King's Evil

Hey guys, been a while. I been busy with life, trying to make money and been away from home alot for my job. So I am home for serval weeksends. I am trying to put my old Z back together that I been building for years. I want this year of the summer for her to drive! I would need the good ol Z support. My Z is basically a 1973 240Z that been chopped, gutted, and chassis split into many peices, and reworked it back together, rewelded, seamless welded, four inch bottom sectioned chopped. Modifed a 1987 Corvette Rear IRS into the modfied Datsun Chassis. It had a 1994 Police LT-1 with a t56 6 speed swap in her with its own standalone wiring harness. When She had the stock rearend, the lt motor blew it up and the case exploded, like litteraly exploded. way too much power. So anyways thats when I swapped the corvette rear end. So she sat for awhile all apart for rebuild. Now that I came back to it the wiring is my issue, I hacked up the orginal datsun harness so much that I forgotten how it all worked. Too many left over wiring that is useless. I got a gutted dash, awaiting for autometer gauges, need to have all light to work, horn and turn singel, and maybe the ignition wiring. I am not all that savey with wiring, So I decided get a complete chassis harness kit for the Datsun chassis. Basically for the lights, turn signal, horn, brakes and that whole 9 yards. Anyone can point me what harness kit I could go for this Z? Here's what she look like today.

Thanks guys! Just what I need, I just need to pop those old ones out and put these in, I was hoping to keep it 12x 1.25. Oh well as long they press in nice and tight then I'm happy. Hey mal-tiempo, when they are pressed into the hub how long they come out?

Hoping it can be flush or more inside the adapture,if it sticks out I can always grind some length off. I can go with 1.75 studs. Just hoping someone can point me out where to get correct long studs.

Hey guys, been a while that I been off on the forums, but I am back. I been working in on this Z and this girl isn't stock anymore. I got a pair of 2" wheel spacers for the front to widen my track width because I installed a complete 87 C4 Corvette rear ifs into my Z. The front studs are not long enough, the spacer lug bolts are only grabbing a quarter of the threads, that will worries me if I drive it like that. Can anyone point out where I can get a set of correct 2" studs for the stock hub? Sorry if this a basic question, I just want to get the right stuff when it come to wheels. Here's some picture of my Z for your troubles. Thanks!

I'll post a build tread for my C4 swap and Z once everything is done. It's kinda my rule to do that. Ill help out with questions and all. Sooner it's done sooner the build tread would follow up. Just hope someone can chime in with my question about the track with differance setup. I almost was going to not narrow it and run wide flares, but I want my Z look little stockish for that sleeper effect, and it's alot easier to get around in a small z.

I'll post a build tread f

Should the C4 track width be the same in the front of a Z for a auto cross? The stock c4 setup is about 7 inch wider track than in the front of a first gen Z. I think having the c4 wide is good for drag, but alot of understeer. Making it narrow enough the front track is .5 or 1 inch wider than in the track rear. Corvette Rearend is 80lb lighter than the Oem Datsun Rearend. I think it a great upgrade, less unsprung weight.

Try getting the wheels on first then flares, I think your may stick out 5 to 7 inches. I used to have 16x8 with 4 inch offset with 10 inch slicks, they stick out past the fender about 3/8".

I honestly like your doors, if you could get some close ups that would be cool, I don't really need door panels, but if something you want to throw in with the doors, that cool. How does the window work on your doors, any stripped handles gears or so? Let me know, I still have couple of weeks to decide till my pay day comes. Thanks all.

Thanks for so much post in such short time, I wonder if shipping doors would be cheap if its within the states? Let me know I will be interested. When you are wanting let them go, lets talk I got few questions for the doors you got. If not let me know so I can pick my options. Pictures would be great too, and your asking price and quote for shipping to 95687. Got any pictures of them? Whats your qoute for 95687 and your price? What they came off of? Thanks so far

Hey guys, I got a 1973 240Z, and I am in need for two complete doors on both sides. Preferably all good condition with keys, don't care on paint or small dents, Electric windows models are a plus. I am located in Vacaville, California 95687. Hoping could find some locals. Send pics and your price, maybe shipping price? Thanks.

