Carl Beck

Why do you cal this a SCARAB? No SCARAB I.D. Tag, no SCARAB Valve Covers, so much changed I don't see a lot of "SCARAB" left. Was it a SCARAB Factory Bulid at one time? Is there a SCARAB Invoice or other documents? The reason I ask - is I know a person that is looking for a real SCARAB. thanks, Carl

As far as I can tell about 99% of the Low VIN Datsun 240Z's - HLS30's were sold in the North American Market. Generally among Collectors - the term "Low VIN" is used to describe the 240Z's produced in Calendar Year 1969. As I recall that was about 543 units - the first 12 of which were not released for public sale. Out side of the serious collector market - Low VIN is relative.. might mean 1300 or 2000 to some. Why are the really low VIN's more valuable than later production cars in like condition? For one reason - some Vintage/Historic Race sanctioning bodies make a cut off date for cars produced before 1970. {many people think that was done in an effort to prevent the Z's from competing against the earlier Prosche 911 and Triumph TR-6's etc - because the 240Z's beat them too often}. So if you want to go Vintage/Historic Racing in those circles - you have to find a Z with a product date in 1969. There is a pretty limited number of them still in existence... so higher prices for them. Simple supply and demand. Another reason - is that serious collectors that know a lot about the Datsun 240Z's, recognize that the 69 and very early 70 {Jan/Feb} cars have a lot of detail parts that are unique to them. That adds interesting details that are rare and more fun to own. Some of these items are pieces or symbols of the cars history - which can add to interesting discussions about the car when shown. For example - the 240Z Emblems and DATSUN Script on very early production cars.. #13 through..??? we don't know exactly when... were solid cast pot-metal/chromed parts.. which were actually pre-production prototypes. Cast in very limited numbers to gain approval for full production runs... then hollow core pot metal/chromed parts were produced. In both cases the "Z" on these emblems is flat chrome. On later production cars the "Z" was cast with a raised outline - the painted white inside the raised outline. So having a very early VIN with the original prototype emblems adds historic interest to the car for serious enthusiasts. There are several other items on the very early cars that are exclusive to them and which all add to the historic interest of the car. Another reason - the 69 production cars are a known limited quantity. There were something less than 530 of them produced. So far to this date only 175 have been found to still be in existence - many of which are beyond reasonable financial restoration, some are merely rusted shells... Nonetheless the one's that remain are rare and desirable - the two factors that push values up on all Classic/Collectible and Special Interest cars. FWIW, Carl B.

Hello Everyone: Mr. Matsuo, the Designer of the original Z Car visited California this past summer. He spent some time with MotoMan doing a video with Randy Rodriguez who's concept skecthes were the basis for the design of the new 370Z. You can see the resulting video at: You can also find at: Apple iTunes http://www.CraveOnline.com Boxee DivX TV Roku Samsung HD TiVo Verizon FiOS OnDemand Vizio VIA I think everyone will enjoy this... IF you were lucky enough to be at the Z Car Convention this year, and to have meet Mr. Matsuo - you now know why there is enough room in the engine bay for a V8. Turns out that Mr. Matsuo is perhaps the Charter Member of Hybrid Z - he wanted to assure that there was room between the shock towers for a Nissan V8... and had quite a few disagreements with the engineering and production people about that... in the end Mr. Matsuo had his way - there was room for a V8... Pictured below is Rick Rawe, Mr. Matsuo and Rick's Ford V8 powered 240Z. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Gang: I received the following this AM. Passing it along for your information - and to encourage everyone to donate what ever you can to the cause. Of course if you are in the area by all means attend the event. http://DatsunHeritageMuseum.com FWIW, Carl B. = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = This coming Saturday, Nov. 20, The Datsun Heritage Museum is holding a fundraiser to save the museum. I wish I could be there but I'm working. It's going to be a fun night and you should be there! My buddy Rob Schneider is hosting and I hear they've got some pretty great stuff to auction off too. George Barris, the King of the Kustomizer will be there too with some one of kind Barris items. Legendary Datsun racer, John Morton will receive the Datsun Legend Award presented by Tommy Kendall. Plus it's a host bar! This museum is important to me and if you're a Datsun fan or a car enthusiast, I bet it means something to you too. I know times are tough, so if you go online now to datsunheritagemuseum.com, they're offering a general admission ticket for $75. Just click the "donation" button and enter $75 per ticket. There may also still be some VIP seating available. Don't wait. Buy your tickets now! Sincerely, Adam Carolla

