WizardBlack

Air aught to do it. If 120 psi won't push them open I doubt a bit of brake cleaner will.

Oh, I see. Assuming the roll over valve/vent is working properly there should not be a case where the cell expands and pops the check valve open except in fault conditions. I'd look at routing it anyways, though.

LOL, there ya go. That's definitely lighter than silicon piping. To be honest, I've seen stainless, mild steel, aluminum, silicon; it all depends on what you have at hand and what you're doing.

Why would you WANT to transfer heat from the engine bay into your compressed air? If you want the absolute best, it's Silicone and that's got the best insulation value of commonly used materials for intercooler piping.

Yeah, rules are a tad different for turbo, but very useful information none the less. Not to mention an excellent comparo of sound pressure levels.

I hardly think that the surge tank would ever not be full once it's been filled. With an open discharge fuel pump feeding it, it should keep up with whatever 'bigger' pump it is feeding unless you use an ancient 80 lph feeder pump to feed the surge tank and a monster Weldon afterwards. Even then, the 'bigger' return fuel is fed back into the surge tank, so all the feeder must do is keep up with actual fuel usage in a near 'open discharge' environment.

That is basically an open line. It needs to be routed to somewhere outside the car and away from exhaust, other hot things, sparks, etc. It only shuts off when the car rolls upside down.

And... ? What happened?

Any machine shop can make one for you. You just need thicker walled aluminum tubing at about 4~6" diam. and however long (tall) you want it. Get a few aluminum weld-on AN bungs and you are in business. Have them weld threaded bosses on the bottom to mount it with screw-in rubber standoffs and you are good to go. BTW, the OP's catch can looks great! Mark

LOL yeah. You aren't kidding. I am doing just that, actually. Eliminating the fusible links, eliminating superfluous wiring (ditched A/C, P/S, wipers, heater, etc. etc.), upgrading the headlights, etc. Once I get my Megasquirt/EDIS-6 all set up I will ditch the OE harness for the most part as well.

It'd be nice to see pics/info/pricing of some of the cool stuff you guys make on your website.

That is way too much work and way too small of problems to sell it. I used to own a speed shop and see the different 'personalities' of car enthusiasts. Do NOT give in to that urge. Hold on to it, chain it up, have your buddies hide it, etc. but don't give it up. You could do much worse than that car. Just replace the floorpans, drop in a nasty clutch and nastier flywheel and keep going. Consider some BC cams as the next thing. Even on a stock turbo they make a blatant improvement in power.

Whoah, wait a sec there; The Z32 N/A and Z32 Turbo 5 Speeds are the same?

Ah, there we go! Thanks guys; sorry for the jack but I guess I will end up participating in the OT soon enough now.

Thank you. I haven't had much luck searching for 240zmaster, "240z master", etc.

There are plenty of stock L28ET cast exhaust manifolds on ebay. $50 shipped is pretty easy to obtain. Get a holset instead of a stock turbo and replace the wastegate actuator with a 7 or 10 pound actuator. SR20 guys have 7 pound actuators that should work. Splurge on a good intercooler and get a megasquirt. Buy an o-ring fuel rail and grab a set of DSM or EVO injectors. Evo injectors are usually $100 for four and they have a good mist pattern and are 560cc's.

FYI my fusible links LOOK fine but with the car running, I can slightly wiggle the links and the car shuts off. Time to do a rewire.

Why not make your own. The originals are all toast and ready to combust anyways. Check out the fusible link rewire and the headlight rewire. That is the majority of the passenger side harness (along with turns signals and parking lights).

Sorry to be unclear. It rubbed raw against the power wires and my reasoning that only 16" of the ground wire was burned was because the other end of the burned section had rubbed raw on the chassis. That was the closest ground point. I also got it started. It will shut off if I wiggle the fusible links and then I can start it again if I let go of them. They also get almost too hot to touch. New parts are on the way so I am going through it all now to tear stuff out and redo it as they FAQ's show you on here and atlanticz.ca. Thanks again! Mark

If I may, where in the world can you get the bigger RS Watanabe wheels (or Panasports for that matter)? Looking for 16x9/9.5.

Updates?

Considering he has an RB setup he is working on, I rather took it that he was sharing some smugness with you over us poor guys who don't have those kinds of wicked power on tap.

Wow that is heavy traffic. Then again, back in the days when I followed some street racing, we had a 4 lane outerbelt that we would run four wide and start from a dead stop...

I peeled the ground back all the way to the firewall. It also branches off and bolts to the block with a ring terminal (just on the side, not to a sensor or anything) and also to a toothed ring terminal bolted to the firewall. I followed it all the way through the firewall and back to the ignitor module (or whatever you call it) and it plugs into the end; IIRC it was labelled as a ground. Anyways, I have a theory. The grouning wire (assuming it is indeed that, of course), was evidently rubbing against the frame and may have been grounding to the frame right at that point. I think it also rubbed against all the 8 gauge power wires running to and from the fusible links. I think it arc'd across and ground out to the chassis and the engine, etc. That would explain why only the certain section of the ground wire was cooked and seared, etc. The 10" leading up to the alternator and the engine ground are fine. It's only the ~2 feet running from (just in front of) the firewall to where it leaves the channel it is resting on on the frame rail and shoots across to the block and alternator. That is the same area where it is rubbing on the frame and rubbing against all those power wires. There are (50 + 50 + 50 + 80 = ) 230 amps running through those wires. I went to atlanticz.ca and looked through their fusible link stuff and bought some fuse distribution blocks on ebay to redo most of that section. We shall see how it goes. I will update when I have it done.

Indeed, but how is the question. Can the voltage reg inside the alternator do that? Some sort of failure or short that fries the ground wire? If the starter ground wire was somehow not connecting well would it run through the alternator ground and fry it?