rsicard
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Posts posted by rsicard
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I still have many of these available...
Thanks!
Richard
Richard, if you still have some I would like to purchase same. Do you accept a payment via PayPal? Please advise. Thanks.
Rolland Sicard
Tucson, Arizona.
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Yeah, I am looking for a somewhat permanent solution, but if I have to redo the wrap every so often, that wouldn't be terrible as long as it doesn't damage the headers.
I don't really care what it looks like as long as it works. The black headers I have now are probably next to worthless as far as sealing to the heads, they have a flimsy looking flange and it looks like it is already warped/warping. They are also nothing that fantastic to look at, they're flat black and kind of don't fit my orange/brushed aluminum/chrome theme, anyway.
I'll look into Swain coatings. I'd prefer something that doesn't cost like $500, but if I can order it and get it ready to bolt on, that would be ideal. Just looking to lower the temps in my engine bay to avoid potential failures in the future. I plan on getting some heat shielding for my battery and starter, as it is.
The most cost effective solution is to purchase the Stainless Steel KMJ Block Hugger Headers and wrap them with a good heat wrap. This is a VERY EFFECTIVE method of reducing under-hood heat. I have purchase the KMJ Block Hugger Headers and they fit just fine as they have clearance between the steering shaft and the headers. I plan on using plenty of exhaust wrap not only on the headers but also further back to reduce heat migration into the transmission and differential as they will be generating their own heat. If necessary may circulate T56 trans fluid through the cooler built into the radiator.
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What is Jet-Coating? Where would I take it to have it done?
I need more information than "just do this."
And, at $100 per header, I might as well get different headers while I'm at it.
Go to Ebay. Look for Stainless Steel SBC Block Hugger Headers form KMJ. Order same, install and heat wrap. Done.
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The REALLY good factory small block are VERY RARE! The good ones have been sonic tested for cylinder wall thickness. The better choice is the Summit Racing block or Dart SHP blocks. When assembling with selected parts for the bottom end the level of quality will be KNOWN not in question. Per the linked article the AFR cylinder heads are ahead of their competitors for Gen I and II SBCs.
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Being involved with Audis more than Datsuns lately, have you considered the 2.7T V6? They are great engines that can make 375HP at (all four of) the wheels with bolt-ons only. If you can find one that already has the upgraded K04 turbos on it, the only thing you would have to worry about is eliminating the DBW throttle body. Everything else is typical engine swap stuff.
Anyways, just another option, and a V6 could sit further back than other options (except maybe the 13B).
There is one big drawback to the Audi V6 engine with Drive By Wire. That is the electronics for the drive-train. If the owner of the Datsun into which the Audi V6 is installed has considerable experience in electronics, embedded computer systems and Controller Area Networks (CAN) and he is a wiring guru then the swap is doable. Otherwise not. Using modern (exotic?) engines, be they made on shore or off shore, the persons swapping them need to be very knowledgeable in three different fields which is extremely rare.
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hey all, i'm finally finishing up my 79 280zx resto, and i'm changing all of the signal lights to LED.
but word on the street tells me that i have heat resistant flashers, and the relay won't work with LED bulbs.
What is the right electronic flasher to get so my signals will work properly?
Electronic Flasher should be easy to find. Instead of 2 connecting lugs the electronic flashers have 3 lugs. Careful when replacing to get the proper connections. The third lug needs to be grounded. If there is a second flasher for emergency mode, two electronic flashers need to be purchased.
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It's not the only lean chamber. They all had similar pitting. I think it was due to the JWT reflashed ecu, terrible wiring from the PO, and the wrong injectors used with the JWT reflashed ECU. Ironcally the injectors used were 750CC instead of the 420CC injectors that JWT recommends.
