WizardBlack

I was referring to the tarmac youtube video. Is it that that car is actually a dirt rally Z and that's why the suspension was so soft while it was going around corners on the tarmac? It was essentially config'd for dirt? I've heard other ppl say that the front inside tire lifts on road race Z's. It just seems strange to me; or are you really on the throttle that hard in corners with this chassis? (this could be getting a bit off topic; I can retract and start a thread...) Mark

Uh yeah, Tial is American. That means they cost good money because good money was put into them to develop a reliable product up to the demands of endurance racing. Additionally, they put the effort into high quality production with extremely few flaws or failures in the field. What do you get from Chinese products? They get someone to send them a real Tial and they take it apart and do a sloppy knockoff with cheap casting techniques. Then they package them and sell them. They can get away with it because China doesn't respect the patent rights of other countries. It happens for hundreds to thousands of aftermarket performance parts. They succeed because most ppl just want somethin cheap and don't care if the manufacturer is unethical and stealing from your neighbour and producing it on the other side of the world. Most higher end parts like diffs, fuel pumps, valvetrain parts and turbos fail pretty quickly or simply don't fit in the first place. It's hit or miss because most Chinese manufacturers cannot reliably produce to the tolerance that those specific parts require. Not to mention they use dirty alloys, cheap recycled pot metal or throw whatever else in it that they can.

I have one of the HE351's. It's 4".

On my car ('77 280Z), I simply spun the SR20 (240SX) throttle around 180 degrees and it fit without a spacer. I then used the lokar throttle cable (as pictured above) to completely eliminate the shaft linkage stuff. No spacer needed. The TPS is then located on the passenger side where the linkage used to be. Obviously, I ported the mouth of the intake manifold to match, too.

OK, I watched the tarmac rally Z and just like other Z videos, I noticed that the car actually wobbles the weight fore and aft and lifts the inside front wheel when cornering hard. My only personal road race experience is with AWD cars which act a little different. To me, the wobbling looks like suspension that is underdamped or simply too softly damped AND sprung, etc. That certainly can't be optimal to see it 'pendulum' like that...

Well, as they comment on some threads, the 240SX caliper setup works with the S12+8 fronts, but some complain of not getting enough rear bias back if they have the S12W (vented) fronts. I went with S12+8/240SX setup. Modern Motorsports' caliper brackets are nice, but I bought the rest of the stuff from Autozone myself. Beware that Modern Motorsports can take a while (at times) to respond to emails. I had several weeks of no response but I got my stuff in the end and everything looked great. I hear it happens with him from time to time as it isn't his primary job and he travels a lot for the other one.

I am making a full custom exhaust. If you need the v-banded elbow, I can send ya one for $25. I used a 4" v-band flange to a 4"->3" taper, and then full 3" stainless exhaust from there with a Borla XR-1 muffler. I'd say that you will need about $200 in mandrels and $50 in straight pipe along with a $50 flex (if you want that, I definitely recommend it) and ~$20 for stainless hanger roundrod. The only other cost is whatever muffler (if you opt for one) to finish it off and welding costif you can't do it yourself. Mild steel will probably cut about 35% off the cost at least.

It looks great! I wish I had the ability to do that, too!

BTW, I would source the parts aside from the brackets yourself. The rotors and pads are easy enough to buy from your local Autozone, etc. Calipers are easy to find at a JY and the rebuild kit is ~$25 from Autozone.

I think some ppl need to realize that even the properly refreshed stock brakes with stainless lines can yield you a full lockup pretty easily. Even aside from the whole balance issue is the fact that you can simply overkill your brakes unless you need an extreme amount of thermal endurance and can properly manage your footwork to avoid locking your tires all the time. That, or you plan to drastically increase weight and moderately increase tire dimensions from the original stuff.

I would think that uneven flow with an aftermarket intake manifold is a sign of either not enough surge tank or improperly designed surge tank. I know very few manifolds actually have the investment of modelling the fluid flow in the design procedure, but it seems strange to go back and change trumpet sizes to even it out.

First and foremost, you have to buy/beg/borrow/steal a wideband. If you don't have one, stop reading now and go get one. I highly recommend you buy one to keep in the car at all times versus borrowing to get it tuned and watching it for a while. I refer you to the megamanual for some tuning advice. They have a pretty decent 'first start' procedure to get you up and running. Usually you start the car and get it warmed up however you can; making rough fuel changes to keep it from running too rich or lean. Obviously 14.64 is stoich. Then you get idle to stoich (or slightly richer if it won't idle well) and stabilize the idle air. You want to get it as close you can to stoich and then bump idle rpm a tad and then enrich it as a last resort to get it stable. Next you can rough out the fuel map with some reving in neutral and then driving around the block. After you get a decent fuel map you wait for it to get stone cold again and rough out the cold start and coolant enrichment setting. Then you go for part and full throttle, etc. Plenty of timing maps can be had on the threads where they post maps. It may not be for your specific ECU (ie., MS2, etc.) but the timing is still the same for similar rpm/boost/cam/compression/octane, etc. A car warming up with usually start out at about 12.5~13:1 when it first starts and it tapers to stoich by the time it hits 10~20 degrees F below warm idle. I am not sure what you mean by you "would like to know where to set the kpa at and what the vac"... Are you referring to load points? If so, usually 3 is usually enough in vac and the rest in boost. The lowest vac point should be a tad below your idle vac or lowest cruise vac; whichever is lower. Space the rest out and then set one at 0 kpa (relative). Typically you never let a turbo engine get much below stoich air/fuel in vacuum. At zero relative pressure it starts to taper richer and many ppl also taper it at very high rpm in vacuum. The conversion for psi to kpa and other numbers can be found on www.convert-me.com. Coil dwell is specific to the coils/coil you are using. Use wikipedia if you aren't sure what dwell is. There are plenty of good articles on here, as well, to help you find the right settings for your ignition. I hope I have correctly interpreted some of your questions and given you some helpful advice.

