mobythevan

Sorry, I just wanted to see if you were taking from the coil or the distributor directly. I never used the coil method so I forgot which terminal it pulls from, I didn't even think because coil + would be 12v all the time, wouldn't work very good as a trigger.

Are you pulling the tach signal from the positive coil terminal or from the distributor wires? From the coil is the typical way people do it for non-turbo setups. If you are pulling straigth from the distributor then you may need a signal amplifier.

Come on, it only takes like half an hour to boot windows. I live 2 miles down a dirt road and if we start booting at take off we can have it up when we hit the pavement. And we go pretty slow down the dirt road. 8)

Sounds good, don't have too much fun with or you will feel guilty for the low cost of the unit. I am hoping to try some 1/4 mile times with my G-tech this weekend to have a baseline for my setup.

A lot of us make general assumptions on what is a safe boost to run without an intercooler and with the stock fuel pump. To be better informed you should take into consideration absolute pressure in the intake manifold. I am sure a lot of people already understand all of this, but it may benefit some newer people. It really didn't occur to me until I started raising my boost with an IC installed. First of all, I am a little over 6000' altitude. That puts me at approx 11.7psi atmospheric pressure. Sea level is 14.7psi atmospheric pressure. Whatever boost you run, that your gauge reads, adds onto atmospheric pressure. If someone at sea level runs 10psi boost they have 24.7psi pressure in the intake manifold. Me, only 21.7psi. I have to run 13psi boost to get to the same manifold pressure as a person running 10psi boost at sea level. I just want to make sure everyone keeps that thought when you try to determine what a stock fuel pump can support, when stock head gasket will blow, etc. Make sure you know the altitude that other people are running a certain boost at. I am now running 14psi on my car which only equates to 11psi at sea level. I am using the stock pump, but don't want someone at lower altitude to try the stock pump at 14psi and blow up just based on my results. I know this is basic boost knowledge, but it really didn't sink in to me until recently. There is also air density to look into.....

heh heh, I am trying to blow the turbo up, but I want the engine to hold so I can get a T04E and good intercooler in there. I found the problem, a knucklehead move. My hood vent was hitting the vacuum line to the BOV when the hood was closed. It put a good kink in it and the BOV was not getting a signal so it was leaking under boost. So everything is working again, took it for a couple runs tonight. The car is more impressive now, getting to be real fun to drive. I am still going on the thought that I could blow it up anyday, but I already got my moneys worth out of it.

We raised the boost to 12.5psi and the car was running great. Made many passes, gtech showed that we added around 30hp. Then went home and parked the car for an hour or so. Went back to take another drive and now it only builds between 4 and 7 psi. Looks like the wastegate is stuck open now. The pipings all looks good, don't see any issues with it leaking. It doesn't sound like anything is leaking when it comes on boost so it must be the wastegate I suppose. Its not the boost controller, I disconnected the wastegate signal completey and it still doesn't build over 7psi. More to follow.

SO everyone says not to use a saab 9000 IC, the big one, the one that fits right up to the vent holes in the radiator support. Well, in the interest of science I decided to make some measurements and see what this thing does, because as it turns out it is really cheap and really easy to install(at least I thought so). SO buy one for $20, aluminized mandrel pipe for $70, $80 in couplers, and about 3 hours to install because only 3 welds were needed. The testing was as follows with intake air temp sensors in intake pipe right before the throttle body in all test cases. DSM BOV install before TB in all test cases. All measurements on the same day, same gear runs, same highway. All measurements in degrees F. Took measurements in 3rd and 4th gear. Good long runs at max boost. My air intake is behind the radiator so it sucks hot air when the car is at normal operating temp, which all tests were made at. Multiple boost runs made to get max temp numbers. This is stock T3 turbo. 1st measurement: No intercooler, just j-pipe Ambient air = 55 Boost = 10psi (in manifold) air temp under no boost (cruising) = 100-110 air temp under boost = 170-190 2nd measurement: saab 9000 IC installed Ambient air = 62 (got a little warmer before I could get back out) Boost = 10psi (in manifold) air temp under no boost (cruising) = 70-78 air temp under boost = 80-90 Dropped the air temp by 100 degrees at 10psi boost in my case with ambient air being 7 degrees warmer. Seems ok. Seat of the pants says it runs better, no doubt. Pressure drop across the saab 9000 IC = 1.8psi All of these numbers were measured using megasquirt and a laptop to log all data. Very repeatable. For about $170 total cost and 3 hour install I am happy with this cheap crappy intercooler. I wouldn't necessarily recommend it, but if you bored like me and have one laying around.... When I upgrade to a hybrid turbo I will upgrade to a good intercooler. But cheap is the name of the game right now and it doesn't get much cheaper than that for an intercooler unless you already have the pipe and couplers. Tomorrow I will be trying 12 and 14 psi. With the wideband I will be watching to see if my fuel pump runs short at either level. You know those turbos guys, always gotta crank it up until something breaks.

That's just not right... Some people have all the fun That is going to be awesome

My laptop is fairly old, it is a P200mmx processor. I run windows 98SE.