Not a good idea to block them. They are not a source of fumes. The fumes most often come in around the rear hatch seals, the tail light seals, the hole in the threshold plate for the latch, and anywhere that the seam sealer has dried out and cracked. Additionally any holes in the bodywork caused by rust or accident damage. Additionally, the seals around the gas vapor lines that run inside the car. In short - everything in the rear of the car has to be sealed up. In my experience adding a front and rear spoiler helps too {but they are not necessary if everything is sealed up}. The cars didn't leak exhaust gas when new... and they should not do it now if properly resealed. Fumes from the engine can also find their way into the car - check the gear shift lever rubber boot {seal} and all the firewall plugs/passages. FWIW, Carl B.

Sorry - the privious owner is simply wrong. There were NO Special Order Options for the Datsun 240Z in the US in 73. If you wanted a 5 spd. - as mentioned above - you ordered it over the Parts Counter and had it put in after you owned the car. So... don't repeat that previous owner story around people that know anything about the 240Z's - they will laugh at you. If it has a flange on the output shaft - it is the Type A 5spd. Same as the Datsun Roadster, with the bell housing and tail shaft housing changed out.. Datsun Competition Parts offered the transmission and the kit to convert it to use in the Z FWIW, Carl B.

Well “actually†in addition to the roadster 5spd. you could order a Type “B†5 spd. Over the Parts Counter in 73 and have it installed. There were several option’s related to gear ratio’s and synchro. types. The 5 spd. was standard in the 240Z’s sold outside of North America. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Tony: Thanks for a wonderful story - I'm sure I would have enjoyed knowing Eddie. When I first started out in Aerospace - I worked for a Senior Engineering Fellow, Don McConnel, in the Manned Space Division; your description of Eddie would have fit Don to a tee. Don was a car, airplane and speed boat nut {anything that moved FAST...} .. when he found out that in my earlier life I had a Pilots License and had owned/operated a muffler shop... I became his #1 assistant. Aerospace Systems Engineers were a dime a dozen - but I could bend pipe and weld!! { so much for degrees..} Thanks also for the links to Polycore.. Wingy's Trailers is pretty much the concept that I'm looking at - only on a much smaller scale. Hi Derek: Thanks for the suggestion. Something along those lines might just fill the bill for some of the roof panels... Carl B.

Hello Everyone: Does anyone here have experience or knowledge related to fabricating anything using honeycomb core aluminum sandwich panels. ? I'm thinking of building a trailer to haul a car - using them possibly for the floors and side wall's of an enclosed trailer. A labor vs. materials trade off, plus possible weight savings. I'm seeking info related to strength, fabrication process, panel joining etc. thanks, Carl B.

Hi Tony: Good points.. I qualify the following by saying "As I Understood It At The Time". The time - was a discussion years {decades} ago on this subject on the old Z Car List. From a vague memory, I believe it was Mike Kojima {but don't want to certify that unless I can dig though the archives and find the thread again} - - that made the remark when the subject of the operational problems with the 73's were being discussed and the changes to the combustion chamber design were brought up. {looking for a change plus a distinction or cause/effect relationships} Yes - the EGR was intended to reduce combustion chamber temperatures - When they were reaching their Peak. NOx concentrations are greatest as the combustion temperatures approach 2500 degrees. That is at periods of sustained highway cruise or mid range acceleration and that is when the EGR system is kicked in... Increasing the "normal" lower level combustion temperatures at other times reduces CO and HC... So the L24's in the US were setup to run slightly hotter in 73. They weren't to the point of needing sodium filled valves or anything, but they did run hotter than the earlier cars. In-turn the exhaust manifolds ran hotter as well. So - yes to two solutions did work together, but each had its desired effect at different engine loads/rpm and manifold pressures... etc. FWIW, Carl B.