You need to read the megamanual and peruse the maps posted in the sticky. Tuning is something that takes a lot of time, patience and effort. I think few will answer because everyone's setup is so different. You'd be lucky to get a map that will make your car start. Trying to press it further without a wideband, lots of knowledge and tuning effort is bound to foul the engine and wash cylinders or blow it quite spectacularly.

I would definitely replace it. I would also NOT leave 12V battery power hooked up to the injectors. Rewire it with fresh wire, relay it and fuse it. 12V Ignition is supposed to be hooked up to the injectors, but it should have fresh wire, fuse and relay. The factory fusible links are a fuse of sorts but they are very questionable condition anymore. My 12v power wiring had rubbed through to the chassis and also rubbed through to the ground wiring. It was seeping LOTS of current straight to ground and ready to start an electrical fire. I would recommend doing the fusible link rewire at the minimum.

Totally awesome. Have you had a chance to weigh it as it stands right now?

agreed. I have run across Unichips before. I will say that I'm not surprised you got one for free.

LOL I was just abstaining because I had a feeling where this was going, but in the interest of a person that is actually INTERESTED in this thread based on the title, the oil pan of a Subaru is very small and cannot be reduced in height without significant issues. Not to mention the fact that everyone is forgetting; you need more height for the manifold. The exhaust ports of the heads point DOWN and therefore reducing the height of the oilpan gives you nothing in terms of clearance unless you have a really abnormal manifold on it as well. Part of the oilpan restriction is the fact that the Subaru engines are actually two halves of a block that encase around the crank like symmetric halves of a die cut foam packing. They don't have main caps. In other words, the bottom of the motor isn't the plane that the centerline of the crank coincides with like the SBC, SBF, etc. The rest of the length of a Subaru is taken by the pan. If you imagine the block like this: [O] you get the idea. Hope that helps. Suffice to say, I have a Subaru and an S30 sitting side by side. I have had Scoobies apart to many levels. I've road raced them. I've tuned >600 whp EJ257's, etc. and my S30 bay is practically empty to take measurements. I have seen plenty of very insightful and ingenious modifications made to the S30 chassis by intrepid hybrid-ers, but I think the EJ series motors won't fit without a tube conversion or some extremely twisted (and weak) modifications to make the rails go up about 15" from where they are now or 6" wider at a minimum (and no provision to access the plugs). But hey, if someone wants to try it, go for it. I'd be glad to offer any other insight or measurements you might like. I actually had the thought of doing a Subaru but felt it was pretty daunting. I am gonna stick with the relatively well known VH45DE or 1UZFE swap.

That's strange. Now it works. LOL. Thanks for checking on it though.

No, no. That isn't what I mean. I can fab whatever I need. I just meant from a physical size perspective if you can fit a GT30 on each side of the engine, for example. Without cutting the car up significantly. I really wanted to put them on the sides of the engine; not down and back or sitting in front, etc.

It still doesn't clear the width issue. It won't clear anywhere except perhaps between the headlights.

Hmm, lots of activity. I'd like to pass on a few statements to regard some posts: Making your framerails pass over the engine would put them up to the tops of the strut towers; extremely "not feasible" and flimsy. The engine's advantage (short height) etc. does indeed give it a very low CG, but if you had to shove the thing way forward to put an AWD trans onto the back of it you'd have a timing cover in front of the factory radiator placement. Also not very useful. Your CG would be low but forward. The engines aren't that expensive. Just because ppl sell them used on the forums for a lot does NOT mean that an enterprising fellow couldn't buy one brand new from the dealer for less if they were wise enough to simply check. Subies are cool and all but they aren't the greatest for massive power output. I would say, however, that it'd be ridiculous to think that the 2.0 or 2.2 engine would be a 'better' choice from engine output and reliability points of view. The 2.5L USDM STi belts out so much so easy now it's ridiculous. Just because Subaru's have a very strange mod path (and if you don't follow it you can blow the engine up) and have one of the world's dumbest (and most dangerous) tunes from the factory doesn't mean they aren't tough if you know what you're doing. All of this is, of course, my two cents.

Nice! Thank you! I saw in their imports section that they may have already done it. It says "Nissan V8 to V6 5 speed" and it sure looks right. Now I just wonder if anyone has found enough room to mount twin turbos easily to this rascal. I have seen the blue one in Japan, but wanted some more insight from anyone who has shoehorned it.

I've done standalones on Subies and I agree. You'd be better off just rewiring, but it isn't hideous if you've done one before. I have spoken to Subaru Corporate ppl before. You are right; they are really arrogant. Bah, all you need is head studs that aren't past peak yield by the time you finish installing them according to their specs. ARP studs fixes that. The only other issue is getting a little bit coarser finish on the head surface if it's boosted. I used to own a speed shop that specialized in EVO/STi, etc. My buddy still runs a shop (he is a Subie Master Tech as well) and he found the finish helped a lot to get Subaru's up to 40 psi of boost without popping every time. Before they were running into a brick wall at about 35. The STi timing cover is 31" wide. The engine itself is basically 30" wide. The S30 chassis frame rails have 25" clearance.

Yes, I know. Mazworx, right? What's up with their site? It comes up 'cannot find' for me. Are they temporarily down or is their another company that can do it? Thanks, Mark

I can't get the link anymore but the new AVCS 2.5L STi engine is the way to go. Exhaust and a tune yields 330~350 awhp; especially on the later (more recent) ones. I do, however, have to agree that it's probably too wide. I own an S30 and an 06 STi.