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What is the hooker super comp part number that you guys are using?

I cleaned the parts up a bit and started measuring things. The guy I bought it from told me that the engine was rebuilt 500 miles before the car was parked...and assured me that all that was needed was an oil change and the motor would be ready to go. The cylinders are already bored .060 over, and theres about another .020 of wear, so the block is toast. All the main and rod bearings were down to the copper, and the rear main seal was in backwards. The crank has already been ground to the minimum, and its nicely grooved up, so into the scrap pile with that. I haven't taken apart the heads yet, but I'll assume that they're probably junk too. This throws a wrench into things a little bit, now I've got to find another engine.

About the diff.....I couldn't find anything nissan specific on either of those websites, I'll try calling them on monday. But should I find an LSD to put in the original R180 or should I swap the whole rear end out to a ??? and get a diff for that?

I think thats the plan....for the time being anyway. The deeper I get into this car, the more hack the conversion looks. All the wiring will have to come out and I'll build a new harness for it....nice and clean. I found 4 ballast resistors throughout the engine bay...and 3 coils. 2 ballast resistors were hooked up and one coil. I'm going to simplify things a bit....its a race car anyway and doesn't need half the stuff thats in it. I pulled the pan and the bottom end looks decent, just needs a hot tank and I'll hone it and do the rings and bearings. Its got 202 camel hump heads that have some very nice port work done, which I'll clean up and use for now but probably replace with aluminum down the road for weight savings. Its got an M21 gearbox, which I hope will hold up. I'm going for 450-500 hp with the motor, and as long as I don't abuse it, the trans should be fine. I found a R200 diff and halfshafts locally for a couple hundred bucks, so I'll probably pick that up next week. I've got lots of reading to do here...and lots of work to! Looks like I'll be busy for the next couple of weeks.

OK, next question. I know there are a million post here about it, but I couldn't find any diffinitive answers. On the drivers side, I have a header tube that is about 1/2 away from the radius rod mount, when I move the engine back, it will hit. Is the only alternative, when setting the engine farther back, to use block hugger shorties or S10 shorties. I know I can make my own longtubes, but I'd really rather not. I imagine the only way to know for sure it to order 20 sets of different headers and see what works, but thats not really doable either.

This is my first post here, I've done a lot of reading in the past couple eeks though. Today I brought home my new Z. its a 73 that had the sb chevy swap done back in 84, and it hasn't been run since 86. I'm yanked the thermostat housing tonight and the coolant passage was full of a nice gel-like substance. The motor is coming out tomorrow for at least a good hot tank, and probably a full rebuild. It came with a Muncie 4 spd (not sure which one yet), bolt in roll bar (up for sale) and some old school corbeu seats. The original builder also made it into a wide body, its got some really nice looking flares, but they're mostly bondo I think. I paid $3500 for it. I have a couple of questions, and yes, I searched. This is replacing my VW GTI as my road race car, and I'm concerned about weight distribution. As it sits, the distrubutor (mallory dual point) is about 4 inches away from the firewall. The motor mounts use a "C" shaped piece of 3/16s and what appears to be the original datsun rubber mounts with an adaptor to bolt onto the chevy motor. Is this an off the shelf kit or some kind of homebrew setup? I'm a fabricator, so I plan on making new mounts anyway to put the motor where I want it, I was just curious. Second, regarding the rear diff. I read the FAQ that stated that the general weekpoints in these diffs were the spiders, and that for road racing applications, the factory LSDs are kinda weak as well. Has anyone ever road raced with a welded diff? I've done it in a FWD car and it wasn't much fun, but I haven't driven a RWD car on the track a long time, so I'm not sure what road to go down here. You guys have a great site, I hope to contribute something useful to it someday.....oh, and I just donated to the site too. EDIT: just got the heads off, its a 327 Here's some pics. Click on the thumbnails.