We had at least 4 heads cast with E88 here in North America - so you have to be careful when you are buying one. 1. Early E88 - This head is found on late year production Series II {Late Model Year 1971 Z's} and a few very early 72 Model Year Z Cars. It has the same combustion chamber as the E31 and the same 42.4 cc volume. As I understand it, this head had improved castings and materials to address the cracking found around the exhaust ports on many of the E31's. 2. The standard E88 found on the 1972 Model Year 240Z's. Same combustion chamber shape as the E31 only 44.7cc combustion chamber volume. This head had improved exhaust and intake port runners. So the lower compression from the E31 was off-set by better breathing and the 70/71 & 72 L24's were all rated at 150 HP. 3. The E88 for the 1973 Model Year - this head had a redesigned combustion chamber to meet the stricter 73 emissions standards. 44.8 cc 4. The E88 for the 74 Model Year L26. This was the same combustion chamber design as 73 only with the larger 35mm exhaust valve. The L26 used a longer stroke than the L24 but the same bore - so the L26 blocks had "eyebrows" cut in the top of the cylinder bores for the larger valve to clear. If you put the late 71/72 E88 side by side with the 73/74 E88's it is pretty easy to tell them apart. The earlier combustion chambers have a raised or protruding area around the spark plug - the emissions heads don't. The 73/74 E88's have a raised quench area to increase combustion chamber temperatures... good for emissions but bad for HP. This is a subject of some debate. Some say that the increased volume of metal cools combustion chamber temps. Others say that when you compress a gas you increase its temp. Nissan said they increased the combustion temp. to control certain emissions... If you are going to build a higher performance head - you are going to re-work a lot of factors anyway - so find a good straight head, with no micro cracking and go from there. FWIW, Carl B.

Richard Owen took this photo at Amelia Island Concours last year. I know I must have some others somewhere.

Nothing but drawings or artists renderings - not a single picture of a complete/finished car. No "news" since Feb. 08... Looks like it went down the tubes before making it out of the dream stage. Most likely wasn't helped by the financial meltdown - wonder why they didn't get a bail out? Short of spending $225,000.00, I still have not seen a Sports/GT to match the original Datsun 240Z. Nothing even close... FWIW, Carl B.

Here is an example - and not the best one that one can find.. Just on the Tool Box. Looks to be in pretty good shape... Snap-On Box $6000.00 http://tampa.craigslist.org/hil/tls/1127740257.html Looking at the Snap-On On-line Catalog: http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/catalog.asp?tool=storage These are close to the same. Riser, Workstation, 54", Red, BrightTrim (27 1/2" depth) $2890.00 Stock #: KRL7954APBO End Cab, 8 Drawers, Red $2525.00 Stock #: KRL1011APBO Roll Cab, Triple Bank, 22 Drawers, Red $10394.00 Stock #: KRL1023APBO $15809.00 plus 6% sales Tax $948.54 - $16,757.54 I'd bet that if you took CASH - and a truck - you could haul it home for $4500.00. It's been on Craigslist since last month. The REALLY GREAT DEALS sell the same day, so you have to keep checking and have the CASH on hand... This could be at least a good deal.. if you love this style, layout etc. Sellers don't want to hear "I'll have to check with my bank"... When they hear that - the price stays at $6000.00 - standing in front of them with $4500.00 CASH - - will usually buy the whole deal.. Hard to let CASH walk away when you need to sell...