To answer your question, I think "for me" the corvette IRS is alot cheaper than Arizona prices for brake set up, and LSD conversion, and misc parts. Plus the C4 aluminum rearend maybe alot lighter than the stock 1st gen Datsun rearend component., therefore it ease up the suspension weigh travel and rotating mass once narrowed. I wanna throw out that the corvette brakes maybe better/cheaer than most disc brakes that offered for the stock Datsun setup and even for the aftermarket Q45 setups.The Corvette c4 is much an heavier car than the 240Z, and its braking might be worthwile for the 240Z. I got the 1987 Corvette Dana 44 rear end for dirt cheap cheap, almost for free for me, it was in complete condition. I had to modify the corvette rear end into size to match up the 240Z suspension. I might run wheel adapter for the front to widen up the track of the 240z to gain its handing maybe would be better than stock with its wheel adapter.. I am using the 17x11 aluminum wheels with 335/35-17 tires which is heavier than the stock setup, with the c4 rearend, which is lighter, it may equalize to the stock 240z setup and remove the wheel hop and wheel spin for higher hp applications. The first gen suffer this alot even with upgraded suspension in the rear. I am still in the progress building the Z with this Corvette end, I see many benefits over any stock setup for a Z. It may preform better since the C4 provide the anti squat setup. "Note: Many Z out there suffer the rear squat under acceleration with higher hp/tq set up" It only take true guts to cut a Z up to fit this C4 rearend. I took this path because it was cheaper than anything else, and I believe I could I could cut a Z up and make it better. I spend over a thousand to get it to fit, maybe more. It also take real measurement to cut up a Corvette rearend to match the front to equalize track width to gain handling. I am just throwing random information out there about my little Z project, plus I am a bit drunk at the moment. Please accept for my spelling or grammar errors.

I am in the progress swapping a 1987 Corvette rearend on my 73" 240z, I'd tell ya it takes alot of cutting and welding on the IRS and the Z if you wanted to make it look "stock".

The label are pretty much torn off by age, so I couldn't get the specs. I should had looked all the sticky before I asked these questions. The 280zx booster and master cylinder might be the better option afterall. Rockauto.com sells A1 Cardone 280zx Boosters and A1 Master Cylinder with the 15/16" bore. So does some local autostores. How do you guys feel about the A1 Cardone brand?

Hello again guys, I got a 1973 240z with the Lt-1 T-56 swap, and the Z has a lot of work done on her. She is getting near to that point that all her inside isn't stock anymore. I am currently trying to get ideas and opinion on the brakes section on the Z and need to make sure she got enough reliably and stopping power she can have at the moment, since she got a injected 450hp/450tq V8 rocking in her. Right now, she got the Silvermine Motor Stage 4 Brake kit on the front and the rear got the 87' Corvette rearend in the progress being swapped in her. All lines and master cylinder and booster are bone stock. I wanted get a new booster and master cylinder setup just for the ease of mind, and I am sure they may preform better than the used 280zx booster setup. I was looking at getting something with 1 inch bore master cylinder with a 11" Booster from Jegs or Ebay. I heard of stories when people play with the bore size they had problems stopping at higher speed and their pedal goes down to the floor, and had to keep repumping to brake again. I wanted to avoid that much as possible at the track and most of all on the streets. Since the Corvette rear got 11" plain brake rotor with a big single piston calipers and the front got a drilled and vented 11" rotor in the front with 4 piston calipers, would an 1" master cylinder with 11" Booster do good, with out failure? I do plan getting a portion value to set things up "and an hydraulic hand break for some tricks and fun " I am not brake smart and I was hoping the HybridZ guys to help me out with my specific setup. I would appreciate any opinion and help on my brake setup.

