WizardBlack

Review my post above about ringlands. That is why there is so much variation. They become extremely sensitive to detonation; just like rotaries. If you are careful, you can get a lot out of them. If not, they go quicker. I think a lot of ppl are saying 500 is a pretty common denominator to which most tuners/drivers can get without having to worry. It sounds like you can stretch it another 100~150 if you have a good tune or blow it out of the water with comparatively high octane for what you are doing. Regarding the enjuku SR20; how long did it last? Or is it still running? I thought rods and/or rod bolts went sooner than that.

If you can get a single disk that will hold the power and still provide a sprung hub, go for it. If it's a puck clutch, it won't last as long; especially the fewer pucks there are. If it's still a full face disk; that's the way to go. If you can only get a solid hub design, it's up to you. They can be hard to control. It depends on how good you are with the clutch and what you intend to use the car for. Multidisk clutches will allow more slip for the same disk diameter. This lets it hold more torque because human beings usually reduce what torque the clutch will hold with their shifting and slipping. I have driven multidisk cars before. They can have a stock or even lighter pedal feel and still hold a lot of power. That being the case, you really have to check the disk diameter, disk thickness and disk composition to determine how long they will last. They aren't as easy to determine how long they last without a lot of experience with them and checking the physical nature of the clutch. I had an HKS twin-plate. It was nice, but a lighter flywheel and tough single disk works just as well IMHO. Not worth the money unless the car can only accept a fairly small diamter clutch (which I don't think is the case here) or you are building a no-budget 'race' car or need every last ounce of power holding. 600 shouldn't be that hard for a sprung hub on an RB motor.

DSM's are 440 and very abundant. I went with EVO injectors since there are a lot floating around recently with the EVO mod craze. They are 560's and have an up-to-date spray pattern, etc. Oh, and ply that search function. Check the stickies. There are a lot of threads. Search for Holset.

Bah, I am hoping to eliminate everything off of the steering column. Eventually I am looking at replacing the column with an aftermarket one that is both lighter and perhaps a bit adjustable. You see, I have issues with fitment in this little guy. I am 6'1". While many have no issues, I have an 8-point cage in the car. I have an aluminum drag seat installed as far back and low as possible and I still have issues between hitting my knees on the steering column and leaning my head over to the left and grazing the cage. I know THAT is not a good thing, but I am doing the other things that I know I want to install first that might help before I cut out the cage to redo it with a cage that sits closer to the perimeter. I want to end up with a custom aluminum sheet metal dash, aftermarket gauges and toggles. It's lighter and I don't have to worry about OE switchery/trickery and whatnot. I think the headlights are actually pretty strong now for what they are so I don't suspect the switching. I just am going a different way with the car. I will let someone else use the switching that wants a more OE look. I will probably do the HID thing once I get there. For now, suspension brakes and electrical is my focus to get ready for megasquirt and turbo.

OK. I don't know if this has a ZX dizzy or not. I will look into a few things and dig up some comparo pics. I am hoping that the BCDD can be deleted and that that will require a blockoff plate where it bolts to the TB. Maybe there are some issues with that. The air temp related idle circuit could be stuck too, I suppose.

I have been looking at eliminating my BCDD and running a vac line from the intake manifold to the dizzy but it won't idle down. It runs about 1400+ rpm at idle and the idle screw on the throttle body is fully closed. As soon as I route that vac line through the BCDD it drops down. Any ideas? I capped both vac ports on the BCDD when I bypassed it. Am I missing something? I would expect it to not work right. Additionally, I have the valve cover and crankcase vents open to air with K&N filters and plugged the respective ports on the intake pipe and intake manifold. It now seems to let the revs hang really bad when driving between shifts. I have used brake parts cleaner on different areas and it seems to have no leaks I could detect.

Bah if your head flows enough to support it, that should be pretty much a foregone conclusion. I have heard it's the ringlands that break. It's pretty common on modern turbo engines that have to meet emissions guidelines. The depth to the first ring is shallow to keep that dead space between the piston and the cylinder wall as small as possible. A lot of dirty air resides down there and makes it tough to pass emissions. A lot of times it's minor detonation that breaks it but sometimes if it's tuned perfect for it's entire running time, it'll support a bit more power until the sheer power itself breaks the ring lands. They start to crumble apart. I have tuned an STi to that level. When pulling the still run-able engine apart, the piston ringlands fell apart when it pulled out of the bore.

