rsicard
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Posts posted by rsicard
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I think your info is incorrect but thats just my opinion. I'm done with this conversation. I hated the LT1 and its horrible aftermarket cost per HP. Its now where near what the LS engine is per dollar
The information is QUITE CORRECT. With a little research the proper components for a LT-1 can be found. Just to prove so, look at the Dyno runs on AFR cylinder heads sight. They learned from the latest Chevrolet Corvette cylinder heads tricks which DO NOT have cathedral intake ports. They have gone back to rectangular port heads and specific CNC machining to enhance swirl of the intake mixture. With the proper build bottom, top end and without a Turbo Charger 500+ HP and 500+ TQ is easily attainable. As said before, the MSD billet Opti Spark distributor takes care of the distributor problems on the LT-1. I know from personal experience, I had an LT-1 and it is still running fine with 100,00+ miles on it and still runs like NEW. I am building one of these 500+ HP/TQ GEN 1 SBCs right now and it EXCEEDS the specs of the Dyno'd ones on AFR Internet Site! Have learned a lot over the years of rebuilding engines! Ford is STILL trying to build engines that match GM (Push Rod) engines for HP TQ etc. They just have a LOT MORE parts in their engines which can fail. Much has been learned about swirl, tumble and quench in wedge type cylinder heads. I use all the latest affordable racing tricks available in building Small Block Chev (SBC) engines. Best horsepower and torque for the smallest package!
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66 Coupes in this condition usually sell between 12-18K and that's not nearly what I've got into it. The coupes don't sell for as much as the fastbacks do. I wouldn't take less than 15K and this 240Z probably has about 15K alone in the drive train. Supposedly this was about a 50K build. If I got it I would just use it for the occasional rip around town and the 1/4 mile at Sacramento Raceway grudge nights...
Does anyone on here know this car? It was built by a guy named Larry who lives up in Nor Cal somewhere. I don't think he ever posted on the internet.
Boat:
Keep the Mustang and find an early 240Z that is as rust free as possible. Then if you want a performer of a Z modify it by putting in a V8 and beef up the diff, half shafts, stub axles, suspension and sub frame. Am in the process of doing same for use at road race, drag strip and street. Takes some doing but the process of buildup can be fun.
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Wow! Lots of good info Grumpy. The more I read up on the LT1 the more attractive it becomes, though I have to admit it is tough for me to overcome my affinity for large bore short stroke engines like the 377 or 352. I would really like to build an LT1 396, but I just don't think I can swing ~$1000 for a billet stroker crank, on top of the cost of the forged rods and pistons that I would like. Maybe a .030" over LT1 with a large cam and some AFR heads with a little port work would be the way to go.
No port work needed with competition AFR heads. Go to their site and look at the Dyno runs to get an idea of parts combinations to achieve 500+ HP on 383 cu in. Use light weight JE SRP professional pistons, SCAT crank and I beam rods. Ceramic coat piston crowns, Zero deck the block and use thin head gaskets for best quench. Go to Solid Roller Lifters, aggressive camshaft lift/duration and 1.6 ratio rockers. Intake Manifold ports to match heads. Easy to achieve 500+ HP and TQ.
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"Could have saved you MUCH grief by modifying the LT-1 to get 500+ HP and Torque from it in Naturally Aspirated Configuration. See AFR heads SBC Dyno Tests. Their heads are FAR superior to the GM cathedral port cylinder heads. GM finally went back to rectangular intake ports on the latest Gen V SBC in the Corvette and Camaro and upped the performance over the cathedral port heads. AFR already had Gen I and Gen II (LT1) heads with the latest Corvette/Camaro intake port configuration as I witnessed at SEMA in Las Vegas."
I have no intrest in that POS LT1 engine anymore
. I couldn't stand replaceing that thing they call a distributor every summer due to the smallest amount of water getting even near it. I was bored with the power and maintance of keeping it running. I wanted more power and I wasn't about to spend another dime on that set up. Not only that I enjoy doing stuff like this. Its been way to long since I did something like this to my car and it was much needed! A properly maintained LT-1 with an appropriately made distributor and the right combination of the right components will be VERY reliable and LOTS of power. The Gen III and IV don't have much on the Gen I and II SBC V8s. Maybe somewhat better cooling but as far as Heads, Intake Manifolds, Camshaft and EFI there is VERY LITTLE technological difference.
I did get my TC78 turbo, JGS 50mm BOV, JGS 50mm wastegate, and E-boost 2 boost controller ordered! I should be able to finish up the hotside piping in the next week or 2!