That is interesting, I would think the other way around. Thanks for the info oz. Say, since I added a good 200lb drive-train weight on a stripped reinforced body of a 240z, would it be a good idea to cut say about 2 coil all around to get that 2-3inch drop temporary? The Z is bouncy like an oldsmoblie as it it now if you push on it. Would too much of a coil chop could had the coil pop off the coil holder during driving? I was thinking welding a bit on the top and bottom to keep it in place. I plan getting coil overs, and running like that for 6 month till I can get a kit. I wanted to do this since I am going to raise the engine and tranny a bit, also raise the front cross member about an inch, raise the tranny mount about 4 inch (the engine is sitting at an extreme angle about 4 degree) and give the Z a bottom section chop about 1 or 3 inches. If I dont cut the spring it would look like it's sitting like a offroader. It sound crazy, but the bottom of the Z got bunch of rust, I figured to chop all that out and install a nice flat floors, and lower the car. I am hoping to get about 43 inches total ride right. I also plan lowering the seat, taking the seat adjustment off and removing the seat support so the rider and passenger can feel like they are in a really low car. A plus is I can wear a racing helmet with out hitting the top pillars. Not to mention to see the ladies on the street, get what I'm saying (lol). Since I thinking about chopping entire floors out and possibility the trans tunnel, I might be able to install the roll cage underneath of the car instead chopping the top to finish the weld. Any thoughts?

That is correct the R200 is a open differential type. Think it just because its an open differential all the power goes to one wheel during a turn, but not on a straigt line? When I had my old open R180, I let it down to the floor it roasted two tires evenly, and left a pair of black lines on the road. I fetch the R200 rear end since it was a good deal for cheap and was the quickest way to get the car on the road. Maybe I should add; my rear tires "looks" bald, it just have two single threaded line on each tires. There no real thread, and the rear tires are straight up completion tires. I didnt know an lsd could make that huge of a different. My old R180 did good until it blew, and it had a 3.36 gear ratio, while the R200 I just got has an 3.9. Too much wheel spin, too little thread? I am using the same rear tires on both rearends, which measures about 10.5". Just trying to figure things out here. Go ahead copy the design, I got to take a picture of my custom mufflers setup, it looks really nice on my little Z.

Care to explain? Removing a coil stiffen the suspension, is it because less suspension travel?

She makes sure that I am in the seat really well, she should be a bit faster than she is now. I been loosing traction after quarter throttle, I see my tac going to the moon at the quarter throttle, tire roasting smell and blasting off the line. Everyone can see a cloud of smoke that where she was. I really need to do something about that, I wanna at least roast them 3/4 of the throttle and have all the traction I need. That where my wide tire idea comes in. I have a buddy with a 510, he chop the springs in the back to soften up the springs and lower it, when the spring is softer the tire can mate to the ground better, but a draw back could be bouncy/rough ride. Could this help any?

Hey guys, I built a 1973 Datsun 240z with a V8 and 6 Speed out of a 1994 Camaro and just recently swapped a R200 with a 3.9 in it. Now that I have serious traction issue at quarter throttle, I need wider wheels to keep the traction on the road. Kinda scary going on the freeway roasting them 1-4 gears without even trying, especially the raining weather is coming in soon. I am interested in buying a pair of 17x11 rims with the 4x4.5 bolt pattern, I wanted to mount my Kuhmo 335/35-17 tires on them. I am running XXR 16x8 all around with 245/45-16 in front and 265/45-16 in the back, I can do trades if interested. Let me know, Thanks!

A little update; got the new struts in, put old drum brakes back on, R200 rearend all assembled, drained out the diarrhea looking gear oil, put some heavy 120 something weigh oil in it. She went fast, I lost some top speed with the new R200, gained alot of wheel spins. The new shocks and springs on the struts solved my wheel hop problem I had before, so it just spins and spins. I am shocked the new setup just kept spinning the slicks, the 10.5 inches wide slicks isn't enough perhaps. When I took her on the freeway, it spins the tires from 1 to 4 gears, pretty amazing feeling after driving a 4 cylinder automatic Ranger quite awhile now. I know the car is light, and they are known for wheel spins. But this car does wheel spins quarter throttle now, and my motor would just rev up until it catches the ground, I wanna try to eliminate the wheel spin much as possible. I think the wheel spin is either the spring is too stiff or the wheel is too light, I was thinking chopping the spring so the ride would be softer and lower so the wheel could have more contract on the ground. If that won't do, I might go for the 17x11 steel rims and mount it up to my 13.5 wide tires, more weight on the ground, and the increased rotating mass can be an improvement for a really light car, it use more horse power to spin the wheel instead of traction, and once its rolling, the increased weight keep spinning but contract better on the ground. I have to change the rear tires anyways since I had some officers telling my rear tires are too bald when the fender flares are off (Lol). Any opinion/ideas are welcomed.