Given Nissan and other Jap Turbo Engine makers other engines, it seems to be rod bolts and then the rods themselves about 100 hp later. But yeah, no one seems to know. I will try to look deeper in skylinesaustralia and whatnot.

Only thing I have heard is buying them for the head to put onto an RB25DET since it supposedly flows like an RB26DETT head. Never heard mention of the shortblock being boosted.

Update. I have installed a car audio fuse distribution block to replace the fusible links and bought 2gauge and 4 gauge wire to replace the big wires for starter, alternator and battery negative, etc. The car is running good again. Next step is to replace the headlight wiring and then follow up with a new chassis fusebox (under the dash). For the headlights, I am going to pull direct from the battery and relay/fuse it with a toggle switch to control it. Not sure but I think I'll need a 3-way switch to deal with LO/HI beam situation...

Yeah but it'll leave a slightly colored buildup on the plugs themselves. Flaky white powder could just be oxidation on the aluminum from the intake manifold flaking off after sitting on the shelf for so long. Or it could be aluminum dust from a compressor wheel eating into the housing.

Whoah now that is kinda a thread jack.

I heard the 6 speed is as weak as the 5 speed for the SR20's. No hard facts of course. 240zwannabe: That is absolutely not a threadjack. This is exactly what I was hoping to bring to the front. A good discussion of hard facts so we can determine when everything will need replaced. So far: Turbo: 10 psi Pistons: 500 whp Head Studs: 500 whp Rods: Crank: Block: Mains: What's the highest powered stock bottom end car (other than pistons if those are replaced)?

Judging by some of the other pics I have seen (like in this thread), those rota website images don't do justice to the colors. Compare the gold, for instance. Mark

Why would you get an RB25 and then use an RB20 trans? Piecing it together? I have the feeling that some shady sellers put an RB20 trans with the RB25 for unsuspecting buyers so they can sell the trans for more money or put it with an RB26. I take it there are small ways to tell the difference between the two if you look carefully? I saw the the RB20 trans has strengthening ridges all around the bell housing all the way up to the mating surface whereas the RB25 has like three rows farther back and then some more up on the bell but not all the way around. On a side note, it seems like the RB25 has a similar powerband to the SR20 with similar mods; just about 20% higher everywhere. Very interesting.

Yeah, I am seeing that. I am surprised. I heard a little differently but I guess most of that is versus the monstrous RB26. It would put about any motor in a poor light, I guess. What do you guys spin to reliably? Summation: Stock turbo to 10 psi Pistons to 500 Headstuds to 500 rods to ??? Do you guys even do ARP rod bolts? Water pump or oil pump? I heard N1 pumps are actually slower (at the same rpm) to account for the extreme rpms of N1 applications. Or at least the water pump is.

Bah, I have done full wire-in standalones and whatnot before. I fear no wiring. I more fear factory wiring catching on fire or failing somehow. Regarding fusible links, yeah they tend to get sensitive to wiggling when they are getting long in the tooth. Or so mine do, anyways.

So if you upgrade pistons and keep your ignition in line (or replace), you basically have a stout enough longblock for anything it can do on pump gas? Even with cams and ported head, big turbo, etc.? What would break next and when? Rods?

Hmm, I would expect them to be more like 18 pounds.

EDIT: Let me rephrase for clarity (it's been a couple of long days.. heh). If you continually bolt on things to make more power (turbo is required pretty early, so I hear. Beyond 10 psi IIRC?). When (horsepower-wise) do you start to break things or at least get into that zone when ppl in the know start to get real nervous? If you fix the first thing, what is next, etc.? This'd be a good sticky subject for ppl modding the RB so they know what to expect.

Car looks great. On the subject of the boost controller, you may end up with boost spike due to the time delay of the air making the round trip through the boost controller. I have seen worse, though, so don't sweat it unless you notice a problem.

Get brass fittings at your home improvement store. Female flare to hosebarb.

I have tuned a lot of cars with the S-AFC II but not an L28ET. Every car is different regardless. I didn't know the S30's came with a linear throttle position sensor to even get a reading. I thought it was a three-state system only.

Yep. In regards to the shipping; I see a lot of things sold like that to sneak in more money for the seller. It'll catch some ppl that aren't paying attention.

Actually you have a different spoiler if you look closely. I have one of your type sitting around and it has studs and recessed holes to mount. The OP's doesn't. My guess is it was one of those spoilers that was made for another car or someone hillbillied it in.