14F=9K 68F=2.5K 122F=.84K These are the numbers in the MSS install guide that someone gave me from the FSM.

sorry, i didn't explain good. the green relay gives voltage to the injectors all the time when the key is turned on, but the ECU fires them. So I suppose you could just tie the wires together like the zhome article says. If you have the relay, probably easier to just wire it in.

Yes you need it, that is the relay that fires the injectors. If you don't have one or can't find one let me know, I have one laying around that is good.

Sounds good. I am curious to see if you have any troubles with using the MSD. Let us know when its running.

If you have an air leak on a MAP sensor system it will cause your fuel map to be skewed won't it? It is kinda like having a fast idle valve turned on all the time. Seems like it will cause an offset during tuning of the system. Your right that it won't cause a lean condition or anything because MAP system will add the correct fuel, just cause higher idle and not the right amount of vacuum at idle I guess?? I want to know the answer to this one now.

With your setup you have an open hole in your intake now, just sucking air as it pleases from atmoshpere to your intake. Your valve cover takes in air from atmo, and then under vacuum it goes through the block vent into your intake. On the stock setup there is a check valve at the intake for the block vent pipe, that way you don't lose boost back into the block.

Right, I run with both vented to atmosphere and no problems with stock EFI or new setup.

Copied and edited from the sticky that you refer to: You really only need to hook up these wires Plug 1= BR 12v power source. Positive G 12v power source. Positive Plug 2= Y start signal (+) (connect to solenoid wire so only on during cranking) GL ground for inhibitor switch YW coil (-) (must use ignitor) This output from ECU fires ignitor which fires the coil Plug 3= LR fuel pump relay control(add your own relay for fuel pump) G ignition signal (+) for air regulator BW ignition signal (+) From the haynes manual schematic you can track down the appropriate connectors. Do this by looking at the schematic and seeing what color wires go to the plug and how many wires(refer back to full wiring post in sticky). Then isolate the correct plugs, PLUG 2 has two yellow wires. You will have to verify which yellow wire to use for the start signal. The other yellow wire is for A/C and is not used. This start signal is important because it adds more fuel during cranking only to startup. Make sure it is connected to the solenoid signal so it is only on during cranking. Notice that PLUG 2 also has two yellow/white wires, of which only one is used and connected to negative coil. Ground GL wire on PLUG 2 so ihibit is turned off. On PLUG 3 use the LR wire to turn on/off fuel pump realy. You will have to install your own relay unless you try to use the fuel pump modulator thingy. I just installed my own relay, easier to mess with. On PLUG 3 I think I connected G and BW together becasue one is ingnition output signal and the other is ignition input signal. It has been a year already since I did this and I can't really remember, but maybe that will help.

I see numbers on the net like 200cfm for the flow of a stock TPI manifold runner. Does anyone have experience with what stock TPI will flow. I am curious what the upper limits are if this is used on a turbo setup.

You give em a knob and they just can't stop turning it. I'm on my way to finding that limit, maybe the hard way.

I still have another month of little things to have the car roadworthy enough to make the trip. But when I do make it up there I will schedule with you so we can finally meet.

After having the car tuned and running one day it appeared this morning that the turbo went south. I was a mosquito fogging machine. Set around for a couple hours thinking about having to buy the new TO4E turbo and spearco intercooler, but then upon inspecting the j-pipe I only had a little oil. Looked at the plugs and number 6 was buring oil bad. Oh great, valves, head gasket, etc. Nope, brake cylinder apparently gave out since who knows when and filled the booster up until it sucked brake fluid into the #6 cylinder. Capped the line at the manifold and took another drive without power brakes and no smoking, still drives great. So this week I will be rebuilding master cylinder and putting in a new booster. Checking the rest of the brake system. Lucked out on that one I guess, Bastaad sucks up all the bad luck for a multi state area maybe. Just kidding. I will also be putting the IC in this week. Can't stop to enjoy anything.

We're kind of skinny guys The gtech has worked really good for me, worth the $50 I gave for it. No victims really, just a dodge diesel truck, kind of fun to play with though. I think he wondered why at 100mph we kept backing off a long way then running up again

My car is a 73 240z, I added the roll cage which weighed about 120lbs itself. T-5 weighed more than the original 4spd. I also added the R200 which weighs more then original R180. The turbo engine weighs more than original. The two of us weigh about 300lbs together. The spare tire is still in and gas tank is full. No AC or heater though. Ok, I have to get to a scale, I may be making more power than that. Good luck on finding your noise issues. We drove the car around all day yesterday. The megasquirt setup plus the other mods made great improvements in the power/response off the turbo. My brother can't believe it is the same engine.

After a couple hours of tuning today with my brother we did some runs at 10psi boost, non-intercooled. This is unofficial because I haven't weighed the car yet, but I guessed 2800lbs with roll cage, and the two of us, plus some tools. Should be pretty close, but I will get a weight and try again later. Anyway it showed 190hp at the wheels, at 6500' altitude. This was averaged over a couple runs. Not bad since it showed 150hp with the stock ECU, stock injectors, stock fuel rail, stock TB, mechanical cooling fan, 225mm stock clutch. All of these have been upgraded now. If I am estimating a little high on the weight it will show more hp, so give or take 10hp now I would say. I still have timing to mess with and get an actual weight for the car, but it is running realllly good. Can't stay under 80mph Now we are going out to search for a victim, talk to you later.