WizardBlack

Another update: I have the new booster on. I used a set of vernier calipers to measure the pin pushing on the MC and adjusted it to the same length as the original. I also did the linkage on the inside to make sure I had no problems. The car still has a very stiff pedal with hardly any movement. Maybe 1" total. However, it still is a very very high effort pedal. Just like it had no booster at all. Help!

Lotsa old skool nasty domestics use them. Some are belt driven and some electric.

I am gonna jump on here and post as well. I have precisely the same problem, so I know how the OP feels. I have new MC, new booster, new pads and rotors up front, new stainless brake lines and speed bleeders all the way around. The brake pedal is nice and hard, but it requires a LOT of pressure to get it to stop. I can stand on them and they will start to lock up the front, so I know it's working semi-closely. I went to my local autozone in desperation to see what they said. One guy said that maybe I still have an air pocket between the MC and the lines (from installing it), but I doubt that since the pedal is hard and doesn't move much at all. They said (and this is where the OP and I MAY have the same problem) that there could be dirt in the lines causing them to do this. I have a hard time believing that, though, since it doesn't pull to one side or anything. Any guru's out there have any ideas? What will the car do with the checkvalve on backwards? You should be able to blow through it from the booster side, no?

If I understand correctly with EDIS and MS2, you can use the coil on plugs or coil NEAR plugs setups but it will still be pairs of wasted spark? I've seen coil near plug and I like that setup, but I know there are only three drivers on the EDIS module. Can the module fire TWO of those coils (per output) without being damaged or sacrificing coil output?

Doh! I should've known that. Sorry about that. I did indeed search to try to find it because I knew it looked familiar to me.

LOL I don't doubt it. Some of the Dorito-heads are the most closed minded, one branded ppl I have ever seen. Of course they have to worship the 13B to change them out so danged much (when they pop). They are the only guys I have ever seen that ALWAYS have a spare motor in the process of being built, ported, etc. I hate to say it, but 13B's are like turbo Hondas without the reliability. On a side note (if ya don't flame ME now for my pokes of fun at the Wankle boys' expense), whatcha doing with the trans?

IF you mean the single wire oil pressure switch like my 77 has, then that must be wrong. I removed mine to install an Autometer oil pressure gauge with no ill effect.

I am no expert on Z31's, but it sounds like the timer to shut off the rear defogger on my S30. They call it something like that in my old Haynes manual. If that's the case, it only has a few wires going into it.

The rod sticking out of your brake booster needs to be adjusted back a little bit to let the MC retract all the way when you are off the brakes. What I have seen explained on here is that it doesn't pull back far enough to allow the fluid to release back into the reservoirs (when necessary) and therefore the fluid starts to heat up and expand and has nowhere to do, so they start to clamp your brakes down harder and harder until you get locked completely. You need to have a little bit of play or slack to ensure it resets fully when you get off the pedal. (I take no credit for this description; gentlemen in another thread threw out this explanation. If you want to check it for sure, search under "reaction disk") Hope that helps ya, Mark

I don't think so. The outlet of most Holsets are v-band. You can get an elbow from the Cummins truck as well; it's about a 60 degree cast iron elbow but it's v-band at both ends as well. I think it tapers down to 4" v-band. Many ppl buy the elbow and weld a stainless reduction onto it to take it down to 3". Take a look at this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=120730 Study the pics in detail. There are several showing the wastegate mounted to the intake manifold and other things.

Rig the stock 280ZX wastegate to fit to the Holset. Be careful on your first run to make sure it's holding right. If the distance from the wastegate actuator to the arm of the flapper is different, it will affect the preload of the spring in the actuator and therefore change your boost pressure. This is what the adjustable actuators do; they are just a threaded rod to change preload on the flapper.

Update: Methinks the master cylinder was shot so I replaced it and carefully bled the new one. Things seemed to be looking better, but still not great. I bled the rears first (put speedbleeders on while I was at it) and it didn't get much firmer. I could pump once or twice on the right front bleeding and then the pedal got much softer and I heard a clunk/pop. Couldn't I.D. the sound so I kept on going. I continued to try to bleed but it was soft. I switched to the other side and it would be hard for one pump of the brake pedal and then soft again until I leave it alone for several minutes. We tinkered with the booster check valve and couldn't get it to work better. Finally, my friend actually plugged the nipple off on the booster with his finger and the brakes are now hard! So we figured the check valve was in wrong. We referenced the haynes manual. It shows that the metal check valve should have the center body showing the flat side toward the engine and the chamfered side towards the booster. We flipped it around and the pedal stayed hard. We finished bleeding and when for a test drive. I have absolutely NO booster effect at all, BUT the brakes are nice and hard now. I dunno. There are two sections of the booster with a check valve between them and one between the rear section and the outside. I think there are some leaks in one of the checkvalves or the diaphragm or both, so I ordered a replacement from Autozone for $115. I can drive it now, but I will develop a He-Man left leg in short order. I guess we'll see if the booster replacement fixes it... On a side note, I priced the upgrade to S12+8 four piston calipers up front and new pads to go with them and it's only about $100 after core refunds! Too bad the 240SX rear conversion is about $300 plus the cost of the Maxima brackets.

