Chaparral2f

Steve, I remember the old "clutchflytes" I always thought they were kind of cool. I have a 3000 rpm 8inch converter, but the cam isn't hairy enough to need it. I've just been kicking the idea of going direct drive to the pump. After all, if I ever get this thing done, I'll have to come up with some other project. Believe me, this is still in the bench racing stage.

Thank you for the info. It's great to be able to come to this sight and actually get the information you need. CheeZ, I love this place!

If the machine shop ever gets my engine back top me, I plan to put it in my '84 zx. it should doouble the hp and give me about 400 lbs of torque which should make it run pretty well. I think that I'm going to use a th350, full manual valve body and perhaps no converter. My oldest friend says it can be done, and I tend to trust his judgement. He's been building automatics since 1959. I'm using a Jag irs and probably pinto or MII front suspension. Pictures to follow as the project takes shape.

I am putting together a 355 small block, and I want to use Kinser injection. From your post about running alky, I saw that you have experience with this type of injection. Can they can be made streetable. I am using ported L98 heads, and KB flat top pistons. The compresion ratio is @10.59/1. I don't have a cam yet, but was considering a 420-442 Lift 204-214 Duration, with a Vertex external coil Magneto, for about 350hp and 410 lb torque. But the cam choice isn't definate, so any advice will be a great help. Will I be able to get the injection to idle at any kind of reasonable rpm, and how much of a pita will it be to keep them tuned. Thanx, Joe

No one seems to have mentioned running a 700r4 with a full manual valve body. I've been giving this a bit of thought , and even though the ratios are rather wide, I may go this way.

I wanted to run Webers on my 350, but found that the manifold and carbs would cost slightly more than the entire budget for a small third world country . that's why I am planning Hilborn stack injection later this summer. If I could afford a Weber setup, I'd let them come up through the hood. If ya got it flaunt it.

this ad was in thge local Nickel. I don't know how to scan it in to post:bonk: so I just copied it! "1970 Datsun 240Z SCCA race car.500hp aluminum sbc,Mincie M21 4 speed, 57 Olds differential, 4 link Weaver dry sump. tToo much to list. needs service. $12000. Call for details.

Once again, thanks for the info . I'm polishing the rods now and will have them stress relieved and resized hopefully by the end of next week. Now all I have to do is get the cam, and finish the porting. Thanks Joe

My engine is coming together, but I have a question on con rods. My machinist says mine are "lightweight" stock rods. I brought them home to polish before they are stress relieved and resized. The rods are 5.7" with a pressed in wrist pin. They're from a chevy truck two bolt main, low compression. I am aiming for about 350 hp @5000, 420lb torque @3500. This is a pretty mild engine, but I need to know if the rods will hold up.Has anyone had any experience with them.

Thanks Mudge, I really appreciate the info. Actually, the main reason for considering titaniumn was that the price was right. (eight intake, and eight exhaust for $200) but the cost of new seats, makes the price nnot worth the trouble. that's why I keep coming here fro the straight dope! Joe

I'm porting my set of L98 heads. I know that they wimll take 2.00/1.56 valves. But I have found a good deal on a set of 2.020/1.60 Titanium valves. I just don't know if they will fit the heads without major seat work. Has anyone had any experience with this? Also, what is your opinion of titanium valves? the set I have found will cost me less than manley sever duty steel valves. that's why I wonder what you think. Joe

I am starting on the heads for my 350, and I have a question. I am using a Comp 292 Magnum cam, Pete Jackson gear drive, Victor jr and 750 Holly DP. The ignition is a French Grimes Vertex mag. I have a set of L98 alulminum heads, that are going in to be ported. Now here is my question:The current valves are 1.94/1.50. All things equeal, will increasing the valve sizes to 2.00/1.56 make enough difference in the power to justify the extra cost. (My wife has this silly idea that we need to have groceries, and pay the rent. ) i always get good information here, so any help you can give me will be appreciated. thanx, Joe

Nice car! The pics on your sight are great. Did you have any problems with clearance between the steering and exhaust?

Actually, the engine I am putting together is stolen from the "John Lingenfelter On Modifying Small-block Chevy Engines" book. (Page 155 to be exact). I wasn't worried so much about clearances as I was about compression ratios with stock pistons. AS to ging to a 280H cam, I think it would cost me about 40hp and 20lb torque. kthis may not sound like much, but I am going to be hauling around a z31 that is heavier than an early Z. I may go for a bigger crank, But my beer budget is getting down to the foam on the sice of the glass. Check out this link, there is some really outragous classifieds. www.RaceMedia.com

This is IMO the best sight on the Net! I want @400 hp/390lb-ft torque:I know this thing is gonna have a really choppy idle, but that's OK with me. Comp Cam Magnum 292 Hyd (244 duration,.501 lift,110*lobe seperation.) Pete Jackson gear drive. Victor jr intake. 750 Holley double pumper.(No webers this millinium) 1-3/4" headers. Vertex Magneto Any Sugesstions? Thanx, Joe

I have a 350 truck engine,(#14010207)with stock dished pistons, and 76cc heads (#462624) If I change the heads to corvette aluminum, (#10088113) with 58cc chambers how much my compression ratio will raise? Will the stock dish work with these heads? Thanks

Those are truly things of beauty. I'll take the downdrafts. Now, as Tony Saprano would say, "Who is it that I gotta whack?"

Since I have more time than money, I thought I'd see what thoughts you might have about what factors would have to be considered in building a log manifold to put webers on a 350? I am pretty good at fabrication, but the science isn't my strong suit.

After much soul searching, I picked up a 350 that I found in the local paper. I know nothing about it except it is an '82-'84 with two bolt mains. Didn''t hear it run, but it looked clean inside. Anyhow, it came with a TH 350. I don't think I could go wrong for a hunert an' fifty bucks:D . I should pick it up tomorrow.

Wow! Grumpy, that list sure gives you something to think about. I may be going back to the earlier planning stage. Thanx

Tee Zee,(oh most magnificent Guru) I'm from Penna, but I tell everyone that I'm from Oregon!! I never knew much about Goats, When I was young I had a great job, and was into Mopar. ('66 Charger with Street Hemi) first new car I ever owned. Oh well. Dodge has long been replaced with Wife, Kids, Grandkids, Great-grandkids, Mortgage, and a Peterbilt. Haven't had a fast car in centuries. But I do have this ratty old 300zx. Now you know what I'm doing here.

I'm not real sure, but if my faulty memory serves me right, back in the fifties the Olds J2 ran tripower, and the linkage was progressive. The one I had worked very well for the time. Of course that was when dynosaurs ruled the earth, and most of you weren't born. But like I said, My memory may be faulty.

I sure hope you get some pictures up soon, I am just starting my '84 z31. Right now I'm doing suspension. I can't start on the engine until it is licenced for the next couple of years. (Don't ask, it has to do with smog laws) Good luck finding a five speed.

I see that no one has strong opinions about the Jag suspension . I really appreciate the feedback. The Jag does have Inboard brakes, that is one of the main attractions. I like the idea of less unsprung weight, and the fact that the brakes act directly on the chasis instead of the suspension. I still haven't made up my so called mind, but you all have given me a lot more to consider. Thanx

I have found a good deal on a complete jag rear end (diff, brakes, axels, springs) from an xj6. I would like to put it under my z31 but the track on the jag is 59 inches, and the 300zx is 55 inch. Do I have to narrow the jag, or can I just handle the difference in width by flaring the rear fenders? I don't know much about suspension, so I need all the help I can get.