I love Snap-On Tools... Best advice I could give a young man starting out is: 1. DO NOT GO INTO DEBT - - for anything you can save your money to pay cash for. You spend your future income only on a house to live in. 2. The only way to buy Snap-On tools - is to buy them used. Today there are tons of them out there. Shop CraigsList today - I was looking in this area just for kicks. Lots of nearly new Snap-On boxes going for 1/4 of what they cost new.. Show up with CASH in hand, and a truck big enough to haul everything away - and you can do better than that. If you shop used - lay all the real Snap-On tools out of any Snap-On tool box, if your looking at buying a complete used set. See what is really Snap-On in that box, and what isn't, as well as what is missing from wrench/socket sets etc. Don't take the seller word for it that there are $15K worth of tools in that $8K box... Once you lay them all out - and throw out anything that isn't Snap-On.. the sellers will usually lower their price - because at the point they see what is really there, not what they thought was there. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Clive: If you do not understand the meaning of "white trash" - consider yourself lucky. Those of us who have had the misfortune to have lived around the group of people to which the term applies - fully understand the group culture, and are disgusted by it. While most Americans are proud of the fact that we don't consider ourselves as having a rigid "class structure"; and are quite proud of the upward mobility that America offers - we also know what the term "low class" means in cultural terms of values, ethics, morals etc.. "White Trash" is pretty much at the bottom of that terminally lower class group. They are at the bottom mostly because they lack the excuse of racial discrimination or heritage, ie. there is no reason for them to be there, other than their own apathy. I do have to add that the criminal that this thread was started about - would not seem to me to fall into the category. Seems his upbringing, his Mother's position in the middle class etc - fails to qualify him as "white trash"... Rather he's just a Loooooser that pretty much made his own bed.. In a way he's an individual that is worse than white trash... "White Trash" doesn't mean one is criminal in their behavior. FWIW, Carl B.

The VIN info is directly from Nissan Motors. After 1973 when both the Emissions and Safety regulations in the US became far more strict - Nissan Motors USA did do a better job of documenting production dates and Model Year information. If the car is in a Wrecking or Salvage Yard - it is more than likely that the title has been surrendered to the State, and declared "Salvage". If that is the case, then you'll have to apply to the State to get a new State Issued Title -- so the VIN will change to one issued by the State. That is UNLESS the people running the Salvage Yard - do NOT follow the law, and instead just hand you the title that the person that took the car there to begin with handed them. $300.00 isn't much to have at risk - but ask to see the title BEFORE you hand any CASH over to people at Salvage Yards... If the car does come with a "SALVAGE" title - it may be a fun project - but don't expect to be able to sell it for much when your ready to get rid of it... On the other hand - as mentioned - the dash, doors, front fenders, hood and tail gate - if all are actually "perfect" - - are worth several times the purchase price... FWIW Carl B.

The 1976 Model Year DATSUN 280Z's started production in Aug. 1975. The VIN series for the 76 Model Year started with HLS30 27001. FWIW, Carl B.

I don't know - I can not find the curb weight of the vehicle -nor any preformance spec.s How "light" can a tube frame, fiberglass body be today? Nonetheless, very few people would buy a great peforming, ugly car. I think Panos proved that... I totally agree with the concept of a light weight Sports/GT - that's why I have Datsun 240-Z's. The truth is that the Solstice Roadster came in just above 2800lbs - had GM actually produced a fastback coupe - instead of adding a rear roof to the existing roadster - they might have had coupe that weighted under 2500lbs at least... but as usual they blew it.. FWIW, Carl B.

What is all the "Hummer" hate? Are you all just jealous Jeep Guy? GM should keep the Hummer - it's our main military ground transport, we'll need spares and replacements well into the future. My first car was a 57 Pontiac Star Chief Convertible. Loved the Pontiacs up to about 62 and the GTO's up to about 67... past that they never offered anything I wanted. Today, I'd love to have a 61 Cat. Coupe or Bonne Conv. I really liked the original Solstice Coupe concept -it needed a lot of fine tuning, but the concept was good. The concept was for a light weight, sports coupe with great performance and entry level pricing. They never delivered that... and when the finally did offer a coupe - it was an abortion. {a roadster with a phony fastback added}. Damn shame..... 20 years from now however, it would be really neat to have a Bright Yellow Solstice. The styling on sky is a little to "today" and not really as unique as the Solstice. Pontiac made a couple beautiful Station Wagon's in 57/58... Saturn - is viable if it was not burdened by GM's problems. Who Cares - most likely the people that bought new Pontiacs in the last two years - who will see the resale value of their cars drop like a rock.. Who Cares - if GM goes bust - who do you think is responsible for the Employee Retirement Payments? I'll give you a hint - they are insured by Uncle Sam... so get your wallet out again. FWIW, Carl B.

