WizardBlack

Wait a second. What centers do you need to get? Don't these pop into the pumpkin? Do you have to buy Q45 differential flanges (or center sections or whatever)? Custom? I can't find the 'kit' on their site and they have no phone number; nor do they seem to respond to my inquiries.

OK, well I can hardly see how the 240SX R200 + Q45 axles will be more expensive than Z31 axles + companion flanges + Quaife. That's $200 + $500 plus fabwork versus $150 + $400 + $2000. Quaifes are cool and all but dang... I could do one heck of a custom clutch LSD plus many rebuilds for that much. I always liked the idea of viscous anyways for the shock resistance.

Axles setting me back $1000? $250 a piece? You can get some for much cheaper than that? Are junkyard or Autozone or ebay shafts all considered a no no? A 240SX diff is cheap. I can fab the mount. That leaves the companion flanges which I have to buy even if I just use Z31T axles. Is this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Axle-Shaft-INFINITI-Q45-90-94-R-Right_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33728QQihZ019QQitemZ8043384352QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V not a good idea? Or is it that the custom shafts are ridiculously expensive? MM doesn't list them and you can't even call the ppl...

OK, thanks. I have read that thread several times. I guess I kept missing it, but I think it is implying that the 4xQ45 inners plus new axles solution is for all the shortnose R200's and R230's.

How much more do you think it weighs? Also, what do you think your parts costs are up to with a Q45 conversion?

I will have to check the torque spec but these are all brand new grade 8 fine thread SAE hardware. I put 'em on at "hard as I can with hand tools" tight. I dunno; perhaps they are slightly too small for the diameter of the hole and that's where the slop comes from. How tight are the stock bolts? They have about your typical hole slop; not so tight that you skim any crud off the threads but not like I was feeling I shoulda bought a larger diameter bolt, etc. Maybe there was a 'tweener metric size I should have bought. My stock hardware was rust welded and had to be cut off with a cutoff wheel. I have driven the car in town about 3~5 miles since I installed them and they are already clunking but it doesn't feel like it did when the bolts were coming LOOSE. Just a thud/clunk when doing a very tight and slow turn.

OK, I have searched and didn't come up with the answer. I am still learning as I read every thread I can get my hands on about shortnose R200 swaps, but perhaps my understanding is lacking such that I didn't pick up the answer from the discussion. Will Z31 turbo halfshafts (and perhaps the companion flanges from Modern Motorsports) fit into a shortnose R200? I want to do either a viscous 240SX R200 swap or that from a Q45 (which seems bigger and doesn't seem like the halfshafts would work). I am leaning towards the 240SX since they seem to be easy to get. I don't fear fabricating a front mount for the diff so that portion looks to be surmountable, but the whole halfshaft length issues and whatnot leaves me a bit concerned. Or, am I all wet and just getting a Z31 VLSD pumpkin the way to go? My biggest concern is that the width is incorrect. What can I mix-n-match? (Sorry if I missed it in my searches)

LOL that is the most satisfying way to "diagnose" a problem sometimes...

I am not sure which size is what (making mental note to measure them), but I am a bit surprised you trail brake to get it to come around. I'd have thought you would want to be on the throttle a bit to do it with power rather than weight distribution, but . I have never tracked an S30 before. Actually I've only tracked AWD turbo cars so that shows you what I know, I guess. Thanks for the info. On a side note, the welded diff seems to make it impossible to keep the bolts on stock halfshafts tight. All that extra torsion seen so much seems to loosen them. Anyone find a decent way to get an impact on them? Hand tight doesn't cut it with one wrench not even on the bolt head really really good. Even with aircraft nuts, lock washers and a boatload of red locktite.

I have a welded R200 in my 280Z. It came that way. Needless to say, much of my mod money is going towards finding something else if that tells you anything. It drives like crap. Steering effort is quite high and it squeals and hops going around corners, etc. I have tire tracks off the road leading up to the start of my driveway. DON'T do this unless you have a DRAG car. The last owner thought it'd be 'neat' for autocross, but between that and the Suspension Techniques big sway bars front and rear it pushes like a pig when off the throttle and pushes like a pig when on the throttle. Not to mention that the original halfshafts have the nut and bolt setup instead of bolt and flange so it won't stay locked tight with all the torsion it must deal with due to the welded differential. I have gr. 8 bolts and aircraft nuts plus lock washers plus tons of red locktite and I still can't get it to stop thunking and popping (halfshaft slop). I am looking for a VLSD. Anyone wanna trade?