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Well I found out that the C6 manifolds will work but I need to use 2 left side ones. The passenger side is pointed to the rear and the drivers side is pointed towards the front. So far so good!
80LT1:
Could have saved you MUCH grief by modifying the LT-1 to get 500+ HP and Torque from it in Naturally Aspirated Configuration. See AFR heads SBC Dyno Tests. Their heads are FAR superior to the GM cathedral port cylinder heads. GM finally went back to rectangular intake ports on the latest Gen V SBC in the Corvette and Camaro and upped the performance over the cathedral port heads. AFR already had Gen I and Gen II (LT1) heads with the latest Corvette/Camaro intake port configuration as I witnessed at SEMA in Las Vegas.
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rsicard,
Switch is made by Grote. Universal turn signal switch part #48272 also buy wire harness #69680 that plugs right into it and the flasher suggested. Your turn signals
are now wired with a color coded instruction sheet which is ultra straight forward and explains it word for word. Hope this helps
Lane
Long240project:
Thanks a BUNCH for this info.
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Long240project:
Who makes or where is that turn signal stalk available. Please advise. Thanks.
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Fuel injection is really cool and the tuneability is really amazing even using a stock GM ECU but not every motor needs to be injected. A properly tuned carb is just as good as a properly tuned injection setup. Carbs are cheaper and the tuning one is a really simple matter if you can turn a screwdriver. Fuel injection is also easy to tune provided you have the right mindset it has the disadvantage of being more expensive and electrically complex. Too say one is better than the other is foolish, however neither one has anything to do with the durability of the motor. You are trying to make it seem like a carb dumps grotesque amount of fuel every time you open the throttle. It just isn't the case, granted you have to pump it once to set the choke. Big deal, look at the cranking PW of an injector and see how much longer it is than at idle.
Over the RPM range of the engine, the Carb will have rich and lean curves. The screwdriver can only set the IDLE fuel mixture. Granted EFI is more expensive than a Carb. But EFI is tunable, both Fuel and Ignition, THOUGHOUT the RPM range. With Carbs the main jets need to be changed with changes in Barometric Pressure and Humidity to achieve optimum mixture burn. EFI continually uses feedback from the exhaust to adjust fuel mixture for optimum quality throughout the RPM range.
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Found out the ECU is bad, going to try to find one locally, if not send mine in to get replaced/repaired with the eprom reflashed.
If I can't get it running correctly by feb 1st then on to the 383 swap.
With a good ECU, wiring harness, Optispark, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator and plug wires everything should be a GO. MSD makes a VERY GOOD replacement for the Opti-Spark much better than the originals. 1994, 1995 were OBDI wheras 1996 was OBDII and much more complicated.
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You make it sound like a carb is the devil. There is no difference between the fuel injected small block and carbed one. Plus carbs are cheaper and they wont make your "short block decay at an accelerated rate". Yeah if your a retard and use don't tune it it will make the thing run pig rich but a little know how will make a huge difference. 400 horse for a grand is not outside the realm of possibilities if you spend your money wisely. A good carb, intake, ported heads, cam, and headers will make 400 pretty easy. All of that can be had for less than a grand if you know to where to look.
The Carb is the DEVIL. They take a LOT more maintenance than a good Fuel Injection System to keep them in good condition. Typical TBI injected 350 engines from the junk yard have MUCH less wear than the carb'd 350 engines with the same mileage. The carbs tend to wash down the cylinders with raw fuel especially on start-up. Typically if the choke system works properly on the carb, then one pump on the gas pedal usually sets the choke to the proper position when COLD. This shot of RAW fuel will tend to wash down cylinder walls on at least one cylinder. Multiple pumps on the gas pedal just make the situation WORSE. It is surprising the comments to the former post on this subject and the number of negative responses to same.
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attached are the pictures of Engine No. 1 the seller sent me:
The block is a Pre 1987 two piece rear main seal block. The only thing of value MIGHT be LOW MILEAGE Pistons, Rods and Crankshaft. If the mileage is UNKNOWN, then look for another one. Ditch the aluminum rockers as aluminum has a tendency to crack whereas steel will NOT.
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http://www.superchev...uild/index.html
I am hoping for some input from people who are experienced with engine building. I was wondering if this is actually possible or did they doctor the results just to give the article a happy ending. Per the article they got 407 hp at 5,900 rpm and 410 lb-ft of torque at 4,500 rpm; if this is true this is incredibly good value for money.
Logan1:
Yes it is doable IF a Fuel Injected 350 engine with a good bottom end, compression and oil pressure can be found. Without this it WILL NOT BE DOABLE for $1000.. Further, with a Carb for induction, the short block will go down hill at an accelerated rate. If fuel injection is used and proper oil changes, then the short block will last LONGER.
