim's

Do most ford trannies use the same hookup for the speedo cable? On the flip side do most chevy trannies use the same hookup? For typical trannies like Ford C-6, T-18, T-19, T-5 etc and GM TH350, TH400, T-5, etc

whats ping have to do with blowing a head gasket? Just curious since it seems like you are convinced that pre-detonation must be the cause of this. It sucks to see somebody continually have bad luck. If you going to sell all of your parts I am sure we will buy it up. You can have bad luck with any engine/car combo.

I'll check that out, but if I can adapt on the tranny end then I can easily keep the cruise control. The cruise speed module is on the ford cable.

Thanks for the input guys, that was my feeling but I wanted a little comforting. 10:1 has to be real close because I remember crunching numbers and showing 10.6:1 not including the head gasket and valve reliefs. They would lower the ratio a little so that should be real close. The truck will hit the road this weekend and I start experimenting with timing and octane. thanks

I am trying to dig up a speedometer adapter to connect a Ford cable (was using a T-19) to a TH350 automatic. Looks like richmond may have one so I sent them an email. Maybe you guys know of some more companies that may have this. Seems like it would be popular for street rods that get converted to sbc.

The iron heads I have came from some company that rebuilds heads and these have been milled to 67cc I believe. BTW, on the vacuum source from the carb, I am running a Holley 4160 carb with it hooked to the port on the metering block, should I use a different port. I'll check it out tonight. Thanks

I just re-installed a rebuilt engine into my truck and had a couple questions. First of all the engine was built about 5 years ago so I have forgot some things about it, but here is what I know. 355 small block chevy iron heads (I think 67cc) 268 comp cam Flat top pistons with four valve reliefs 600cfm holley vac secondaries stock iron manifold The engine seems to be running good now that I have put it back in service. I measured cranking pressure with the egine warmed up and it showed 150psi. I am going to measure cold cranking pressure tonight, but is this going to be too much pressure? I am still a little soft on compression, pressure, etc. I am at 6000' altitude. If this pressure is too high can I go up a size or two with the camshaft to get by for now. I am not sure what to run on timing either or what octane of gas to run. I was going to start experimenting. I was hoping the high altitude would help me run a little higher compression without detonation. Open to any suggestions, but keep in mind this is a budget truck and I am trying to keeep from changing out heads and big dollar items. I was hoping camshaft at worse, or comprimise and not run as much timing, etc.

heh heh, anybody that thinks an engine swap is easy should have been out in the garage the last 5 weekends helping me with frankenford. This is a straightforward swap, not a performance car. Just swapping a ford diesel V8 to a chevy V8 in an F350. Lots of straightforward fabrication, engine mounts, power steering mounts, etc. I agree it is a lot easier to talk up swaps. Somebody remind me of this the next time I decide to do a quick swap. Kind of fun to apply all of the knowledge in fabrication and swapping I have learned over the last three years. BTW, I'll have my V8 datsun running in 2 months or maybe 2 years, something like that.

Best do it yourself EMS is MegaSquirtnSpark. Same level of functionality as SDS and only costs about $300. Have to have a laptop to program it, but I spent $40 on my 486 laptop for it.

I installed the T-5 into my 73 240z. I used the 73 240z driveshaft and the shop shortened the shaft around an inch. they also got me a new slip yoke that fit the 240z driveshaft u-joint and worked with the T-5.

I believe both types of ECU(MS and Z31) have their own advantages. It will be good to have a writeup on the Z31 swap because there will always be people that use both. Always good to have several options.