OK, thank you. Good to know.

Well seriously; do they actually dyno test the car (rolling road)? If so, a hidden electronic boost controller can save you all the trouble in the world. If you are trying to do it 'legitimately', then that's a different story, but EBC with a switched fuel and timing map on a standalone makes it easy to drop it down that far. Get a low spring pressure for the wastegate and get really lazy with fuel and especially timing. Lopping power off a car is easy with a standalone. Option 3: Move somewhere that 'Hitler's own' regulations aren't enforced.. Sheesh. J/K.

I have a car that won't be driven in freezing conditions ever, but is driven on the street and perhaps a track someday (gotta get chassis stuff up to snuff). Can this be mixed with straight RO/water and no EG or other items for this condition? It says thus on the summit description but I wanted your guys' opinions on that.

Yeah, EG is to extend the boil temperature, but it sacrifices heat transfer. Straight EG would only be used if you were extremely concerned about it freezing or boiling.

Get it fixed before you drive it. By your comment that you installed a different fuel pump on the car, I would look at that or another problem that could be diagnosed like a fuel pump.

I know this is an old thread, but anyone seeing this and considering doing all of that should consider reinforcing the front swaybar mounts as they can crack under the excessive loads a large swaybar will put on it.

You could probably use an amped up DFCO-like signal to determine when and how to open it. On a side note, during shifts I seriously doubt it's going to have the turbine energy to keep it spinning 'at full boil' unless you are talking about ignition retard (two-step or antilag). About the best you could do would be a tapered in and out bypass such as the solenoid controlled bypass valve would afford. Some BOV's offer a 3-port design that you could use the third port with a simple electric-pneumatic on-off solenoid. This could also actually be implemented just like a standard pwm solenoid for boost control. Many ppl buy one (from an industrial electronics company) to hook up with standalones for boost control. I've seen some threads on aempower.com that are relevant to this.

Wasted spark is for design convenience, fewer parts and emissions. That's about all I can see being a benefit for it. You can't control how much 'power' is sent to one cylinder versus another. The coils are completely blind. I think coil near plug (CNP) or coil on plug (COP) is by far the best. Almost all new sports cars seem to be going to it. Sportbikes which have high specific output and high rpm capability always use them.

It's really a matter of semantics or how you look at it, to be honest. Most people refer to boost as positive pressure (with respect to ambient). In reality, the car will flow more air even at vacuum levels close to zero since the turbo is 'helping it along' compared to normally aspirated. I think you are wondering about this from a timing/tuning standpoint. Generally timing starts to taper down after zero psi (relative) although some engines may like a degree or two less right at zero. Most of the time, once you reach the minimum rpm (~2500rpm or so), the car uses about 40 degrees timing at all vacuum point until you get to the limits at almost full vacuum or right at zero; both where it may use 37~39 degrees. Ultimately, you can search the megasquirt section; there are timing maps posted.

Average airspeed in the pipe; 300 ft/sec. I wasn't correlating 600 cfm to 400 hp when I typed that post for some reason, but it comes out to 300 for 400 hp through 2.5" pipe. However, as I think of it now, wouldn't that be 600 cubic feet of standardized pressure air? If it's compressed it would actually be a lower cfm rating, albeit at boost? I dunno; it's been a long day. heh.

It looks a little different than my 280Z as far as the coolant fittings and whatnot but I think it'll end up the same.

Yes, I did. I figured my problem. The check valve had been installed backwards. I guess when the old (broken) booster was being stupid we were trying to figure what it could possibly be and ended up leavin it in backwards. They work now although they feel like I don't have stainless lines. I probably just have to bleed it again.

It depends on the piping, too, of course. If you have a heavy hose bead they can hold 30 lbs. You have to clean all the oils and grease off of the pipes and couplers as well. I always looked for stainless worm clamps that are the slightly wider kind as those tend to hold significantly more force than the el cheapo ones where the worm housing (only) is stainless.

Not if he has it up to 30 psi on an accurate gauge and he's only hitting 15 psi of boost when driving the car. Usually 10 psi extra is enough for the pressure surge of a spooling turbo. Check your plugs to see if they are rich. Make sure you didn't leave a sensor off or mess up some wiring, etc. Just take a very slow careful look at everything under the hood.

Oops, yeah. Sorry, I use the right foot unless it's auto, then I use the left foot. Hey! If everyone is reading things so close, what's your solution to the problem?