Zack_280:
It is obvious that detonation is the cause of the pitting wherein some of the material has melted away. It was not said what type ECU was reflashed. Need to determine what the compression ratio is of the present setup. More importantly the MSII ECU needs to have adjustable timing map and VE map that are somewhat easy to change. What will be the method by which the MSII attains crankshaft timing? What is the present setup of the EFI and Spark timing by the reflashed ECU? Ignition timing on a boosted engine is VERY important over the whole RPM and dynamic load range. As the engine is lugged down with dynamic load the spark timing needs to be automatically adjusted appropriately otherwise detonation is CERTAIN. The crank timing method needs to very accurate and the ECU needs to be reprogrammed based on appropriate feedback data. Also photograph the tops of the pistons for reference purposes.
One sure fire method to arrest damage to the head and pistons is to have them coated with ceramic coating. I have done this in my shop and the results are very good. I presently am outfitting a Small Block Chev V8 to a 240Z with Electromotive TEC3 Ignition and EFI and it is VERY precise ignition and fuel injection system. The preliminary stages of EFI setup are already done. Have experience in previous EFI modifications.
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rsicard:
I JUST installed the Techno Versions mount last week, I have an SBC swap with R200 on a series one (no tool box, rear hatch vents 1/1971). I had to do some modifications to the mount itself to fit the GM poly bushing on the diff, just re-drilled the mounting hole further back and then relieved some material from the back stiffening rib to allow room for the bushing. I ended up not having to notch the bushing.
I ended up using it in conjunction with the stock rubber mount and xmember. My diff doesn't move at all, anymore. I love it, makes the car feel so much more solid on the road. Well worth the $100 I spent and the couple hours disassembling, measuring and cutting/drilling.
Really appreciate your comments as they are valuable. What modifications were made to the RT mount in order to accommodate the GM poly trans mount? Don't understand the portion of the comment about using the stock rubber mount or is that the outer mounts for the front(s) of the suspension "A" arm(s)?
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^^
Thanks for the reply, know exaclty how hard it is to help me out here.
Just to clarify a few things.
1. My budget is €20.000, thats roughly $ 28000 (my bad)
2. Power output I'm after is 400-450 FWHP so NOT RWHP
3. Car will be streetlegal, but most of the time to drive it to the track. Some level of comfort would be appreciated... Will also use the stock dash, 2 seats etc
4. I will do most of the work myself, got a garage complete with all the bits and pieces to start a business myself
5. Because I already own a slightly tuned Viper GTS, I prefer a car with a turbo just because I also like the "push"
6. A turbo'd engine is not a must when there is an N/A engine available with better powerband and capable to achieve my power goals., hench the TVR V8
7. I just don't want a american V8 engine, not really liking the sound of it in a Datsun and its been before so many times, I rather take something a little bit more unique.
I don't think finding parts will be to difficult, lots of importing companies overhere and prices are OK.
Read a lot of info on HybridZ and by the looks of it, a 2JZ-GTE or SR20DET seems to be a "easy" way. Engines are also pretty cheap to buy in England.
I also have an broken 13B rx7 engine laying around, will see how that fits the enginebay of the datsun, its roughly the same as a 20B engine...
Choices choices choices........
Trying to make 400-450 FWHP on 20K is going to be a real challenge assuming the body is in very good condition.
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The RT bracket works just fine with the L6 and only the GM mount (no OEM mount). You need to notch the the mount slightly to fit the rounded nose of the diff.
Nigel
'73 240ZT
Nigel:
That is a very good tip to notch the GM mount to fit the rounded nose of the diff. The RT bracket as fabricated from the drawing needs to have the horizontal cross brace of the bracket on the forward side in other words just reverse the mounting as that shown on the drawing. Otherwise it just gets in the way of things. I have the Energy Suspension GM urethane mount and will grind/notch for the round nose of the diff. If lucky may fit as I have a R200 Long nose diff in a 1971 Datsun 240Z with the original forward "A" Arm mount/pivot from the original R180 diff mount.
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Don't forget the "small things" people normally don't think about during engine swaps but it comes to roost when it comes to first-start and initial tuning time.
Think about what accessories you're going to need to otherwise replace or upgrade to support the new engine.