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Hey guys I'm buying a SBC of craigslist and was wanting a little input on the engine in question. I am interested in motor No.1 for $500.
Below is the ad as it appeared in CL:
In his email to me the seller stated the following: "I have everything but distributor and Carb needs the valve springs put on and heads n intake bolted up and its ready to go. Also the motor has Double hump heads on it."
I am well aware that you cannot tell if the engine is worth the money or not without physically inspecting it but thought that if nothing else you guys could give me a good idea of what to looks for and what questions to ask the seller.
any and all help is appreciated.
Logan1:
The first engine sounds like the most promising. Find out how many miles are on it. Suspect the piston and rods were CHEAP. Find out if it was bored and how much and if the pistons are non-forged. (cheap). Find out if it has the original crank and if the mains or rod journals were turned down. Find out what cylinder heads. If not performance heads get the price reduced. Heads, cam, intake and Carb determine the performance of the engine. The most sure way to go is with a rebuilt short block and performance cylinder heads unless a MILD engine is what will be settled for.
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As far as i know the t56 uses an electric signal and the stock tac doesnt. I could be wrong i havnt looked into it yet, just waiting to get everything balanced now.
Dunlop:
Likely you are very correct. I also have a T56 that came from a 93-97 camaro/firebird and it has an electronic pulse output for the speedometer. It is only recently that new T56 are manufactured with either electronic or mechanical speedo cable output. The latter requires proper speedo gears to match up with the mechanical speedo in the vehicle. The modern electronic speedos are much easier to interface to modern custom speedos.
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I tried to do what everyone else did, but sleeper it is not.
After i get the breaks in order im headed back to the welder.
LeroyLucky:
The workmanship on that exhaust system is FIRST CLASS! It doesn't get any better than that. Two bullets resonator/muffler prior to the final muffler. Are all three the same part number? Are they truly resonators or mufflers? Who is the manufacturer of all three? Is that 2.5" exhaust tubing? Please advise. Thanks.
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Rsicard,
The wiring project was kicked off a long time ago and is a done deal now. When the car was taken down I strip every single wire out of it. The car is in reality a race car so my wiring is super simple compared to trying to make every bell and whistle that it came stock with work. Will your SBC be fuel injected or Carb? You can buy an upgraded mini fuse panel that plugs right into the existing harness if you havent taken your wiring out as I did. Tell me more about the current state of the wiring and where you wanna end up and I am sure I can help. Also I will take some pics of the turn signal stalk I used!! Its super trick and super compact and has turn indicators that also light up self contained. It's hard to cover everything on here so if you are interested once i post the pics we can discuss via phone. If you want use my method.
Lane
Lane:
I have Electromotive (sequential port) fuel injection. Have studied all the fuel injection options and this one appears to be as good as the best from FAST. I will try to reverse engineer the stock 240Z turn signal and headlight/wiper stalks so that I can understand how to rewire them along with an standard and more expanded fuse panel. Will add heavy relays to the headlights and cooling fan etc. Likely convert over to LED easy replacements for the bulbs in taillights, marker lights, turn signal and brake lights. Front brakes will get upgraded. Convert to power steering and hydroboost for the brakes. Have brackets for power steering pump and Air Conditioning compressor, Alternator and water pump. Found the JTR radiator sent to me is TOO TALL. Going to a Griffin Racing radiator for the all out 383 stroker SBC. Want to race the car (road race) and drive also on the street and maybe the drag strip. In the process of wiring the Fuel Injection and Engine Bay.
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Now i just need to figrue something out for the speedo.
What is the issue with the Speedo?
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Finally got wiring kicked off!
Long240project:
What is being done with the wiring? Did you find a fuse block and wiring kit that will go into the 240Z? What will be done with the turn signal and headlight switch stalks? I have to go through this process myself with a SBC and T56 trans in a 240Z. Hoping you will share some of your thoughts on this process.
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Gentlemen:
Have been running the JTR radiator with a SBC engine on a test stand. With a Tarus two speed fan on high speed during cool weather in Arizona appears to be just adequate. This does not account for an Air Conditioning Condenser in front of the JTR radiator. Removed the JTR radiator from the run-in stand and tried for fit in the 1971 240Z. With the JTR lower radiator mount in place and trying the radiator for fit, found that the HOOD WILL NOT SHUT. First the radiator cap hit the hood (Too Tall). Secondarily the top of the JTR radiator will interfere with the hood also (Too Tall!). Carefully measured and went shopping on Summit Racing for a higher capacity and dimensionally compatible radiator and found ONE model of Griffin Radiator that fits and has dual row 1 inch tube which should have much more cooling capacity than the JTR radiator.
