nscason

about taking the bolts out... there isnt enough room to get a socket on, and a regular opened end wrench will strip the head off the bolt. i had a few of the bolts get stuck on me. i sprayed the hell out of them with release agent and then let it sit for a while. after that i used a tubing wrench. it wont slip off the bolt and you can get it in the tight spots. you can try hitting the wrench with a hammer. it might work and it might bust the bolt head. put the turbo in a vice and maybe try a small cheater pipe on the wrench. i will eventually give. hopefully it dosent bust the bolt. you'll be in a world of hurt then. hope that helped some. it worked for me.

ah... a race through time. i think i actually recognized some of those turns from my racing games.

i say thats a good deal of body work for 3k. looking at that gave me more ideas on what little things that i could do to my z.

you say you are going to send the 78 to be scrapped? would you be willing to cut off a certain section of the body off, box it and mail it? i need the section where the gas door is. not the door itself just the inside part where the boot going to the tank is and the outside section of the body around the gas door. mine rotted out and i planned on changing some stuff. send me a pm if you can. thanks. i did forget to mention that there are bearings on the front of the car for the struts.

i have a 77 and i have put on the ebach progressive rate lowering springs. i know that there is no difference from those years that would cause that problem. there is a rubber spacer that fits under the isolator. i had to replace some of the parts that literally fell apart when i started messing with it. might be something like that. did you get something switched from the front to the back? might be that.

sorry to hear that. i spent my day at home. i went on a long bike ride out in the country. it was 120 degrees out. nice summer day. i need to make another call to MSA to see if there is some kind of relay that i have that went out. i could now easily just take out the light itself. but what fun would that be?

i drove my car around. the damn light is still on. oh well. i didnt feel like disconnecting the light itself.

ok. i have been unemployed for over a month. i have been at home the whole time. i got bored and took the dash out of my car to tare out all of the a/c and fan stuff. it didnt work all that great. i drive with the windows down all the time anyways. my car has been apart and parked for the past 2 or 3 weeks. i finally got around to putting the car back together today. i didnt mess with the speedo. i think that the problem is elsewhere. i did figure out that there are only 2 screws holding in the speedo and the tack. one of them is the on you can see from the drivers seat. the other is on the bottom side of the back of the gauge. i dont know how to better describe it. you are going to need to unscrew the speedo cable to take out the gauge. i did mess with all of the connection all over. even one of the ones that was under the passenger seat. i dont know if the light is off or not. sorry. i just put sh*t back together and went inside. i plan on driving around this weekend though. i will be sure to let everyone know of the out come.

so thats what those two relays are under the passenger seat. i have wondered about that for the longest time. i will see if it looks like there is a bad connection there and try tapping the relays as well. thanks for the little bit of insight. i finally got around to doing something. i got bored and took out the whole dash. i figured on just messing with all of the electrical and sort of hooking it all back up before i put the dash back in. just to see if there was any differences. i really got to know how everything was set up under there finally. going to take out some of the factory a/c stuff that didnt really work. need room for the new turbo ecu for my turbo swap.

i havent done a damn thing. i have been occupied with my turbo swap components. porting and matching a p90a head, turbo manifold and n42 non egr intake. i am close to done and will start to get back to all of the little things that my car needs. what all have you tried if anything at all?

yea i have a 77 280z and have the stock dizzy and the 60mm tb with the stock tps on it. i am expecting the wiring harness out of a 81zxt in the mail this thursday. from some of the reading that i have done i figured i would need to get a hold of a zxt dizzy. i know that the knock sensor screws into the passenger side of the block. my question is; does the hole go all the way through the wall of the block, or does the sensor just get threaded into the same kind of hole like the head temp sensor? what is the tap size that you are going to be getting?

those answered some questions, and raised others. im not going to need the knock sensor, will need the head temp and oxygen sensors. there is a difference with the tps and the dizzy vs. the n/a versions? i have an aftermarket ignition system. will using my dizzy still work? or my tps? should those items be added to the list of things to get? im trying to get all of this electrical sorted out before i jump into it.

sweet cuz i was going to run a mechanical autometer boost gauge anyways. you have saved me money and headaches already. thanks. right now i have the crame cams xr3000 and the ps91 coil. if i got the hi-6 with the timing retarding knob would that help against the motor from knocking? if i remember correctly i can set the knob up to so many degrees retarted /psi of boost. would i want to set that up before i get the turbo on?

i am going to be setting up a turbo and the full wiring harness to a n/a motor with a n42 block. the wiring harness is from a 81 zxt with a 5spd. am i going to need the knock sensor? i just dont know what will happen if i dont have any of the sensors that a turbo has that n/a motor dosent. do i really need the knock sensor? what happens if i dont??? do i need the head temp, boost and oxygen sensor as well? what is not necessary for the basic function?

what block does the knock sensor go on that i am thinking of? if it is not a f54? i have been told by MSA that one is located on the timing cover. will that setup still work for my turbo swap?