Fuel:
The stock fuel lines in a Z might support a factory stock SBC, but you start doing anything performance wise and you've put yourself way outside that envelope. So, new fuel lines and an appropriate pump/regulator combo are in order. Depending on how much fuel you need and what kind of system you're running, this may mean adding a sump to the stock fuel tank with bigger lines or getting a different tank altogether.
Cooling:
There's a million different opinions on what to do with the cooling system. Personally, I like a good flowing electric fan, the biggest one you can find to fit whatever radiator you end up with, a good shroud and the right components (like on temp switch and thermostat).
Starter:
Starters are another thing, do you plan on going above 9.5:1 static CR? You might find that a lot of the available OEM starters don't work so hot in that application, also clearance with block-huggers (a necessity in an S30, unless you want to drop ridiculous cash on custom made headers) becomes an issue.
Electrical:
Now, you have a nice big cooling fan, high torque starter, electric fuel-pump and don't forget, the ignition is going to require more juice since you've got two extra cylinders and double, even triple the displacement. You're going to need relays for most of these new accessories, so you have to think about how you want to mount them, wire them in, etc. You're also going to need a beefier battery to give you enough starting power (what if it's a warm day, you drove your car somewhere and now the fan is on when you start the engine again? and now you have an electric fuel pump that may draw as much as 7 amps). Also, working over the grounds in the S30 electrical system goes a long way. You can replace all the wiring, but the stock harness was pretty well sealed and insulated, it just starts to lack stable grounds as it ages.
Drive-train:
The V8 has a lot more rotating mass than the small-displacement L6s. The L6 rods are tiny by comparison to SBC rods. This is what presents the biggest stress to your drive-train. I think it's safe to say you'll be using some permutation or incarnation of an other wise standard GM transmission, but what about the diff? Like I said, 250hp from a built up L6 is different than 250hp from a V8. You're going to hit that torque peak much sooner, you're going to have more of it available off-idle, add to that you've got the rotating mass which is probably equivalent to 2 L6s spinning around driving the thing. My car feels like a motor-cycle, now that I have the v8 in it, in that I can feel the gyro effect from the crank, trans, drive-shaft and everything spinning. Sounds crazy, but I'm sure there are other members that will echo this.
If I had to do it all over again, I'd concentrate on all of this stuff and put a stock or refreshed SBC in. Overbuild the support equipment, then down the road when I have the money buy a crate motor or something.
The small things are exactly that. The engine is the heart of the matter providing propulsion along with the transmission and rear end. A more powerful engine says that you need better supporting machinery to augment a more powerful power-plant. The 383 SBC is about the most cost effective (best ROI) approach to more power in a compact package. The refinements to it just make it more efficient. 1.3 HP/Cu In is good for a normally aspirated engine. And a better HP/Cu In figure can be obtained.
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Its degrading into a "my engine is better then your engine" thread. We've seen this many time before on HybridZ when a poster asks for opinions on which engine to choose for their swap. The admins have discussed banning this type of discussion before but we've held back.
IMHO, an engine choice is an emotional choice and efforts to turn it into a rational/logical choice are foolish, unless you are in some type of competitive race series. Again, IMHO, because its an emotional choice some folks feel the need to defend their own choice of an engine for their HybridZ. Arguments ensue about which engine is more powerful, which is more advanced, which is more "pure", etc. none of which has anything to do with a specific person's emotional response to a particular engine. There's no need for that here.
John:
Emotions, not rational/logical decisions, are going to be involved in discussions. Cost, parts availability, population and least complexity should be the objective for selecting a reliable and powerful engine.
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Yeah, but that one is for the old school SBC that uses a belt driven water pump. LT1 water pump runs off the cam and not the belt.
Understand. With the Camaro factor brackets I recommended before on Ebay the conventional SBC water pump can be eliminated by running a shorter serpentine belt which runs the AC and alternator off the crank pulley.
