nscason

to say the least. if there is a big rusted area and you dont have the tools and equipment to fix it yourself, a good body shop is your best bet. that is if it IS rust that is the problem. if you are going to take it to a body shop do some research first. just so you dont get ripped off or get poor quality work.

My girlfriend came up with this great idea. Everybody going to the Z car Nationals In Orange this year should make some kind of signs to put in or on your cars for when we are at the car show. i dint know if the members already do that or not. i would like to know what cars are owned by the different members. i would even like to talk to a lot of you guys and get plenty of ideas like i did last year. is there stickers or something that this site already has. if there is i would sport them. if not i would by some if someone wanted to make them. i just thought it would be neat to have all the members have something on there cars to distinguish them.

oh boy the nationals. ill have my car there. i did last year. i really hope to have all the body work done and the car painted by then. i had my car in the show last year. while we are on the subject... what is the best compression ratio for a turbo motor? i know that lower compression is better for those kind of applications. how do you change that? special machining, or one of those metal head gaskets? isnt the stock compression 9. something for a 77? what is ideal for a turbo and how do you get there?

to be honest i never intended on pushing my fpr to 100 psi. that would be asking for trouble. i do understand that doing that cant be good for my stock pump. the highest that i would be thinking of going would be around 70 to 75 psi.

I watch spike tv and they are always showing off these aftermarket heads for all kinds of motors. is there any kind of head like that for a z? or do you guys that need a certain characteristic just use one from a different year and modify it a little?

Ok, i have a 77 with all kinds of bolt ons. i am running the stock motor(n/a), big bore tb, zxt injectors cold air intake, header, cran cams xr3000... and so on and so on. my question is, besides fuel consumption what is the difference from running 30 to 60 psi? i had a problem a while back. my fpr went out. there was a hole in the diaphragm. gas was coming out of the vacuum port. i have a palnet fuel rail with a gauge. before that fpr went out it was running at 30 psi. i had an extra zxt fpr that i put on and it now runs at 60 psi. i dunno, i think that the car seems to like it more. i am in the process of putting in all kinds of aftermarket fuel stuff. the new fpr is adj from 30 to 100 psi. can anyone give me some good info on the difference from running the pressure at the stock 30 on up? no one that i have talked to where i live seems to really know. if any one can shed some light on this for me that would be great. thanks.

You may want to adjust the striker on that hatch. if i remember correctly you take out the licence plate lights. its just the 2 screws on the ledge as you open the hatch. there are just 2 and they are right in the middle. that pulls out and the bottom part of the latch is behind it. there is only so much adjustment in the whole thing. my take on the weather stripping is to just buy new weather stripping. if yours is in bad condition why mess with it. i have been meaning to buy a whole car kit. i just haven't got around to it. to find the leak you can always sit in you car and have someone blast it with the hose. that or go to one of those car washes and just look around. i dunno thats what i would do to find the leak. hope i helped.

oh just to get back to you guys. i changed out my bosch plugs and they looked how they should. the 5th and 6th cylinder plugs had a little extra black build up. but not much. i put the ngks on and the car seemed to like it a little more. Are there special tools to clean off spark plugs for reuse? i would like to keep the ones that i bought and take them out and clean them off every other servicing. or is that a complete waste of time?

thanks for the info. you sort of lost me in that last part. i dont know all of the nos or turbo lingo. i do understand the very end. my question is, is methanol and race fuel thats 111 octane the same stuff? there is a gas station that sells the 111 octane stuff around here. or is methanol completely different? I would need a secondary fuel sorce or a second smaller fuel cell for the nos stuff right? oh and the Hp numbers you gave me was that with the nos included? I would eventualy like 300 to 350 just on the motor. I do have a stock 77 n/a set up. thats as far as the head, block, pistons, cam... is concerned. but i do have almost all the bolt ons that you can get. to go turbo would i be able to change the cam and just bolt on the rest and have it give me more power? or do i have to rebuild the motor for a different compretion ratio? its the only car that i have to drive and i cant have a lot of down time.

I just looked at the pics and i have a white 77 and just spray painted the tail panel white this week. it gives the back a whole different look. what would prompt some one to donate something like that to a church? or was the money given to the church? i dont really understand im not religious and very possessive over my things.

Ok i dont know about you guys but i bought my car almost 2 years ago and the damn fan clutch went out. I live in a desert and it was the beginning of summer. that ended up cracking the head. i got another fan clutch and it to went out a month later so i did the cheap thing and bought a solid flex fan. it is nosier and i didnt go with the electric pump only because i dont want to buy an electric fan. I do plan on going with the other set up some time when i get around to it. i think its well worth it especially when you have an aluminum radiator. to me that is a good sound cooling system that would work great in stopped traffic in a desert or on a race track.

wow thats really pretty. thats exactly what i imagined that it would look like on my motor. how much did it run for all that nos plumbing and did you do it yourself? what do you mean by unforgiving and how much does it cost to refill a nos bottle anyways? would i be able to put that kind of setup on a daily driver? or is that a high maintenance setup?