wow. that was one dirty turbo. i got a hold of a t3 and a parts t3. i got both off of ebay and the parts t3 was $10 and had all of the rebuild parts. saved myself at least $80 in parts. neither of my turbos were that dirty. i media blasted the parts that i was going to use and sprayed black heat paint on the turbine side. i am doing a turbo swap to my N/A 77 280z and just wanted to start off with the stock parts for now. after all it is a jump from no turbo at all. i have limited myself from not working on the turbo in the house. what i have learned from people that rebuild these for a living is to coat everything in ENGINE ASSEMBLY LUBE. that is very important and possibly overlooked. you dont put a cam back in a motor dry do you? turbos should be handled the same way. all of the reading that i have done on this site i havent seen anything about putting them back together with the lube. if you dont have the turbo back together yet, get it media blasted at a machine shop then put a nice coat of heat paint on the bearing housing and turbine housing. i am also going to port out the whole turbo. why not, it is apart now. there is my $.02

i have learned quite a bit from my last post on this thread. i have also purchased a p90a head and it is in pretty good shape. i am going to take it apart clean it and port the hell out of it. i have seen the difference in the lifters, i just dont understand how the hydraulic ones work. could some one explain that to me? i did find the spot for the head temp sensor. i have also learned that the knock sensor is located on a bracket on the timing cover. am i going to have any problems with the lack of oil ports going from my n42 block to this p90a head? i dont want to have my only car apart to find out i needed to switch to solid lifters. i still dont quite know. sorry if it seems like i posted in the wrong forum. all of my question are turbo swap specific. it made sense to me. thanks for any help.

nice. ill have time later this week. i think i might get to the problem. i dunno. there is all kinds of other electrical gremlins i have to find and kill. might as well get that one too. my car was fine when i got it 3 years ago. it just turned 30. so its age is starting to catch up with it. little things waring out, chewing threw wires... sh*t like that. *followed by a tired sigh*

yes. one day i will get to the source of the problem. it might be this week. i just got vacation time. honestly i figured to replace the bulb that the gauge would have to be taken out. my dad has some old collectible jeeps and to do anything like that you have to take out the whole gauge cluster. one has a radio and it took him 4 or 5 hours just to get to it. he had to take out both seats, the center console, a/c unit and then some. all that just to spend 2 seconds to spray some contact cleaner on the volume nob. lets hope that kind of thing wont be the case.

hahaha. i just got told that i wouldnt be needed at my job for a week or two, so... there isnt going to be any excuse not to try and figure this problem out. i might actually try and trouble shoot the problem some time next week. i never thought of the electrical tape over just the visual part of the light. i might have some answers in the next week or two.

so what... you just put the switch back in??? my switch is there and it is hooked up. i do think it is some kind of bad connection. you never told me if you fixed the problem or if you got the light to stay off. i am still wondering.

thats pretty funny. are you going to make us guess what your solution was. my light being on doesnt bother me any more, but if you have a posible solution for me where i wouldnt have to spend hours apon hours beating my head in, i would love to hear it. i havent had the extra time to find the problem. there has always been something else that was more important to fix first. does the light come on when the parking brake is engaged or is it off for good? like i have said i would eventually like to fix it and not to just get rid of the problem.

i do have a few plugged holes in the t stat housing. would the head temp sensor be the right size? is that ill it does? just senses an increase in the water temp? i didnt quite know how it worked. will the motor run the same with the stock ecu if the knock sensor isnt hooked up? i have a n/a and never had a turbo before. im just trying to understand everything before i bolt it up.

the thing is... i have most of the turbo components that a n/a dosent have. right now i have a header on my car that is ready to be thrown away. its that bad. i live in a desert that gets up to 130. im not kiddin. that hot. i just took it off this last weekend to weld up the cracks that i could get to. still couldnt get to all of them. i figured why not slap on all of the turbo stuff on my existing motor. i might be able to do it in a weekend. mostly stock turbo parts plus ic and bov. i havent got a hold of a cam yet. figured on just slapping on all the stuff and installing a turbo cam. on the side i did get a hold of the same block that i have right now. it is brand new never been ran or turned over. i got it for dirt cheep. thats my motor build. i did figure on going with a p90 for that one. i just didnt want to buy 2 heads. i am going to be going all out on the new motor. its just the one that i have now. i guess if i can find a p90 for cheap w/ or w/o a turbo cam ill put it on my car now. i would like to get a hold of one this summer. now for my original question. is it possible to drill and tap the holes for the knock and head temp sensor, weather it be done by me with the right tools or by a machine shop? and is it is possible where exactly are the holes located?

i did end up buying it. come on $30. it is a shot in the dark but it might work fine. now i wish that i new someone here local that had a 81-83 zxt. is there any kind of difference in the ecu weather it has a stick or auto trans? that part still is unclear to me.