So, it was the hardline rattling against the frame? Make sure you get some rubberized clamps if that's the case. BTW, I have had standalones report that much of a rattle (and even less) as knock before. Make sure you go through everything and isolate it or bolt it down, etc. Good luck! I am still assembling my MS2 V3 and gathering parts.

Yes, there is a large fitting screwed into the passenger side rear of the block for the coolant pipe; unscrew that and screw in a brass plug. All of these plugs will be pipe thread that you can buy from any auto parts store or even a hardware store. The second fitting is screwed into the aluminum coolant neck for the lower radiator hosel; unscrew that one and screw in a brass plug there as well. On the upper radiator hose, there is a smaller pipe that runs to a little circulation block on the intake manifold. You can remove that one as well (at the thermostat housing) and plug it, too. I think the sizes are 1/4" and 1/2" pipe thread, but there may be some 3/8", etc. I plugged a bunch of lines (both coolant and air) at the same time. The only thing you end up with is a lower radiator hose to the aluminum neck on the block by the water pump and an upper radiator hose from the thermo housing to the radiator. That housing should have two (IIRC) sensors for the car to operate and one for the coolant gauge on the dash (which I replaced with an Autometer). I hope that's been helpful. Just go buy several 1/4", 1/2", etc. pipe thread (tapered) plugs (ie., NPT) and it'll work fine. Be sure to get LIQUID teflon paste to seal the threads up. Use plenty and wipe off the excess. Read the description on the paste as there seems to be a couple kinds and they will usually list your typical auto fluids as OK when you find the right one. NOTE: some people think it's OK to take the big coolant elbow that's on the back right side of the block and turn it around and plumb it to the equally sized fitting on the lower radiator hose. This is WRONG. The coolant at the back of the block has already been through the block and is on it's way out to the heater core (when it leaves the block through that fitting; most of the coolant routes up through the head and then back out through the upper radiator hose, IIRC). If you plumb it to the lower hose (which is going to the INLET of the water pump) you will be recirculating a significant portion of coolant. While it's done from the factory, it goes through a liquid to air heat exchanger which will cool it down some (the heater core) and who said factory was efficient anyways? Now, if you could tap into the outlet of the water pump (kinda hard since it's the face of the block) and route it to that back fitting, then you might have something.

That is my point. Every vehicle is different. Most new cars have a closed loop system with fuel pressure sensors and variable voltage to the pump. Mustangs also use this type of system and require intimate knowledge of reflashing the ECU to get it to work with an uprated pump; let alone trying to go return style.

Are you eliminating all the coolant accessory items?

Updates?

I've run into the same thing before. You somehow have it wired that both high and low are mixed in and you get extremely low light output.

I would hope anyone posting in the TURBO section would know that.

Now that sounds about just right!

You should be able to find pipe thread plugs for just about everything. I have a '77 and have removed all coolant stuff other than the rad hoses themselves and I needn't use any taps; everything was threaded. Yes, rubber caps will burst; usually where the worm clamp holds it down. Coolant is wicked nasty for electrical connectors. It gets on the contacts and impedes contact. It's not easy to get off once it tries.

Well heck if you don't give a ♥♥♥♥ about our 'interploted' language, then ask elsewhere. As a matter of fact, it DOES matter what vehicle it is as every car is different. The electronics is the hard part to get around; not the matter of plumbing a regulator and return system and removing the regulation in the tank. Fool. And no, you didn't start a 'friednly' discussion. SALUUTE back at you. (Yeah, yeah, I know it's an old thread, but in the case that he comes back on here. I mean heck, why not have someone come on here and start a thread: "HELP. I can't figure out how to install my AEM intake on my honda."

Interested in updates. I seriously like the idea of an RB25 or RB26 swap, but to be honest, I have owned 4G63's including EVO's and dollar for dollar you can make the 4G63 holler just as much if not more. I have owned 500 whp pump gas EVO's and it'd be a very nice setup for my S30.

Yeah, that alone takes about 20~30 minutes. (Just did mine)

No go, buddy.