Hey all, it's been a while. I got back working on the Z after months of saving up. Few months ago the old R180 started making bunch of whining noise after 45mph in the back, and after a last hard launch the spider gears got completely stripped, possibly had snapped the pinion gear, and my stub axle got somewhat stripped. The stub axle rotor is all loose and wiggly. She got towed home and sat for a while. It was fun while the rearend lasted. The Jaguar rearend finally came after 6 month of waiting. It appears to be missing more parts, and the ebay seller has put down alot of false information just to have me to buy the rearend. The Jag is a 3.06 gearing lsd, and would need alot of work than I imagined, and don't know if it would be worth cutting up the car, removing stock Datsun mounts and spending big bucks if the handling or acceleration didn't improve. So I decided to ditch the Jaguar rear end swap, sell the Jag rear end. I wanted to try something different, and if it worked, it give the Z cars another direction for a rearend swap. So I got me a open R200 instead, it came out of a 1977 280Z with 92k miles, and it has a 3.92, or a 3.73 gear ratio. It included with half shafts, mustache bar and a box of spare rear end parts. the guy who I bought it from is going to put a 700hp Ford Winsor motor in his little z, and swapping a lsd q45 rearend in it. He thinks it would destroy the R200, but I think it would be fine with the Lt-1 since its going to be stock for awhile. The R200 swap went straight forward, flipped the solid mount, bolts right up with the drive shaft. I got new struts from a rebuilt Z since my springs, shocks, and stub axles were torn and worn out. It didn't come with brakes, I been thinking of doing a disc brakes but that cost a bit. If anyone is selling a used set of rear disc brake set, let me know I pay good for them. I might have to take out the stub axle and put my old drum brakes on. I have some question since I still want to use my 335/35-17 tires for the back. If I would to go for a 17x11 steel rims with 4 lugs, would that be an improvement having heavy wheels so it would have more weigh to keep the tires contract the ground? I heard it it would increase sprung weight and would make the car ride rough. Smooth ride is nice, but I am more function than looks or ride quality if my car can stop and go good, I want to go for that. Since one 17x11 rim weighs 45 pound and the tires (assuming) weighs about 20 pounds. Would the increased rotating mass would be any different on a 400hp V8 2000 pound car? Another question is for the stub axles. How much tolerance can they handle? Will 4 Lug would hold the heavy rims, or should I drill the stub axle into a 5 lug to hold in the wheels. I am adding more weight on the stub axle, and bearings. Is this something I should be concerned? Does anyone has a pair of 17x11 rims, or know who sells them for a good price. I been looking and looking, it seems my only option is from GOTHALOSISM for the MRT Rockcrawler steel rims.

Well just got these Kumhos tires for $200 for the pair, I feel like this is a good deal. They are brand new, still have the fresh tire smell and looks really good. Now, I gotta fix my engine, wait for the rear end, then rims and mount these babies.

I wanted to run 12 wide rims on the front, I am just worrying about the strength of a 4 bolt over than a 5 bolt for the front. I am hoping it would handle the load on 4 bolts okay. Since the original Datsun tires can be fine for 6 inch wide stockers, but how about a 13 inch wide meats for the front? I was able to find some unused 335/35-17 Kumho tires for $200, possibility of getting them for $150. Let see how those look, Might be getting these. I decided to run all four 17x12 on my Z with all the same tire size or close to it so I could rotate tires. I would run 315/35-17 to 335/35-17 depending on deals for tires. One thing worries me about the MRT wheels is that they are not DOT approved. I called them up for vibrations, and true center. They are true as they get, and they are "built with best available materials." How many of you guys are running non Dot approved rims, how would they hold up? Is the Dot approved rims have more material thickness? I really want to go for their rims since they can do any backspacing, which I dont have to narrow the Jag rearend.