rbpowered280z

well, check this out. as the the reason the R/T really sucks balls A) its a dodge its a full size 4 door "muscle car" C) Wheelbase 120.0 in Length 200.1 in Width 74.4 in Height 58.2 in SRT-8: 57.7 in curb weight 4160 lbs Vs Datsun 240z Wheelbase 90.7 in Length 162.8 in Width 64.1 in Curb weight 2,355 lb

maybe its just me, but i have met jack atkinson and asked him to teach me how to fiberglass, i was very serious and willing to dedicate however much time he wanted me to. while speaking to him, he just ignored the fact that i was dedicated and treated me like a kid (mind you im still only 21, but in my career already), we exchanged phone numbers and i tried contacting him, he never returned a phone call and i felt that was very rude and inconsiderate of someone wanting to further themselves. w/e, he is an AMAZING builder and fabricator, maybe not so good with people though. Lloyd

hope everything worked out. out of all the cars ive lowered, all the springs were way shorter, stouter, thats the way they work. anyways, best part about aftermarket springs, you only need to push down on them a tiny bit to get them on the shock. no spring compressor needed. Lloyd

nice, just the thread ive been searching for. i know the basics as far as wiring and electric theory (mecp cert). but what i dont know, is what would i need for my car? i plan on having a full system (subs, amps, deck, balancer), as well as a rb26 swap. i know that i will probably have to build my own wiring for the engine (want to run apexi powerfc), but how will all that work together with a custom wiring setup? Lloyd

hey, whenever you get around to making that cf dash, count me in. ill pay upfront, let you do your thing, i would LOVE a cf dash. either that, or ill just make an aluminum dash..............CF FTW!!! Lloyd

good to know. i guess since the car is so light, it doesnt make much difference. ok i have a question, if high hp is going to be a factor (500+), then does a coupler make sense? Lloyd

like challenger said, it helps absorb some of the vibrations and reduce the amount of feedback into the steering wheel. i have heard that urathane couplers just make it feel so harsh on the road. idk, i just found it curious that the op didnt use a coupler. Lloyd

ya, that steering coupler is what is called a rag joint. the op doesnt have one, thats why im asking about it. since you mentioned that he races, that makes sense. you dont need a coupler when racing. that would suck DD the car without one though. im thinking about converting mine from a rag-joint type to a modern double u joint. Lloyd

heres a question that i have. the last poster did it, but why didnt the op use a rag joint? for what i remember, that joint reduces alot of bumpiness and decreases the amount of bumpsteer. thats just from what i learned from wyotech. more info? Lloyd

i see a rotary housing in the back. and is that you? nice exhaust. vq huh, badass engine. good luck with the build. Lloyd

the bob sharp kit. a dude had the fg doors and hatch. i would like to find the whole kit. anyone know what im talking about, or know where to find it? Lloyd

I already know all about the subtle z and yz. They look good, but not what I'm looking for. There was a kit that sortof replicated the unknown monza Z. Its an insane kit, fg doors and hatch. Gr It has a dudes name in it Lloyd

Hey, i posted a couple of months ago, maybe a year ago, but im looking for a complete widebody fiberglass kit. the one im talking about has the doors, fenders, hatch, i wished i new who had it, cause i would REALLY like to get it. im still going to have to do a bit of work to the rear to hold down the power im going to get out of it, but still. anyone know what im talking about? Lloyd

straight up, sorry for downing all your hard work. ive been having a ♥♥♥♥ week and just got told im getting fired..................wtf. anyways, good work so far, im gunna be doing this as well, i guess im just a huge proponant of suspension mods first, then body, then the engine, but then again, ive never swapped in another engine in any of my personal vehicles, and the customers had alot of money. anywho, good work, i just know what want to do with the engine before i slap it in. Lloyd p.s. who ever said overkill is overkill.......perhaps its just the right about of kill

i see what you are sayin, but i totally disagree. i dont know what you do for a living, and i dont mean any disrespect, cause at least you are actually doing something that ive been dreaming of since i bought my car in 05. anyways, no disrespect, but you dont seem to understand the fundamentals of car building. you dont just do a engine swap and not look at everything first. that stupid. if you are going to put something in, make sure that the item that you swapping in is in good condition, if not rebuilt. secondly, you needed to have planned everything out, concept drawings, ect ect ect. have you figured out the wiring? seriously. no offense, but you really jumped the gun. i work at a VERY reputable vw resto shop and we do this daily. so, im just letting you know, you didnt do it right. good luck Lloyd

so i guess i have a question..........you have done all this work........and have done nothing with the drivetrain, body, suspension, nor did you even get the engine torn down, cleaned, checked THUROUGHLY, and then reassembled checking all clearences, bearings, the whole 9 yards? i guess its just me, but why start a big ass project like this without doing any of the other steps? isnt that kinda like licking off a dirty ass plate? Lloyd

hey, i got some epsilons, but i wish i could just find 1 damned center cap....... peace

heres mine. i think they are 16x8, epsilon meshies, no idea, got given to me. anyone know where i can find 1 cap? and yes, thats my car. peace

rbpowered280z- thanks for making me have to clean off my keyboard. THAT THING IS SEXY! glad i could do my civic duty. when i first saw that, i found out there is NO info on that car, just 3 photos. i want my car to look similar to that, more lemans style though, like the new e96 m3 that just got made for lemans. peace

will it look something like this one? peace

sick peace

you guys are kidding right? jeeeez, i wish i could do that. =( peace

replacing the stock bushings is retarded, i did them on both my 77 280z, and my (now deceased) 90 rx7, i think the bushings on the z were easier than the 7, due to the fact that the car is 13 years older, different more open design, and the stock ones basically fell apart. the feel: undescribable. im my late 7 (rest in piece(s)) i had tokico illumina with tanabe springs, full poly bushings, stiff mounts, and 225/45 tires. ya sure, i could feel a ridge in marble, but it was still amazing, although norcal roads arent the greatest. if you want good feel, stiff ride, and to be able to throw the car around turns and have alot of fun, do it. if you arent into racing, or even spirited driving, just replace them with oem rubber. i always say just go poly, they dont break down, ever. peace

I WANT. rb30 with a rb25 head and some nice t60 turbos. rbpowered280z here we go. i already have the suspension and brakes, time for some power. need to finish the outside though........... peace

hm. i think i might have talked to pete at zonc in blackhawk, unless im sadly mistaken, might have been someone else. badass door panels, i would totally do the cf ones. anyone know where i can get fg doors though? im doing a full race/show/street car and want to keep the car as light as possible but with lux. BADASS cf door panels. ill hit you back up when i am ready to do it. peace