Reviving a thread from more than a year ago - we see that the opinions related to the styling of the 350Z/370Z haven't changed much. I say "styling", because there are some aspects of, or components utilized in, the design that are hard to beat. Reviewing some of the previous comments - I see statements such as; "it looks like...", or "it reminds me of...." Amazing how differently we perceive the form of lines and shapes... "it looks like"... might be true of one thinks that an apple looks like an orange because they are both spherical... I suppose that explains why many people say that the Datsun 240Z looks like the Toyota 2000GT, or that either of them look any like the ugly Nissan 2000GT prototype built to Mr. Goertz specification... "it reminds me of".... well here anything goes. Almost any fastback coupe "reminds me of" being parked in the mountains of Northern Idaho, very late at night circa 1970.... and thinking of how wonderful it was a petite and somewhat flexible young lady could lay almost flat on her back, on the rear deck area of a 240-Z, with room to spare.... {they should have put an inside hatch lid release these cars}. dirty white boy - I totally agree... even if it is NOT PC.... ShaggyZ's remark it was funny as hell... FWIW, Carl B.

Quite possible it is from another State, if so your State would not have it in their data base. DO you have a Tttle for this car?? If so, just go ahead and transfer it to your name. If not, you many have a very hard time getting one. FWIW, Carl B.

.... yes.. they too will use your money for it:burnout: FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Guys: I'll spend a minute on this - because if you are in Florida - it is important. First - yes. It is the law that you yield a lane to emergency vehicles that are stopped on or beside the road. I'm pretty sure that the law specifies a maximum speed past them - 35mph perhaps. I know it's 20 mph here in Largo, Florida. Second - yes. There is a law against impeding traffic flow here. However, as written the State Police have to see that certain conditions exist - last time I looked there had to be some large number of vehicles being held up, before law enforcement could pull the offender over. "Keep Right Except To Pass" - legislation was passed in both Houses of the Florida Legislature year before last. Had Governor Bush signed it - it would have applied to all limited access, multi-lane highways within the State of Florida. "Keep Right Except To Pass" - is the law in many States. It was developed to assure a smooth flow of traffic on our Interstate Freeway System. A smooth flow of traffic avoids the "accordion effect" that takes place when faster traffic catches up with slower traffic - and is forced to reduce speed at a sudden rate. When this happens, a few miles back traffic comes to a complete stop. Then we see the stop and go pattern on the freeway, when there is no accident nor incident that should have slowed traffic to a stand still. "Keep Right Except To Pass" - is really good highway safety engineering at work. The auto hobby lobby {SEMA Action Network} worked very hard to get the "Keep Right Except To Pass" legislation through both Houses of the Florida Legislature - mostly because it would have reduced the incidents of "Road Rage", caused by inconsiderate, un-educated drivers - displaying a complete disregard for anyone else on the road with them. Governor Bush - in refusing to sign the legislation into law - said that he didn't believe anyone should get a traffic ticket as long as they were driving within the Speed Limit in any lane. Two weeks after - an incident of Road Rage took the life of a very popular M.D. The Doc. was driving in the left lane on the freeway - holding up traffic behind him, and causing that accordion effect. Someone worked their way up behind him - and when the opportunity presented itself - they whipped around him on the Right - then when just past him - they swerved back into the left lane ahead of him... ie they cut him off. The Doc. whipped his car to the Left to avoid being hit - but then he lost control of his SUV and rolled it. With a new Governor in office - perhaps we can get the same legislation though the Florida Legislature, and maybe the new Governor will sign it this time - before more lives are needlessly lost. Our highways would be a LOT safer for everyone - IF - we let the Highway Safety Engineers develop the traffic codes, and build the highways designed for safety. Instead, just like everything else in our lives today - we're driven by Politicians of both Parties - that make Politically Correct traffic laws. FWIW, Carl B.

On the other hand - if it already has a title, but from some other State - it's no problem getting a Florida Title issued. In that case all you need is the signed title from any State, an inspection form filled out to verify the VIN. That signed title has to show you as the Buyer... as well as being signed by the seller. If there is no place on the title to record the Buyer Name - then you will need a signed "Bill Of Sale" that shows ownership passing to you. It was most likely brough into the US by some military personel. Back in the 60's and 70's one just took the title, bill of sale to the DMV - and they would issue a title. FWIW, Carl B.