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I'm taking bets on how many more posts are made here before I shed this thread. I'm guessing 1.
What is your objection to cause shredding of this thread? People expressing themselves shows their level of knowledge and experience. So long as their is no nastiness. Please reply John.
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Go with the LT1 long block, its a SBC 350 already.
Of course I am a little partial to the whole thing...
The Generation 1 SBC can be as effective as the LT1 and parts and options are more plentiful. Summit Racing has 350 blocks already prepared for 383 stroker components. The cost effective approach is to go directly with the Summit block, Scat cast 3.75 stroke crankshaft, scat I beam rods and SRP Pro Pistons. This is an easy assembly of parts. Add an oil pump and pan and the bottom end is done. Add a good camshaft, pete jackson timing gear drive and timing cover. Then go with self oiling solid roller lifters (.300 taller), Comp Cams heavy wall push rods, 1.6 ratio rocker arms and AFR cylinder heads. The latter will be the most expensive but well worth the price. Then you will know EXACTLY what you have in the engine.
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Go to Ebay item number 320692423832
And it all fits under the hood of the 240Z. Proven twice so far. Questions?
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LT1240Z
I have installed a Small Block Chevrolet Generation 1 into a 240Z. Went on Ebay and purchased accessory brackets from a Camaro that mount GM AC compressor, Alternator, Power Steering Pump and Smog pump if needed. Can be used less the PS pump and Smog pump with shorter serpentine belt. These brackets should fit up to the LT1. Any questions?
Go to Ebay item number 320692423832
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In the process of building my L28-et I plan on slapping on a new carb setup on my L26. I'm not going to go into details about the L28 by I'm looking for input on power gains on carburated L series. Any input on the different setups is welcome, eg: SU's, triple webers, 4 barrel conversions, etc. I'm looking for the biggest bang for my buck while I wait for the real power!! Also, please don't try to dissuade me from doing this. I don't care about the extra costs or how pointless it may be. I simply enjoy working on my car, plus if the L28 blows up down the road this could be a good back up.
Thanks in advance for reading and commenting!
Think about Fuel Injection. Purchase a 4 barrel manifold and put a 4 barrel throttle body on it for fuel injection. Have the manifold machined for fuel injector bungs and tig them in place. I have experience with several fuel injection systems and the most flexible is the Electromotive system. Carbs have rich and lean spots up and down the RPM and load curves. Fuel injection can tune out all the irregularities and is very consistent.
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Sorry guys, but forgot the mention I do NOT want a V8 engine expect a V8 from a TVR. Don't really like the sounds of V8 engines in a japanese sportscar...... no offence!
American V8s provide a LOT of power and performance for the money. Don't be one sided. Overhead cam engines have more parts to fail than American Pushrod V8s and have to be pushed to high RPMs and boosted to make good power. Proper transmission and rear end gearing integrated with the engine power band is important.
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I need a wire going to the Alternator, starter, and tach, I believe that is it. I will run all new wires for my gauges. Other than those three wires, It seems like everything can come out, right?
The alternator will need a heavy gauge wire from it to a fuse block and then to the positive battery lead.
Alternator will also require a lighter gauge wire for excitation from fuse block in run position of ignition key. The battery positive will need another heavy gauge wire to the starter.
The starter will need a light gauge wire to the ignition switch hot in start position of key.
Ignition coil will need a hot wire from key in start and run positions.
Low side of ignition coil going to points or solid state distributor switch can have tach attached to it.
Oil pressure sender and engine temperature sender will both need light gauge wires going to them.
Radiator Fan will need heavy gauge wire going to it from heavy current relay tied back to heavy fuse tied back to battery positive.
AC compressor if used will need clutch control wiring.
Headlight wiring needs to have heavy current relays put in series with positive or ground side of circuits to eliminate Datsun design fault.
Same with running lights and turn signals or switch them to replacement LED bulbs.
Electronic Speedometer if used will need two light gauge wire from Trans to Speedometer.
