spork

Looks like its come a long way. Can't wait to see some finished pics with paint and all!

any underside pics?

Are you using wooden blocks to go around the pinch weld? I've seen that done before and it bothers me. The wood can and will split over time, so keep an eye on it. I've seen it happen, and the last thing you want is to have the car shift while its way up in the air. One shop I saw had a set of aluminum ones that were wrapped with some rubber sheet. Apparently they made them themselves.

We're still missing some of the information needed. Tire size and what kind of mph you expect to run. Try this link and once you get all your information together, input it and you'll be able to answer your own question. trans, gear, mph calculator

If you have access to a sandblaster, it will do wonders at getting them apart. Block off the oil passage and then blast all around the seam (with all bolts removed). They usually will come right apart if you do that. Clean everything up and re-assemble as needed.

That's hard to know without knowing what gear ratio you have in the r200, what your tire size is, and what rpm you plan on shifting at. If you get us those details, it'll be easy to know.

That figures...that's the book that I've been looking for..almost a week now. Probably loaned it out never to be seen again. Guess it's time to buy another copy! Thanks Tony!

Tony, you don't happen to have any pictures? I was pretty sure that the electramotive car used a motor plate...but I haven't come up with pictures any where. I've been skimming through books and websites without much luck so far. Like I said, I've got the midplate handled, but where to attach the front plate just looks kinda hairy.

Silly question, but are you checking the circuit when it's working, or when there is no power to the headlights? It should be pretty simple to diagnose when they're not working. Turn them on, if they don't work, start checking for power and ground at the harness connections. Start at the lights themselves and move back. Makes sure you are checking power and ground at each spot. Eventually, you'll come to a place that doesn't have one or the other. I suspect its the switch itself, whether or not the contacts were cleaned, it could just be wearing out. But if you follow the circuits path, you will find the problem. Just make sure it's not working when you trouble shoot!

Well, as some may know, I purchased Stony's black 260z drag car as a roller. I'm in the process of getting the engine and trans mounted (L-series w/ powerglide). I've got my midplate figured out and how it'll mount, but was trying to figure out a front motor plate. Honestly, it looks like it would be a mess. Has anyone done one on a l-series? If so, where did you attach it to the engine? Got any pictures? Should I skip the idea of a front motor plate and just solid mount at the stock motor mount locations? Is there any big advantage to the motor plate vs solid mounts in the stock locations on the block?

Well.. I understand the welding of the pilot, but why shave the rear of it 6mm? That's the confusing tid bit for me?

I'd like to see a little discussion on this part of the original post. Who else has heard of or done this modification? Can any real explanation be made. It seems I've heard a reference to this someplace before.

Did you try adjusting the dip switches on the back of the boost controller? I know you said it worked before, but there are adjustments you can make if it's overboosting. I figure it's worth a shot. Did you check to make sure your reference line to the back of the controller is hooked up? Also, are you running an internal or external wastegate? If it turns out that the profec is broken, I have a used one for sale in my parts for sale ad My link I know, it's a shameless plug, but I really do hope you can get yours working. I really liked mine when I had it on my car.

I have a bwt5 out of a 83 280zxt car. It has no bell housing. I bought it and was told it came from a good running car, but I never installed it. It was just a "back-up" for my race car, but I never tore up the one I had, so it was never needed. $75 plus shipping. If you give me your zipcode, I can quote shipping as well.

I haven't seen James Thagard post here recently, but he made an adapter plate kit for the GM trannies. I have one of his kits that I'm using for my power glide. He may be able to make another "kit" for the right price. It might be worth trying to track him down. His website used to be www.speedshopthagard.com, but it doesn't seem he has it anymore as the site is dead.