I don't have a turbo charger on my 77 280 and eventually want some serious power. I do know that it is cheaper and more beneficial to go with a turbo. I don't want to dump a ton of money into my motor that is n/a right now when i can do the turbo thing and get way more power and cheaper. my question is can you use NOS with a turbocharger set up? I watch the power block on spike TV religiously and i have noticed that the different drag racers are n/a, super charger, turbo charged or NOS powered. I have never seen a set up with both turbo and NOS on it. Is it possible or does it not work for some reason? this has nothing to do with my car for now. it was more or less one of those random thoughts. Anyone have any ideas?

oh thets a great idea. i never thought about putting the proportioning valve there. i have thought about right where the parking brake is right now. thanks for the alternative placement idea. i use the ash tray for nothing but extra stuff. i bought the armrest that has the extra cup holders. oh man that was so worth buying. i got the carbon fiber one and its worth the extra 10 or 20 bucks.

I dont know how many ppl have told me about the v8 swap when i got my car. the problem i have with that is first finding a good motor and all the parts to put it in. i dunno it just seemed easyer for me to beef up the one i have now. I have over 200 hp easy and its plenty for a daily driver. but that isnt anywhere close to enough for me.

i have a 77 and it is an ash tray that goes there. it is nice to have. i keep extra stuff in there. all the early zs have the ash tray in the same spot. the only difference in the early zs center console is the choke lever and some different lights below the radio.

I dont know of to many people douing what i have done. I had that old crappy brown stained carpet and didnt like it. so i ripped it all out and put in the do it yourself bed linning, hurkuliner. it turned out real nice and insolated my car better. from heat not sount. it did get a bit louder. so far every one that i talked to liked it. even the people i talked to when i was in the 2006 motorsport auto west coast nationals that i was in last year.

first off where was the location of each realay on the car and what is the car exactily?

ok. i rebuilt the whole top end of my motor. all i had was a header on it with no exaust. it is ok to start it like that. you just dont want to drive it around like that a whole lot cuz there isnt enough back pressure. you can drive it to the muffler shop after the timing and all that is set up. it will be very loud though. if there is any laws about exaust noise you might want to go to a shop close to where the car is. the only thing wrong with a straight header is the lack of back pressure. thats only if you dont have a race engine that dosent need it. hope i helped some.

well thanks for all the info. some time soon ill change out my bosch plugs for the ngk's and hope for some better results.

I have a 77 and done a lot of upgrades. zxt injectors, zxt fpr and billet fuel rail. before my stock fpr took a dump it was running at 30psi. It went out and i had a zxt fpr so I put that one on. Now it runs at 60psi. As soon as I get the rest of the parts that I need I'm going to put on a mallory universal fpr all done up with -8an. I do have a lot of ign, intake and exhaust parts. My question is what is the difference and what is better to run the fuel presser at? I don't have a air to fuel ratio gauge or a computer to hook my car up to. Do i need to get the air to fuel set up? Or as long as the pressure isn't to low it doesnt really matter? No one that I know has been able to give me a solid answer besides more psi more gas consumption. Keep in mind this is my daily driver and I'm a college student. If anyone could give me some insight on this issue that would be great.

Ok i just looked online at summit racing and they have 4 different kinds of ngk spark plugs. they all use a copper core but the prices go from 2 bucks a pice to 7. what would be the better one to use with all the after market ignition stuff that i have? the iridium tipped, the platinum tipped, the v power with nickel alloy tip, or the regular nickel alloy tipped. I have a cranecams xr 3000, e core coil and i changed the distributer from points to LED. those changes made quite a difference. I do want to go with one of the multispark hi-6 that cranecams has to work with a mallory unilite distributor. what do you guys think? would those work well and what spark plug is the better one to use?

I have had the bosch platinums in there for over a year and put all kinds of after market ignition parts on and they seemed to work fine for me. what are the kind that are ment to be used?

I rebuilt the whole top end of my motor when I cracked the head (I live in a desert and summers are VERY hot:flamedevi ). I put all kinds of new parts on to beef up the hp. After 5 months of sitting in my back yard i finally put it all back together. it cranked and started right up. that right there is the best feeling in the world after doing it all yourself. About a week later the motor didn't want to cooperate and run. Earlier that week I was talking to the mechanic who resurfaced my head and i told him all the stuff i was putting on. I went and paid 4-5 bucks for each one of these spark plugs and I was all excited. Hey instantly told me that everybody that he knew used those spark plugs said that they weren't worth it. After about 5 minutes of wondering why my motor wouldn't run i thought "oh hell ill give it a shot" and so i went down to auto zone to get bosch platinum's. I put those in and the car fired right up. it ran even better than before. So don't waste your money.

ok i used to work at a windshield shop and installed mine myself. most places can get them and i got mine new for about $75 and a new gasket for $25. get a new one its worth it. the labor though is the variable. have you installed a z windsheild before? if you were trying to remove the old windshield so you could reuse it you just need to take out the crome molding and destroy the gasket. its cheaper to replace that. well hope i was a help.