Some existing wiring can be used and some new wiring may have to be added. Make a list and check it many times until it becomes VERY clear in your mind.
Any more questions?
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I have a 1973 240z with an LT1 and 4l60e trans of a 1993 z28.
I wanted to know if any one has been able to run ac, heating, and defrost with this type of conversion and what would I need or if theres companies that sell kits. I would also like to know about how much it would cost.
LT1240Z
I have installed a Small Block Chevrolet Generation 1 into a 240Z. Went on Ebay and purchased accessory brackets from a Camaro that mount GM AC compressor, Alternator, Power Steering Pump and Smog pump if needed. Can be used less the PS pump and Smog pump with shorter serpentine belt. These brackets should fit up to the LT1. Any questions?
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Same thing, just updated to allow brake and fuel line clearance.
The technoversion has ADDITIONAL clearance for the fuel and brake lines. Fabbed the Ron Tyler mount per the original drawing and tryed to put it into my Datsun 240Z. The strap holes are closer together on the 240Z. Made two additional holes and installed. There was not clearance for the GM mount on the top of the retrofitted R200 differential. Made a steel snubber block with rubber cushion on top to collide with Ron Tyler mount. As typical there are no dimensions on the technoversion to know that it is taller than the Ron Tyler designed mount to accommodate the GM mount. Need to contact Technoversion to find out if their mount is taller than the Ron Tyler one.
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To be honest, and I think JM already touched on it, the Wolf Creek set-up seems expensive at first, but when you get to putting a kit together yourself you start realizing it's actually quite reasonably priced.
I ended up spending about $1100 on my conversion and I thought I did pretty well for that much. I got 280Z stub axles/hubs (the 240z stub axles can shear), and a set of modified 280Z companion flanges another member was selling (from modern motorsports, and it came with an extra set of CV axles), new inner/outer wheel bearings and a reman'd set of 300zx turbo CVs. Granted, I'm running on R200 (which is necessary for 300ZXT CVs), just because with a V8 I don't want to chance it-- it's A LOT more rotating mass than the L6. Also, I'm not an expert, but I'd imagine that the Subaru clutch packs in the LSD assembly weren't designed for the low-end torque of an American V8, I know for some this has been an issue with the Nissan CLSDs.
When it comes to the power and torque of a V8 engine, the 280Z stub axles have an inherent design weak spot. Best to go with the MM beefy stub axles.
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I'm finally getting to start on my 260. The pictures in the JTR book vary slightly from my engine bay.
I'm a little afraid of just ripping all this. Most of the connections are just plugs, but when it comes to pulling wires permanently, I dont want to remove anything just to put it back. I'm attempting to keep the A/C, and I'm running an HEI. I should only need about 3-4 wires in the engine bay, right?
There's several things on the fenders wells, and firewall, and I just dont know what they are.
Don't rip out ANY WIRING unless you know for absolute certain that it will not be needed! The later Datsun/Nissan wiring diagrams are VERY CONFUSING. Go to Ebay and purchase color 11x17" wiring diagrams and then sort out for CERTAIN what is not needed!
gm hei question
in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Posted
The Autometer Tach is somewhat on the expensive side. If the 327 was installed with the JTR engine mount kit, then the hood latch mount needs to be replaced such that the HEI distributor can be installed by pulling the hood latch and mount, installing the HEI and putting back the mount and hood latch. Check with Speedhut on their Tachs as they are 1" smaller in diameter. Then the factory tach can be removed with the dash in place, remove the guts of the factory tach saving the metal backshell. The gut the metal backshell and have a circular adapter ring made to fit the Speedhut tach and inside the metal backshell. Tack weld this adapter ring into the metal backshell at an appropriate depth and feed the wires through the back of the backshell and hook up same. The Speedhut tach illumintes through the dial as this is not always the case with the Autometer Gauges. Just hook up the backlight to +12v all the time the key is in the run position. New VWs have max bright on gauges all the time day or night and it provides VERY GOOD VISIBILITY.