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JonRHD:
Go to Ebay and under wiring diagrams for datsuns there is color 11x17" wiring diagrams. These are VERY good and for a '73 it should be a Series 2 240Z. Already have one of these for my '71 240Z Series 1 and it is a very GOOD wiring diagram.
Regards,
Rolland Sicard
Tucson, Arizona
Hello All!
I am currently in the beginning stages of doing a KA swap into my 73 Fairlady. I have looked everywhere (searched here, Xenon S30, ect...) and cannot seem to find a relaible wiring diagram for the car. There is always something wrong such as the number of wires in a bundle or some such. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for a 73 Nissan Fairlady that they might be willing to post?
Thanks!
--Jon
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Connect the two removed Tach sense wires together and the car should start. The Tach is in a series ignition circuit sensing coil current to extract pulses to register RPM.
Regards,
Rolland Sicard
I took my tach out of the dash Friday and mailed it to JCI for recalibration for LS2 conversion. Other than pulling the tach, I haven't done anything else, and it still has the L24 in it. Tried to start car today to get to the table saw on the other side of it and it won't start. It was cold last night and I haven't bothered my daughter to turn the key while I checked spark, but I'm hoping for an easy answer from the smart experienced folks on the forum rather than standing in the freezing cold trying to figure it out. Straight Question: If all else is fine, should my 240z start and run with the tach removed or is it somehow in the ignition circuit?
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Hi guys. I had an account here all the way since I dont know, but it appears my account is invalid. Just want to show some starter pics of my existing project. Its a 1972 240z with a wide kit. Adjustable koni suspension, channeled frame, front/rear stabilizer bars and 300z rear end. The engine is a Dodge 400 Bigblock with a TQ 704. Autometer gauges, demon, edelbrock and his buddies.
This is the last photo I took today involving this engine combo.
Tomorrow I will start removing the Dodge engine/tranny to slap in a seasoned over 468/TH400. I will be adding some photos and video as I go website permitting. There are a few things/changes I am making to the car exterior wise as well.
Anyhow just thought id share.
Mace: Glad that you could share! Going to a big block eh? Remember, cylinder heads, camshaft and fuel air source configurations make all the DIFFERENCE in performance. I have built and all out Small Block Chev 383 stroker, AFR heads, compcams camshaft, all forged bottom end, shaft rockers, solid roller lifters and Electromotive EFI (best I have found) for my 1971 240Z.
Regards,
Rolland Sicard
Tucson, Arizona
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As far as I know those only work with the engine in the MSA position and possibly the Scarab position. They will not work with the JTR kit in the set back position.
On that note, rsicard, what position is your engine in?
I think the MSA position is the Scarab position. Have not yet installed the SBC V8 but have the JTR kit and mounts. The V8 is on the engine run-in stand with a modified Q-jet carb and it runs very well. Put a LOT of money into this engine for 500+ HP and Torque! This is why I want 1 3/4" primary and 3" collector headers. Probably just getting the run-around from Sanderson. Their 1 7/8" block huggers, per their website, are 4" from flange to outer portion of primaries. Just wondering if I can use the 1 7/8" headers with 3" collectors. If one of you fellows with the SBC V8 and JTR kit mounts could measure from cylinder head exhaust port to STOCK steering shaft dimension, then it would be known how much space is available for block hugger headers. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks again.
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Those are s&s headers. They work with jtr, but hang pretty low.
Gentlemen:
Thanks to all of you for your responses. The full length headers are REALLY expensive and just do not know if they will fit the 1971 Datsun 240Z with JTR engine mounts. Will have to call the supplier to find out the fitment of these headers and man are they expensive! I am planning to have the 240Z low to the ground wherein very little air gets underneath the car for good downforce.
. I couldn't stand replaceing that thing they call a distributor every summer due to the smallest amount of water getting even near it. I was bored with the power and maintance of keeping it running. I wanted more power and I wasn't about to spend another dime on that set up. Not only that I enjoy doing stuff like this. Its been way to long since I did something like this to my car and it was much needed! 
Swapping out the LT1/T56 for an LS1/T56 + turbo!
in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Posted
Oops, that should read 100,000+ miles. The only advantage the LSx has on the Gen I and II blocks is that FACTORY aluminum blocks are available in the used aftermarket. The cylinder head, camshaft and induction system are the REAL keys to making HP and TQ.