WizardBlack

I believe several ppl mentioned in the brake stickies that it's been done but not as common. I was thinking the same thing you did.

Yes, indeed. Many thanks to everyone and their efforts to make so many useful (and cheap) options available rather than clicking "buy it now" for an overpriced kit. Knowledge is power (and in this case, money savings).

Very cool.... price?

search for "reaction disk" as well

He's got fuel hard lines all around his wastegate for his direct port wet kit.

I think it is all about smooth airflow. The factory manifold is basically a cylinder with one end open to bolt the throttle up to. If you go to a bigger plenum, you'd want a bigger throttle that follows the sizing of the plenum. This would in effect allow for, say, 2.5" piping up to a 3" throttle and into a 3.5" plenum (as a more extreme case). In that case, the throttle performs the improtant job of attempting to keep airflow smooth. If, however, you use a surge tank that has a tear drop shape with a taper out from from the throttle mounting plate (like the second version of the manifold in the linked thread), the surge tank is performing the taper for you and the throttle needs be no larger than the piping itself. In that case, the piping and throttle should all be appropriately sized for the engine. Regarding the above poster who mentioned rally cars. Yes, the restrictor does a good job of keeping the power (flow) down but it doesn't stop them from making monster torque, of course. As has been shown time and again, of course, rules of thumb are merely that. Nothing is going to absolutely stop making more power than a part says it should given the right circumstances. What I usually do for a turbo car is follow the turbo outlet for IC piping size and then make sure the throttle is a slight step larger (for 'dump' style intake manifolds) or close to the plenum size if it has the tear drop shop. I think keeping it smooth is JUST as important as pipe diameter.

Go to RC Engineering for standard top feed injectors. Don't pay out the wazoo for injectors just because they were made in Japan. It's senseless IMHO. www.rceng.com Lots of other good sources in USA as well.

I have a 77 and I don't think my plate reads 170. I thought I heard it was related to how they measured it that caused the differences.

Sounds like the choke is stuck on, thus the light and the fact that the cable wants to rest in the choke position. Bust out the PB Blaster or WD40 and get all your linkages nice and free moving.

I used to run a speed shop along side of another industrial business I owned in the same building for years and years. After dynotuning a 13B that had been bridge ported (and used a T78 IIRC), I saw white dust on everything. It took me a while to realize that that thing had been so dang loud it knocked the dust off of the ceiling when years of other cars never had. LOL

300 ft/sec = 18000 ft/min With a cross sectional area of pi*2" for two inch piping, that's 6.28 in^2 or .04361 ft^2. So, for your estimated average air velocity, you would have a flow rate of 785 cfm. I think the piping velocity is probably more about half of that; or 150 feet/sec. Aside from which, I don't care what Corky Bell or anyone else says about what pipe diameter is efficient (even though he puts out a pretty good book; I have read it). Does he define efficient? Will 2" work for 785 cfm engine, sure. Would I run 2" IC piping on an engine flowing that kinda air? Hellz no. BTW, the extra length is actually pretty irrelevant as far as volume is concerned. Just keep the bends minimal and the heat low. Looks good, BTW.

Wow the paint is melting and you haven't even really opened it up yet?!? Whew. Be careful. Lots of fuel lines and whatnot running around everywhere.

You guys need to catch up with technology! LOL Search for a Soda Blast professional in your area. They will trailer a media blaster with all required equipment to your location and soda blast your car in about 3~4 hours. They use sodium bicarbonate so it's totally safe. The best part is that the soda will strip paint but leave rubber and glass alone. You will want to remove your turn signals and aluminum trim, though. It's still a massive savings of time.

Are you talking about the little ring pressed into the flywheel itself? The bushing for the very tip of the trans input shaft?

True words. It's all in what you want. You have to know what it's going to behave like and what you want it to do precisely at the very beginning and then move from there. I am afraid you need to build some knowledge first. Try some of the turbo forums and books (Corky Bell for one) to get rolling.

My opinion? Beautiful stuff and reasonably priced. I've built enough "Street" cars to know what stainless systems with mandrel bends cost. Sure, you don't need it for a garaged and never seen rain kinda car that only runs on the street once in a while, but race cars or year round cars in some climates require a bit more.

That may be, but I really don't know how thicker steel in the chassis can account for, what is it?, 400 pounds or so? I am sure everyone has preferences and wants to defend the choice they themselves made. I'd just like to see what a race prepped 240 versus a race prepped 280 weighs where all the extraneous stuff has been changed for the sake of curiosity.

Hmm, I noticed that there are two stages of resistance on the brake pedal. I scanned through every post in that thread and the one they link to from there and I didn't really see that anyone actually derived a solution to the problem. They saw the RD fell out and put it back in and even super glued it. One fellow adjusted his rod back and forth and could still never fix it. What did you end up doing and did you get actually quick responding and 'stiff' brakes like you should with stainless brake lines?

Wow that pic of the motor really makes me want to look into a V8 again... hmm. IMHO, get the turbo toward the front to minimize the cold side piping; especially for autoX. Even though that monster in a little S30 isn't going to require much boost to make the rear end lively.

I've used -8 feed and -6 return on a lot of turbo cars running north of 600 whp. For the aussie, this same system aught to be in use down there as well. I wouldn't trust the stock feed line for much beyond 400 crank hp but that's me. In the end, I'd end up removing the stock return line and using the stock feed as the return and running a new -8 to feed the rail. You never know about fuel pressure unless you have it measured right before the return line. I still wouldn't trust it. Fuel is life on a turbo car. Also, Earls is a little funky. Don't try to mix and match Earls with Aeroquip, Russel, Jeg's, etc. It doesn't work. The actual flare fitting section is fine, but the ends wherein they screw over the braided line is slightly different in size.

Sounds like you should search the plentiful SBC forums for that one. FYI, you don't want to try to run sequential. That's just an overly complicated attempt made by some OEM's to get a bit more response out of it. To be honest, you need to read some about how turbos work (try Corky Bell's book Maximum Boost). I would say go for a single turbo setup for fewer parts to buy. Twin turbo doesn't net you faster spool unless the turbos are sized different than the single that mimics them. The only significant benefit is shorter hotside piping and it is usually considered to look prettier. I personally like twin turbo for V motors and a single for inlines. YMMV. Make sure you built the bottom end stout and don't worry about stretching the stroke or raising compression. Just get a nice stout crank/piston/rod setup and aim for 8.5:1 compression; perhaps 9:1. Try to maintain the rpm capability of the stock stroke.

Erm, I was pretty sure that the HX35 has only as slight increase in power capacity over an HY35... Like, maybe 30 hp. They both went on the same truck the same year; just a different transmission.

That'd increase the surge threshold; ie., worse by a slight bit, no? BTW, I have what I think is the exact same turbo, albeit from a 2005 and only 1k miles on it.

Mine was doing something similar. It ended up being the AFM. Check the impedances on the pins as the atlanticz site says to for starters.

Facts mixed with opinions. 409 is little better than aluminized. Aluminized starts rusting pretty good within a year. I only use 304 on turbo cars and sometimes aluminized on N/A. YMMV; especially you lucky punks in the dry temperate areas. Try driving a car is zero degrees with 6" snow and then run it up to feasibly 1000 degrees or more and see how well the mild steel likes turbo life. Heh.